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New build won't start up.



 
 
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  #21  
Old March 16th 14, 09:51 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Mark[_20_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default New build won't start up.

On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 21:42:33 +0000 (UTC), lew
wrote:

On 2014-03-15, Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 15:20:45 -0400, Paul wrote:

Mark wrote:
Usual problem - new build, no beep, no display.

Parts:
AMD A10-7850K CPU
Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper A88X Motherboard
Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 430W
Kingston HyperX 2*GB DDR3-2133 RAM

I have tried the following:
- Reseat memory and try only one module at a time (in different slots)
- Remove CPU and refit, double check pins and CPU seated correctly.
- Remove and reconnect 24pin and 2*4 pin power connectors
- Remove and reconnect all other motherboard connections.
- Remove motherboard from case and try again.
- Monitor connected to the VGA port.

The CPU fan spins and a light on the motherboard comes on so it's not
completely dead. I know that this motherboard normally ships with an
old BIOS that does not support this CPU but the retailer assures me
that they checked this. However the motherboard did not look like it
had ever been out of the box when it arrived here.

Anything I haven't thought of? I'm really not sure it's worth trying
a different PSU and it would involve removing one from a working PC
which I would be reluctant to do. I don't have any spare memory or
another suitable CPU.


Motherboard is rated 3 of 5.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128653

And shipping with the old BIOS, is one of the problems with the board.

Check the customer review tab, for symptoms matching yours. There
are a variety of symptoms, including someone who had two of those
boards die in quick succession.


Most of the problems seem to be down to the outdated BIOS. There are
few cases of boards dying but this may be typical. Often people only
post bad reviews otherwise they don't bother. I don't know.
It is a concern though. I have had quite a few Gigabyte mobos before
and they've all been fine.

Is the USA version of this m/b the same? I have seen situations where
different products are sold with the same name in different countries.

I would at least use my multimeter, to verify voltages while
the fans are spinning. A multimeter probe can be fitted into
the plastic PSU connector shell on the motherboard, and usually
there is enough exposed metal accessible, to get a voltage
reading. I also use my clamp-on DC ammeter, to check current
draw, but that's an optional test if you happen to have the meter
available to you.


TBH I am sick of it today. Maybe I'll have another look tomorrow.
I have thought of doing something like you suggest but I have
convinced myself that it is the motherboard that it to blame. I'll
probably see if I can get hold of an Asus m/b instead next week.

However tomorrow is another day.


Had something similar happen to me.....after checking manual,
found I didn't connect the power cable for the cpu power on the
Intel chip. Most likely the the Cool Master heat sink was large
enough to just about cover the cpu connection.

Don't recall anything about a separate power connection for the
cpu on my previous systems.........


The ATX power connectors have changed over the years. Modern ones
have more pins to accomodate higher power consumptions[1].

I wish it was that simple. All power connectors are plugged in.
(24 pin main connector and the 2x4 pin ones)

[1] I think these were for the P4, which was a monster.

  #22  
Old March 16th 14, 03:39 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Paul
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,364
Default New build won't start up.

Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 21:42:33 +0000 (UTC), lew
wrote:

On 2014-03-15, Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 15:20:45 -0400, Paul wrote:

Mark wrote:
Usual problem - new build, no beep, no display.

Parts:
AMD A10-7850K CPU
Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper A88X Motherboard
Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 430W
Kingston HyperX 2*GB DDR3-2133 RAM

I have tried the following:
- Reseat memory and try only one module at a time (in different slots)
- Remove CPU and refit, double check pins and CPU seated correctly.
- Remove and reconnect 24pin and 2*4 pin power connectors
- Remove and reconnect all other motherboard connections.
- Remove motherboard from case and try again.
- Monitor connected to the VGA port.

The CPU fan spins and a light on the motherboard comes on so it's not
completely dead. I know that this motherboard normally ships with an
old BIOS that does not support this CPU but the retailer assures me
that they checked this. However the motherboard did not look like it
had ever been out of the box when it arrived here.

