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#1
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Next game box
My last system is working perfectly. It's a few
years old, but really fast and quiet. Runs cool. Dual boots XP Pro - Win7 / 64 Intel Core2 Duo .. early so not a failed quad Gigabyte mobo .. solid state caps Truepower 750 watts Nvidia gtx 275 4 gigs ram 2 hard drives 500 gig each .. hitachi sata dvd Antec 900 case Asus lcd 24 inch wide .. nice No problem in any games .. Crysis is fast. Reason I'm starting a new box is ?? Damned if I know. I'm trying to figure out what is new and what I would like to try to optimize next. I don't really see anything in a new technology at all. I'm playing with wireless, but my laptop does that without a hitch. I can make free phone calls all over the world ( gmail ), but again the laptop is doing it. Any ideas ? johns |
#2
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Next game box
johns johns321 moscow.com wrote:
My last system is working perfectly. It's a few years old, but really fast and quiet. Runs cool. Dual boots XP Pro - Win7 / 64 Intel Core2 Duo .. early so not a failed quad Gigabyte mobo .. solid state caps Truepower 750 watts Nvidia gtx 275 4 gigs ram 2 hard drives 500 gig each .. hitachi sata dvd Antec 900 case Asus lcd 24 inch wide .. nice No problem in any games .. Crysis is fast. Reason I'm starting a new box is ?? Damned if I know. I'm trying to figure out what is new and what I would like to try to optimize next. I don't really see anything in a new technology at all. I'm playing with wireless, but my laptop does that without a hitch. I can make free phone calls all over the world ( gmail ), but again the laptop is doing it. Any ideas ? Hey. At the moment, I am experimenting with a mobile hotspot and 3 Mbps DSL. The wireless is actually faster, but they won't tolerate as much usage. That is where I'm headed, if I can afford it, wireless for speed plus low-end DSL for the heavy lifting. If you have some spare time, you could learn how to backup your Windows drive (assuming you don't already, but I guess you do). It's a whole new world of personal computing. By the way... Most systems use much less power than you might think. The popular conception of needing a high wattage power supply is probably mostly marketing hype. I don't understand why so-called technically inclined users/reviewers don't understand that, but oh well. Good luck and have fun. -- johns |
#3
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On Oct 20, 8:11 pm, johns wrote:
My last system is working perfectly. It's a few years old, but really fast and quiet. Runs cool. Dual boots XP Pro - Win7 / 64 Intel Core2 Duo .. early so not a failed quad Gigabyte mobo .. solid state caps Truepower 750 watts Nvidia gtx 275 4 gigs ram 2 hard drives 500 gig each .. hitachi sata dvd Antec 900 case Asus lcd 24 inch wide .. nice No problem in any games .. Crysis is fast. Reason I'm starting a new box is ?? Damned if I know. I'm trying to figure out what is new and what I would like to try to optimize next. I don't really see anything in a new technology at all. I'm playing with wireless, but my laptop does that without a hitch. I can make free phone calls all over the world ( gmail ), but again the laptop is doing it. Any ideas ? johns Newegg's this morning is selling a foxcon 11x11x3" Intel ATOM dual core 1.8Ghz. Case/CPU/150W PS. $75 (takes a checkout code). You put in the HD & DDR2 533/800. I can see gluing a 400W PS unit on the outside with a tube of silicon. Red glue of course. |
#4
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Next game box
Amazon tag-along companies are dumping products all over
the place. They pick up a few pretty good items, and then cut the prices to the dirt to build their business. I just got an Antec 902 case for $85, and an Antec Truepower 750 B for $79 .. included shipping. Staples is doing the same thing. They bring in a good product, and then dump it if it doesn't sell right away. I got a bunch of 120 mm cooling fans .. with speed switching for half price. I'm looking at the ASUS mobos, but NewEgg reports are tearing them up bigtime. They say the ASUS mobos go dead in 2 - 3 weeks brand new. I'll go Gigabyte again as usual .. probably the bundle from Mwave. johns |
#5
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Next game box
By the way... Most systems use much less power than you might
think. The popular conception of needing a high wattage power supply is probably mostly marketing hype. I don't understand why so-called technically inclined users/reviewers don't understand that, but oh well. I always understood the extra power acts like a smoothing filter. The supply only puts out what the system calls for, so if it only needs 300 watts, I have a 450 watt overhead and heavy components that don't overheat from the surges. Also, the new low power components .. power down .. thus saving energy on the average. They still need to handle the surges and use high power for short periods .. so the potential needs to be there ... I think !!!! I just got an Antec 902 case .. a HUGE improvement over the early 900s. I can run all of the ps-wires behind the mobo for an extremely clean build. That's a good start. And I'm going to 8 gig ram for Win7 / 64 .. finally see Gothic 3 not stutter :-) Fat chance, but what the heck. johns |
