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#1
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motherboard 5v
My legacy ECS K7S5A motherboard BIOS hardware monitor says the 5v is
low. So I used a multimeter to check a USB 5v header pin, and it says 4.75v. The power supply 5v disk connector has exactly 5v, so the power supply is good. If I replace the 5v AGP card with a 3.3v card, the USB pin measures 4.85v. So the 5v video card causes a 0.1v drop on the motherboard 5v. Is 4.75v PCI/USB safe? Should I replace the AGP video card to get the extra 0.1v? I hear that 5% tolerance is OK, but 4.75v is right at the edge of 5%. The motherboard seems to work OK, but I wonder if it's safe. |
#2
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 15:21:08 +0000, T. Ment wrote:
My legacy ECS K7S5A motherboard BIOS hardware monitor says the 5v is low. So I used a multimeter to check a USB 5v header pin, and it says 4.75v. The power supply 5v disk connector has exactly 5v, so the power supply is good. If I replace the 5v AGP card with a 3.3v card, the USB pin measures 4.85v. So the 5v video card causes a 0.1v drop on the motherboard 5v. Is 4.75v PCI/USB safe? Should I replace the AGP video card to get the extra 0.1v? I hear that 5% tolerance is OK, but 4.75v is right at the edge of 5%. The motherboard seems to work OK, but I wonder if it's safe. Replace the power supply. The 5v disk connector may well come from another regulator. At the very least measure the 5v at the motherboard multiconector from the psu. -- Regards - Rodney Pont The from address exists but is mostly dumped, please send any emails to the address below e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com |
#3
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 17:00:42 +0100 (BST), rp wrote:
Replace the power supply. It's a $20 special. I don't care about perfection. The 5v disk connector may well come from another regulator. At the very least measure the 5v at the motherboard multiconector from the psu. I won't buy another power supply if this one gets me by. My question is, what tolerance is safe. |
#4
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 15:21:08 +0000, T. Ment
wrote: The motherboard seems to work OK, but I wonder if it's safe. Depends on safe. A bad power supply may generate OS errors. Replacing it and correcting those errors isn't going to affect the MB longevity. |
#5
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 12:44:36 -0400, Flasherly wrote:
Depends on safe. A bad power supply may generate OS errors. No errors yet. Looks safe so far. Replacing it and correcting those errors isn't going to affect the MB longevity. I spent $20 on the power supply. $6 on the motherboard. No more money in the budget. Does anybody know anything, except "replace the power supply"? |
#6
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motherboard 5v
T. Ment wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 17:00:42 +0100 (BST), rp wrote: Replace the power supply. It's a $20 special. I don't care about perfection. The 5v disk connector may well come from another regulator. At the very least measure the 5v at the motherboard multiconector from the psu. I won't buy another power supply if this one gets me by. My question is, what tolerance is safe. You can compare to a picture here. This is just the first picture I could find, bigger than a thumbnail. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2265 The board doesn't have an ATX12V 2x2 power connector, with the two yellow wires and two black wires. That means the *CPU* runs off +5V, as well as lots of other logic. It's natural for such an unbalanced load situation (only an amp or two load on +12V, but 15 amps off the +5V), for the +5V to be a little on the low side. This is called "cross-regulation". There is only one feedback loop in the ATX power supply for regulation. What you'd find is, the +5V resting at its low limit, and the +12V "higher than normal". If an ATX supply is "non-compliant to crossloading", then the +5V could even be too low and out-of-spec. These are examples of ATX specs, of various generations. The 1.1 version was back when power supplies still had a -5V rail. The pin on the main connector is missing on modern supplies, where the =5V pin used to be located. # This is 20 pin, back when -5V was still on the connector. http://web.archive.org/web/200304240...12V_PS_1_1.pdf Table 3. DC Output Voltage Regulation Output Range Min. Nom. Max. Unit +12VDC (1) ±5% +11.40 +12.00 +12.60 Volts +5VDC ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts +3.3VDC ±5% +3.14 +3.30 +3.47 Volts -5VDC ±10% -4.50 -5.00 -5.50 Volts === pre-year-2000 PSUs -12VDC ±10% -10.80 -12.00 -13.20 Volts +5VSB ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts # This is 20 pin, with the -5V pin pulled from the connector. https://web.archive.org/web/20040731...X12V_1_3dg.pdf Table 2 Output Range Min. Nom. Max. Unit +12VDC (1) ±5% +11.40 +12.00 +12.60 Volts +5VDC ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts +3.3VDC (2) ±5% +3.14 +3.30 +3.47 Volts -12VDC ±10% -10.80 -12.00 -13.20 Volts === Used for serial port RS232 chip, dont care +5VSB ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts # This covers 24 pin versions of ATX PSU https://web.archive.org/web/20070103...public_br2.pdf Table 2 Output Range Min. Nom. Max. Unit +12V1DC (1) ±5% +11.40 +12.00 +12.60 Volts \___ Allows ATX12V 2x2 to come from its own src +12V2DC (3) ±5% +11.40 +12.00 +12.60 Volts / even though cct might only