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2500 Barton - running too hot?



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 30th 03, 01:24 AM
ß Ø ® G
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I was a bit sus of the heat readings on my Mobo so I went to Lidls and
bought a digital thermometer for £2.99 and used that to check, nice
fine point to get onto the heatsink at the base and other components


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  #12  
Old July 30th 03, 12:33 PM
Mike Tomlinson
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In article , Neil
writes

Right from when I first turned it on, the BIOS reported the CPU temp as
around 66 degrees C. After a few mins powered on, it was at 69-70. With
moderate usage it hit 72 degrees.


Not wishing to teach granny to suck eggs, but you did make sure to align
the step in the base of the heatsink with the raised portion of the
socket, didn't you?

Are you fitting the heatsink with the motherboard in the case? Try
taking it all out and doing it on a flat surface, so you get a better
view of how the heatsink and cpu mate, then install the assembled
shebang into the case.

From other posts though it does appear as if other people are running more
at 45-50 degrees C.


I run an XP2400+ (T'bred though, not Barton) at about 48-ish.

Am running in a case with 2 to 3 EIDE hard-drives; 1 x DVD, 1x DVD-R, and 3
PCI cards, plus an AGP card. The case has a fan on the lower front drawing
air in, and a fan on the rear middle drawing out. Power supply is 300W.


That's rather a lot for a 300W PSU. Is it a decent quality one?

  #13  
Old July 30th 03, 12:45 PM
spodosaurus
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Neil wrote:
I hope the vendor made sure you had something to replace the thermal pad
before he/she told you to reseat the heatsink.


No they didn't. :-(


Since you had Artic Silver II on hand, I'll bet you already know the
following, but just in case, I'll say it anyway. Make sure you don't use
too much of the thermal compound since that can be almost as bad as too
little. Also, how thoroughly did you clean off the thermal pad? If you
aren't familiar with the process, check:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm

Again, please forgive me if you already know all this.



Comments welcomed. Unfortunately as the system was down, I'd had no web
access to check the site, as I'd wanted to.

Looking at it I:
* may have not cleaned the bottom of the heatsink, and top of chips
sufficiently. Had no isonpronyl alchohol, and not sure what else to use.


I use acetone for preliminary cleaning with a clean rag. I then use
alcohol wipes available from a drug store that are used for cleaning an
area before an injection to do the final clean and take off any lint
from the first stage.

* did touch both with my fingers


reclean it if you touched the contact area of the heat sink or the die
of the CPU.

* may have applied just a little too much AS II.


You need a VERY small amount. I often take a plastic sandwich bag and
use this to create a barrier between my finger and the thermal grease
and then spread it around like that. It's surprising how little you need.


I'll start again, though any other hints, and an indication of what
"goodness" should be for this setup is still appreciated. Also why
MBM seems to be reporting 14-15 degrees higher than the BIOS.


Is it set for the correct chips?


ps. in answer to the previous reply, the bottom of the heatsink does have a
round copper coloured centre.

Neil




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  #14  
Old July 30th 03, 12:59 PM
Tim Auton
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Rob Morley wrote:
In article ,
says...
"ß Ø ® G" wrote in message
...
I was a bit sus of the heat readings on my Mobo so I went to Lidls and
bought a digital thermometer for £2.99 and used that to check, nice
fine point to get onto the heatsink at the base and other components


But instead you trust a digital thermometer . . . . from Lidl . . . . . for
£2.99 . . . . . ROFLMAO . . . . . :-)


You can easily check the calibration of such a device - ice = 0 degrees,


To be a bit anal about it, you want melting ice in a little water. Ice
straight fron the freezer will be well below zero.


Tim
  #15  
Old July 30th 03, 02:35 PM
Tony Houghton
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In ,
dorothy.bradbury wrote:

I suspect the latter, but there is a relatively simple test.
o If the CPU were running 62oC+ as cited
o Then the heatsink itself should be barely touchable


But not if the reason the CPU is running so hot is because the heat
isn't being transferred properly into the heatsink.

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  #16  
Old July 30th 03, 03:16 PM
dorothy.bradbury
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Aside, check your voltages are in spec.
In some situations you can have bad temperature readings if the voltages are
off.

