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  #1  
Old July 15th 18, 05:51 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
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Posts: 3
Default New Build

My nephew emailed me for computer advice.
Here is the specs he picked out.
https://imgur.com/a/7kgD1C0

Any tips?

  #2  
Old July 15th 18, 07:39 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
Paul[_28_]
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Posts: 1,467
Default New Build

lid wrote:
My nephew emailed me for computer advice.
Here is the specs he picked out.
https://imgur.com/a/7kgD1C0

Any tips?


First of all, for best performance on a dual channel
CPU, you want two sticks of RAM. Change the single
8GB stick, to a 2x4GB kit. If you're made of money,
then a 2x8GB kit would be a better first choice.

The system would actually boot and work with a single
8GB stick, and you "might not even notice" this mistake.
But it's a dual channel CPU, so we feed it two matched
sticks for "good luck".

The liquid cooling, is probably overkill for a 95W
processor. Certainly the individual might be a raving
overclocker, and wants to try the adjustable multiplier
on the K processor. That's fine. But for cooling a 95W
processor at stock, you could probably use an air cooling
solution. Maybe something made by Noctua. The service
hours might last longer when no pump and water is
involved.

On the plus side, the water cooling choice does leave a
"void" around the CPU area, making it easier to work
in the case later. It all depends on where that
radiator is going to be located, as to what
happens to the "convenience". That radiator has to
go somewhere, and it takes space.

On my air cooled 156W processor, the cooler is so
big, you can't get your hands fully into the DIMM
area. That's a big big minus on my system, is the
air cooler is the Incredible Hulk. The cooler
cost me $100 at the time. The CPU has never gone
into thermal limiting, I can tell you. Because I'm
not overclocking it.

One thing to watch, is that the motherboard VCore
has a heatsink. Especially if you're going to be
overclocking. While the current designs may have
"limiters" on them for stability, I'm still not
all that comfortable with burning myself on
the VCore cooler. VCore on my motherboard, is
the single biggest limitation to "fun" in terms
of abusing the system. I even have turbo turned
off.

When you use a water cooler, there's no air movement
around the CPU area, for things like the VCore
cooler. A blow-down cooler (not that common these
days), is a good choice for keeping some air moving
past VCore.

A very quick power budget...

CPU - 95W
Video card - 180W
Mobo/RAM - 50W
HDD - 12W (leaves room for old clunkers)
------------------------------------------------
Total 337W

The purchaser got a 850W PSU. While there might
be some sort of plan to "SLI" two video cards,
you could shave a bit off the size of the PSU.
Now, I've probably missed something important.
The water cooling pump might be 12W right there.
I would think a quality 650W supply might
still be overkill, but not quite as much
overkill. I'd probably aim for 50% overcapacity.
So if someone said "squeeze the fat out of my
build", then maybe a 500W would do. But a
650W would prove you weren't a cheapskate.

Maybe the build quality of the 850W is better.
You can check reviews on jonnyguru.com for details
on PSUs if you're interested.

Win10 Home. If you go with Pro, you get GPEdit,
allowing some of the policies to be set a bit
easier. I can't really think of too many other
things Pro gives you, so that'll be another
one of those "taste" things.

You can do the initial build by just downloading
a Win10 DVD, install Home or Pro and run for 30 days
(plus re-arms if you want), and "evaluate"
whether GPEdit is handy or not. You don't have
to commit to an OS right away. When unlicensed,
the "Personalize" menu in Win10 won't work, so
maybe you can't change the background image or
something. It's not essential to buy boxed
software, unless you don't have a second
computer to burn DVDs on and use Internet
materials to do your evaluation. And certainly
if you "just want to get this over with", putzing
around with this for a few months probably
isn't worth it.

On the HDD, well, don't do that. The recommended
config for Win10, is SSD for boot drive, HDD
for larger storage. You'd be surprised how small
a partition you can use for the empty OS - it
uses about 10GB on first install. And if you
have hibernate turned off, you can keep C:
at the 45GB level.

When you add games to the picture, of course they're
going to bloat things up.

It's hard to beat around the bush on this.
This is how it goes.

1) Win10 beats the **** out of C:
The SSD makes a world of difference to
this. Like, you can start with the 1TB
hard drive, but you'll feel the difference
if switching to an SSD. Win10 is always annoying
at boot time, but less so with an SSD.

2) If gaming, there's certainly the possibility
of the size of C: growing. I could easily get by
with a 120GB SSD if it wasn't for the size of the game
files. And I'm not a big fan of moving "Program Files (x86)"
to a second drive either - the Win10 Upgrade Installer
isn't going to like that option.

SSDs are getting larger.

$80 gets me 250GB

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820147676

$118 gets me 500GB

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820147674

You can certainly start out the system build with the
HDD, and change over (clone) the HDD to an SSD later
with Macrium Reflect Free. Then make the 1TB HDD into
a movie storage device. So if you want to start with
a $44 HDD, no harm done. Switching to an SSD later, you
can still get some usage out of the HDD.

I didn't look in detail at the mobo/CPU compatibility
or crack the manual to see if all the stuff fits
together, and this is just a few quick comments.

