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Printing USB to Parallel
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? |
#2
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Printing USB to Parallel
On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? Sure, there's a chance. I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine. |
#3
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Printing USB to Parallel
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 02:41:02 -0800, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general mike wrote: On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote: I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? Sure, there's a chance. I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine. That's great. I'll try it. It's also sort of good to know they're not selling something with no use. (it wasn't expensive.) First I may try refilling the black cartridge, but I expect sensor problems. I suppose I should fill it before the printer tells me it's empty?? But I still expect sensor problems. Maybe I should see a therapist. |
#4
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Printing USB to Parallel
On 14/01/2016 10:30, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? I have a similar cable which enables a printer with a parallel (Centronics) port to be connected to a computer's USB port. Mine works perfectly well on Windows 7 with an old HP Deskjet printer. The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
#5
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Printing USB to Parallel
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? |
#6
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Printing USB to Parallel
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still use it. |
#7
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Printing USB to Parallel
Micky wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still use it. Back in the old days, the drum was made of glass, and could cost $300 to replace. You should be able to go through many toner cartridges, before the page count gets you into "drum replacement territory". My drum experiences come from a Canon laser with liquid toner. The toner is flammable on those (liquid material is petroleum based). Later laser designs, used a plastic belt to hold the static charge. On some, the belt was a separate item. On others, the belt was a part of the toner cartridge. The idea being, if you scratched that sucker, it meant a much cheaper repair. People sometimes scratch that stuff, while yanking jammed sheets of paper from the printer. On some printers, part of the print path has no release, so you have to yank. You want the printer paper advancement wheels and stuff, to be clean enough that you don't get frequent paper jams. This is easier said than done. I've seen repair techs waste hours cleaning our equipment at work. Even the devices with "vacuum advance" paper handling, eventually even they eventually succumbed to paper dust. No paper handling technology is completely immune to "aging". Good paper handling lasts for maybe two years, before you're "always cleaning it and fiddling with it". On a drum, you replace them when there is a "blemish" in the same place on each print. It wouldn't necessarily be a "black level" problem. It would be a "scratch" in the print, perhaps. The laser printer works by "drawing" a pattern on a photosensitive drum or belt. The surface holds a static charge, The static charge is removed in places you don't want toner. The toner is "attracted" to the drum or belt. As the sheet of paper makes contact with the drum, the "fuser" melts the toner particles so they adhere to the paper. If your fuser isn't working, you will find the black toner on the paper smudges and comes off on your fingers. In isolation, a single toner particle behaves well to a single charged spot on the drum or belt. When you try to define an "all-black" area, now the toner particles see the electrostatic behavior of their neighbors. A non-uniform toner coating can result. This causes "blotches" in the toner transferred to the paper. You don't get a uniform black. As a result, you should try to avoid creating "all black images" for a B&W laser printout. Printing text should work fine. Toner comes in various grades. There are regular toners and "fine" toners. Perhaps if you're buying "refills", they don't have the same consistency as a branded product. You would need a good microscope to see the difference. What you see in the print, "tells you a story". Paul |
#8
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Printing USB to Parallel
From: "Micky"
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 02:41:02 -0800, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general mike wrote: On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote: I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? Sure, there's a chance. I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine. That's great. I'll try it. It's also sort of good to know they're not selling something with no use. (it wasn't expensive.) snip It depends on who manufacturers it. Some embedded chip-sets don't work as well as other. -- Dave Multi-AV Scanning Tool - http://multi-av.thespykiller.co.uk http://www.pctipp.ch/downloads/dl/35905.asp |
#9
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Printing USB to Parallel
I have a generic USB to parallel port cable I use with my Windows 7 Pro
laptop and a HP r80xi printer I purchased in 2000 so it is pretty old and I am waiting for the day I can no longer buy ink cartridges for it. The only advice I have is plug in the cable into computer before you turn on the printer. Of course I do not leave it attached to the laptop which gets moved around. -- Bill Brought to you from Anchorage, Alaska "Micky" wrote in message ... I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? |
#10
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Printing USB to Parallel
JJ wrote on 2016/01/14:
Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? http://computer.howstuffworks.com/laser-printer.htm How old is the laser printer? Have you ever cleaned the corona wire? Use an ear swab wetted with isopropyl alcohol to *gently* glide across the corona wire on all sides (that you can reach). The printer's manual should tell you about corona wire maintenance. http://www.inktechnologies.com/blog/...-corona-wires/ The "tool" in a slider built into the drum housing, if it has one. Back a long time ago when I had a laser printer, they didn't have this. I could see the corona wire (probably had to remove the toner cartridge) and had to clean it by hand. If you use a swab, don't have it so wet that it drips alcohol into the drum housing; else, you'll have to let it dry out for a long time (only applies if the wire is enclosed). You can see how some folks show cleaning the wire at: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...or ona%20wire The inbuilt wire cleaning "tool" might not be all that effective. It scraps the wire but only on a couple sides, and it may skip over some crud that is sternly coated on the wire. If you routinely clean the corona wire (every cartridge change and after some number of pages, like 500 prints) then it may not get so overly coated that the inbuilt cleaning tool would be sufficient. You did not mention brand and model so just generic help can be given to you. If you add the brand and model to the search then you might find articles or videos specific to your printer. Another trick I learned long ago when toner looked like it was getting low (faint printing) was to remove the toner cartridge and tip it left and right. Do not shake, just tilt left and right. That will redistribute any toner that is mostly deposited to one side of the cartridge. Printing is often lopsided, especially for text, where the left side of the page has more dense printing than the right side. The static electricity process of creating an image on the drum to transfer to the paper (and then heat the dusting of ink laying on the paper to melt its binder so the ink does stick to the paper) won't work if the drum isn't clean. The fusing is separate from the drum. If the corona wire is coated with filth then the result is the ink doesn't transfer to the paper (static charge is weak). So, again, make sure the corona wire is cleaned every time you replace the toner or when there is faint printing. Doesn't the printer manual provide some troubleshooting and cleaning instructions? You might also need to clean the drum. If the ink is not getting completely getting lifted off to the statically charged paper, well, the ink is left back on the drum. Just like with the wire, use isopropyl alcohol to clean the drum with a lintfree cloth (paper towel would probably be too abrasive and the soft paper towels leave lint). Eyeglass lens cleaning *cloths* are probably okay (not those alcohol soaked paper wipes in a tear open packet). Don't expect to reuse the cleaning cloth as it will be soiled with ink that you cleaned off the drum. You can get 99% isopropyl alcohol at a pharmacy (most grocery stores only have the 70% stuff). Do NOT use rubbing alcohol, wood alcohol, or methanol. Those leave behind a residue. |
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