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#11
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I myswelf have just built the same rig . .
Asus P5WD2 Premium Pentium D 805 SL8ZH Zalman cooler OCZ PC6400 (5-5-5-10) Geforce 7900 GT Xion II case with ****TY 450 Qmax PS Well, first things first, when i bought the case i had no idea it was a ****ty ass PS. Anyway here's what happened. . . I installed everything, booted her up and everything went GREAT! No problems, nothing at all. I was stupid though, and thought that since tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and nothing. I read up a lot, and found out about the ****ty PS that came with my case, so i went and bought a really nice coolmaster 600W PS with 120mm fan. I install it, and plug up everything. Turn it on, and YES it turns on and stays on. BUT, for some odd reason NO BEEP sound is heard and nothing is showing on the screen. So, I go ahead and pull the CPU out and try turnin g on the comp to see what happens. And wouldn't you know it, SAME THING!! Everything turns on and runs, but no POST, BIOS, screen, BEEP, nothing at all. So, What I'm asking is; Do you think I fried my cpu? Its seems to be the only logical explanation. If someone could get back to me and let me know, i would appriciate it greatly!!! I'm on AIM : Globalrebel420 Yahoo IM : Illcivichbu |
#12
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBel' wrote, in part
| I myswelf have just built the same rig . . | Asus P5WD2 Premium | Pentium D 805 SL8ZH .. | tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU | CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did | it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a | program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, | I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, | and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the | computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and | nothing. .. _____ Read up on overclocking before trying it again. Try the CPU in a working box with the correct chipset. Try with the original power supply. Check all your connections. Check the installation of the CPU (bent pins, for example) Considering the way you went about it, there lots of things that could have gone wrong. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... |I myswelf have just built the same rig . . | Asus P5WD2 Premium | Pentium D 805 SL8ZH | Zalman cooler | OCZ PC6400 (5-5-5-10) | Geforce 7900 GT | Xion II case with ****TY 450 Qmax PS | | Well, first things first, when i bought the case i had no idea it was | a ****ty ass PS. Anyway here's what happened. . . | I installed everything, booted her up and everything went GREAT! No | problems, nothing at all. I was stupid though, and thought that since | tom had a nice write-up that i could just go ahead and jump the CPU | CoreV to 1.50 to get the 3.8 Ghz that he had at a 190 FSB. So, I did | it, and everything was going fine. Windows booted up, i could run a | program or two. And then I go to start up FEAR. Gets into everything, | I turn on maxiumum for everything, and then start it up. Loads fine, | and then the movie starts up. About 15 secs into the movie, the | computer just shuts off completely. I go to turn it back on and | nothing. | I read up a lot, and found out about the ****ty PS that came with my | case, so i went and bought a really nice coolmaster 600W PS with | 120mm fan. I install it, and plug up everything. Turn it on, and YES | it turns on and stays on. BUT, for some odd reason NO BEEP sound is | heard and nothing is showing on the screen. So, I go ahead and pull | the CPU out and try turnin g on the comp to see what happens. And | wouldn't you know it, SAME THING!! Everything turns on and runs, but | no POST, BIOS, screen, BEEP, nothing at all. | | So, What I'm asking is; Do you think I fried my cpu? Its seems to be | the only logical explanation. If someone could get back to me and let | me know, i would appriciate it greatly!!! I'm on AIM : Globalrebel420 | Yahoo IM : Illcivichbu | |
#13
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
Phil,
Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and putting it into the holder.) Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just there was no boot screen or anything. Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. |
#14
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda screwed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
#15
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
double post
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#16
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components
of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be shot . . . any takers? I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you posted. If you can, please help me out one last time Your comments are looked forward to. (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. Phil Weldonwrote: 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. _____ Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an identical system. Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially about the power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is working correctly. Without some way of checking the three components separately you are not going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the system; mainly the motherboard}). DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and experience. I can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis it, or at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, power supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your system at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation at STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then try the original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step at a time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not do the first time around. Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct message; your reply should be to my message, not to the original post. Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning much. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message . .. | Phil, | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | putting it into the holder.) | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply is | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp turn | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran exactly | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot screen | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot more | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to make | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has told | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe wouldn't | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its just | there was no boot screen or anything. | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by instructions, | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, and | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just stayed | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat and | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for your | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | |
#17
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part:
| So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! _____ Good move! Getting your CPU checked was a good move! Also the video card and RAM checked. Things are looking up. With a bit of luck you may find, as you troubleshoot, that NO components need be replaced! Many of the long time participants in this newsgroup started out with the Celeron 300a (or even earlier chips). With the Celeron 300a it was difficult, if not impossible to make a serious mistake in overclocking. Things change. With your 805 D you are dealing with lower voltage but MUCH higher power consumption (probably 6 or 7 times the power consumed by a Celeron 300a overclocked by 50%). Operating systems have become much more complex and demanding, Display adapters can cost as much or more than the CPU, and consume as much power as the CPU. * Be methodical as you get your system up and running. * Make only one change at a time, and write down the result. * Any changes that takes the system outside its designed specifications should be done in VERY small steps. You probably got into trouble by not following these three rules of thumb. If you had followed these rules: * You MIGHT not have had the failure. * You definitely would not have worried about your CPU as long since when you finally tested it worked. * Perhaps you would not have purchased a new power supply. So take a deep breath and relax. Make the necessary checks before purchasing anything. Do NOT assume that your original power supply was deficient. Do NOT assume that the problem is with your motherboard, and do NOT assume it is with either or both power supplies. DO be selective about advice you receive in newsgroups. Though alt.comp.hardware.overclocking has dropped drastically in the rate of new posting, it still offers a kind of peer review. If incorrect or dangerous information is posted, it is generally called down by knowledgeable participants. (That will happen if I've been incorrect in details in this post.) This is less true in some newsgroups (alt.conp.periphs.videocards.nVidia for example). Other possibilities - the first power supply is toasted (perhaps in internal, not accessible to user, fuse is blown) and when you installed the second power supply you made the new connections incorrectly, or you inadvertently disturbed a previously correct connection. Or you disturbed the connections of other components. If your new power supply has a rear panel AC voltage selection switch, make sure it is set to ~ 120 VAC and NOT to ~ 220 VAC (some power supplies can do this automatically, and will not have this switch.) Do NOT assume that no power is supplied to your computer system (specifically the motherboard) if the front panel light is off; + 5 VDC is ALWAYS supplied to the motherboard and some plug-in cards or features built into the motherboard (RTC, LAN, Modem {as if}... any device that can start the system from an external signal, including the keyboard, mouse, and some USB devices. Unless the AC power is interrupted (by unplugging the AC power cord or by using the ON/OFF switch on the rear panel of the Power Supply) + 5 VDC 'Standby' power is ALWAYS provided. You can get an ATX power supply testing device from CompUSA as well, I suppose, from Fry's. This are pretty simple testers (about $8 to $15 US), but they allow a basic test of an ATX power supply by just plugging the main plug (20 or 24 pin) from the power supply into the tester. The tester will jumper two contacts of the plug to bring the power supply out of standby, and four or five LEDs to indicate, more or less, the presence of good voltages. What it will not do is test the power supply under normal loads, that requires large resistors that produce exactly as much heat as the electrical power drawn. That is too much for a hand held device. But a pass indication from one of these testers is