#6
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johns johns321 moscow.com wrote:
By the way... Most systems use much less power than you might think. The popular conception of needing a high wattage power supply is probably mostly marketing hype. I don't understand why so-called technically inclined users/reviewers don't understand that, but oh well. I always understood the extra power acts like a smoothing filter. I use a voltage regulator. It includes surge suppression and is almost comparable in price to a good surge suppressor. Unlike an uninterruptible power supply, there is no battery to mess with. The regulator protects against momentary voltage sags/overages. The vast majority of users could get by with that instead of messing with a UPS. Running my system on a battery is cool, but I have never been in a situation when it was necessary. But that was man-made and it didn't destroy anything. Early editions of Windows trained me well, and blackouts are rare. The supply only puts out what the system calls for, so if it only needs 300 watts, I have a 450 watt overhead and heavy components that don't overheat from the surges. Also, the new low power components .. power down .. thus saving energy on the average. They still need to handle the surges and use high power for short periods .. so the potential needs to be there ... I think !!!! If you're going to spend $100 on a power supply, spend a measly $20 for a "Kill A Watt" (or similar) power meter. You will be surprised at how little power your system actually uses, even at the wall. Power supply sales appears to be a con game. You can use the meter to measure other stuff around the house too. Like to see how much devices use when they are turned off. After that, you might want to pass it on to somebody else. (That's generic advice, don't take it personally.) -- I just got an Antec 902 case .. a HUGE improvement over the early 900s. I can run all of the ps-wires behind the mobo for an extremely clean build. That's a good start. And I'm going to 8 gig ram for Win7 / 64 .. finally see Gothic 3 not stutter :-) Fat chance, but what the heck. johns |
#7
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On Oct 31, 10:17 pm, johns wrote:
I'm looking at the ASUS mobos, but NewEgg reports are tearing them up bigtime. They say the ASUS mobos go dead in 2 - 3 weeks brand new. I'll go Gigabyte again as usual .. probably the bundle from Mwave. I go less on the reviews, although some are informative, than where people are leaning into various models -- categorically, most popular being most reviewed, selectively, for heavier volumes on sales. Easy to figure from Newegg, much less so with Amazon, which can be a cumbersome process. I'd as soon go to Amazon with the decision already made for pulling up the product. Worth a quick look, anyway. Scored $10 off Newegg's price for an Asus Xonar soundboard a couple weeks ago on Amazon. Peachy keen performance, so the $7 fiber optic cable I needed was basically free on that deal. I've been settling for the lower end PS units - Antec's Earth Green or something, low-end being 450-550ish watts in today's bigger-draw systems. Same with their cases, either a 300 series or clone thereof, anywhere from $19- $30 possibly rebated. That's around $100, tops $150, on a system build (before graphics or storage) for an entry-level or used CPU. I don't mind Gigabyte, Asus, MSI . . .hell, might even be game for a Foxcon or Biostar. This crap* was deader than hell, though, when I put it together. Cost me almost $10 shipping (to me, they paid back) for a "fling" with Newegg crap it seems they'd have tested first before selling it for "certified" redux. When I as much as said that to the guy -- hey, it's crap -- he asked - 'How's this. . .You want to keep it for $25, then?" "Nope,' I replied. Still had a bad taste in my mouth after a few hours of hair-pulling, using parts variously from three computers to re-verify re-certified crap. Cheap thrills, I guess, I guess for junkies w/ a builder jones. Like I've said before, though Newegg likes to play those games, if it were somebody else, rather, I just wouldn't play with their nasty stuff -- they'd try and stick me with for no refund, outrageous restocking fees, &etc. Bought some Geeks.com stuff, too. . .which might borderline edgy for bottom- feeder types, in my humble estimation. Luckily it came, a P4-E 3Ghz 800fsb, as advertised and in working order for $7. Yeppers, peachy nift-o keen when winning me some and not losing. *Estimated delivery 10/03/2011 Recertified: MSI 848P Neo2-V LGA 775 Intel 848P ATX Intel Motherboard Item #: N82E16813130607 Limited Replacement Only Return Policy $24.99 Recertified: Intel Pentium 4 650 Prescott 3.4GHz LGA 775 84W Single-Core Desktop Processor P4650-R Item #: N82E16819116404 $24.99 Standard Return Policy |
