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#1
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
I'm building a knife sharpener with a 25-deg angle out of ceramic
hollow rods. Ceramic stock: 4-1/2" long & 3/8" diameter. Right Angle Triangle: the two sides at 90-deg, one of which will be, of course, the base. Figure roughly around a 10" plug-in value for an extended "sharpening edge," which will also be the same as the 3rd side of the triangle. (I'll rig the ceramic rods to that 10" via the hollow center, with a steel rod, or a wooden frame that clamps down. Figure that out later.) Anyway, I just need the math. If the opposite, 10" side to the right triangle forms a 25-deg. angle, (to the two other, 90-degree sides), sic. -- a 25-deg. angle, that is, to the straight-edge of a knife being sharpened perpendicularly to the base of the triangle -- give me the measurements for the two remaining triangular lengths to an approximate 10" third side I've proposed. Avoid decimal fractions of an inch (I've a precision steel ruler that'll go up to 64th or 128ths. Actually, I'll be doing it twice with two ceramic rods and bringing them together for sharpening both sides of my cutlery simultaneously.) Hell the whole damn thing could be made adjustable, compact and secure, for a 15- to 35-degree leeway varying from finer knives to hatchets and cleavers. Where's all the whizbang, latenite TeeVee copyright holders when you've got a perfectly good handle on a copyright scheme and need them? |
#2
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
At Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:18:31 -0500, Flasherly rearranged some electrons to
write: I'm building a knife sharpener with a 25-deg angle out of ceramic hollow rods. Ceramic stock: 4-1/2" long & 3/8" diameter. Right Angle Triangle: the two sides at 90-deg, one of which will be, of course, the base. Figure roughly around a 10" plug-in value for an extended "sharpening edge," which will also be the same as the 3rd side of the triangle. (I'll rig the ceramic rods to that 10" via the hollow center, with a steel rod, or a wooden frame that clamps down. Figure that out later.) Anyway, I just need the math. If the opposite, 10" side to the right triangle forms a 25-deg. angle, (to the two other, 90-degree sides), sic. -- a 25-deg. angle, that is, to the straight-edge of a knife being sharpened perpendicularly to the base of the triangle -- give me the measurements for the two remaining triangular lengths to an approximate 10" third side I've proposed. Avoid decimal fractions of an inch (I've a precision steel ruler that'll go up to 64th or 128ths. Actually, I'll be doing it twice with two ceramic rods and bringing them together for sharpening both sides of my cutlery simultaneously.) Hell the whole damn thing could be made adjustable, compact and secure, for a 15- to 35-degree leeway varying from finer knives to hatchets and cleavers. Where's all the whizbang, latenite TeeVee copyright holders when you've got a perfectly good handle on a copyright scheme and need them? 1) All three angles have to add up to 180 degrees 2) long side = sqrt (x*x + y*y) if x and y are the other two sides |
#3
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
"Flasherly" wrote in message ... I'm building a knife sharpener with a 25-deg angle out of ceramic hollow rods. Ceramic stock: 4-1/2" long & 3/8" diameter. Right Angle Triangle: the two sides at 90-deg, one of which will be, of course, the base. Figure roughly around a 10" plug-in value for an extended "sharpening edge," which will also be the same as the 3rd side of the triangle. (I'll rig the ceramic rods to that 10" via the hollow center, with a steel rod, or a wooden frame that clamps down. Figure that out later.) Anyway, I just need the math. If the opposite, 10" side to the right triangle forms a 25-deg. angle, (to the two other, 90-degree sides), sic. -- a 25-deg. angle, that is, to the straight-edge of a knife being sharpened perpendicularly to the base of the triangle -- give me the measurements for the two remaining triangular lengths to an approximate 10" third side I've proposed. Avoid decimal fractions of an inch (I've a precision steel ruler that'll go up to 64th or 128ths. Actually, I'll be doing it twice with two ceramic rods and bringing them together for sharpening both sides of my cutlery simultaneously.) Hell the whole damn thing could be made adjustable, compact and secure, for a 15- to 35-degree leeway varying from finer knives to hatchets and cleavers. Where's all the whizbang, latenite TeeVee copyright holders when you've got a perfectly good handle on a copyright scheme and need them? I was looking for this gadget I had at work that gave the formulae for figuring out the sides and angles, but alas, it is lost :-( But then, I found this site: http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html Just plug in the values you know, and it will show you the rest. Even simpler than my formula wheel :-) -- SC Tom |
