Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w/ 120mm PWM Fan

Put it in last night, replacing the stock, relatively a petite AMD
cooler for an eight-core.

Pretty substantial, nonetheless, for their base EVO model: consisting
of metal backplate, some offset posts for the backplate, and a
cross-member to secure the cooler to four posts. Clip the fan on the
fins and it's ready. Included an extra two clips for optionally
putting on your own extra, in a dual-fan config.

The cross-member screws seem the only problem. Burying them into the
posts, serving to secure the base heatpipe into a mate to the top of
the CPU, there's a fair leeway left over for torque. I went by feel,
what felt to me nice and tight, and not to the end of the thread
travel, probably, within design allowances. It wouldn't presumably
crush and crumble the MB into broken pieces of layer PCB. I'll take
their word on it -- from the included instruction sheets, illustrated
like a comic book without any textual balloons -- and settle for the
results.

Dropped temps about 10 degrees F ambient, with extreme loads showing
15 degrees improvement. Loading a thousand audio codecs, queued and
spread across all eight cores, with the stock cooler, began to level
out at 144 F, though still potentially rising, when I shut it down
after a couple minutes and a quarter or less the way through. Same
thing with the EVO settled down to 130 F, maintained at halfway
through for four minutes. (Also suspect the PWM aspect kicked in and
it was running maybe an eighth faster -- around 2 to 2.5K RPM.)

Also updated all my sensor software. ...Surprised to find my old
quadcore Intel q8200, I'd previously been misreading, actually runs
hotter under the same stress loads, with a very similar cooler, than
the octal.

$25 is worth it, good stuff, which is why Cooler Master pretty much
has the market cornered for the money. Still...$20 on a sale would be
just peachy for that class of cooling. Added assurance and security,
hopefully, for long haul.

On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 17:27:22 -0400, Flasherly
wrote:

Also - it's dead quiet. The stock was of course a smaller and/or more
fan blades and to be expected some audible noise.

For a relatively huge cooler, positioning it's fan next and to feed a
PS in/out array, dual fans, the added CPU heat generated is
immediately noticeably -- as ducted out of the PS and case. Which is
a regular little heater for the summertime, and which the stock cooler
could in no way duplicate. And that's called efficiency.

On 7/11/2017 2:52 PM, Flasherly wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 17:27:22 -0400, Flasherly
wrote:

Also - it's dead quiet. The stock was of course a smaller and/or more
fan blades and to be expected some audible noise.

For a relatively huge cooler, positioning it's fan next and to feed a
PS in/out array, dual fans, the added CPU heat generated is
immediately noticeably -- as ducted out of the PS and case. Which is
a regular little heater for the summertime, and which the stock cooler
could in no way duplicate. And that's called efficiency.


I always try to position the processor fan so that it's output goes
directly towards the case exhaust fan(s). That, and video cards that
also exhaust out of the case make a huge difference in the case temp,
and therefore the CPU and video card temps. I frequently will make
cardboard deflectors or boxes around the heat sources to help the flow
or heat get out ASAP. The other trick I've done with my last few builds
is to install an intake 5" fan at the back of 3 5 1/4" drive slots, with
a foam filter cut and glued into a "W" shape in the drive bays to filter
the air coming in. It keeps the inside of the PC much cleaner, and the
big intake fan can be run slow enough so it is barely audible. If I
start to hear the processor fan speed up in normal usage, it's time to
clean the filter.

On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 21:54:04 -0700, Bob F wrote:

I always try to position the processor fan so that it's output goes
directly towards the case exhaust fan(s). That, and video cards that
also exhaust out of the case make a huge difference in the case temp,
and therefore the CPU and video card temps. I frequently will make
cardboard deflectors or boxes around the heat sources to help the flow
or heat get out ASAP. The other trick I've done with my last few builds
is to install an intake 5" fan at the back of 3 5 1/4" drive slots, with
a foam filter cut and glued into a "W" shape in the drive bays to filter
the air coming in. It keeps the inside of the PC much cleaner, and the
big intake fan can be run slow enough so it is barely audible. If I
start to hear the processor fan speed up in normal usage, it's time to
clean the filter.

Which is why I've gone Joe Slob about the case, removed the side
opposite the MB mounts, to lay the case down sideways. Hot air to an
extent can simply rise out naturally from the case. My latest slob
job, last week, was to take a nibbler and cut through the steel rolls
forming the upper side of the internal (3.5") drive cage, cutting away
the rest of the top plane with steel sheers. The exposed hard drives
are set loosely balanced and unsecured on their sides, although the
front case fan is still placed and blowing on them. Very, much easier
to swap and make new connections. No rear fan at the backplane, as
upper-mounted power supply has both in- an outtake fans. The PS
served absolutely no aerodynamic function until the Cooler Master and
it's large sideway-oriented fan. Purely happenstance that I could
direct that fan from fins directly opposite, through the cooler, and
closely into the intake fan of the PS fan. With as much happenstance
then to be pleasantly surprised, engaging all eight cores under heat
stress, with a thought to put my hand to the back exhaust PS fan and
feel The Heat coming on strong.