#8
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Next game box
On 01 Nov 2011 03:16:45 GMT, John Doe wrote:
I use a voltage regulator. It includes surge suppression and is almost comparable in price to a good surge suppressor. Unlike an uninterruptible power supply, there is no battery to mess with. The regulator protects against momentary voltage sags/overages. The vast majority of users could get by with that instead of messing with a UPS. Running my system on a battery is cool, but I have never been in a situation when it was necessary. But that was man-made and it didn't destroy anything. Early editions of Windows trained me well, and blackouts are rare. How long does the power tend to go out where you are? Here I'm used to very short outages--blink the lights, reboot the PC type. $20 for a "Kill A Watt" (or similar) power meter. You will be surprised at how little power your system actually uses, even at the wall. Power supply sales appears to be a con game. You can use the meter to measure other stuff around the house too. Like to see how much devices use when they are turned off. After that, you might want to pass it on to somebody else. (That's generic advice, don't take it personally.) Pass it on?? I use ours every so often. |
#9
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Next game box
Loren Pechtel lorenpechtel hotmail.com wrote:
John Doe jdoe usenetlove.invalid wrote: I use a voltage regulator. It includes surge suppression and is almost comparable in price to a good surge suppressor. Unlike an uninterruptible power supply, there is no battery to mess with. The regulator protects against momentary voltage sags/overages. The vast majority of users could get by with that instead of messing with a UPS. Running my system on a battery is cool, but I have never been in a situation when it was necessary. But that was man-made and it didn't destroy anything. Early editions of Windows trained me well, and blackouts are rare. How long does the power tend to go out where you are? Here I'm used to very short outages--blink the lights, reboot the PC type. That is the type of outage that my voltage regulator has handled perfectly. The lights can blink and the speaker system can pop but the computer shows no sign of being effected. Back then, I was suffering from spontaneous reboots. I do not recall how important the effort to eliminate spontaneous rebooting was when I bought the voltage regulator, but it did permanently eliminate those reboots. Since then, my house electricity has been overhauled, but the regulator still does its clicky stuff when a nearby room air conditioner turns on. My PC power supply would probably handle that very short voltage drop, but at least I know what the electrical system is doing. I bought a 1200 VA (or whatever you would call it) regulator, that might be overkill, but it might include larger capacitors that are more useful for spanning very short outages. Capacitors probably do that work. Would be nice to see some marketing hype about the capacitors, but I didn't see it. Your mileage may vary. User experiences would be good reading. I suppose there is more such discussion in reviews on the web. I seem to recall praise, but maybe not much about the details. I think the corrected voltage drop time will be long enough to make your PC stay off if the voltage drop is long enough to remove power from your PC through the regulator. In other words... I suspect that your PC cannot spontaneously reboot due to power fluctuations because the regulator guarantees that the outage will be long enough to keep your PC off if your PC is affected. That might not be law, but it has worked that way here. |
#10
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Next game box
On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 19:26:02 -0700 (PDT), johns
wrote: By the way... Most systems use much less power than you might think. The popular conception of needing a high wattage power supply is probably mostly marketing hype. I don't understand why so-called technically inclined users/reviewers don't understand that, but oh well. I always understood the extra power acts like a smoothing filter. Any decent PSU will do this. You don't need to overspec it too much. A good quality PSU is worth the price. Some cheap PSUs are not actually capable of providing their stated power at all voltages. The supply only puts out what the system calls for, so if it only needs 300 watts, I have a 450 watt overhead and heavy components that don't overheat from the surges. "The energy efficiency of power supplies drops significantly at low loads. Efficiency generally peaks at about 50–75% load." -- (\__/) M. (='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and (")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking some articles posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by everyone you will need use a different method of posting. |
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