Paul
  #3  
Old July 16th 18, 12:08 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
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Default New Build

I appreciate all the advice and thank you for your knowledge on this, this will be my first gaming build computer and am trying to put together a good set up that's going to hold up to gaming for the next 5 years, and be able to play everything new at the most possible visual quality.
Thanks Paul,-Daniel
  #4  
Old July 16th 18, 11:41 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
DMP[_6_]
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Posts: 5
Default New Build

On 7/15/2018 12:51 PM, lid wrote:
My nephew emailed me for computer advice.
Here is the specs he picked out.
https://imgur.com/a/7kgD1C0

Any tips?


Our main PC was home built 3 years ago and is still running strong with
no hardware issues.

What we found during the course of putting ours together, was that
careful shopping got us a ton of rebates. So, pick your parts and shop
around.

Partspicker helped a lot. It's a pain to chop up the boxes for the
barcode and send in receipts, but well worth the couple of hundred
dollars we saved.
  #5  
Old July 16th 18, 11:55 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
Paul[_28_]
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Posts: 1,467
Default New Build

wrote:
I appreciate all the advice and thank you for your knowledge on this, this will be my first gaming build computer and am trying to put together a good set up that's going to hold up to gaming for the next 5 years, and be able to play everything new at the most possible visual quality.
Thanks Paul,-Daniel


I notice you're missing a motherboard.
Was that intentional ?

This is a 300 series, which has a more complete set of
PCIe slots. Some of the other boards only have a couple
PCIe slots and a lot of M.2 connectors.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16813144106

What I find, is I have toys here with x1 connectors (and one with
an x4 connector). And a little flexibility in the slots, gives
me some room to plug the toys in. If you're not a collector
of $40 expansion cards, perhaps this doesn't matter to you.

There are around 67 boards in the $100-$200 range to choose from.

In the reviews for the above board, one overclocker manages
to get the 8600K to 5GHz on multipliers. Not that you have
to overclock of course... At least the board works with 8600K,
which was the point of looking quickly through the reviews.

I'm kinda shocked at the overall price of your system,
but I guess we can blame that on the video card. My
system here has a $40 class video card in it, because
at the time, the video card I wanted had bad drivers
so I said "screw it" and moved on. And I still haven't
fixed that. For one thing, modern video cards are
too damn fat, and take up a lot of space inside the
machine, which means I'll be making more tradeoffs if
I go that way. The $40 video card is a single slot card
with a relatively small heatsink.

Paul
  #6  
Old July 16th 18, 01:36 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
Peter Johnson[_5_]
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Posts: 19
Default New Build

On Sun, 15 Jul 2018 14:39:49 -0400, Paul
wrote:

wrote:
My nephew emailed me for computer advice.
Here is the specs he picked out.
https://imgur.com/a/7kgD1C0

Any tips?


First of all, for best performance on a dual channel
CPU, you want two sticks of RAM. Change the single
8GB stick, to a 2x4GB kit. If you're made of money,
then a 2x8GB kit would be a better first choice.

The system would actually boot and work with a single
8GB stick, and you "might not even notice" this mistake.
But it's a dual channel CPU, so we feed it two matched
sticks for "good luck".

Both the first page (first item) and the second (last item) have an
8Gb ram stick so he got 16Gb of ram, but it might be cost effective to
order a 2 x 8Gb matched pair for the purpose of running them in dual
channel mode. (Or maybe one of them was intended to be the missing
motherboard.)
  #7  
Old July 16th 18, 01:52 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
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Posts: 5
Default New Build

Motherboard specs:
MSI z270 gaming M3 LGA 1151 internal z270 HDMI SATA 6gb/s usb 3.1 ATX motherboards-Intel
  #8  
Old July 16th 18, 05:38 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
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Posts: 5
Default New Build

I have reselected my choices per your advice and matched the two, now to do even more research. I feel a bit overwhelmed, its a bunch to research and take in, thank you for all the help so far. I still have many questions. Trying to learn a bit more so i can narrow my questions.
  #10  
Old July 17th 18, 02:58 AM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
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Posts: 5
Default New Build

Case 1 x iBUYPOWER Snowblind Element [Restock Date: 11/27]
LED Fan Lighting 1 x 3x [RGB] Raidmax NV-R120B 120mm RGB LED Ring Fan
Case Lighting 1 x Snowblind White LEDs
Processor 1 x Intel® Core™ i7-8700K Processor (6x 3.70GHz/12MB L3 Cache)
Processor Cooling 1 x DEEPCOOL Captain 120EX Gamer Storm 120mm Liquid CPU Cooling System - RGB
Memory 1 x 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-3000 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory
Video Card 1 x NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 - 8GB (VR-Ready) - FREE Upgrade to NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 MSI ARMOR OC 8GB
Motherboard 1 x GIGABYTE Z370XP SLI -- RGB Fusion, 3x PCIe x16, 1x USB 3.1 Gen2, 6x USB 3.1 Gen1 [Intel Optane Ready]
Power Supply 1 x 800 Watt - Standard 80 PLUS Bronze - (includes White Sleeved Cables)
Primary Hard Drive 1 x 16 GB Intel® Optane™ Memory Accelerator M.2 PCIe NVMe + 1 TB 7200RPM Hard Drive - (OS Drive)
Data Hard Drive 1 x 1 TB Hard Drive -- 32MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive
Sound Card 1 x 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard
Network Card 1 x Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)

New build list
 




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