D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?

'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings
| were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in
| the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what
| to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and
| one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i
| change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh
| to 33.3 like you were saying earlier?
_____

Make sure you have the PCI bus speed locked to 33 MHz.
As for the long string of numbers for the memory timings; if you overclock
the memory (as you may do when raising the FrontSide Bus speed to overclock)
the memory timings should be left at default, and may even need to be
increased (relaxed, higher numbers) to keep the system stable. Increasing
the memory timings settings will lower the performance of the memory, but
the increase in clock speed will improve memory performance more than the
increased memory timings will decrease performance.

Remember, change only one thing at a time, and keep records. Start off with
memory timings at default. Only AFTER you get the highest possible
overclock that is stable default memory timings should you make changes in
memory timing. Larger numbers for memory timing should increase the highest
clock speed at which the memory will operate. But you may not need to use
anything but the default timing. And don't even THINK about changing the
memory timing settings until after a few months of operation.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
...
| Wow, these quote are getting pretty long. Phil, I can't thank you
| enough for the help you have givin me through the past few days! I
| checked the PS supply that i just bought and it is the ATX12V Ver.
| 2.01 so there's no problem there. I know the other PS is fried cause
| i also stuck it into a older comp that used the 20 pin and it didn't
| do anything. So, the only thing left could be the mobo.
| Now you said that there could be nothing wrong at all, and I would
| HOPE SOO. The only thing is, what else could be causing this? I have
| unhooked everything except ram, cpu, and gfx card. and tried booting,
| with no success. And if all the components work on another mobo, the
| only thing left is the mobo. I have read a lot lately, and still
| nothing new has come up on what could be the problem.
| And, seeing as there have been other incidents where the mobo has been
| fried from a crappy PS, I think I've found the culprit. BUT, just to
| make sure, I'm going to call up a comp store tomorrow and see if they
| can test my mobo. (my friend can't test it)
| I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings
| were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in
| the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what
| to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and
| one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i
| change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh
| to 33.3 like you were saying earlier?

Re-read the following link.

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't
wrote:

Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to default?

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
om...
So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components
of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working),
the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i
thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are
working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and
the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't
think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the
mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't
figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that
would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by
unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching
the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get
nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be
shot . . . any takers?
I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did
the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the
computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is
heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much
stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo
after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that
is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up
when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much
appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you
posted. If you can, please help me out one last time Your comments
are looked forward to.

(sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your
message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here.
Phil Weldonwrote:
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away.
_____

Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an
identical
system.
Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system.

Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially
about the
power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is
working
correctly.

Without some way of checking the three components separately you are
not
going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the
system;
mainly the motherboard}).

DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and
experience. I
can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis
it, or
at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU,
power
supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault.

Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your
system
at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation
at
STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then
try the
original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step
at a
time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not
do the
first time around.

Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'.

Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct
message; your
reply should be to my message, not to the original post.

Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable

knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning
much.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
. ..
| Phil,
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran
exactly
| the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot
screen
| or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot
more
| on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to
make
| sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has
told
| me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe
wouldn't
| fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new
| coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its
just
| there was no boot screen or anything.
| Could you think of any other reason this might be happening?
|
| Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by
instructions,
| and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within
| seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on,
and
| reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just
stayed
| on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat
and
| so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for
your
| help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning.
|

Re-read the following link.

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 22:34:56 GMT, lid (GLoBaLReBeL) wrote:

Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium
Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same
****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT
BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for
a new one.

Re-read the following link.

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 22:53:44 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
wrote:

'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium
| Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same
| ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT
| BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for
| a new one.
_____

Remember what I posted?
"So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before
purchasing anything.

Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient.
Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume
it is with either or both power supplies."

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
...
| Just an update . . . Went out and bought a new Asus P5wd2-E Premium
| Mobo, and tried starting it up . . only to find out it does the same
| ****ing THING!!! The only thing left now is the power supply, and IT
| BETTER BE THE ****ING PROBLEM!!!! Going down to fry's to exchange for
| a new one.
|

Re-read the following link.

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 23:05:22 GMT, "Phil Weldon"
wrote:

'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings
| were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in
| the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what
| to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and
| one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i
| change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh
| to 33.3 like you were saying earlier?
_____

Make sure you have the PCI bus speed locked to 33 MHz.
As for the long string of numbers for the memory timings; if you overclock
the memory (as you may do when raising the FrontSide Bus speed to overclock)
the memory timings should be left at default, and may even need to be
increased (relaxed, higher numbers) to keep the system stable. Increasing
the memory timings settings will lower the performance of the memory, but
the increase in clock speed will improve memory performance more than the
increased memory timings will decrease performance.

Remember, change only one thing at a time, and keep records. Start off with
memory timings at default. Only AFTER you get the highest possible
overclock that is stable default memory timings should you make changes in
memory timing. Larger numbers for memory timing should increase the highest
clock speed at which the memory will operate. But you may not need to use
anything but the default timing. And don't even THINK about changing the
memory timing settings until after a few months of operation.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
...
| Wow, these quote are getting pretty long. Phil, I can't thank you
| enough for the help you have givin me through the past few days! I
| checked the PS supply that i just bought and it is the ATX12V Ver.
| 2.01 so there's no problem there. I know the other PS is fried cause
| i also stuck it into a older comp that used the 20 pin and it didn't
| do anything. So, the only thing left could be the mobo.
| Now you said that there could be nothing wrong at all, and I would
| HOPE SOO. The only thing is, what else could be causing this? I have
| unhooked everything except ram, cpu, and gfx card. and tried booting,
| with no success. And if all the components work on another mobo, the
| only thing left is the mobo. I have read a lot lately, and still
| nothing new has come up on what could be the problem.
| And, seeing as there have been other incidents where the mobo has been
| fried from a crappy PS, I think I've found the culprit. BUT, just to
| make sure, I'm going to call up a comp store tomorrow and see if they
| can test my mobo. (my friend can't test it)
| I was wondering though phil, when i bought the ram it said its timings
| were 5-5-5-10 and i went to change the timing settings myself in
| the bios and there were 5 points like 5-5-5-10-4 and I don't know what
| to set the last one at? My ram is OCZ Dual channel 512's DDR2-800, and
| one final question. Since I am overclocking the system, should i
| change the timing settings on the ram, and should i also lock the mzh
| to 33.3 like you were saying earlier?