There are cases at the other extreme of extreme efficiency. Except
they're not actually cases, but vaguely a tree-limb construct. Open
and exposed mounting for the individual build components. Not really
my thing, hearsay, although I'll hazard something along this ...
https://www.amazon.com/AeroCool-Fram.../dp/B009RRIP86

Once I liked cases, but those days are gone. Now, if I were any more
a slob, I'd put computers together with nails and screws, into
plywood, maybe with some wire from my handy-dandy "safety-wire"
pliers, found in military applications for twisting wire between
securement anchors used on rumbling B52 bombers, C130s, and likely,
I'll hazard, securing down electronic modules within tanks.

Big advantage, obviously, is it's hard to beat for people who can't
seem to keep their hands out of computers, changing, rearranging
parts, or incessantly tweaking them.

Oh, yea. Airfilters. I just stick on the couch crevice tool on to
the vacuum cleaner's detachable hose, along with a small parts brush,
to get at the worst of it. Fans of course would eventually have to
come out to clean them thoroughly. Surrounded by enough audio gear
that looks don't matter no more, stays pretty clean for the most.

The worst thing about that CPU cooler...

It does not work for Intel motherboards even though it is
marketed to do so. Difficult to believe but true.

On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 23:13:28 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

The worst thing about that CPU cooler...

It does not work for Intel motherboards even though it is
marketed to do so. Difficult to believe but true.

Yea, it's got three adjustment notches on the cross-member mating for
the poles passing thru the MB. Both extremes are Intel and the centre
notches are AMD. I'm also using the same model cooler on another
Gigabyte, an Intel 775 MB though. No issues, except same model cooler
is basically the same design when I bought maybe ten years ago.
....Looks exactly the same but dunno what it was called.

I've bought heatsinks back in the 8088 or a little beyond days, so
rough the bottoms, I'd take a plane of glass with rubbing compound
over fine metal sandpaper, and figure-eight polish them up into a
mirror finish. ...Couple degree shaved maybe depending on how you
blow on the compound before making the mate.

Don't be afraid of pliers or a rat-tail file. It may needs some hard
looking at before coaxing. Like my dear ol' shop teacher from high
school would say, 'If banging doesn't do it, curse at that SOB until
it does.'

Flasherly wrote:

John Doe wrote:

The worst thing about that CPU cooler...

It does not work for Intel motherboards even though it is
marketed to do so. Difficult to believe but true.

Don't be afraid of pliers or a rat-tail file.

Exactly. That is what Intel motherboard users are in for.
Modding is great but it should not be necessary.

On Wed, 12 Jul 2017 00:12:40 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

Exactly. That is what Intel motherboard users are in for.
Modding is great but it should not be necessary.

What isn't matching up for you, the holes in the MB aligning to the
cross-member, or are Cooler Master's standoffs not adequate to proper
clearances to work with when tightening it down?

It's otherwise finely spec'd out by millimeters on a factory PDF
schematic to download for the cooler, should there be any uncertainty
with case depth construction or a particular MB component layout. Some
do of course have to give up memory, PCI slots, various access points,
rearrange their assembly order, among various concessions when putting
on aftermarket and oversized coolers.

John Doe wrote:
The worst thing about that CPU cooler...

It does not work for Intel motherboards even though it is
marketed to do so. Difficult to believe but true.

I currently have a Hyper 212 EVO installed on my Gigabyte Z170X-UD3
motherboard. It certainly does work on Intel boards. No modding
required, used only the parts that came in the box.

On Wed, 26 Jul 2017 12:00:18 -0000 (UTC), lifewoutmilk
wrote:

I currently have a Hyper 212 EVO installed on my Gigabyte Z170X-UD3
motherboard. It certainly does work on Intel boards. No modding
required, used only the parts that came in the box.

Also paid 150% more for my Hyper 212 Evo (last month) than this. . .

Cooler Master Hyper T2
(Compact CPU Cooler 9.99 AR @ newegg)

Rebate should be good for should be good for at least a week, maybe
more, although unless mistaken constructed with fewer heatwick tubes.

Rebates, though, I seldom do these days. OK, I suppose, for those who
don't mind an annoyance, to say the least, of unexpected hoops and
tricks often enough involved a rebate. Not quite so simple as rebates
from a decade or two ago.

Another way to say, there would be better than just a good chance it
involved a "cheapening factor" I'd use for updating my systems. I'd
build them on as many rebates as possible, anything to shave buck.
Each edge and corner eventually adding up to incentives to shortly
promote the system for a quick sale, in as much time, hopefully, for
present technological advancements to make it worth my while to start
over. I'd often charge full or non-rebated parts prices for the
extent of my profit.

Probably didn't take that much of advancements, either. To be
truthful, as much as a consummate watch-maker's enchantment, stuffing
cases with twirley, sparkly things that go tick-tock.

Also very happy with my EVO, needless to say.