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Presario 2100 broken power connector



 
 
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  #31  
Old November 22nd 05, 04:38 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

Well, I got a new power connector ... but now I've got a new problem:
in removing the old one, one of the pins broke off. So the old
connector is gone but a piece of a pin is left in one of the holes
... soldered.

There's no end to grab. But even if I could, there's the solder. How
do you melt the solder without burning the board? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

  #32  
Old November 22nd 05, 06:31 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

Wow, that's a bummer. I'm not an instrument tech by trade, just a
hobbiest/hack. But the things that come to mind are to either drill
it out with a TINY drill (dremel?) or to heat up the joint in the
board (may have to apply a bit of solder to get the heat to conduct
into the board) and try to shove a more intact piece of one of the
remaining pins back through, pushing the broken one out (or use a
mini screwdriver in lieu of one of the pins, they will possibly just
bend).

Either way, you could probably use an extra set of hands. I did with
mine, one of my pins were really in the board and I needed someone
else to pull on the tab while I heated and held the board.

Definitely get other advice than mine, from someone who has
experienced this problem in real life. And good luck man!

  #33  
Old November 23rd 05, 04:42 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

The problem is irritating, but not insurmountable. The trick is to have
at hand a technique that will get the job done without having to heat
the solder pad for an excessive amount of time. I'll propose two
methods; a combination of the two will probably be the most effective.
If you can get help, so much the better, but here's what I'd do if
I could be the

First off, you need to be using a proper soldering iron. A small one
(say 15 watts) that would be appropriate for the smaller circuitry
elsewhere would take to long to heat this larger joint; on the other
hand, too large an iron could quickly overheat the board (as you have
been concerned) and cause the soldering pads to lift right off the
board! Something around 30 or 40 watts should be about right. (For
example, a 140-watt soldering gun would be out of the question!)

Since there's nothing to grab, I'd heat the joint and poke the
broken stub out with something. The "something" can be anything
that will itself fit thru the slot without either catching on fire or
becoming soldered into the slot itself. I've often used the
appropriate diameter of one of my cheap set of jeweler's
screwdrivers, or even the "back" end of a small drill bit. You can
pick the right tool by testing it on one of the already-open slots. (It
needs to be something fairly small so that it will not "soak up"
too much heat and inhibit the process.) You'll have to heat and poke
simultaneously by applying the soldering iron tip to the solder at the
side of the slot, so you can run your "poker" thru as soon as the
solder becomes flowable. Since the broken terminal may have become a
bit club-footed on the top, I'd work and poke from the bottom side of
the board, as the terminal may not pass through going the other
direction.

The other approach is to remove nearly all the solder so that there is
little to retain the terminal stub. This could be done with a number of
solder-removal devices, but the simplest is merely a copper braid used
to wick-up molten solder. The material is laid over the solder you wish
to remove, and then the iron is applied to the braid which draws the
molten solder away by capillary action. It may take a few applications
of "fresh" sections of braid in succession to get all the solder.
The most common product variety is called "Solder-Wick". Radio
Shack stocks a product they call "desoldering braid".

Doing a bit of the solder wicking action may make the first method
above go more easily by making the stub easier to see and poke at, or
it may even be effective all by itself. Each problem is a bit
different, but it can be overcome. You're almost there! it may help
to visualize and practice (with the iron off) how you might best hold
what without burning yourself so you'll have a technique in mind once
you actually start. Good luck!

  #34  
Old November 25th 05, 10:31 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

There are different type of jacks on Ebay for Compaq Presarios. Can
someone confirm if
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-...cmdZ ViewItem
is the right jack for a Compaq Presario 2100US? Thanks in advance.

  #35  
Old November 26th 05, 03:31 AM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

I have another question. Do I have to have any contact with the bottom
side of the motherboard? I don't want to remove the motherboard from
the case because that will be a bit annoying. I just have to solder
the new piece from the top right?

  #36  
Old November 26th 05, 05:31 AM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

crazykid55555wrote:
There are different type of jacks on Ebay for Compaq Presarios. Can
someone confirm if
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-...cmdZ ViewItem
is the right jack for a Compaq Presario 2100US? Thanks in advance.I
have a 2100US and it "LOOKS" correct. Compare it with this link
http://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-Presario-...QQcmdZViewItem
which is the one I used to repair my laptop.

  #37  
Old November 26th 05, 05:31 AM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

crazykid55555wrote:
I have another question. Do I have to have any contact with the
bottom side of the motherboard? I don't want to remove the
motherboard from the case because that will be a bit annoying. I just
have to solder the new piece from the top right?You WILL have to
remove the motherboard to gain access to where you de-solder the old
jack and re-solder the new one in. You cannot do the repair from the
top, and you will be more comfortable with the actual repair with the
motherboard removed. Check out earlier posts in this thread to see
how it is done.

  #38  
Old November 26th 05, 01:31 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

Hi all..

I have a compaq presario 2100 model laptop. My ac jack is found to be
the problem. As discussed, i have thought of buying a docking station
for that. But, the latop i have doesnot have the docking connector
(bottom side of the notebook).

I just see a rectangular marking on the back side. WHat should i do?

1. buy a new backside case? or
2. is it possible to just mount that docking connector to my existing
backside case

Please gimme suggestions...

Also, how much does it cost just for docking connector or new backside
case...

Bye

  #39  
Old November 28th 05, 04:06 PM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector


venkatfilms wrote:
Hi all..

I have a compaq presario 2100 model laptop. My ac jack is found to be
the problem. As discussed, i have thought of buying a docking station
for that. But, the latop i have doesnot have the docking connector
(bottom side of the notebook).

I just see a rectangular marking on the back side. WHat should i do?

1. buy a new backside case? or
2. is it possible to just mount that docking connector to my existing
backside case

Please gimme suggestions...

Also, how much does it cost just for docking connector or new backside
case...

Bye


I don't have a 2100, but I see by looking at Compaq's
"Maintenance and Service Guide" that the docking port connector
appears "on certain models" in the series. A new lower case half
(with a cutout and cover for the port) would not help, as the needed
connector (and probable support circuitry) would undoubtedly be absent
also. The odds of adding a connector would be slim. On most systems, it
typically mounts to the motherboard itself, so adding it -- even if
possible (or available!) -- would be far more complex than replacing
the DC power connector.

I do notice that the 2100 parts list shows a "port replicator
cover", and the bottom view drawings show a rectangular cutout shown
as "port replicator connect" on the bottom near the rear of the
notebook. Is yours just an outline in the case plastic as it appears,
or is it perhaps a removable cover? Take a close look... it would be
great if it's just there waiting for you to uncover! But if it's
not... then it's not, and won't be. Good luck!

  #40  
Old December 8th 05, 12:32 AM posted to alt.sys.pc-clone.compaq
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Default Presario 2100 broken power connector

Not all of the 2100's/2500's have the full featured board design
w/docking station capabilities. On another note? Quit feeding E-bay
and go to Digi-key.com or Mouser.com for the jacks? I can get these
for a whopping 60C per and man I hate to see people getting ripped by
the E-bay scammers selling at 500% profit margins. (I know I started
there buying and selling inop laptops) If anybody needs how-to help
or info feel free to contact us also. We do these for 89.00 parts and
labor plus a whopping 14.00 for return ship if you cannot do the job.
Also good posting on the genteman offering info on the desoldering
braid and other options! (We have to tell people this every day via
phone).. But 40 watts is a min ammt need for the iron to get it to
flow w/ wick involved on the negative side for these. Good luck all.

 




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