Disk won't spin up/Possible voltage problem

(Paul) wrote in message . com...

No editing of my quote? I didn't realize that my words were so
concise and important.

I have measured the voltage where the power connector attaches to the
circuit board. The voltages are as marked on the board, +5V and +12V.
I didn't measure the AC voltage. I thought about comparing it to the
40GB drive but didn't do it yet. I did try to spin it up with the IDE
cable disconnected.

You may want to measure voltages elsewhere on the circuit board, such
as across any electrolytic capacitors (many are surface mount --
yellow rectangular blocks colored silver at each end), but this can be
difficult on a Western Digital drive since the components are on the
inner side and require finding where the copper traces connect to the
outer side. Generally, heavier traces indicate power and ground. Be
very careful not to short traces together if you try to measure them.

I will measure the AC voltage to see how it compares to the 40GB
drive, try the freezer method and the quick 1/8th of a turn
procedure. If I don't have any luck with any of these I might
try to find a drive with the exact part number on ebay so I can
replace the circuit board.
The part number of the bad drive is WD800JB-00ETA0, manufactured
on September 16, 2003.

Be careful about the freezer method because you don't want to cool the
drive below its dew point since that can create shorts. It's safer to
cool the drive for an hour or 2 in the refrigerator.

(do_not_spam_me) wrote in message . com...
(Paul) wrote in message . com...

No editing of my quote? I didn't realize that my words were so
concise and important.

I have measured the voltage where the power connector attaches to the
circuit board. The voltages are as marked on the board, +5V and +12V.
I didn't measure the AC voltage. I thought about comparing it to the
40GB drive but didn't do it yet. I did try to spin it up with the IDE
cable disconnected.

You may want to measure voltages elsewhere on the circuit board, such
as across any electrolytic capacitors (many are surface mount --
yellow rectangular blocks colored silver at each end), but this can be
difficult on a Western Digital drive since the components are on the
inner side and require finding where the copper traces connect to the
outer side. Generally, heavier traces indicate power and ground. Be
very careful not to short traces together if you try to measure them.

I will measure the AC voltage to see how it compares to the 40GB
drive, try the freezer method and the quick 1/8th of a turn
procedure. If I don't have any luck with any of these I might
try to find a drive with the exact part number on ebay so I can
replace the circuit board.
The part number of the bad drive is WD800JB-00ETA0, manufactured
on September 16, 2003.

Be careful about the freezer method because you don't want to cool the
drive below its dew point since that can create shorts. It's safer to
cool the drive for an hour or 2 in the refrigerator.

I measured the AC voltage at the motor on the dead 80GB drive compared
to the functioning 40GB drive. I tested with IDE cables connected
then disconnected. The results were the same. The 40GB drive was
showing voltage while the 80GB drive was not. Looks like a dead
circuit board so far.

I have an advance RMA from Western Digital on the way. From what I've
heard I will need a circuit board from the exact drive model that was
manufactured in the same month. What are the chances of being able to
successfully borrow the circuit board from the replacement drive that
is being shipped now just to retrieve my data?

Are there any other potential gotchas? Can I fry anything? Is it a
pain to detatch the circuit board from the motor?

TIA,
Paul

I measured the AC voltage at the motor on the dead 80GB drive compared
to the functioning 40GB drive. I tested with IDE cables connected
then disconnected. The results were the same. The 40GB drive was
showing voltage while the 80GB drive was not. Looks like a dead
circuit board so far.

I have an advance RMA from Western Digital on the way. From what I've
heard I will need a circuit board from the exact drive model that was
manufactured in the same month. What are the chances of being able to
successfully borrow the circuit board from the replacement drive that
is being shipped now just to retrieve my data?

As soon as you pull the circuit board off the dead drive you don't have any
warranty. Expect to have to pay for the replacement drive.

"Paul" wrote in message
om...
(do_not_spam_me) wrote in message
. com...
(Paul) wrote in message
. com...

No editing of my quote? I didn't realize that my words were so
concise and important.

I have measured the voltage where the power connector attaches to the
circuit board. The voltages are as marked on the board, +5V and +12V.
I didn't measure the AC voltage. I thought about comparing it to the
40GB drive but didn't do it yet. I did try to spin it up with the IDE
cable disconnected.

You may want to measure voltages elsewhere on the circuit board, such
as across any electrolytic capacitors (many are surface mount --
yellow rectangular blocks colored silver at each end), but this can be
difficult on a Western Digital drive since the components are on the
inner side and require finding where the copper traces connect to the
outer side. Generally, heavier traces indicate power and ground. Be
very careful not to short traces together if you try to measure them.

I will measure the AC voltage to see how it compares to the 40GB
drive, try the freezer method and the quick 1/8th of a turn
procedure. If I don't have any luck with any of these I might
try to find a drive with the exact part number on ebay so I can
replace the circuit board.
The part number of the bad drive is WD800JB-00ETA0, manufactured
on September 16, 2003.

Be careful about the freezer method because you don't want to cool the
drive below its dew point since that can create shorts. It's safer to
cool the drive for an hour or 2 in the refrigerator.

I measured the AC voltage at the motor on the dead 80GB drive compared
to the functioning 40GB drive. I tested with IDE cables connected
then disconnected. The results were the same. The 40GB drive was
showing voltage while the 80GB drive was not. Looks like a dead
circuit board so far.

I have an advance RMA from Western Digital on the way. From what I've
heard I will need a circuit board from the exact drive model that was
manufactured in the same month. What are the chances of being able to
successfully borrow the circuit board from the replacement drive that
is being shipped now just to retrieve my data?

Are there any other potential gotchas? Can I fry anything? Is it a
pain to detatch the circuit board from the motor?

At least 10 years ago I had a Seagate drive (200 MB!) that would not spin up
reliably. Seagate's response was "Duh. That's really strange. We have
never heard of that before." But that was wrong. According to several
newsgroups, failing to spin up was a common problem with Seagate drives. I
bought a good drive, played with power until it spun up, copied the drive to
my new good drive, pitched the Seagate, and have never bought another from
Seagate in all these years.

(Paul) wrote in message . com...

I have an advance RMA from Western Digital on the way.
From what I've heard I will need a circuit board from
the exact drive model that was manufactured in the
same month. What are the chances of being able to
successfully borrow the circuit board from the
replacement drive that is being shipped now just to
retrieve my data?

Are there any other potential gotchas? Can I fry anything?
Is it a pain to detatch the circuit board from the motor?

The drive doesn't have to be manufactured in the same month but just
have the same exact full part number, including the suffix after the
main part.

I doubt you'll fry anything if you're reasonably careful and take the
usual precautions against ham-fistedness (don't force anything) and
static. To prevent static, work in short sleeves, barefoot, and cover
your entire work surface in a square yard of pink anti-static foam
sheet or anti-static bubble wrap, usually also pink. You can use
aluminum foil, but be sure it is NOT connected to earth ground (use a
plastic or wooden table, not a metal one), and never use foil when
working on motherboards or anything else containing a battery. You
want a square yard so that your elbows and forearms will usually be in
contact with the anti-static surface. Circuit boards in modern drives
are easy to replace because they're designed to simply slip into place
and don't have any ribbon connectors with delicate clamps that are
easy to break. On WD circuit boards there are some gold fingers near
the motor, and there are 1 or 2 rows of very narrow contacts near the
opposite side of the board. If the contacts on the new board don't
line up in the same places, don't use the board. Do tighten all the
screws (Torx -- get a Torx driver and don't try to use an ordinary
screwdriver) before applying power because they're needed to secure
the connectors and grounds.