#4
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
On Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:18:31 -0500, Flasherly
wrote: Thanks you guys - SC Tom and David for the formula and site link. Saved and will be looking at both. Had hoped that information would be fresher to someone than what I offhand remember about a compass, straight edge, circles and angles. |
#5
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
"Flasherly" wrote in message ... On Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:18:31 -0500, Flasherly wrote: Thanks you guys - SC Tom and David for the formula and site link. Saved and will be looking at both. Had hoped that information would be fresher to someone than what I offhand remember about a compass, straight edge, circles and angles. When you build it, take some pix of it and post them on-line. I'm curious to see it now :-) -- SC Tom |
#6
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
On Fri, 15 Nov 2013 13:27:15 -0500, "SC Tom" wrote:
When you build it, take some pix of it and post them on-line. I'm curious to see it now :-) -- It's basically for average cabbage-headed functionality (I like to cook) - here's stock (the rods, mine are hollow or roughly a sturdy nail could be inserted.) ... http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/cera...ning-rods.html Simplest - would be a block of wood from a 2x4" - with the knife coming straight down to a 22-deg. angle (that's fine knifes, cutlery is usually 25-deg.)... knife edge | | to rods (22-deg measured for knife blade perpendicular to wood at and between the angled ceramic rod) __\__/__ ----------- rods inserted into wood What I'll be doing is more like an.. --X-- -/-\- (extending the X, for the rods, downward.) moving both ceramic rods now together (touching at curved tangents, as offset by their diameter) and somewhat past, forming that X for bringing the knife edge through the top-V of the X, and hitting both side edge at 25-degrees. That's precisely what none of the commercial products offer, is being able to slide the rods around, up and down;- once a groove is worn into the rods at only one place it's garbage, worn out and no more good. I guess that's what they like: keeps customers coming, in a round about way, ass-backwardly back. I've got a drill press and probably could rig it up for 25-deg holes in wood. Have to see if I can keep the slop out (maybe jury-rig something in metal or clamps on the wood...not sure), otherwise I'll be ruining knifes with screw-ball angles. Somebody, really, with half an ounce more brain than me could manufacture a patent for variable angles for both diamond and ceramic stock;- diamond to bring down various knifes to varied rough angles and ceramic, tuned for the same angle, for polishing out a keen edge finish;- put a leather finish on the base for a product finish and advertise it for stropping out the likes of a folded-steel Damascus gelding knife. A swifty for some future entrepreneur to do all that while resisting putting a $200 price tag on $5's materials. |
#7
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
"Flasherly" wrote in message ... On Fri, 15 Nov 2013 13:27:15 -0500, "SC Tom" wrote: When you build it, take some pix of it and post them on-line. I'm curious to see it now :-) -- It's basically for average cabbage-headed functionality (I like to cook) - here's stock (the rods, mine are hollow or roughly a sturdy nail could be inserted.) ... http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/cera...ning-rods.html Simplest - would be a block of wood from a 2x4" - with the knife coming straight down to a 22-deg. angle (that's fine knifes, cutlery is usually 25-deg.)