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#12
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No Video from PC
On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 11:53:16 PM UTC-4, Paul wrote:
wrote: Update: The Power supply and CPU fans spin and the heat sinks are secure. I have tried two different working monitors and tapping the power button does not result in the PC turning off. (I have to leave my finger on the button). The monitor light does not even come on anymore when I power on. The motherboard is an ASUS A8N-LA. And the PC has a single SATA disk. Neither the integrated video or the addition of a video card correct the problem, and installing a new CMOS battery as well as a new power supply has changed nothing. (There is no case speaker). The power cables are secure and there are no bulging or leaking caps on the motherboard and the original owner only said that the PC was sluggish, so I expected it to work. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. A general approach, is to simplify the setup (remove everything that could upset the computer, until only the essentials are present). Then, do a "beep" test. If you fully remove power, pull the memory DIMMs, then power up, the motherboard should beep the computer case speaker. This assumes the tiny case speaker was always hooked up, and you know it is wired correctly. With the memory removed, the CPU can still read the BIOS chip. It does a check for the existence of DIMM memory, and when finding none, it beeps the computer speaker in a repetitive pattern. Three beeps, silence, three beeps, silence, and so on. Hearing the beep tells you the CPU chip is getting power, and most (but not necessarily all) chips on the motherboard are working. If the computer fails to beep, after the RAM was carefully removed (with all power off), then that tells you the CPU isn't seated properly, the CPU ATX 2x2 power cable isn't connected, or the motherboard has a problem powering the CPU. Or, the BIOS chip is corrupted in some way (bricked). Those are examples of possible failures to do anything. The CPU in the picture here, has a metal top, so it should be relatively safe to remove the cooler on top and inspect. With the power off, you can remove the cooler, re-seat the CPU (using the ZIF lever). Apply fresh thermal paste and reassemble. http://s368.photobucket.com/user/whi...ed11c.jpg.html Paul Yes, but like I mentioned the case does not have a speaker. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#13
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Wednesday, May 13, 2015 at 11:53:16 PM UTC-4, Paul wrote: wrote: Update: The Power supply and CPU fans spin and the heat sinks are secure. I have tried two different working monitors and tapping the power button does not result in the PC turning off. (I have to leave my finger on the button). The monitor light does not even come on anymore when I power on. The motherboard is an ASUS A8N-LA. And the PC has a single SATA disk. Neither the integrated video or the addition of a video card correct the problem, and installing a new CMOS battery as well as a new power supply has changed nothing. (There is no case speaker). The power cables are secure and there are no bulging or leaking caps on the motherboard and the original owner only said that the PC was sluggish, so I expected it to work. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. A general approach, is to simplify the setup (remove everything that could upset the computer, until only the essentials are present). Then, do a "beep" test. If you fully remove power, pull the memory DIMMs, then power up, the motherboard should beep the computer case speaker. This assumes the tiny case speaker was always hooked up, and you know it is wired correctly. With the memory removed, the CPU can still read the BIOS chip. It does a check for the existence of DIMM memory, and when finding none, it beeps the computer speaker in a repetitive pattern. Three beeps, silence, three beeps, silence, and so on. Hearing the beep tells you the CPU chip is getting power, and most (but not necessarily all) chips on the motherboard are working. If the computer fails to beep, after the RAM was carefully removed (with all power off), then that tells you the CPU isn't seated properly, the CPU ATX 2x2 power cable isn't connected, or the motherboard has a problem powering the CPU. Or, the BIOS chip is corrupted in some way (bricked). Those are examples of possible failures to do anything. The CPU in the picture here, has a metal top, so it should be relatively safe to remove the cooler on top and inspect. With the power off, you can remove the cooler, re-seat the CPU (using the ZIF lever). Apply fresh thermal paste and reassemble. http://s368.photobucket.com/user/whi...ed11c.jpg.html Paul Yes, but like I mentioned the case does not have a speaker. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. A motherboard can have a black disc (a piezoelectric speaker) right on the motherboard surface. Otherwise, there will be a header with the letters "SPKR" next to it. Check your motherboard manual/documentation, to help you find it. In a pinch, you can connect alternative devices to the header. If you have an eight ohm speaker from some old car you owned, you could *carefully* connect that to the header. Or, visit the local computer store and ask if you could buy one from them. A piezo speaker, with 1x4 header. Notice in the available pictures, if you turn over the 1x4, it has tabs you can lift, to change the pin spacing. For example, on an HP, you want a 1x2 pin spacing, whereas on an Asus, you'd use the default 1x4 spacing. http://www.amazon.com/Apevia-APEVIA-.../dp/B00BBJDNCG For the same price, you can get a traditional case speaker to connect to SPKR pins. Same 1x4 spacing. In this case, I was not able to present a sales link, since the vendor of this item pulled a bait and switch. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...XL._AA160_.jpg There's got to be some kind of annunciator capability. Paul |
#14
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No Video from PC
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 12:21:13 AM UTC-4, Paul wrote:
