If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX.
When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
wrote:
I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. There's a whole checklist to go through, before you get to cannabalise it. Is the fan spinning on the power supply ? Is the CPU cool fan spinning, and the cooler still securely fastened to the socket tabs ? Sometimes a tab busts off and the heatsink isn't making good contact. There have been motherboards in the past, where a flat CMOS battery (CR2032) freezes things up, even when it should not. The +5VSB from the power supply, takes the place of the battery, when the power supply is running, which is why this should not happen. Yet, some people get operation, when a new battery is installed. Be careful not to bust off the contact on the battery socket. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...name=c00680695 * Manufacturer: Asus * Motherboard Name: A8N-LA * HP/Compaq motherboard name: Nagami2L-GL8 * Chipset: GeForce 6150 LE, S939 http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...name=c00683218 It's hard to say if I got the right motherboard. It appears to be an Asus, perhaps from around the beginning of the capacitor plague. The board has ordinary electrolytic caps, so you'd check for leaking or bulging caps. The board would likely have given some warning signs, such as crashes while you were using the computer. It wouldn't likely operate all fine and good, and just drop dead. There would be little hints before that, anomalies that would serve as a warning. Check that the two power cables are secure. Very occasionally, there is flaky contact between ATX12V and socket, or between main power cable and motherboard socket. Make sure both cables are secure and the latches hold the cables there. You can pull the cable, and visually examine the shiny pins for a white, less shiny appearance, which means the pins overheated and the surface metal is damaged. It might not be getting power. (Check with a multimeter, that the main power cable is delivering power to the motherboard. The probe on the multimeter, can slide down into the plastic shell on the main power connector, and touch the metal pin and take a sample reading.) I connect the ground of my multimeter, with an alligator clip, to a screw on the back of the computer, like an I/O connector screw. That way, I'm only waving one red probe around when taking voltage samples with my digital multimeter inside. It might be an onboard regulator which is failed. Checking for leaking caps, burned MOSFETS (caused by a MOSFET failure), or burned out toroids (excessive current flow when MOSFET blows), might hint at damage to the VCore circuit. ******* With the preliminaries out of the way, turn off all power to the computer and unplug. Remove the RAM sticks and place in an antistatic bag. Use a wrist strap connected between computer chassis and you, to reduce the risk of damaging the RAM. When the PC is powered up and you make the next start attempt, the piezo buzzer thing on the motherboard should beep a RAM error. Because no RAM is installed. Such a test is used to prove the processor can read BIOS code, the processor finds no RAM, the processor programs the beeper to make the resultant sound. If you hear beeps, that is a good sign, because it means a lot of the motherboard is working. Any test that generates a beep code would be a good test to use. On one of my older motherboards, after around two minutes with no keyboard plugged in, it would beep for that. Keep an eye on the IDE LED, which flashes for each disk operation, If no disk access is happening, then that's another sign the BIOS code is not running, as the POST sequence runs. Some NVidia chipsets have excessively sensitive PCI Express slots, and you can blow them out when not using your wrist strap to reduce ESD risk. Has the video card been changed lately ? Is the heatsink still secured to the NVidia Northbridge ? I see my non-favorite stainless steel mount points, held in place with the wrong solder. Sometimes that spring wire unclips from the motherboard, and the heatsink is no longer secured to the motherboard. The Northbridge could be between 5W and 10W, and having some cooling on it is important. With no heatsink, it might cook and get ruined. Some Dells, they have an electrical check for a missing Northbridge spring clip. They run current flow through the spring clip - if the clip falls off, the circuit is broken and the computer will no longer power on. It's a clever way to protect the Northbridge from cooking because of a spring wire failure. Too bad they couldn't have found a better way to fit the spring in the first place. They could have used a tin-lead coated motherboard fastener, so the soldering would be a bit more secure. You really shouldn't tug on a solder joint in the first place, as tin-lead solder is not a structural material. I wouldn't build a house out of tin-lead solder