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#1
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Water cooling?
This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working?
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#2
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Water cooling?
On 15/08/2013 10:47 PM, Davej wrote:
This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? Depends on the CPU you wanna put it on... -- @~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you! /( _ )\ (Fedora 19 i686) Linux 3.10.6-200.fc19.i686 ^ ^ 22:57:01 up 5:03 0 users load average: 0.00 0.01 0.05 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa |
#3
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Water cooling?
Davej wrote:
This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? If you water cool the CPU, you don't need any protection. The CPU has THERMTRIP, at about 20C above the throttle temperature. Both Intel and AMD has THERMTRIP. It shuts off the power to the computer instantly, once the threshold temperature is surpassed. And it's supposed to cut off, before the CPU is damaged. It's when you extend the water cooling loop, that you can get in trouble. If you remove the video card fan cooler, and replace the cooling with a water block, the card can overheat, and the card can't defend itself. In which case, you'd want some means to monitor flow, surface temperature, or whatever. The GPU does have a thermal diode, and you can get programs such as GPUZ which monitor temperature in real time. I don't think GPUZ shuts down the computer though. The nice thing about THERMTRIP, is it is hardware based, and nothing can stop it from killing the power. (Only an on-purpose short of PS_ON# to ground, will defeat THERMTRIP and allow the computer to burn up the CPU. As long as PS_ON# is not modified, the computer is protected against severe CPU overheating.) Paul |
#4
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Water cooling?
On Thu, 15 Aug 2013 07:47:14 -0700 (PDT), Davej
wrote: This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? - I've seen self contained water units for the price of higher priced, better airflow CPU heatsink setups;- when on sale, it's closer for water units to bluring the distinction of available options. A few steps up, I'd imagine, from an integrated unit to compare by larger resevoir water units costing x4 more, so far as heat efficiency returns equate. Which begs the question of applicability and real time benefits to be derived. Personally, I've never cared for the thought of water running over a MB and components. Something I can get by with, as my early 2.6Ghz P4 dual core runs 12F degrees less than one real scorcher of a summer here, that can see 91F ambient when leaving the house without the AC running (the HDs reach 110-115F). |
#5
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Water cooling?
On Thursday, August 15, 2013, Flasherly wrote:
On 15 Aug 2013, Davej wrote: This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? I've seen self contained water units for the price of higher priced, better airflow CPU heatsink setups;- when on sale, it's closer for water units to bluring the distinction of available options. A few steps up, I'd imagine, from an integrated unit to compare by larger resevoir water units costing x4 more, so far as heat efficiency returns equate. Which begs the question of applicability and real time benefits to be derived. Personally, I've never cared for the thought of water running over a MB and components. Something I can get by with, as my early 2.6Ghz P4 dual core runs 12F degrees less than one real scorcher of a summer here, that can see 91F ambient when leaving the house without the AC running (the HDs reach 110-115F). Well, my old Dual-Core has always run hot, and even adding a massive Cooler-Master only helped a little. The unit is up in the attic where it does get rather hot. On my next build I think a water block would make more sense for the cpu. The rest of it can use fans. I'm certainly not going to disassemble a new video card and play joe-the-plumber with it. Except for the water block I can probably home-brew the water system. Maybe have it built into a 5 gallon bucket under the table. |
#6
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Water cooling?