Michael Black wrote: On Thu, 10 Jul 2014, Stewart wrote: wrote in message ... I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. No "beeps" from the PC speaker during POST? Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Michael It's true there are boutique computer cases that don't come with a speaker. But you can add one later. A retail motherboard should have SPKR pins to drive it. I would not buy a case without a speaker. As the beep test has some value to me. Paul I finally found a diagram of the motherboard online. http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c00683218 There is a connection labled "F.AUDIO1" and it has a lead that connects to the headphone jack on the front of the computer. So guess I just have to plug in some headphones. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#15
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 12:21:13 AM UTC-4, Paul wrote: Michael Black wrote: On Thu, 10 Jul 2014, Stewart wrote: wrote in message ... I have a Compaq Presario SR1910NX. When I attempt to boot up the monitor's "on" light briefly comes on abefore going off, but I don't get any activity on the monitor's screen. It makes no difference whether or not I use a video card or the embedded video connection on the motherboard. Can I assume thios means the motherboard is toast and I should just cannibalized the system? Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New Y9ork. No "beeps" from the PC speaker during POST? Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Michael It's true there are boutique computer cases that don't come with a speaker. But you can add one later. A retail motherboard should have SPKR pins to drive it. I would not buy a case without a speaker. As the beep test has some value to me. Paul I finally found a diagram of the motherboard online. http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c00683218 There is a connection labled "F.AUDIO1" and it has a lead that connects to the headphone jack on the front of the computer. So guess I just have to plug in some headphones. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. Realtek ALC883 8-channel High Definition Audio CODEC You would expect the five pin pattern to work. Even though it is an HDAudio chip, it can use the legacy audio wiring pattern. Some BIOS setups screens, even have a tick box item to select the wiring pattern type. Hardly any HDAudio setups have the proper jack sense using side-contact switches located in the barrel of each audio connector. And then the first of these two patterns is used. For headphones only, you could for example, make a three wire cable consisting of Lineout_L, Lineout_R, AGND, and wire to Tip/Ring/Sleeve of a 1/8" audio jack. If the computer has the "right" cabling, then there will be a 2x5 shroud, but with five wires inserted into it. Two wires for stereo microphone, two wires for the stereo headphones, one shared analog ground. Legacy MIC_L X X AGND AC97 pinout MIC_R X X NC LineOut_R X X NC NC X X (missing pin) Lineout_L X X NC HDAudio MIC_L X X AGND Pinout MIC_R X X NC Definition LineOut_R X X SENSE1_Return SENSE_SEND X X (missing pin) Lineout_L X X SENSE2_Return In the case of the HDAudio setup, the situation is similar, in that five wires define the bit the user cares about. The three SENSE pins are for resistor ladders that allow two pins to sense up to eight jack closures. If the provided wiring harness has more than five wires in it, then that would explain what they're doing. That they spent the extra money on side contact switches used for jack sensing. The presence of a plug in the jack barrel, causes the switch to close. The resistor ladder encodes the switch closure, for readout inside the HDAudio chip. They go to all that extra trouble, so that eight switches can be sensed by just two pins on the chip. The chip uses ADC converters (crude ones) to detect how many switches are closed. Figure 2 here, shows how one of the two SENSE trees works. The HDAudio set of three pins, is enough to allow two of the four switches to be connected, from the front panel wiring. And that's only if the intention is to support full front panel audio wiring. http://application-notes.digchip.com/007/7-11940.pdf Other chips, like my Analog Devices "SoundMax", use an actual impedance sensing method on each jack. They insert a ~22KHz analog tone on the connector for a short time, and measure the current flow, as a means to tell if an electrical load is present. But the RealTek chips lack this feature. So on RealTek, if the resistor ladder is not implemented, the chip may not be able to detect when stuff is plugged in. Note that, years ago, you may remember two blue colored jumper plugs being present on the 2x5 audio connector. On a motherboard of the vintage you're using now (A8N-LA), the blue jumper plugs are no longer used. Do not insert them when not using the audio wiring. It probably doesn't hurt anything, but the purpose of those jumper plugs, the wiring isn't there to make them do anything. Back in "pure" AC'97 days, the lime green LineOut on the back of the computer, served both the rear speakers and the front headphone jacks. And some clever wiring was installed to do both. The blue jumpers, covered the case where the front panel wiring was disconnected and there was no longer continuity to the rear Lineout speaker jack. Using the blue jumpers, puts the rear speaker signal back in place. However, on your "new generation" motherboard, every jack has its own DAC for output. So the front panel headphones don't need any clever wiring tricks. They have private output signals. The rear LineOut speakers have private signals as well. No blue jumpers are needed, because the two outputs are now entirely separate from one another. Conclusion: 1) A three wire (home made) cable is the minimum you could use. A five wire cable and 2x5 connector may be installed in the HP box as part of the case wiring. 2) Jack sense may or may not work. It's RealTek, so don't be surprised if the jack cannot be sensed. I had some other motherboard here, I wasted hours playing with the thing, until I found some meek documentation that mentions "oh, by the way, we cannot detect plug in jack". Twits. Maybe it'll work, but don't be surprised if there is no automation present. You have a better chance at jack sense, if more than five wires are on the audio harness. HTH, Paul |
#16
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No Video from PC
