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Heatsink Question
In article , Jay Peterman
wrote: After my computer stopped booting I asked for advice. I was advised it was more than likely the power supply. I purchased an Antec 400 watt supply which fixed the problem (Thanks to DaveW and Paul). I noticed that the fan on the MB still did not start up. Someone advised that I check the BIOS for fan information. The BIOS did not have any info on it. The fan on the MB is not directly connected to the power supply. I found the CD with the Probe Utility on it and installed it. Here is info that it provided: On the Monitor Summary page: CPU Fan, Power Fan and Chassis Fan "below threshold" is flashing. On the Temperature Monitor page: The temperatures are below the threshold On the Fan Monitor page: Flashing zeroes Settings page: CPU Fan - 2200 rpm Power Fan - 1200 rpm Chassis Fan - 1200 rpm On the Fan Monitor page the graph shows that the thresholds are set to the above settings. The board is a P4S8X, PIV 2.4GhZ. There is a BIOS available which I downloaded from their site but I'm taking a slow "learn everything before" type approach to that. My question is should the MB fan be running all the time or just when needed? The top of the computer case appears a little warmer than normal. Thanks for any help. When you refer to "MB fan", are you looking at the fan on top of the CPU heatsink when you say that ? The diagram in the manual for the board, doesn't show a fan on the Northbridge - are you looking at the Northbridge chip ? (it sits just below the processor socket) There are three fan headers on the motherboard. CHA_FAN, CPU_FAN, PWR_FAN. These are monitored in the BIOS in Power Menu:Hardware Monitor. The CPU_FAN, according to the BIOS page, has Q-Fan control. This is disabled by default. Q-Fan adjusts the fan speed, ramping the fan up between 50C and 60C measured CPU temperature. On older boards, Q-Fan will always make the fan spin, as it still supplies some voltage to the CPU fan at all times. So, to start with, you can check and make sure Q-Fan is disabled, so the CPU fan can run at full speed if it is able. The second issue, is each fan header has a current limit. The manual lists 350mA per header. If more than 350mA is needed, generally you should purchase an adapter that plugs into a disk drive cable to get the necessary +12V power. Such an adapter will include a male and female fan connector, and one of those connects to the motherboard to deliver the RPM (tachometer) signal, so the BIOS can monitor the fan. The fan speed listed in the BIOS can be registering zero for a couple of reasons. Some fans have no RPM signal (only two wires go to the three hole connector). If the fan spins below some threshold value (maybe 1800RPM), sometimes this leads to the BIOS reading the value as zero. Asus Probe might be a little smarter about this. So, what reasons are there for a fan to be dead ? 1) Fan header is dead. If you shorted the fan header at some point, or used a monster fan that draws an amp of current at +12V, then some component between the fan header and the ATX power 20 pin connector could be burnt. In this case, there really isn't a reason for such a component on the CHA_FAN or the PWR_FAN header, but the CPU_FAN has the Q-Fan transistor and it can get damaged. 2) Fan is dead. Electrical failure. 3) Fan cable is unplugged or oriented incorrectly. An incorrect orientation (i.e. thwarting the key on the connector by jamming it) could damage the fan. 4) Fan rotor is jammed with dirt. 5) Sleeve bearing fans with no oil and loose tolerances can jam due to wobble. I test fans here, by using a nine volt battery and one of those nine volt battery clips with the red and black wires on it. I touch red to red and black to black, to connect 9 volts to the 12 volt fan. This runs the fan at less than full speed, but it does tell me that the fan is OK. As mentioned in (3) above, you have to be absolutely certain of polarity when doing this, because AFAIK fans don't have polarity protection (I haven't tested this, cause I like all my fans :-) If you have managed to burn your fan headers, all is not lost. Of the three signals, +12V, GND, RPM, typically the RPM is still good. If you buy a fan power adapter, you can adapt all the fans to run from a disk drive cable, and still plug the single wire plus three hole connector, to the individual fan headers, so the RPMs can be monitored. Here is a sample picture of an Antec fan power adapter. There are two adapters in this picture, because they are sold two to a package for this product. This particular model has no "daisy chain" capability - some adapters have a male and female four pin disk drive connector, so you can chain three adapters together, wasting only one disk drive connector on the PSU. http://www.antec.com/images/400/3_4pinfan_pwadapter.jpg As for the BIOS, I wouldn't reach for the flashing program just yet. If you want to flash a BIOS, _first_ check for warnings about which Asus flash methods don't work with a particular BIOS release. This info is on the download page, can be seen by clicking the "More" link, and usually shows up on the final download (server choice) page. The DOS boot floppy method is the most stable, and the computer should be in a stable state before you flash (no overclock, no power failures expected or computer is fed by a UPS, etc). Double and triple check you have downloaded the correct file - many dead boards are a result of grabbing the wrong file. Doing a Google search using the motherboard name and keyword "flash", may uncover cases of boards killed by flashing, and reading up on the root cause (what people did wrong) may help prevent you from joining them. If the board does fail to post, the alternative is to contact badflash.com and buy a replacement flash chip. For the "four sided" PLCC flash chips, it pays to pick up an extractor tool, as it helps pull the chips out flush to the motherboard. These cost $10 at Radio Shack for a chip extractor or some companies include a cheaper version of the tool with the replacement flash chip. HTH, Paul |
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