a good indication that the power supply is save to try in a system. ATX power supplies have a lot of built-in protection against overload and over voltage. For example, if you should drop a metallic screwdriver onto the motherboard, USUALLY the result is only that the power supply shuts down, and AC power must be removed and reapplied to restart the system; the motherboard, power supply, and everything else completely OK. Ask me how I know B^) A new CMOS battery will have NO effect on the problem you have seen. Even with NO CMOS battery you will still get some activity when you start a system that is otherwise ok. The CMOS battery powers only two things (as far as I am aware): the Real Time Clock and the settings that are saved for the BIOS. You don't clear the RTC (Real Time Clock); you clear the settings in the CMOS memory (low power consumption memory.) The Real Time Clock can be used to start the computer system at a set time, or after an elapsed time. Since the power supply always provides + 5 VDC 'Standy' power, the motherboard is able to turn the power supply full on and the RTC can initiate System Boot. The Windows operating system can get the time and date from the RTC when it is first booted, and can then correct that time when connection to the Internet is established. Without a CMOS battery, or with a bad CMOS battery, Windows will have an invalid time when it is booted. With ATX (or ATX12, which you have) power supplies, the 'Power ON' button on the front of the system case is NOT connected to the power supply. It is connected to the power supply; it is connected to the motherboard. The Motherboard then switches the Power Supply from standby (which provides only + 5 VDC with maximum current of one or two amperes) to full on. Motherboard circuitry then checks the + 3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, +12 VDC, - 5 VDC, and - 12 VDC; if all are at the correct voltage, only THEN does the Motherboard begin the boot to BIOS control process. If the voltages are NOT correct, the motherboard switches the power supply back to standby. This is the standard which both your power supplies should meet http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5CATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf .. This is an Intel document on tested power supplies: http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/tech_reference/35815.htm .. The green light ( I guess you mean the power on light at the front of the system case) indicates that the power supply has been switched on and is providing the correct voltages. ATX power supplies (almost all desktop PC power supplies) produce + 5 VDC 'Standby' power as long as AC power is connected, regardless of whether the system is switched on by the front panel switch. If you get through this second long post, please post additional question. I, or someone else can likely post some good links with information useful for overclocking. I just ran across this web site, 'TechRepublic': http://techrepublic.com.com/2001-1-0.html . The home page appeals like a Buick, but the information I found there on Windows XP restore point files and how to find/manipulate them appeals more like an Alfa Spider Duetto ( to me, anyway.) I never would have gone past the home page had I not found the restore point information through a Google search. The Xbit Laboratories is also a good source of technical information: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/ati-vs-nv-power.html . You might find the information there on Display adapter power consumption interesting. Perhaps the article will be updated to include the 7X00 series of nVidia based cards. I generally like to find technical information from non-overclocking sites so I can have a basis to judge what I read in overclocking enthusiast sites. Phil Weldon "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message m... | So, just got back from Fry's, and had a friend test all the components | of the computer. He tested the video card(working), the ram(working), | the CPU (Working), but i never got to test the mobo because i | thought, well, if the all the components that attach to the mobo are | working, then there's nothing else left then the Power Supply, and | the Mobo. And, the Power Supply is a 600W coolmaster, so I don't | think that the power supply is my problem! I guess I have fried the | mobo in some way??!?!?!?! The green light still lights up, so i can't | figure it out! If anyone can please get back to me with an idea, that | would be great. I've cleared the RTC (like 7 times already by | unplugging the power, pulling the tiny battery, and then switching | the jumpers for 20 seconds then go back in reverse.) Still, i get | nothing. I think the only logical reason is the motherboard must be | shot . . . any takers? | I also just tried swapping out the new PS with the old one, and it did | the same thing it was doing before. With the old Power Supply, the | computer doesn't even run. With the new PS it runs but no beep is | heard, and no screen is brought up. So, after much reading, and much | stress; I have come to the conclusion that the problem is a bad mobo | after a electrical shock. I'm going to try one last thing, and that | is to replace the cmos battery with a new one. Maybe it got messed up | when the power shock happened. Anyway, your insight is much | appriciated phil. I have read, and re-read the overclocking guide you | posted. If you can, please help me out one last time Your comments | are looked forward to. | | (sorry, bout the double post, but you said i should reply to