Anything I haven't thought of? I'm really not sure it's worth trying
a different PSU and it would involve removing one from a working PC
which I would be reluctant to do. I don't have any spare memory or
another suitable CPU.

Motherboard is rated 3 of 5.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128653

And shipping with the old BIOS, is one of the problems with the board.

Check the customer review tab, for symptoms matching yours. There
are a variety of symptoms, including someone who had two of those
boards die in quick succession.
Most of the problems seem to be down to the outdated BIOS. There are
few cases of boards dying but this may be typical. Often people only
post bad reviews otherwise they don't bother. I don't know.
It is a concern though. I have had quite a few Gigabyte mobos before
and they've all been fine.

Is the USA version of this m/b the same? I have seen situations where
different products are sold with the same name in different countries.

I would at least use my multimeter, to verify voltages while
the fans are spinning. A multimeter probe can be fitted into
the plastic PSU connector shell on the motherboard, and usually
there is enough exposed metal accessible, to get a voltage
reading. I also use my clamp-on DC ammeter, to check current
draw, but that's an optional test if you happen to have the meter
available to you.
TBH I am sick of it today. Maybe I'll have another look tomorrow.
I have thought of doing something like you suggest but I have
convinced myself that it is the motherboard that it to blame. I'll
probably see if I can get hold of an Asus m/b instead next week.

However tomorrow is another day.

Had something similar happen to me.....after checking manual,
found I didn't connect the power cable for the cpu power on the
Intel chip. Most likely the the Cool Master heat sink was large
enough to just about cover the cpu connection.

Don't recall anything about a separate power connection for the
cpu on my previous systems.........


The ATX power connectors have changed over the years. Modern ones
have more pins to accomodate higher power consumptions[1].

I wish it was that simple. All power connectors are plugged in.
(24 pin main connector and the 2x4 pin ones)

[1] I think these were for the P4, which was a monster.


In terms of power monsters, this is the new record holder :-)
The FX-9590. TDP of 220W according to this advert. This processor
really needs a 2x4 power connector, and a 2x2 would be cooked.
It's really a CPU that is being factory overclocked (run well
outside the intended design range).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819113347

The miracle part of that processor, is how the bond wires (electrical
connection between socket pin and silicon die) can take the current.
Bond wires can only take so much, before they begin to droop from
the heat. There might be more engineering to that, than meets the
eye.

Paul
  #23  
Old March 16th 14, 08:09 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Raj Kundra
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default New build won't start up.

"Paul" wrote in message
...
Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 21:42:33 +0000 (UTC), lew
wrote:

On 2014-03-15, Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 15:20:45 -0400, Paul wrote:



In terms of power monsters, this is the new record holder :-)
The FX-9590. TDP of 220W according to this advert. This processor
really needs a 2x4 power connector, and a 2x2 would be cooked.
It's really a CPU that is being factory overclocked (run well
outside the intended design range).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819113347

The miracle part of that processor, is how the bond wires (electrical
connection between socket pin and silicon die) can take the current.
Bond wires can only take so much, before they begin to droop from
the heat. There might be more engineering to that, than meets the
eye.


4.7Ghz, will it make me type faster ;-))


  #24  
Old March 17th 14, 12:36 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Johny B Good
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default New build won't start up.

On Sun, 16 Mar 2014 20:09:11 -0000, "Raj Kundra"
wrote:

"Paul" wrote in message
...
Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 21:42:33 +0000 (UTC), lew
wrote:

On 2014-03-15, Mark wrote:
On Sat, 15 Mar 2014 15:20:45 -0400, Paul wrote:



In terms of power monsters, this is the new record holder :-)
The FX-9590. TDP of 220W according to this advert. This processor
really needs a 2x4 power connector, and a 2x2 would be cooked.
It's really a CPU that is being factory overclocked (run well
outside the intended design range).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819113347

The miracle part of that processor, is how the bond wires (electrical
connection between socket pin and silicon die) can take the current.
Bond wires can only take so much, before they begin to droop from
the heat. There might be more engineering to that, than meets the
eye.