joints. ******* So your first real diagnostic test, is a "beep" test. If you get no beep, it could be a power issue. In which case, I'd use the multimeter set to 20V DC full scale, to check the main power cable levels. You can get a pinout for the 24 pin connector, on page 37 here. Also, check that a standard power supply is in use, as the wire colors should match the colors listed in the table. You *can* make measurements on the main cable, while the plug is in place. The probe barely fits next to where the wire goes into each "bay" in the plastic connector. As long as you seek a ground connection away from the action, the possibility of shorting something with just the red probe, is limited. Multimeters are available from Harbor Freight for around $20 or so. http://www.formfactors.org/developer...public_br2.pdf HTH, Paul |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
On Tue, 8 Jul 2014, B00ze wrote:
On 2014-07-07 10:03, wrote: I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. Obvious question, could it be the monitor that's dead? Sounds like it could be... Have you tried with another? I'd certainly be checking that. I brought home an Acer 19" LCD monitor a few years ago, and it nominally worked, but would reset if left on, and I'd lose the video signal, the Acer logo would be on screen. I seem to recall having some problems just using it with some stray computer, booting up caused problems. I did fix that monitor, a few electrolytics in the power supply, but since it sort of worked, I initially thought it would work all the way. Michael\ |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
wrote in message ... I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. No "beeps" from the PC speaker during POST? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
On Thu, 10 Jul 2014, Stewart wrote:
wrote in message ... I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. No "beeps" from the PC speaker during POST? Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Michael |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
Michael Black wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jul 2014, Stewart wrote: wrote in message ... I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. No "beeps" from the PC speaker during POST? Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Michael It's true there are boutique computer cases that don't come with a speaker. But you can add one later. A retail motherboard should have SPKR pins to drive it. I would not buy a case without a speaker. As the beep test has some value to me. Paul |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black
wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
No Video from PC
On Monday, July 7, 2014 at 11:40:32 AM UTC-4, Paul wrote:
wrote: I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. There's a whole checklist to go through, before you get to cannabalise it. Is the fan spinning on the power supply ? Is the CPU cool fan spinning, and the cooler still securely fastened to the socket tabs ? Sometimes a tab busts off and the heatsink isn't making good contact. There have been motherboards in the past, where a flat CMOS battery (CR2032) freezes things up, even when it should not. The +5VSB from the power supply, takes the place of the battery, when the power supply is running, which is why this should not happen. Yet, some people get operation, when a new battery is installed. Be careful not to bust off the contact on the battery socket. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...name=c00680695 * Manufacturer: Asus * Motherboard Name: A8N-LA * HP/Compaq motherboard name: Nagami2L-GL8 * Chipset: GeForce 6150 LE, S939 http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...name=c00683218 It's hard to say if I got the right motherboard. It appears to be an Asus, perhaps from around the beginning of the capacitor plague. The board has ordinary electrolytic caps, so you'd check for leaking or bulging caps. The board would likely have given some warning signs, such as crashes while you were using the computer. It wouldn't likely operate all fine and good, and just drop dead. There would be little hints before that, anomalies that would serve as a warning. Check that the two power cables are secure. Very occasionally, there is flaky contact between ATX12V and socket, or between main power cable and motherboard socket. Make sure both cables are secure and the latches hold the cables there. You can pull the cable, and visually examine the shiny pins for a white, less shiny appearance, which means the pins overheated and the surface metal is damaged. It might not be getting power. (Check with a multimeter, that the main power cable is delivering power to the motherboard. The probe on the multimeter, can slide down into the plastic shell on the main power connector, and touch the metal pin and take a sample reading.) I connect the ground of my multimeter, with an