Abit NF7-s Ver2 Install Problems

Hi,

Okay, so you do things at 2 am that you regret in the cold
light of day. In this case, went to the web site and flashed
using the NF7-S2 image rather than the NF7-SVer2. There, I
thought that would amuse and brighten your day.

Amazingly, it still works, almost. But it won't let me
reflash with the right file as the awdflash utility drops
out with the error message, "Not an AWARD BIOS".

Any thoughts? Any thoughts that don't add to the heap of
things I have been calling myself ever since? There wouldn't
be any other utility or undocumented switches that I could
use to force it to flash?

In the meanwhile it does work well enough to install various
games so I am contenting myslef with killing everything that
moves, until the mood passes..

--

Sue

Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off. You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

--
Ian

IS that an Zalman 7000A Cu ???

As i have one and a NF7-S 2.0 board and REALY want to keep the cooler
as you say its BRILLIANT quiet cools great even at 1500 rpm

And even at top speed is still pretty quiet.

Thanks for the pick was looking for somthing like this to guide me.

How did you cut it what did you use ?


Had the cooler in my old system WAS quiet as, got a Vantec AeroFLow in
my system now with the NF7-S 2.0, that thing said to be quiet IT AINT



Does the cooler push against the caps if so can you push the caps away
alittle ? and does it matter if they touch ?

Thanks for the help man your a lifesaver, the pic has been saved and i
will study it.

Thanks again.




On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:09:26 +0100, "Apollo"
wrote:

Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off. You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

Will it be strong enough to hold the cooler in ?? its a heavy *******
?, i guess as long as you don't throw the pc arround tooo much i would
think so.

Just had a look at the clip and its TINY, i guess ill cut far away and
then try it on the board and file down, try ect nice and slow till i
get a close fit and it aint touching the caps ? thats all iam worried
about the caps it don't touch anything else right ?


Thanks again.



On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:09:26 +0100, "Apollo"
wrote:

Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off. You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

Do you think putting a filed down washer in their would help with the
strengh ?? spread out the stress alittle ??, just to be safer, what do
you think ?

Thanks.

Sorry for all the questions.


On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:09:26 +0100, "Apollo"
wrote:

Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off. You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

You heard anything about Zalam making a clip to fit the NF7-S 2.0 read
it somewhere ? you heard this ?



On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:09:26 +0100, "Apollo"
wrote:

Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off. You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

OCZ Guy wrote:
IS that an Zalman 7000A Cu ???

As i have one and a NF7-S 2.0 board and REALY want to keep the cooler
as you say its BRILLIANT quiet cools great even at 1500 rpm

And even at top speed is still pretty quiet.

Thanks for the pick was looking for somthing like this to guide me.

How did you cut it what did you use ?


I used a dremel with a cutting disk and used this to file it down a little
too.


Had the cooler in my old system WAS quiet as, got a Vantec AeroFLow in
my system now with the NF7-S 2.0, that thing said to be quiet IT AINT
p


Does the cooler push against the caps if so can you push the caps away
alittle ? and does it matter if they touch ?


Yes it pushes against one cap, it doesn't matter if it pushes a cap
slightly, you don't want it pushing too much or you risk pulling the leads
out of the cap. Caps are generally soldered in place with a tiny gap
underneath and the one we're talking about here could be pushed over by 1 -
2 mm on my board.

Thanks for the help man your a lifesaver, the pic has been saved and i
will study it.

Thanks again.


No problem.

--
Ian

I dont have a dremil

Recommend any other way to cut it safely ?

Though i have thought about getting one

Iam making my own Ultra Tower case, twin 120mm fans bottom case and
twin 120mm at top of case , cpu by the side of the cpu case 120mm
, one 120mm at the top and one 120mm at the side of the case beside
cpu :0

Also and their is MORE above the two 120mm front fans two MORE 120mm
fans to cool the harddisks and one on the right to blow air DIRECTLY
though the cpu heatsink via a duct.

I call it my ULTRA TOWER.

Of course all fans can be turned down to 7 volts via fan controler,
otherwise it could get noisy, when built i might use it to fly to work
:-p

What do you think.

I think i may need 5volts what do you think.



On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 19:53:48 -0400, "Z28" wrote:

So I have to remove the mobo to get to the back for the 7000 mount? It needs
cleaning anyway and I want to reroute the power wires too! Never mind
changing out the old mobo for my Linux firewall box.. Lets make a party out
of it! :-)

"OCZ Guy" wrote in message
.. .

Ive got the same board and a Zalman 7000A cu, i belive you have to cu
the clip to fit it, have not done m ine yet using a Vantec AeroFlow,
i want my quiet Zalman


On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 14:06:36 -0400, "Z28" wrote:

They didn't mean 3200Mhz!!! Maybe PR rating on Sandra.

"Palindr?me" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I bought an overclockers.co.uk kit with an NF7-S Ver 2 mobo and XP2500 -
with the intention of overclocking it to 3200, as overclockers
guaranteed
it would. But I haven't even got that far as I am still trying to set it
up at failsafe settings, without success.

The first thing I noticed was that the first BIOS page reported the
clock
speed as 1100 and so does windows XP Pro SP1.

The IEEE and ethernet devices both have ? status.

XP pro identifies the IEEE device but will not load the driver as it
thinks there are insufficient resources.