4.7Ghz, will it make me type faster ;-))


Only if someone develops new flexible heatpipe technology that allows
the keyboard to act as a CPU heatsink. :-)
--
Regards, J B Good
  #25  
Old March 28th 14, 12:39 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Yousuf Khan[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,296
Default New build won't start up.

On 15/03/2014 9:54 AM, Mark wrote:
Usual problem - new build, no beep, no display.

Parts:
AMD A10-7850K CPU
Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper A88X Motherboard
Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 430W
Kingston HyperX 2*GB DDR3-2133 RAM

I have tried the following:
- Reseat memory and try only one module at a time (in different slots)
- Remove CPU and refit, double check pins and CPU seated correctly.
- Remove and reconnect 24pin and 2*4 pin power connectors
- Remove and reconnect all other motherboard connections.
- Remove motherboard from case and try again.
- Monitor connected to the VGA port.

The CPU fan spins and a light on the motherboard comes on so it's not
completely dead. I know that this motherboard normally ships with an
old BIOS that does not support this CPU but the retailer assures me
that they checked this. However the motherboard did not look like it
had ever been out of the box when it arrived here.

Anything I haven't thought of? I'm really not sure it's worth trying
a different PSU and it would involve removing one from a working PC
which I would be reluctant to do. I don't have any spare memory or
another suitable CPU.


So what happened with this in the end? Did you get it fixed up?

Yousuf Khan
  #26  
Old March 28th 14, 01:40 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Mark[_23_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 97
Default New build won't start up.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 08:39:30 -0400, Yousuf Khan
wrote:

On 15/03/2014 9:54 AM, Mark wrote:
Usual problem - new build, no beep, no display.

Parts:
AMD A10-7850K CPU
Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper A88X Motherboard
Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 430W
Kingston HyperX 2*GB DDR3-2133 RAM

I have tried the following:
- Reseat memory and try only one module at a time (in different slots)
- Remove CPU and refit, double check pins and CPU seated correctly.
- Remove and reconnect 24pin and 2*4 pin power connectors
- Remove and reconnect all other motherboard connections.
- Remove motherboard from case and try again.
- Monitor connected to the VGA port.

The CPU fan spins and a light on the motherboard comes on so it's not
completely dead. I know that this motherboard normally ships with an
old BIOS that does not support this CPU but the retailer assures me
that they checked this. However the motherboard did not look like it
had ever been out of the box when it arrived here.

Anything I haven't thought of? I'm really not sure it's worth trying
a different PSU and it would involve removing one from a working PC
which I would be reluctant to do. I don't have any spare memory or
another suitable CPU.


So what happened with this in the end? Did you get it fixed up?


Thanks for asking :-)

I've finally got the motherboard, CPU and RAM back (after returning to
the retailer & them misplacing the components). They confessed that
they failed to update the BIOS before shipping. Now they have done
it. Last night I assembled and can get into the BIOS :-). It looks
OK. My choice of case turned out to be not ideal since it was a
little difficult to fit the drives, but this is done now. Hopefully I
will installed the OS tonight.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) If a man stands in a forest and no woman is around
(")_(") is he still wrong?

  #27  
Old March 31st 14, 08:17 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Mark[_20_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default New build won't start up.

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 13:40:48 +0000, Mark
wrote:

On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 08:39:30 -0400, Yousuf Khan
wrote:

On 15/03/2014 9:54 AM, Mark wrote:
Usual problem - new build, no beep, no display.

Parts:
AMD A10-7850K CPU
Gigabyte GA-G1.Sniper A88X Motherboard
Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 430W
Kingston HyperX 2*GB DDR3-2133 RAM

I have tried the following:
- Reseat memory and try only one module at a time (in different slots)
- Remove CPU and refit, double check pins and CPU seated correctly.
- Remove and reconnect 24pin and 2*4 pin power connectors
- Remove and reconnect all other motherboard connections.
- Remove motherboard from case and try again.
- Monitor connected to the VGA port.