Rare, but it can happen. Seen it in a 24-pin 460W 1U Dual-Xeon PSU.
--
DB


  #17  
Old July 30th 03, 09:01 PM
tHatDudeUK
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"Neil" wrote in message
...
Have you checked that the HSF they have supplied is actually recommended
for the Barton?
I assume it's at least copper-cored?


Um, no..... it had no particular markings, and the store is a
nationwide-selling long established, pc-making company, so I'd made the
assumption they would supply matched outfits. I could be wrong on that
though, particularly bearing in mind how what was released was so quickly
operating at such a high temperature. I'll call them and check.


That sounds like the problem right there. Get a decent coolermaster cooler
rated for use with this CPU.


  #18  
Old July 30th 03, 10:33 PM
Lee Blaver
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Neil wrote:


The dealer has sent me a replacement fan, in a retail box, so I can see now
that what I had/have is a Speeze SPA07B2 MicroFlow II. It says it is
rated to a 3.2Ghz Barton. Can't find this on their website though. It
looks a lot like the EEA10B4 though, on www.speeze.com


http://www.spirecoolers.com/asp/fcc.asp?ProdID=95

Very similar to the quiet Spire cooler I junked in favour of
the (very noisy!) X-dream I have now :-)

Lee
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  #19  
Old July 30th 03, 11:34 PM
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My new pc system is based around an AMD Barton 2500, and it is running at
49 degrees at idle, and rises to around 52 degrees under heavy load.

The system is very stable and has suffered no crashes/bsod's/etc.

My system spec is as follows:

Antec midi tower case with 340w PSU.
Front (low), rear (high) and side case (80mm) fans, plus one fan to the
psu and the manufacturers fan and heatsink on the cpu.
I do not remove the case covers.
Asus A7N8X Deluxe m/b (onboard lan/usb v2/agp x8/SATA150).
AMD Athlon Barton 2500 cpu.
The system is overclocked from the default 11 x 166 = 1.81Ghz to 12 x 175
= 2.1Ghz.
512Mb crucial 2700 (333) DDR ram (memory speed is set at 175 & cas 2.5).
120Gb Maxtor Serial ATA150 h/d.
Radeon 9600 pro 128Mb agpx8 card (overclocked from default 400/340 to
500/360).
Hitachi 19" crt (cm721f) monitor.
Samsung x16 DVD/x52 CD player.
Pioneer x52 x24 x52 CDR/W.
Running Windows XP Home (sp1)

This system scores over 4000 in 3Dmark2003

*Peter*
  #20  
Old August 3rd 03, 09:59 AM
Neil
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Thanks again for all the input.

I've achieved a small improvement only from following most of this....
I took the heatsink off, and followed the cleaning instructions for this and
the CPU core on the Arctic Silver site. That included rubbing AS II into
the copper heatsink core, then "polishing" that.

Refitting it all carefully, and with the side of the PC on, I get the
following temperatures. All of these are just sitting in the BIOS, looking
at the reading there, before Windows starts....

51 deg C - As soon as power on (well takes 20 secs to reach the point I can
read this). NB. this from a cold system down for at least several hours.
30 secs - 52 to 53
1 min - 55 deg
90 secs - 56 to 57
2 mins - 57 to 58
3 mins - 58
4 mins - 59
5 mins - 59 to 60

In Windows later, MBM shows me at 65 on idle.

This still seems very hot compared to what most of you get. I tried the
new heatsink the vendors sent me. Initially tried that with the original
thermal pad on. I had to power off quickly, as my first view of the temp
at 20 secs said 78 deg C!

So at the moment have reverted to the original heatskink, fan, and AS II.
Temps still at the above levels. If I feel the heatskink immediately after
power-down, it does not feel hot. Right low down to the chip it feels just
a little warm. From the imprints of the core on the base of the heatsink,
as seen in the AS II it *appears* to be making consistent contact.

Clearly I can take this all back to the vendor to be checked out, and I'll
do that unless anyone has any other ideas. It could be that the
temperature isn't reading correctly. I'm not sure how best to tell if that
is the case or not.

--
regards,
Neil


 




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