Davej wrote:
On Thursday, August 15, 2013, Flasherly wrote: On 15 Aug 2013, Davej wrote: This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? I've seen self contained water units for the price of higher priced, better airflow CPU heatsink setups;- when on sale, it's closer for water units to bluring the distinction of available options. A few steps up, I'd imagine, from an integrated unit to compare by larger resevoir water units costing x4 more, so far as heat efficiency returns equate. Which begs the question of applicability and real time benefits to be derived. Personally, I've never cared for the thought of water running over a MB and components. Something I can get by with, as my early 2.6Ghz P4 dual core runs 12F degrees less than one real scorcher of a summer here, that can see 91F ambient when leaving the house without the AC running (the HDs reach 110-115F). Well, my old Dual-Core has always run hot, and even adding a massive Cooler-Master only helped a little. The unit is up in the attic where it does get rather hot. On my next build I think a water block would make more sense for the cpu. The rest of it can use fans. I'm certainly not going to disassemble a new video card and play joe-the-plumber with it. Except for the water block I can probably home-brew the water system. Maybe have it built into a 5 gallon bucket under the table. If the system is in an attic space, doesn't that pretty well guarantee you're going to exceed the acceptable ambient range ? I have an older computer here, where I think they specified the ambient as no more than 35C to 40C or so. The best PCs I've heard of (commercial ones), were rated for 50C ambient. We used to use one of those (an HP) in our thermal chamber during testing. I couldn't believe the punishment it would take. If you were to use water, you'd want some way to mount the radiator/fan assembly, in a cooler part of the house, to provide some place to dump the heat. A water cooling system can "move" heat, but if the attic space is blazing hot, the PC can't be cooled below that ambient temperature. Moving the radiator to a cool part of the house, and running long, larger diameter hoses, might give a better delta_T to work with. They used to make PCs with a "refrigerator" in the base of the PC. One of our thermal engineers had a computer like that at his desk (possibly, as a joke). I think in testing, the compressor in those things is so weak, it can push the case air temperature, only 1 degree C below ambient, while pumping another couple hundred watts of heat into the adjoining space. That's an example of an attempt at sub-ambient cooling. Another way to do this, is to use a low-power Haswell version of processor in the next build. One of the lower-clocked ones may provide a boost over your current CPU, but with less heat. The pricing on these is terrible. A two core, with Hyperthreading 35W. http://ark.intel.com/products/75045/...up-to-3_60-GHz The quad core is 45W. No Hyperthreading. This is probably at least 50% faster on multithreaded applications (if movie editing and doing final video render). And it's only a few dollars more than the 35W one. http://ark.intel.com/products/75050/...up-to-3_30-GHz Those would be examples of "attic space" CPUs. Those CPUs have a GPU inside, so you need no video card (unless you're a gamer). If you're building a file server for the attic, the 35W processor would be ideal. Then all you have to worry about, is the temperature of the hard drives. You want hard drives with known-good operating temperature characteristics. The processor only draws 35W, when flat out. When idle, the power will be a lot lower. As far as I know, the Haswell LGA1150 has its own Vcore regulator controls right inside the CPU, which is a departure from previous generations. The processor is then in control of the voltage used to run it, for best power usage. That may provide an advantage from a total system perspective. I haven't run into any articles yet, for those binned processors, as I expect they haven't been for sale for that long. A quick check on Newegg, shows they aren't in circulation. Maybe they're all being put in Macintoshes or something. (Apple does that sometimes, buys up production of a couple bins for a few months.) So maybe by the time you're ready to build, those vapor-ware processors will be for sale. I guess you can get them, with some difficulty... http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2323565 Paul |
#7
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Water cooling?
On Fri, 16 Aug 2013 09:07:32 -0700 (PDT), Davej
wrote: On Thursday, August 15, 2013, Flasherly wrote: On 15 Aug 2013, Davej wrote: This is beginning to seem like the way to go for my next big desktop. Any advice? Maybe a flow sensor to plug into the cpu fan socket so that the MB can sense when it isn't working? I've seen self contained water units for the price of higher priced, better airflow CPU heatsink setups;- when on sale, it's closer for water units to bluring the distinction of available options. A few steps up, I'd imagine, from an integrated unit to compare by larger resevoir water units costing x4 more, so far as heat efficiency returns equate. Which begs the question of applicability and real time benefits to be derived. Personally, I've never cared for the thought of water running over a MB and components. Something I can get by with, as my early 2.6Ghz P4 dual core runs 12F degrees less than one real scorcher of a summer here, that can see 91F ambient when leaving the house without the AC running (the HDs reach 110-115F). Well, my old Dual-Core has always run hot, and even adding a massive Cooler-Master only helped a little. The unit is up in the attic where it does get rather hot. On my next build I think a water block would make more sense for the cpu. The rest of it can use fans. I'm certainly not going to disassemble a new video card and play joe-the-plumber with it. Except for the water block I can probably home-brew the water system. Maybe have it built into a 5 gallon bucket under the table. -- Have a AMD 3800 dualcore, or thereabouts, that's also on the hot side, even with a fair-sized or step-up OEM cooler. Perhaps not as big as a Cooler Master on the Intel, which for some reason runs super cool, beyond expectations. Of course, the AMD runs circles around the Intel (sits around 125F when decoding video and processing audio streams simultaneously for normalization). Maybe -- buy a water CPU heatblock, pump and radiator and rig something up. You're going to be looking at a fundamentally decent to good air-cooled CPU with extra attention to case design and fans, otherwise. Rosewill, for change, $30 or so on periodic sales, have some massive placements for fans on their base models (ANTEC clones). What will also make differences is the CPU diecast technology, 60, 40, and present 30 and 20nm technology -- they're not really drawing/displacing near the heat of what I'm running (didn't pay over $20 for either my CPUs, though.) Safe to assume you wouldn't want a quad-core AMD at 125watts in an attic over the hottest Aug temps on record. That also needs be planned for a fire. Fires of course never happen, it's just being better safe than sorry that makes the builder a good builder. |
#8
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Water cooling?
