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Apparent PSU problem
I have an older extra PC (ASUS H97M Plus motherboard - i3-4150 CPU - 12GB Kingston
HyperX DDR3-1600 RAM) that I use for Windows 10 Insider Preview beta builds. It has a PS/2 keyboard that I've been using to start the system (CTRL+ESC). That start method stopped working a couple of weeks ago and I had to resort to the start button. That started failing and now won't start at all. I connected the power supply to a tester that showed all power levels OK, but the PG indicator was dim and blinking off occasionally. That was sufficient to cause me to order another PSU (Thermaltake TR2 430W since I'm using onboard graphics and don't have to power a GPU). The old one in the system is an Antec TRU 430 that has to be at least 14 or 15 years old. Is there anything else I should have checked before deciding the PSU was the culprit? Other than the recent start problems, everything else has been working well as usual. Larc |
#2
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Apparent PSU problem
Larc wrote:
I have an older extra PC (ASUS H97M Plus motherboard - i3-4150 CPU - 12GB Kingston HyperX DDR3-1600 RAM) that I use for Windows 10 Insider Preview beta builds. It has a PS/2 keyboard that I've been using to start the system (CTRL+ESC). That start method stopped working a couple of weeks ago and I had to resort to the start button. That started failing and now won't start at all. I connected the power supply to a tester that showed all power levels OK, but the PG indicator was dim and blinking off occasionally. That was sufficient to cause me to order another PSU (Thermaltake TR2 430W since I'm using onboard graphics and don't have to power a GPU). The old one in the system is an Antec TRU 430 that has to be at least 14 or 15 years old. Is there anything else I should have checked before deciding the PSU was the culprit? Other than the recent start problems, everything else has been working well as usual. Larc Sorry, what does PG stand for? Since you said all power levels were okay, I'm not sure what a new one is going to do better. You know how to do what the start button does directly on the motherboard with a screw driver, or other tool, don't you? I assume you tried that too. Next, I would look at the owners manual for the motherboard and see what a blinking PG indicates. Sorry, I am not an expert. Good luck! |
#3
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Apparent PSU problem
On Sat, 19 Sep 2020 15:50:22 -0400, Bill wrote:
| Sorry, what does PG stand for? Since you said all power levels were | okay, I'm not sure what a new one is going to do better. You know how | to do what the start button does directly on the motherboard with a | screw driver, or other tool, don't you? I assume you tried that too. | Next, I would look at the owners manual for the motherboard and see what | a blinking PG indicates. Sorry, I am not an expert. Good luck! PG=Power Good. It's an indicator that all power levels (+12V, +5V and +3.3V) are at their correct output values. Under voltage protection kicks in and prevents the PSU from turning on if there's any variation. This explains it more fully: https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/ever...protections/2/ Here is one part that explains the need for a PG reading to be OK before a computer will start: "... the under voltage protection shuts down the power supply if the outputs have a voltage below a certain level. If the UVP is active when the power supply is first turned on, the power supply would never turn on, because voltages are below the UVP trigger point. In other words, because when you first turn on the power supply voltages are below their values for a fraction of second, the UVP would prevent the power supply from being turned on." The PSU not coming on when UVP is active is a PC thing. When the PSU is connected to a tester instead, it will come on even if there are problems. I'm at least 90% sure the PSU is the sole problem here, but just wanted some input from wiser, although likely not grayer, heads if there could be something I've overlooked. Larc |
#4
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Apparent PSU problem
On 2020-09-19 4:13 p.m., Larc wrote:
On Sat, 19 Sep 2020 15:50:22 -0400, Bill wrote: | Sorry, what does PG stand for? Since you said all power levels were | okay, I'm not sure what a new one is going to do better. You know how | to do what the start button does directly on the motherboard with a | screw driver, or other tool, don't you? I assume you tried that too. | Next, I would look at the owners manual for the motherboard and see what | a blinking PG indicates. Sorry, I am not an expert. Good luck! PG=Power Good. It's an indicator that all power levels (+12V, +5V and +3.3V) are at their correct output values. Under voltage protection kicks in and prevents the PSU from turning on if there's any variation. This explains it more fully: https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/ever...protections/2/ Here is one part that explains the need for a PG reading to be OK before a computer will start: "... the under voltage protection shuts down the power supply if the outputs have a voltage below a certain level. If the UVP is active when the power supply is first turned on, the power supply would never turn on, because voltages are below the UVP trigger point. In other words, because when you first turn on the power supply voltages are below their values for a fraction of second, the UVP would prevent the power supply from being turned on." The PSU not coming on when UVP is active is a PC thing. When the PSU is connected to a tester instead, it will come on even if there are problems. I'm at least 90% sure the PSU is the sole problem here, but just wanted some input from wiser, although likely not grayer, heads if there could be something I've overlooked. Larc If the PG line, pin 8 was blinking or dim, that would be ample reason to change out the PSU for a new one, I believe you are doing the right thing. Rene |