... knife edge | | to rods (22-deg measured for knife blade perpendicular to wood at and between the angled ceramic rod) __\__/__ ----------- rods inserted into wood What I'll be doing is more like an.. --X-- -/-\- (extending the X, for the rods, downward.) moving both ceramic rods now together (touching at curved tangents, as offset by their diameter) and somewhat past, forming that X for bringing the knife edge through the top-V of the X, and hitting both side edge at 25-degrees. That's precisely what none of the commercial products offer, is being able to slide the rods around, up and down;- once a groove is worn into the rods at only one place it's garbage, worn out and no more good. I guess that's what they like: keeps customers coming, in a round about way, ass-backwardly back. I've got a drill press and probably could rig it up for 25-deg holes in wood. Have to see if I can keep the slop out (maybe jury-rig something in metal or clamps on the wood...not sure), otherwise I'll be ruining knifes with screw-ball angles. Somebody, really, with half an ounce more brain than me could manufacture a patent for variable angles for both diamond and ceramic stock;- diamond to bring down various knifes to varied rough angles and ceramic, tuned for the same angle, for polishing out a keen edge finish;- put a leather finish on the base for a product finish and advertise it for stropping out the likes of a folded-steel Damascus gelding knife. A swifty for some future entrepreneur to do all that while resisting putting a $200 price tag on $5's materials. So you're looking to do something similar to this: http://www.knifehog.com/p-2396-lansky-four-rod-turn-box-lcd5d.aspx but with the rods crossed like this one? http://www.knifehog.com/p-2389-lansky-four-rod-gourmet-knife-sharpener-lcsgm4.aspx I have one that's probably 25-30 years old that's similar to these. The base is a 12x1" hardwood dowel with a 5/8" flat on the bottom to keep it from rolling, and the holes for the (2) 9" rods. It's been used so much that you can feel where the rod diameter is smaller above the ends where the rods insert into the base. Works great for me; I use it for almost all of my knives from kitchen to pocket :-) -- SC Tom |
#8
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Measure out this geometry right-angle for me
On Sat, 16 Nov 2013 07:53:15 -0500, "SC Tom" wrote:
So you're looking to do something similar to this: http://www.knifehog.com/p-2396-lansky-four-rod-turn-box-lcd5d.aspx but with the rods crossed like this one? http://www.knifehog.com/p-2389-lansky-four-rod-gourmet-knife-sharpener-lcsgm4.aspx I have one that's probably 25-30 years old that's similar to these. The base is a 12x1" hardwood dowel with a 5/8" flat on the bottom to keep it from rolling, and the holes for the (2) 9" rods. It's been used so much that you can feel where the rod diameter is smaller above the ends where the rods insert into the base. Works great for me; I use it for almost all of my knives from kitchen to pocket :-) -- SC Tom http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rpening+system About anything above is a tier up from below. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rpening+system Which is what I want in principle -- a mixture of the two, or as roughly in theory applied to the top link, the model you have -- except for bigger and moveable rods that actually intersect to form two 25-degree angles, the " X ", for sharpening both sides of the knife simultaneously. Just means bringing up that " X " higher to account 4-1/2" rods, I have. Say, a 4" high piece of wood drilled for the holes at 25-degrees, so the rods intersect to form an X. Two clamp-screws going into the wood below, to secure each ceramic rod -- well, 1) loosen the clamps and move up/down the rods as grooves of wear form from usage, then 2) remove and reverse a worn rod for the inserted portion, previously clamped and in the wood, to come out and be on top for sharpening usage. Hadn't heard or seen of the conical effect you have from continued wear, but I'd been given one similar made, exactly like yours. The rods were glued and I guess I never stuck with it long enough to get past a rough and imprecise angled-feel and into any better swing for use. Unlike X-d rods -- for a few sharpening passes within, with which I can bring both side to the knife edges right back into near razor sharpness. Say in the case of slicing homemade bread, dicing potatoes, garlic bulbs or jalapeƱos, it occurs a) fast from a block of many repetitively-used knifes, apt to dull within the cooking prep and interrupt the flow of cooking several items within heat of prep times, and thus facilitating b) ease of quickly sharpening as safety (don't want spurious sharpening habits to intrude into a rhythm of cooking, or to turn into a dice off one of mine ol' fingers). |
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