My overclocked D 805 (3.32GHz/166MHz) runs at 45c when doing web browsing.
Stock Intel Heatsink/Fan.

"2" wrote in message
...




Re-read the following link.

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't
wrote:

Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to default?

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
. com...
So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components
of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working),
the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i
thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are
working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and
the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't
think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the
mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't
figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that
would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by
unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching
the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get
nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be
shot . . . any takers?
I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did
the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the
computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is
heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much
stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo
after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that
is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up
when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much
appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you
posted. If you can, please help me out one last time Your comments
are looked forward to.

(sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your
message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here.
Phil Weldonwrote:
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away.
_____

Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an
identical
system.
Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system.

Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially
about the
power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is
working
correctly.

Without some way of checking the three components separately you are
not
going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the
system;
mainly the motherboard}).

DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and
experience. I
can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis
it, or
at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU,
power
supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault.

Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your
system
at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation
at
STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then
try the
original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step
at a
time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not
do the
first time around.

Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'.

Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct
message; your
reply should be to my message, not to the original post.

Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable

knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning
much.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
. ..
| Phil,
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran
exactly
| the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot
screen
| or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot
more
| on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to
make
| sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has
told
| me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe
wouldn't
| fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new
| coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its
just
| there was no boot screen or anything.
| Could you think of any other reason this might be happening?
|
| Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by
instructions,
| and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within
| seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on,
and
| reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just
stayed
| on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat
and
| so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for
your
| help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning.
|

That's weird!!! Why does my 2.66 sit at 45C when web browsing. And if
i overclock to 3.33 ghz, then I get around 51C web browsing. I am
even using teh Zalman cooler in the TomsHardware. I even used Arctic
5!!! It says it needs like 100 or 200 running hours or something for
it to really start working, but I would think that it would be much
lower then with the stock fan! I don't know. . .

ALSO!!! I found out that it was actually the Power Supply I bought. It
was a Version 2.01 when I need the Version 2.2. Thanx for giving me
that link Phil!!! But, u didn't answer one question of mine. When I
am setting the timing 5-5-5-10 what do i do with the LAST NUMBER?
the 5-5-5-10-(4) where 4 is the last one. Just wondering. . .
todwrote:
My overclocked D 805 (3.32GHz/166MHz) runs at 45c when doing web
browsing.
Stock Intel Heatsink/Fan.

"2" wrote in message
...




Re-read the following link.


http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/...es/page21.html

HINT: using Intel Heatsink/Fan





On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:01:45 GMT, "dawg" don't

wrote:

Did you use the CMOS jumper to return your mobo settings back to
default?

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
m...
So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the
components
of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the
ram(working),
the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i
thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo
are
working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and
the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't
think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the
mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i
can't
figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea,
that
would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by
unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching
the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get
nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be
shot . . . any takers?
I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it
did
the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the
computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is
heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and
much
stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad
mobo
after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that
is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed
up
when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much
appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide
you
posted. If you can, please help me out one last time Your
comments
are looked forward to.

(sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your
message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here.
Phil Weldonwrote:
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away.
_____

Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an
identical
system.
Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system.

Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially
about the
power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is
working
correctly.

Without some way of checking the three components separately you
are
not
going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the
system;
mainly the motherboard}).

DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and
experience. I
can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to
diagnosis
it, or
at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU,
power
supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault.

Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with
your
system
at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting
operation
at
STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then
try the
original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step
at a
time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did
not
do the
first time around.

Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'.

Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct
message; your
reply should be to my message, not to the original post.

Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable

knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning
much.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
. ..
| Phil,
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was
| lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and
| putting it into the holder.)
| Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm
| kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply
is
| what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the
| crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp
turn
| on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran
exactly
| the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot
screen
| or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot
more
| on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to
make
| sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has
told
| me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe
wouldn't
| fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new
| coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its
just
| there was no boot screen or anything.
| Could you think of any other reason this might be happening?
|
| Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by
instructions,
| and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within
| seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on,
and
| reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just
stayed
| on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat
and
| so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for
your
| help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning.
|


[/quote:8838d0994d]

And guess what . . . My Motherboard isn't supported in the support
list for the MotherBoard Monitor 5. Is there anyway to get it to
work?

Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp
accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium

'GLoBaLRebel' wrote:
| Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp
| accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium
_____

Read the manual.

And by the way, using an ATX12V ver. 2.01 with your motherboard is ok.
After all, the P5WD2 Premium was designed before the ATX12V ver. 2.2
specification and there is essentially no difference between the ATX12V ver.
2.01 and ATX12V ver. 2.2.

Read more, buy less.

Phil Weldon

"GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message
. ..
| Does anyone here know of a program that will read my temps on the comp
| accuratly? Asus p5wd2 Premium
|