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote:
On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#17
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul |
#18
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No Video from PC
On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 12:58:26 -0800 (PST),
wrote: So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris That was awhile ago: in some, but not all, ways, my memory is perfect, or akin...and so I do remember. How are you and I hope you're doing well. Could be a couple things: 1, of one) you'll perhaps discover through a non-terminal intermittency, through related repetition, to fix it, or 2) the intermittency is destructive, less a measure from an outside entropic agent, by a destructive reagent of specific failure, internally and critically allied to the system and specific to the MB construction. The chances of the latter would be less significantly be allied to reveal a cause for repair, from what your observing, whereas an uncertain chance of booting, if at all remotely related to the former instance, is less apt to concur as an error report caused by an outside agent. You may test a used PS for good. You may also buy a known brand and decent PS new and not. I like to keep such a PS around, tested for good or likely so to be and moreover assumed for new, as a spare. In fact, I saw it last month on a sale, marked down from $30+/US to $15 on the manufacturer website. They manufacturer boldly claimed he even wanted to ship it to me for free. But they effectively killed the deal to prove they should stick to making reputable power supplies, and not spread their intelligence too sparsely to otherwise be of much use. Their WEB engineer designed their site page link to direct marketing, inventory and charge transaction, such to not add the $15US PS I wanted, marked down from $30+, to a one-click "basket" for signaling my intention to pay money for processing and shipping. Which is why people who know the difference, between their front and mid-lower back extremities, market from a decent platform, such as Ebay or Amazon, as one intended to provide services, a sense of seriousness to itself, not to drive away customers through unpleasantness or ulterior motives incorporated into browser standards. Those provisional beeps, after all, may be only so few to specify and relay five instances of sequence codes. Very "generically" and modularly regarded, when, as you say, the PS doesn't spin up and the computer is logically regarding itself for an effective electrical open. Well and enough. I want coffee and my Italian manual lever espresso machine, the wires to the boiler shorted and blew up rather loudly this morning. The electrical outlet cord dropped off the appliances, enough to scorch a countertop Formica covering and reassert to instill a certain destructive reverence for electrical capacity. Until I rebuild the espresso maker's lower wiring harness, I have an Italian made MokaPot and 900-watt portable burner for a backup. Cheers. |
#19
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No Video from PC
On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 16:58:31 -0500, Paul
wrote: If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. An interesting proposition to a spare AMD quadcore Gigabyte, replaced by an octal Gigabyte. A vague sort of transitional aide, between two operative computers, as a compact build, to magnifying on as a rudimentary VM or developer's platform -- i.e., WINE-to-WindowsXX dependencies being at the very least a focus. As it is, a bare MB, CPU heatsink, and memory, idle poking out from inside a new octal MB box packaging. Gigabyte's leaning longevity and adverse operative environments, nevertheless, could be interesting. Their so-called dual-BIOS I haven't fully plummeted. Intended as a backup, billed as if two physical BIOS MB substructures for redundancy confidence, I've only from the last brevity to note when I engaged it. From the BIOS, I was given a file to name to write to the HDD;- whereupon directly rebooting, either without or perhaps after I'd alter the BIOS, I entered the BIOS to rewrite one, or however many Gigabyte structures are permitted, in order to restore an earlier, valid BIOS state, stored for a binary file, I'd written to a file on a SSD: Gigabyte's BIOS or validity for that file didn't jibe, as I was informed when the BIOS attempted to read the file, that the file I'd written was corrupted. So much for an idea of the battery-less MB I'd imagined;- although certainly overall easier, even with an added stage of loading a BIOS provisional file, despite being freed from being under a battery's thumb, for any degree of an allowable complexity to advanced BIOS settings, than present to a manual means for their replication. |
#20
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No Video from PC
Flasherly wrote:
Well and enough. I want coffee and my Italian manual lever espresso machine, the wires to the boiler shorted and blew up rather loudly this morning. The electrical outlet cord dropped off the appliances, enough to scorch a countertop Formica covering and reassert to instill a certain destructive reverence for electrical capacity. Until I rebuild the espresso maker's lower wiring harness, I have an Italian made MokaPot and 900-watt portable burner for a backup. Cheers. And this teaches us, that "resistance" or "heating" circuits must be welded together for safety, not soldered. My toaster oven was very safe, when it passed away, but all the internal components were made of high temperature metals, and the components were welded together with a spot welder. This makes it impossible for home repair guys to fix it with tin/lead solder and twisting some wires together. The solder can get hot enough in service, to melt and drop off. If you do decide to rewire it, think about all the ways *not* to re-wire it. Wiring low-current loads is a lot easier and (apparently) safer, than high current loads. When I built my stereo amp for my second computer, to run conventional speakers, I placed a cartridge fuse on the AC input. Just for "luck", if you know what I mean. There is not a lot of power there, but there is a potential for Formica-burning mayhem, given an opportunity. Paul |
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