#5
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Apparent PSU problem
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2020-09-19 4:13 p.m., Larc wrote: On Sat, 19 Sep 2020 15:50:22 -0400, Bill wrote: | Sorry, what does PG stand for? Since you said all power levels were | okay, I'm not sure what a new one is going to do better. You know how | to do what the start button does directly on the motherboard with a | screw driver, or other tool, don't you? I assume you tried that too. | Next, I would look at the owners manual for the motherboard and see what | a blinking PG indicates. Sorry, I am not an expert. Good luck! PG=Power Good. It's an indicator that all power levels (+12V, +5V and +3.3V) are at their correct output values. Under voltage protection kicks in and prevents the PSU from turning on if there's any variation. This explains it more fully: https://www.hardwaresecrets.com/ever...protections/2/ Here is one part that explains the need for a PG reading to be OK before a computer will start: "... the under voltage protection shuts down the power supply if the outputs have a voltage below a certain level. If the UVP is active when the power supply is first turned on, the power supply would never turn on, because voltages are below the UVP trigger point. In other words, because when you first turn on the power supply voltages are below their values for a fraction of second, the UVP would prevent the power supply from being turned on." The PSU not coming on when UVP is active is a PC thing. When the PSU is connected to a tester instead, it will come on even if there are problems. I'm at least 90% sure the PSU is the sole problem here, but just wanted some input from wiser, although likely not grayer, heads if there could be something I've overlooked. Larc If the PG line, pin 8 was blinking or dim, that would be ample reason to change out the PSU for a new one, I believe you are doing the right thing. Rene The 5V is probably low on it. One of my Antecs, it was the +5V output caps that let out the magic smoke. Other threads mentioned measuring +5V and finding it abnormally low. If it gets too far out of spec, eventually it could cause PowerGood to flip state. There are *three* Antecs in the junk room, but none is an exact match for the OPs one. They're all likely to be ChannelWell builds. The transformer inside will have "CWT" stamped on the transformer or similar. There were four caps on mine, split on the top, with orange-brown juice coming out. One of those Antecs has a funny flaw - the output is fine, but on the primary side, the PSU puts "noise on mains", which other appliances can sense to their detriment. It can cause my ADSL2 modem to lose sync at 9PM in the evening. So that PSU earned a membership card to the Junk Room. Paul |
#6
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Apparent PSU problem
On Sat, 19 Sep 2020 23:37:39 -0400, Paul
wrote: If the PG line, pin 8 was blinking or dim, that would be ample reason to change out the PSU for a new one, I believe you are doing the right thing. +1 I don't know about the current state of things but it used to be that because a psu tested ok didn't mean that it was ok. I once paid a computer shop £5 to test a psu that had been in a problematic system. It was OK said the shop owner. So I sold it on eBay, fortunately to someone who lived not far away, who put it in his system and found that it wouldn't power up. (Over a few months I had changed everything in that system to try and fix random restarts. The psu was the last item. It hadn't been a cheap one, either.) |
#7
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Apparent PSU problem
On Sun, 20 Sep 2020 18:34:48 +0100, Peter Johnson wrote:
| On Sat, 19 Sep 2020 23:37:39 -0400, Paul | wrote: | | | | If the PG line, pin 8 was blinking or dim, that would be ample reason | to change out the PSU for a new one, I believe you are doing the right | thing. | | | +1 | | I don't know about the current state of things but it used to be that | because a psu tested ok didn't mean that it was ok. I once paid a | computer shop £5 to test a psu that had been in a problematic system. | It was OK said the shop owner. So I sold it on eBay, fortunately to | someone who lived not far away, who put it in his system and found | that it wouldn't power up. (Over a few months I had changed everything | in that system to try and fix random restarts. The psu was the last | item. It hadn't been a cheap one, either.) If power output level is dropping randomly as happened with my problem PSU, it is possible one could test OK on a check and then fail in a later check or application. I hate that. If a PSU is going, I prefer absolute failure. Then there's no doubt. Larc |
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