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, and wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!" "Davej" wrote in message ... On Thursday, August 15, 2013, Flasherly wrote: On 15 Aug 2013, Davej wrote: Well, my old Dual-Core has always run hot, and even adding a massive Cooler-Master only helped a little. The unit is up in the attic where it does get rather hot. On my next build I think a water block would make more sense for the cpu. The rest of it can use fans. I'm certainly not going to disassemble a new video card and play joe-the-plumber with it. Except for the water block I can probably home-brew the water system. Maybe have it built into a 5 gallon bucket under the table. It seems to me that the only way to really cool your Computer down to a reasonable temp is to cool down the room it is located in. It will always run at X over ambient room temp no matter what you use to cool the chip...So by lowering the ambient room temp you are lowering the internal case temp which in turn will allow the Cooler to dissipate more heat. How big is that room? maybe what you really need is an AirConditioner peter121 |
#9
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Water cooling?
On Fri, 16 Aug 2013 17:05:18 -0600, "peter"
wrote: Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, and wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!" "Davej" wrote in message ... On Thursday, August 15, 2013, Flasherly wrote: On 15 Aug 2013, Davej wrote: Well, my old Dual-Core has always run hot, and even adding a massive Cooler-Master only helped a little. The unit is up in the attic where it does get rather hot. On my next build I think a water block would make more sense for the cpu. The rest of it can use fans. I'm certainly not going to disassemble a new video card and play joe-the-plumber with it. Except for the water block I can probably home-brew the water system. Maybe have it built into a 5 gallon bucket under the table. It seems to me that the only way to really cool your Computer down to a reasonable temp is to cool down the room it is located in. It will always run at X over ambient room temp no matter what you use to cool the chip...So by lowering the ambient room temp you are lowering the internal case temp which in turn will allow the Cooler to dissipate more heat. How big is that room? maybe what you really need is an AirConditioner Sounds to be true, although I'll have to beg to differ. I've a Cooler Master, (heatwick setup, largely massive radiator fin body with 3 copper pipes into six CPU leads), on a 775 socket P4 dually that'll run lower than the room. I **could** have a misrepresented sensor reading, but the CPU at 5-10F lower than the room is somewhat typical without any processor overhead. Very hot here and the A/C has to really work awhile to get 90F ambient down to to 85F (unless after sunset). The CPU reads close but still below often enough, just not as pronounced, as it is, from a few months ago, when I built it, well before the hottest part of the summer now. Not much of a CPU, anyway, heat wise, it hardly hits 100F, maybe 108F tops, with both cores maxed for intensive processing at 2.60Ghz. ...A little "smoother" than the 3Ghz single core it replaced, perhaps. |
#10
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Water cooling?
On Thursday, August 15, 2013 9:47:14 AM UTC-5, Davej wrote:
[...] Well, the attic is going to begin to cool down once I arrive, but at first it might be 40C. It might make sense to run the liquid elsewhere and have the reservoir elsewhere. |
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