your | message. Only problem is i can only Quote it. So . . here. | Phil Weldonwrote: | 'GLoBaLReBeL' wrote, in part: | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. | _____ | | Try your CPU in ANY compatible, working system; it need not be an | identical | system. | Try a known good, compatible CPU in your present system. | | Don't make assumptions about the cause of the problem, especially | about the | power supply. As of now, you don't even know that either one is | working | correctly. | | Without some way of checking the three components separately you are | not | going to make progress in diagnosis (power supply/CPU/{rest of the | system; | mainly the motherboard}). | | DO NOT make assumptions based on too little knowledge and | experience. I | can't see your system, so you are the one who will have to diagnosis | it, or | at least gather the information. Somehow you must check the CPU, | power | supply, and rest of the system to detect the fault. | | Or, as a final resort, buy a second Intel 805 D and try it with your | system | at STOCK voltage and speed. Once you sort out the getting operation | at | STOCK voltage and speed, then try the original 805 D again. Then | try the | original power supply again. Do things slowly, carefully, one step | at a | time, writing down each change you make. All the things you did not | do the | first time around. | | Read my post on overclocking in reply to 'Chalky'. | | Also, any posts in a thread should be in reply to the correct | message; your | reply should be to my message, not to the original post. | | Good luck. It may be that you have lost a CPU, but gained valuable | | knowledge. If you don't make mistakes, you likely aren't learning | much. | | Phil Weldon | | "GLoBaLReBeL" wrote in message | . .. | | Phil, | | Just checked all connections, and pins and so forth. Nothing was | | lose, all hte pins are fine(I was always gentle with the cpu, and | | putting it into the holder.) | | Unfortunatly, i have no other friends with the same setup, so I'm | | kinda scr**ed on testing the cpu out. The original power supply | is | | what caused the problem in the first place (I THINK). After the | | crash, the power supply would only make the lights in the comp | turn | | on, then just fade away. And when i put the 600W in, it ran | exactly | | the same as it did when it was running. There is just no boot | screen | | or BEEP! The screen doesn't even turn on.) I have read up a lot | more | | on overclocking, and will be much safer next time, I just want to | make | | sure that there isn't something I'm missing. Because everyone has | told | | me that the cpu has an auto off feature, and what i describe | wouldn't | | fry the cpu. But, when i switched out the 450 PS for the new | | coolmaster 600W, everything started up and stayed started. Its | just | | there was no boot screen or anything. | | Could you think of any other reason this might be happening? | | | | Side Note : When i got fruystrated i reset the RCT by | instructions, | | and took the heatsink off the cpu and started the comp up. Within | | seconds the computer shut down. Then put the heatsink back on, | and | | reset the RCT and turned on the comp, and this time it just | stayed | | on, but no boot screen or anything. So if it can detect the heat | and | | so forth, wouldn't that mean the cpu is still good? Thanx for | your | | help ahead of time, this is very disconcerning. | | | |
#19
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel
Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. I think I should have up the voltage. "Chalky" wrote in message ... Please review the following before responding: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the time. I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. Thanks a bunch! Chalky, J.D. |
#20
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D 805 Overclocking to 4 Ghz?
'tod' wrote:
|I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. |_____ Make sure you have the PCI bus locked to 33 MHz. IDE hard drives can corrupt data at anything much over 37 MHz, causing exactly the same symptom and require exactly the same repair as you report. "tod" wrote in message k.net... |I just installed the Intel D 805 & Asus P5P800SE motherboard, using Intel | Heatsink/Fan & Powork 600W power supply. | Overclocking to 3.2GHz (166) worked fine with standard voltage, then tried | 3.49GHz (175), got a bad Windows error message on boot up. | After that Win XP refused to work, had to repair/install Windows XP. | I think I should have up the voltage. | | "Chalky" wrote in message | ... | Please review the following before responding: | http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05/..._41_ghz_cores/ | | I am thinking about building a new PC from scratch--it would be my first | self built machine. Can anyone explain to me in plain english what the | downside of using the 805 D and overclocking it up near 4.0 GHz would be? | The X2 athalon chips would be within my budget, but the tomshardware 805 | setup looks like it out performs them if done right. But, what would I not | be getting with the 805? What is the tradeoff? Based on tomshardware, it | seems that the 805 overclock would require a lot more power, but does that | have implications other than needing a bigger power supply? Is it more | expensive to run in terms of electricity? I'd like to leave it on all the | time. | | I'm not really a techie and would appreciate a plain english explanation. | Thanks a bunch! | | Chalky, J.D. | | | | | |
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