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Printing USB to Parallel



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 14th 16, 11:30 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?
  #2  
Old January 14th 16, 11:41 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
mike
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 75
Default Printing USB to Parallel

On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?

Sure, there's a chance.
I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine.
  #3  
Old January 14th 16, 11:50 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 02:41:02 -0800, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general mike wrote:

On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?

Sure, there's a chance.
I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine.


That's great. I'll try it.

It's also sort of good to know they're not selling something with no
use. (it wasn't expensive.)

First I may try refilling the black cartridge, but I expect sensor
problems. I suppose I should fill it before the printer tells me
it's empty??

But I still expect sensor problems. Maybe I should see a therapist.
  #4  
Old January 14th 16, 12:34 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Roger Mills[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Printing USB to Parallel

On 14/01/2016 10:30, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?


I have a similar cable which enables a printer with a parallel
(Centronics) port to be connected to a computer's USB port. Mine works
perfectly well on Windows 7 with an old HP Deskjet printer.

The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you
have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.
  #5  
Old January 14th 16, 02:26 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
JJ
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 15
Default Printing USB to Parallel

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.


Expired toner? Is that possible?
  #6  
Old January 14th 16, 02:40 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.


Expired toner? Is that possible?


Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an
expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still
use it.
  #7  
Old January 14th 16, 05:27 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Paul
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Posts: 13,364
Default Printing USB to Parallel

Micky wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.

Expired toner? Is that possible?


Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an
expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still
use it.


Back in the old days, the drum was made of glass,
and could cost $300 to replace. You should be
able to go through many toner cartridges, before
the page count gets you into "drum replacement territory".
My drum experiences come from a Canon laser with
liquid toner. The toner is flammable on those
(liquid material is petroleum based).

Later laser designs, used a plastic belt to hold the
static charge. On some, the belt was a separate item.
On others, the belt was a part of the toner cartridge.
The idea being, if you scratched that sucker, it meant
a much cheaper repair.

People sometimes scratch that stuff, while yanking
jammed sheets of paper from the printer. On some printers,
part of the print path has no release, so you have to yank.
You want the printer paper advancement wheels and stuff, to
be clean enough that you don't get frequent paper jams.
This is easier said than done. I've seen repair techs
waste hours cleaning our equipment at work. Even the
devices with "vacuum advance" paper handling, eventually
even they eventually succumbed to paper dust. No paper
handling technology is completely immune to "aging".
Good paper handling lasts for maybe two years, before
you're "always cleaning it and fiddling with it".

On a drum, you replace them when there is a "blemish"
in the same place on each print. It wouldn't necessarily
be a "black level" problem. It would be a "scratch"
in the print, perhaps.

The laser printer works by "drawing" a pattern on
a photosensitive drum or belt. The surface holds
a static charge, The static charge is removed in
places you don't want toner. The toner is "attracted"
to the drum or belt. As the sheet of paper makes
contact with the drum, the "fuser" melts the toner
particles so they adhere to the paper. If your fuser
isn't working, you will find the black toner on
the paper smudges and comes off on your fingers.

In isolation, a single toner particle behaves well
to a single charged spot on the drum or belt. When
you try to define an "all-black" area, now the
toner particles see the electrostatic behavior of
their neighbors. A non-uniform toner coating
can result. This causes "blotches" in the toner
transferred to the paper. You don't get a uniform
black. As a result, you should try to avoid creating
"all black images" for a B&W laser printout. Printing
text should work fine.

Toner comes in various grades. There are regular
toners and "fine" toners. Perhaps if you're buying
"refills", they don't have the same consistency
as a branded product. You would need a good microscope
to see the difference.

What you see in the print, "tells you a story".

Paul
  #8  
Old January 14th 16, 07:47 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
David H. Lipman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 408
Default Printing USB to Parallel

From: "Micky"

[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 02:41:02 -0800, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general mike wrote:

On 1/14/2016 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?

Sure, there's a chance.
I use a similar Belkin one on win7 to a laserjet 4mp. Works fine.