It shows the ethernet controller but running the setup disk that came
with
the mobo doesn't load an ethernet driver and trying to do so manually by
pointing it at the CD subdirectory again doesn't think that a suitable
driver is there.

There does appear to be a more recent BIOS on the website but I am
loathe
to try that as the things it fixes don;t seem relevant.

Any thoughts on where to go from here? I have tried a clean install of
XP
Pro 3 times now with the same result. I could try 2000 or Win98 and see
if
they produce the same result.

My idea was to get the system fully functional before trying to tweak
anything higher and thought the failsafe settings would be a good place
to
start. The ethernet is enabled in the BIOS.

Can anyone tell me whether the clock speed is right for a 2500? I didn't
read the chip label when it arrived and assumed that they had sent the
right thing - the box was just a typical OEM plain brown cardboard.
Teach
me not to check! It certainly isn't getting more than very luke warm.

Any suggestions on getting the inbuilt ethernet to work, or the IEEE?

Or should I just return the mobo to overclockers?

--
Thanks,
Sue

Well, I wish I had looked here again first. But everything is OK. I did have
to mod it, I ground off the one screw hole on the clamp like your pix. It
works great and now I'm up to 2500 without any errors at all and idle @ 41c
load @ 46c with high ambient temps.

Oh and, I've been building and OC'ing my own PC's since I got rid of my
Tandy 1000EX years ago. Thanks for the help though.

"Apollo" wrote in message
...
Z28 wrote:
Noooo, What sink modding, can you be specific??? I haven't ordered
yet, so I'm not committed.



Don't be afraid ;o) modding is fun, just take your time so that 'fun'
doesn't become 'expensive'.

I've just taken a quick pic so you can see what needs to be done.
http://www.ian-dunbar.co.uk/water-im...dded-nf7-s.jpg

Decide which way around you're going to mount it, usually so that the
wires
are neat and tidy, mark that side of the mount and cut half of it off.
You
need to get the cut pretty close to the hole, cut it further away and then
carefully file it back. You don't want to risk the hole breaking through
so
be very careful and take your time, mine was slightly tight, but I
wouldn't
cut any more off.

It really is worth it, for the quietness and cooling ability.

HTH

--
Ian

I used a table mounted grinder and it worked fine to mod the clamp. I think
you could use a hacksaw if you was careful enough. Anyway I now know that
it was well worth the little extra trouble for the extra cooling. And if
your looking I saw one on Pricewatch a few days ago for $35 including
shipping.

"OCZ Guy" wrote in message
...


I dont have a dremil

Recommend any other way to cut it safely ?

Though i have thought about getting one

Iam making my own Ultra Tower case, twin 120mm fans bottom case and
twin 120mm at top of case , cpu by the side of the cpu case 120mm
, one 120mm at the top and one 120mm at the side of the case beside
cpu :0

Also and their is MORE above the two 120mm front fans two MORE 120mm
fans to cool the harddisks and one on the right to blow air DIRECTLY
though the cpu heatsink via a duct.

I call it my ULTRA TOWER.

Of course all fans can be turned down to 7 volts via fan controler,
otherwise it could get noisy, when built i might use it to fly to work
:-p

What do you think.

I think i may need 5volts what do you think.



On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 19:53:48 -0400, "Z28" wrote:

So I have to remove the mobo to get to the back for the 7000 mount? It
needs
cleaning anyway and I want to reroute the power wires too! Never mind
changing out the old mobo for my Linux firewall box.. Lets make a party
out
of it! :-)

"OCZ Guy" wrote in message
. ..

Ive got the same board and a Zalman 7000A cu, i belive you have to cu
the clip to fit it, have not done m ine yet using a Vantec AeroFlow,
i want my quiet Zalman


On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 14:06:36 -0400, "Z28" wrote:

They didn't mean 3200Mhz!!! Maybe PR rating on Sandra.

"Palindr?me" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I bought an overclockers.co.uk kit with an NF7-S Ver 2 mobo and
XP2500 -
with the intention of overclocking it to 3200, as overclockers
guaranteed
it would. But I haven't even got that far as I am still trying to set
it
up at failsafe settings, without success.

The first thing I noticed was that the first BIOS page reported the
clock
speed as 1100 and so does windows XP Pro SP1.

The IEEE and ethernet devices both have ? status.

XP pro identifies the IEEE device but will not load the driver as it
thinks there are insufficient resources.

It shows the ethernet controller but running the setup disk that came
with
the mobo doesn't load an ethernet driver and trying to do so manually
by
pointing it at the CD subdirectory again doesn't think that a suitable
driver is there.

There does appear to be a more recent BIOS on the website but I am
loathe
to try that as the things it fixes don;t seem relevant.

Any thoughts on where to go from here? I have tried a clean install of
XP
Pro 3 times now with the same result. I could try 2000 or Win98 and
see
if
they produce the same result.

My idea was to get the system fully functional before trying to tweak
anything higher and thought the failsafe settings would be a good
place
to
start. The ethernet is enabled in the BIOS.

Can anyone tell me whether the clock speed is right for a 2500? I
didn't
read the chip label when it arrived and assumed that they had sent the
right thing - the box was just a typical OEM plain brown cardboard.
Teach
me not to check! It certainly isn't getting more than very luke warm.

Any suggestions on getting the inbuilt ethernet to work, or the IEEE?

Or should I just return the mobo to overclockers?

--
Thanks,
Sue