alligator clip, to a screw on the back of the computer, like an I/O connector screw. That way, I'm only waving one red probe around when taking voltage samples with my digital multimeter inside. It might be an onboard regulator which is failed. Checking for leaking caps, burned MOSFETS (caused by a MOSFET failure), or burned out toroids (excessive current flow when MOSFET blows), might hint at damage to the VCore circuit. ******* With the preliminaries out of the way, turn off all power to the computer and unplug. Remove the RAM sticks and place in an antistatic bag. Use a wrist strap connected between computer chassis and you, to reduce the risk of damaging the RAM. When the PC is powered up and you make the next start attempt, the piezo buzzer thing on the motherboard should beep a RAM error. Because no RAM is installed. Such a test is used to prove the processor can read BIOS code, the processor finds no RAM, the processor programs the beeper to make the resultant sound. If you hear beeps, that is a good sign, because it means a lot of the motherboard is working. Any test that generates a beep code would be a good test to use. On one of my older motherboards, after around two minutes with no keyboard plugged in, it would beep for that. Keep an eye on the IDE LED, which flashes for each disk operation, If no disk access is happening, then that's another sign the BIOS code is not running, as the POST sequence runs. Some NVidia chipsets have excessively sensitive PCI Express slots, and you can blow them out when not using your wrist strap to reduce ESD risk. Has the video card been changed lately ? Is the heatsink still secured to the NVidia Northbridge ? I see my non-favorite stainless steel mount points, held in place with the wrong solder. Sometimes that spring wire unclips from the motherboard, and the heatsink is no longer secured to the motherboard. The Northbridge could be between 5W and 10W, and having some cooling on it is important. With no heatsink, it might cook and get ruined. Some Dells, they have an electrical check for a missing Northbridge spring clip. They run current flow through the spring clip - if the clip falls off, the circuit is broken and the computer will no longer power on. It's a clever way to protect the Northbridge from cooking because of a spring wire failure. Too bad they couldn't have found a better way to fit the spring in the first place. They could have used a tin-lead coated motherboard fastener, so the soldering would be a bit more secure. You really shouldn't tug on a solder joint in the first place, as tin-lead solder is not a structural material. I wouldn't build a house out of tin-lead solder joints. ******* So your first real diagnostic test, is a "beep" test. If you get no beep, it could be a power issue. In which case, I'd use the multimeter set to 20V DC full scale, to check the main power cable levels. You can get a pinout for the 24 pin connector, on page 37 here. Also, check that a standard power supply is in use, as the wire colors should match the colors listed in the table. You *can* make measurements on the main cable, while the plug is in place. The probe barely fits next to where the wire goes into each "bay" in the plastic connector. As long as you seek a ground connection away from the action, the possibility of shorting something with just the red probe, is limited. Multimeters are available from Harbor Freight for around $20 or so. http://www.formfactors.org/developer...public_br2.pdf HTH, Paul Update: The Power supply and CPU fans spin and the heat sinks are secure. I have tried two different working monitors and tapping the power button does not result in the PC turning off. (I have to leave my finger on the button). The monitor light does not even come on anymore when I power on. The motherboard is an ASUS A8N-LA. And the PC has a single SATA disk. Neither the integrated video or the addition of a video card correct the problem, and installing a new CMOS battery as well as a new power supply has changed nothing. (There is no case speaker). The power cables are secure and there are no bulging or leaking caps on the motherboard and the original owner only said that the PC was sluggish, so I expected it to work. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Do laptop gaming video chipsets have shared video memory or dedicated? | Doug | Ati Videocards | 2 | July 8th 05 09:28 PM |
eVGA Personal Cinema NO VIDEO in LIVE TV, NO COMP VIDEO (just sound) | Jay | Nvidia Videocards | 7 | January 7th 05 07:26 PM |
Memory Upgrade results in No Video; Cleared CMOS..still not booting & no video | mary | Compaq Computers | 5 | April 8th 04 08:35 PM |
Video capture on V9560 Video Suite screwed up (B&W S-Video showingup on Composite source) | John Sutter | Nvidia Videocards | 0 | February 20th 04 08:20 PM |
"S-Video-In": MSI Nvidia MX440 Video-In & RivaTV module loading problem | Robert Hancock | Nvidia Videocards | 0 | August 8th 03 04:14 AM |