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Multiple Power supply failures
I have a Sony RB 38G computer that has had 3 power supply failures in
the last four months. The first one was 2 months after warranty expired. When I had it replaced, the guy said that a connector on the motherboard was a little burnt. He said he cleaned it up and that there should not be a problem. He replaced it with a 450 watt Okia. Three weeks later it went bad. He replaced it under the 30 day warranty. Two months later it has failed again. Should I replace the power supply with a better one than Okia, or should I replace the motherboard and power supply? If I replace the motherboard, are there any suggestions as to specific motherboards for this computer? |
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Multiple Power supply failures
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Multiple Power supply failures
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#4
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Multiple Power supply failures
In article .com,
" wrote: wrote: I have a Sony RB 38G computer that has had 3 power supply failures in the last four months. The first one was 2 months after warranty expired. When I had it replaced, the guy said that a connector on the motherboard was a little burnt. He said he cleaned it up and that there should not be a problem. He replaced it with a 450 watt Okia. Three weeks later it went bad. He replaced it under the 30 day warranty. Two months later it has failed again. Should I replace the power supply with a better one than Okia, or should I replace the motherboard and power supply? If I replace the motherboard, are there any suggestions as to specific motherboards for this computer? As this is your fourth one, it's time to to a *thorough* inspection of the motherboard for shorts (top and bottom). Something may be killing PSUs. The burnt connector is a Danger Will Robinson kind of thing. Also inspect the rest of the system for shorts. In other words, it's like having the same fuse blow three times in a row: stop replacing fuses and hunt down the problem. The service person should be using his clamp-on DC ammeter to measure the current, especially on the pin that burned. The maximum current allowed per pin is 6 amps. The motherboard is overloading the connector and causing too much current to flow. The service person should have realised this the first time, when seeing the burnt connector. Half a repair, is no repair at all. (First the repair guy removes and replaces the connector, and then uses the ammeter once the connector is repaired, to see if too much current is present on any pin. It only takes 5 minutes to check with a clamp-on DC ammeter, and it will take more time to solder a replacement connector on there, than to do the measurement.) Yes, you could replace the motherboard, but it would really help to track down the problem, so that when the replacement motherboard is installed, you can be sure that the replacement will fix the problem once and for all. Checking the current flow with a clamp-on ammeter, with the new motherboard in place, would be a good thing to try. If you know which pin is burned, that is useful information. Here are some connector pinouts. Your motherboard either has a 20 pin or a 24 pin connector. You should be able to orient yourself by using the stated wire colors below. The 24 pin type is the two columns on the left, and is a more modern connector than the 20 pin type on the right. Which pin is burned ? ----- ATX 2.0+ main connector ----- --- ATX previous versions --- Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color 1 +3.3VDC Orange 13 +3.3VDC Orange 1 +3.3VDC Orange 11 +3.3VDC Orange 2 +3.3VDC Orange 14 -12VDC Blue 2 +3.3VDC Orange 12 -12VDC Blue 3 COM Black 15 COM Black 3 COM Black 13 COM Black 4 +5VDC Red 16 PS_ON# Green 4 +5VDC Red 14 PS_ON# Green 5 COM Black 17 COM Black 5 COM Black 15 COM Black 6 +5VDC Red 18 COM Black 6 +5VDC Red 16 COM Black 7 COM Black 19 COM Black 7 COM Black 17 COM Black 8 PWR_OK Gray 20 Reserved N/C 8 PWR_OK Gray 18 N/C or -5V 9 +5VSB Purple 21 +5VDC Red 9 +5VSB Purple 19 +5VDC Red 10 +12V1DC Yellow 22 +5VDC Red 10 +12VDC Yellow 20 +5VDC Red 11 +12V1DC Yellow 23 +5VDC Red 12 +3.3 VDC Orange 24 COM Black Paul |
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Multiple Power supply failures
Paul wrote:
In article .com, " wrote: wrote: I have a Sony RB 38G computer that has had 3 power supply failures in the last four months. The first one was 2 months after warranty expired. When I had it replaced, the guy said that a connector on the motherboard was a little burnt. He said he cleaned it up and that there should not be a problem. He replaced it with a 450 watt Okia. Three weeks later it went bad. He replaced it under the 30 day warranty. Two months later it has failed again. Should I replace the power supply with a better one than Okia, or should I replace the motherboard and power supply? If I replace the motherboard, are there any suggestions as to specific motherboards for this computer? As this is your fourth one, it's time to to a *thorough* inspection of the motherboard for shorts (top and bottom). Something may be killing PSUs. The burnt connector is a Danger Will Robinson kind of thing. Also inspect the rest of the system for shorts. In other words, it's like having the same fuse blow three times in a row: stop replacing fuses and hunt down the problem. The service person should be using his clamp-on DC ammeter to measure the current, especially on the pin that burned. That wont necessarily be there now. More likely that was due to a mains spike which is long gone now. The maximum current allowed per pin is 6 amps. The motherboard is overloading the connector and causing too much current to flow. That wont kill a properly designed power supply. The service person should have realised this the first time, when seeing the burnt connector. Half a repair, is no repair at all. (First the repair guy removes and replaces the connector, and then uses the ammeter once the connector is repaired, to see if too much current is present on any pin. It only takes 5 minutes to check with a clamp-on DC ammeter, and it will take more time to solder a replacement connector on there, than to do the measurement.) Unlikely to be there all the time if the system works fine for a while. Yes, you could replace the motherboard, but it would really help to track down the problem, so that when the replacement motherboard is installed, you can be sure that the replacement will fix the problem once and for all. Checking the current flow with a clamp-on ammeter, with the new motherboard in place, would be a good thing to try. I doubt it would show anything given that the system works fine for weeks. If you know which pin is burned, that is useful information. I doubt it. Here are some connector pinouts. Your motherboard either has a 20 pin or a 24 pin connector. You should be able to orient yourself by using the stated wire colors below. The 24 pin type is the two columns on the left, and is a more modern connector than the 20 pin type on the right. Which pin is burned ? ----- ATX 2.0+ main connector ----- --- ATX previous versions --- Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color Pin Signal Color 1 +3.3VDC Orange 13 +3.3VDC Orange 1 +3.3VDC Orange 11 +3.3VDC Orange 2 +3.3VDC Orange 14 -12VDC Blue 2 +3.3VDC Orange 12 -12VDC Blue 3 COM Black 15 COM Black 3 COM Black 13 COM Black 4 +5VDC Red 16 PS_ON# Green 4 +5VDC Red 14 PS_ON# Green 5 COM Black 17 COM Black 5 COM Black 15 COM Black 6 +5VDC Red 18 COM Black 6 +5VDC Red 16 COM Black 7 COM Black 19 COM Black 7 COM Black 17 COM Black 8 PWR_OK Gray 20 Reserved N/C 8 PWR_OK Gray 18 N/C or -5V 9 +5VSB Purple 21 +5VDC Red 9 +5VSB Purple 19 +5VDC Red 10 +12V1DC Yellow 22 +5VDC Red 10 +12VDC Yellow 20 +5VDC Red 11 +12V1DC Yellow 23 +5VDC Red 12 +3.3 VDC Orange 24 COM Black Paul |
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Multiple Power supply failures
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