The CPU fan spins and a light on the motherboard comes on so it's not
completely dead. I know that this motherboard normally ships with an
old BIOS that does not support this CPU but the retailer assures me
that they checked this. However the motherboard did not look like it
had ever been out of the box when it arrived here.

Anything I haven't thought of? I'm really not sure it's worth trying
a different PSU and it would involve removing one from a working PC
which I would be reluctant to do. I don't have any spare memory or
another suitable CPU.


So what happened with this in the end? Did you get it fixed up?


Thanks for asking :-)

I've finally got the motherboard, CPU and RAM back (after returning to
the retailer & them misplacing the components). They confessed that
they failed to update the BIOS before shipping. Now they have done
it. Last night I assembled and can get into the BIOS :-). It looks
OK. My choice of case turned out to be not ideal since it was a
little difficult to fit the drives, but this is done now. Hopefully I
will installed the OS tonight.


Right now I am not terribly impressed particularly with the case and
the PSU. I want to use the motherboard to connect the case fans but
they have molex connectors/three pin connectors.

Also I wanted to fit a third HDD and I find that the PSU has
insufficient cables to do this :-(

The case instructions are absolutely useless. There are some small
pictures explaining the obvious but nothing at all about the
additional features[1]

[1] Case fan control and dual boot[2]
[2] Which I don't want anyway but makes the HDD fit more difficult.

  #28  
Old March 31st 14, 09:38 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Yousuf Khan[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,296
Default New build won't start up.

On 31/03/2014 3:17 PM, Mark wrote:
Right now I am not terribly impressed particularly with the case and
the PSU. I want to use the motherboard to connect the case fans but
they have molex connectors/three pin connectors.


Ah yes, one of those el cheapo cases. You can get a little converter
that converts from Molex to motherboard connector.

Also I wanted to fit a third HDD and I find that the PSU has
insufficient cables to do this :-(


You can get a Y-connector for that.

Yousuf Khan
  #29  
Old March 31st 14, 10:03 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Chris Whelan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default New build won't start up.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2014 20:17:57 +0100, Mark wrote:

[...]

Right now I am not terribly impressed particularly with the case and the
PSU. I want to use the motherboard to connect the case fans but they
have molex connectors/three pin connectors.

Also I wanted to fit a third HDD and I find that the PSU has
insufficient cables to do this :-(


http://www.kenable.co.uk/?cPath=23_46

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply.
  #30  
Old March 31st 14, 11:23 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,uk.comp.homebuilt
Paul
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,364
Default New build won't start up.

Yousuf Khan wrote:
On 31/03/2014 3:17 PM, Mark wrote:
Right now I am not terribly impressed particularly with the case and
the PSU. I want to use the motherboard to connect the case fans but
they have molex connectors/three pin connectors.


Ah yes, one of those el cheapo cases. You can get a little converter
that converts from Molex to motherboard connector.

Also I wanted to fit a third HDD and I find that the PSU has
insufficient cables to do this :-(


You can get a Y-connector for that.

Yousuf Khan


There is a limit though. You'd probably want to
keep the total current draw below 8 amps or so,
on the Molex "tree" you build. You can't extend
the tree indefinitely, before the voltage
on the ends of the cable starts to drop. I discovered
this, when finding only 11V on the 12V pin on my
current computer. I had quite a few Molex feeding
off one cable at the time. One of the drives got into
a spin-down/spin-up loop. Rearranging my tree(s) fixed it.

I've also managed to burn a Molex. The load on the
pin in question was 5 amps, and my suspicion is, a
cheap Chinese connector wasn't making good contact.
(The original Molex branded ones, grip so hard, they're
difficult to get apart later.) My first notice of a problem,
was the "disconnected cable" warning on my ATI 9800Pro. I
ended up soldering a cable to the video card, to fix it
(as I didn't have any right angle soldertail Molex connectors
to use to repair the damage). The video card, still works today,
but it's retired and sitting in the original box.

Paul
 




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