That's great. I'll try it.

It's also sort of good to know they're not selling something with no
use. (it wasn't expensive.)


snip

It depends on who manufacturers it. Some embedded chip-sets don't work as
well as other.

--
Dave
Multi-AV Scanning Tool - http://multi-av.thespykiller.co.uk
http://www.pctipp.ch/downloads/dl/35905.asp

  #9  
Old January 14th 16, 08:44 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Bill Bradshaw
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Posts: 68
Default Printing USB to Parallel

I have a generic USB to parallel port cable I use with my Windows 7 Pro
laptop and a HP r80xi printer I purchased in 2000 so it is pretty old and I
am waiting for the day I can no longer buy ink cartridges for it. The only
advice I have is plug in the cable into computer before you turn on the
printer. Of course I do not leave it attached to the laptop which gets
moved around.
--
Bill

Brought to you from Anchorage, Alaska

"Micky" wrote in message
...
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?



  #10  
Old January 14th 16, 09:09 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
VanguardLH[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,453
Default Printing USB to Parallel

JJ wrote on 2016/01/14:

Roger Mills wrote:

Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer
itself, and nothing to do with the cable.


Expired toner? Is that possible?


http://computer.howstuffworks.com/laser-printer.htm

How old is the laser printer? Have you ever cleaned the corona wire?
Use an ear swab wetted with isopropyl alcohol to *gently* glide across
the corona wire on all sides (that you can reach). The printer's manual
should tell you about corona wire maintenance.

http://www.inktechnologies.com/blog/...-corona-wires/

The "tool" in a slider built into the drum housing, if it has one. Back
a long time ago when I had a laser printer, they didn't have this. I
could see the corona wire (probably had to remove the toner cartridge)
and had to clean it by hand. If you use a swab, don't have it so wet
that it drips alcohol into the drum housing; else, you'll have to let it
dry out for a long time (only applies if the wire is enclosed). You can
see how some folks show cleaning the wire at:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...or ona%20wire

The inbuilt wire cleaning "tool" might not be all that effective. It
scraps the wire but only on a couple sides, and it may skip over some
crud that is sternly coated on the wire. If you routinely clean the
corona wire (every cartridge change and after some number of pages, like
500 prints) then it may not get so overly coated that the inbuilt
cleaning tool would be sufficient.

You did not mention brand and model so just generic help can be given to
you. If you add the brand and model to the search then you might find
articles or videos specific to your printer.

Another trick I learned long ago when toner looked like it was getting
low (faint printing) was to remove the toner cartridge and tip it left
and right. Do not shake, just tilt left and right. That will
redistribute any toner that is mostly deposited to one side of the
cartridge. Printing is often lopsided, especially for text, where the
left side of the page has more dense printing than the right side.

The static electricity process of creating an image on the drum to
transfer to the paper (and then heat the dusting of ink laying on the
paper to melt its binder so the ink does stick to the paper) won't work
if the drum isn't clean. The fusing is separate from the drum. If the
corona wire is coated with filth then the result is the ink doesn't
transfer to the paper (static charge is weak). So, again, make sure the
corona wire is cleaned every time you replace the toner or when there is
faint printing.

Doesn't the printer manual provide some troubleshooting and cleaning
instructions? You might also need to clean the drum. If the ink is not
getting completely getting lifted off to the statically charged paper,
well, the ink is left back on the drum. Just like with the wire, use
isopropyl alcohol to clean the drum with a lintfree cloth (paper towel
would probably be too abrasive and the soft paper towels leave lint).
Eyeglass lens cleaning *cloths* are probably okay (not those alcohol
soaked paper wipes in a tear open packet). Don't expect to reuse the
cleaning cloth as it will be soiled with ink that you cleaned off the
drum.

You can get 99% isopropyl alcohol at a pharmacy (most grocery stores
only have the 70% stuff). Do NOT use rubbing alcohol, wood alcohol, or
methanol. Those leave behind a residue.
 




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