Failed CMOS battery? Again?

In article , says...

MrTsquare wrote:


OK, turned it on tonite after leaving the power connected to the PS all
day since last nite. No change to symptoms. Still shows last night's
date and time. Guess I need to just feed it a 2032 every few months.

T2

You could connect a much larger battery to it.

But that's soldering iron / hardware hacker type stuff.

You need to use a battery with the correct voltage.
(Voltage can't be too high, or the battery ends up
"running the PC" all day :-) )

You'd locate something like this, check out the maH
rating (i.e. to work out how many months it'll work),
double-check the voltage is no more than CR2032
working voltage (must be more than 2.3V min). Buy a
battery holder, a couple of wires. And be damn
careful not to short something. Solder battery holder
in parallel with CR2032 socket (access solder points on
back of motherboard.) That particular battery is
for running digital cameras with high drain, so has
a relatively good peak current rating. If you short
a battery like that, who knows, it might begin to swell.
I would probably add a small series resistor, like 100
ohms, right on the battery terminal output, so a
downstream short couldn't pop anything.

http://www.all-battery.com/cr123_indvidual.aspx

When I was a kid, and playing with batteries in the
basement, I managed to develop enough current flow
in dry cell batteries, to make the positive
electrode "swell" and push out of the battery
case. (Try putting about 30 batteries in series...)
You don't want to be doing stuff like that. The
reason nothing bad happened to me, is they weren't
Lithium.

I would think putting a fresh CR2032 in there,
and leaving the power switch on the back of
the computer in the ON position, should lengthen
the time it lasts. If it does not, that tells you the
fault is very close to the battery itself (socket,
1K resistor, or problem at or near the three-legged

Gosh, Paul, its a wonder that you lived... ;)

Sorry, not that much of a hardware hacker to try the add-in battery
trick. Never did use the clear-cmos jumper, just put it together and
ran it. Will look more closely at the battery area for whiskers etc
when I get around to replacing it (bought 4 more today. Any preference
for brand names for the 2032 or are they all pretty much the same?

T2

MrTsquare wrote:


Gosh, Paul, its a wonder that you lived... ;)

Sorry, not that much of a hardware hacker to try the add-in battery
trick. Never did use the clear-cmos jumper, just put it together and
ran it. Will look more closely at the battery area for whiskers etc
when I get around to replacing it (bought 4 more today. Any preference
for brand names for the 2032 or are they all pretty much the same?

T2

Even with branded batteries, you don't know who
really made them.

Try to find a review for a named product, before
you buy.

I've bought batteries at the "Battery Store" in the
mall, and they were flat. There wasn't any charge
left in them a day later. So you can't even depend
on purpose-built suppliers to stock good stuff.

My recipe for digital watch batteries, was to
go to a department store with high levels of product
turnover. And I always seemed to get good batteries
there.

But as for brands, I don't really know what's out
there. I know some people swear by the batteries they
got off Ebay or the like. But I really don't know
a way to judge products like that. There is even less
control over who really made them. (You could have a
Panasonic branded battery, as a knockoff from China.
An Ebay seller wouldn't really care where they got
the battery from.)

Paul

In article ,
says...

In article , says...

MrTsquare wrote:


OK, turned it on tonite after leaving the power connected to the PS all
day since last nite. No change to symptoms. Still shows last night's
date and time. Guess I need to just feed it a 2032 every few months.

T2

You could connect a much larger battery to it.

But that's soldering iron / hardware hacker type stuff.

You need to use a battery with the correct voltage.
(Voltage can't be too high, or the battery ends up
"running the PC" all day :-) )

You'd locate something like this, check out the maH
rating (i.e. to work out how many months it'll work),
double-check the voltage is no more than CR2032
working voltage (must be more than 2.3V min). Buy a
battery holder, a couple of wires. And be damn
careful not to short something. Solder battery holder
in parallel with CR2032 socket (access solder points on
back of motherboard.) That particular battery is
for running digital cameras with high drain, so has
a relatively good peak current rating. If you short
a battery like that, who knows, it might begin to swell.
I would probably add a small series resistor, like 100
ohms, right on the battery terminal output, so a
downstream short couldn't pop anything.

http://www.all-battery.com/cr123_indvidual.aspx

When I was a kid, and playing with batteries in the
basement, I managed to develop enough current flow
in dry cell batteries, to make the positive
electrode "swell" and push out of the battery
case. (Try putting about 30 batteries in series...)
You don't want to be doing stuff like that. The
reason nothing bad happened to me, is they weren't
Lithium.

I would think putting a fresh CR2032 in there,
and leaving the power switch on the back of
the computer in the ON position, should lengthen
the time it lasts. If it does not, that tells you the

Just replaced the cmos battery. Examined the area of the "Clear RTC"
jumper with a flash light. Removed what looked like a piece of lint
going from the jumper to the board. We shall see what we shall see.

T2

In article , says...

MrTsquare wrote:


Gosh, Paul, its a wonder that you lived... ;)

Sorry, not that much of a hardware hacker to try the add-in battery
trick. Never did use the clear-cmos jumper, just put it together and
ran it. Will look more closely at the battery area for whiskers etc
when I get around to replacing it (bought 4 more today. Any preference
for brand names for the 2032 or are they all pretty much the same?

T2

Even with branded batteries, you don't know who
really made them.

Try to find a review for a named product, before
you buy.

I've bought batteries at the "Battery Store" in the
mall, and they were flat. There wasn't any charge
left in them a day later. So you can't even depend
on purpose-built suppliers to stock good stuff.

My recipe for digital watch batteries, was to
go to a department store with high levels of product
turnover. And I always seemed to get good batteries
there.

But as for brands, I don't really know what's out
there. I know some people swear by the batteries they
got off Ebay or the like. But I really don't know
a way to judge products like that. There is even less
control over who really made them. (You could have a
Panasonic branded battery, as a knockoff from China.
An Ebay seller wouldn't really care where they got
the battery from.)

Paul

Would think that a 2032 is a 2032... standards and all. Guess not.

T2

On Thu, 12 Feb 2015 20:18:57 -0500, Paul wrote:

My recipe for digital watch batteries, was to
go to a department store with high levels of product
turnover. And I always seemed to get good batteries
there.

But as for brands, I don't really know what's out
there. I know some people swear by the batteries they
got off Ebay or the like. But I really don't know
a way to judge products like that. There is even less
control over who really made them. (You could have a
Panasonic branded battery, as a knockoff from China.
An Ebay seller wouldn't really care where they got
the battery from.)

Wasn't Ebay, for sure, but awhile back -after checking out some local
"mark-ups," labeled for batteries, to my mind- I went online looking
for alternatives;- Likely Wallymart, though they do include installing
the battery, in case one feels like potluck with an irreplaceable, 1st
production Casio atomic-clock radio-reception wris****ch.

Ittybitty tinseywinsey watch batteries. Probably got six (5-yr.
projected life) in a blister pack for a local price (even called
around, they were all expensive).

Anyway it was a pretty big WEB outfit specializing in only batteries,
everything and everyone. I'm going back one of these days to tear
apart, with a Dremel, a disposable sealed toothbrush. Now, those are
expensive -- priced like Garmin's batteries.

Some battery stuff, pretty much don't work any other way. Need the
web and damn near a catalogue for cross-referencing all the different
ways and nomenclature they're labeled by.