have one xfmr +5VDC ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts +3.3VDC (2) ±5% +3.14 +3.30 +3.47 Volts -12VDC ±10% -10.80 -12.00 -13.20 Volts +5VSB ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts The 3.3V rail has a "private" remote sense wire bonded to its pin. You will see two wires going into one of the 3.3V pins, and this allows "sniffing" the 3.3V right at the load. The +5V rail doesn't have this (there were a few supplies with separate regulation, but that's not something you will see on a $20 supply). In any case, the most likely thing to happen to a "+5V mobo", is some discoloration where the pins are overheating on the main connector. While there are four wires to carry +5V, you'll typically find, by using a clamp-on ammeter, that two pins carry 0.5A more than they should, and two pins carry 0.5A less than they should. This is called "current hogging" and it takes careful layout work to balance the pins better. Back when they made *dual* socket Athlon motherboards, some of those used to burn on the main connector, due to a lack of ampacity. You're drawing 30A of current through 24A worth of pins, something like that. Back in the old days, you could actually get some supplies with 40A on the +5V, even if the wire couldn't really handle it. If your device is stable, I wouldn't worry about it too much. After all, it's run this long, and the caps didn't burst on it, so you're in "bonus time" country on your purchase. ******* Modern power supplies have most of their amps on +12V. A modern supply is one with an "80%+" efficiency rating and active power factor correction (PFC). Typically the +5V is only 20A, and the combined 3.3V and 5V output may not be sufficient to run a "good" AGP video card plus your processor at the same time. Some supplies have, say, 3.3V @ 20A, 5V @ 20A, combined watts on the two rails less than 130W. And your board is getting close to the limit. Even if you bought a "1200W PSU", it could tip over, because they still use a puny 3.3V/5V secondary converter board for the low rails. And *all* your load is on the low rails. I used to draw 25A on my Nforce2 board when gaming, and the supply was good for that much. I could measure that with my clamp-on ammeter. Eventually, the end-connector on the video card burned off, and I had to solder the +5V back on. Worked a treat after being soldered in place (no more ohmic connections). These things happen, when a connector works loose. ******* You're doing just fine. Relax and enjoy your machine, until that Athlon cooks out and smokes. They discolor after a while, even if you take care of them. Paul |
#7
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motherboard 5v
T. Ment wrote:
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 17:00:42 +0100 (BST), rp wrote: Replace the power supply. It's a $20 special. I don't care about perfection. That is way too cheap for a decent power supply. When I do a build, most of the PSUs that I end up looking at are $80 at a minimum but usually spend a lot more. However, I don't know what you got for capacity (VA or watts) for your PSU, or its efficiency (less efficient = more heat = more thermal stress = less capacity to internal components since the A/C outlet isn't changing its voltage). Figure on losing 5% capacity each year with a decent PSU. That's why I buy PSUs that are much higher in capacity than the load they will initially need to handle. For a 400W load, I'd get a 750W PSU because in 8 years (what I like to build for longevity) the PSU will still be more than enough at 66% of its initial capacity. The 5% is a rough estimate of capacity reduction, but PSUs do wane over time. Cheapies die off much quicker. The PSU supplies the life blood to the computer. If you do the build, you are the hematologist for the computer. How old is your $20 PSU? Was it a pre-built computer or did you do your own build? The PSUs that come in pre-builts are often minimal for the standard configuration by the model (with the same PSU used within a family of models). They don't overbuild since they're maximizing their profit margin. The 5v disk connector may well come from another regulator. At the very least measure the 5v at the motherboard multiconector from the psu. I won't buy another power supply if this one gets me by. My question is, what tolerance is safe. 4.75V is the minimum. Less voltage means supplying more current to handle the same load, and more current puts more thermal stress on the supply components. The computer's PSU is a switching power supply. Unless you have an oscilloscope, you only know the average voltage, but won't know how much ripple there is. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews...u,4042.html#p3 Also, rare few consumers every calibrate their multimeters. They buy them and figure they are accurate, and think they will remain accurate. Calibration costs money and why consumers rarely get their meters calibrate initially or at 5-year intervals. Consumers get their meters calibrated less than 1% as often as they check their car's tire pressures, so consumers never get their meters calibrated. Considering the low-end meters that consumers buy, calibration is usually more expensive (perhaps $95) than the meter. As such, consumer-grade non-calibrated meters are only to give an indication of voltage level, not a precise measurement. Although you measured 4.75V, was it really that voltage? The voltage could be worse (lower) or better (higher). Have you noticed any of your USB devices not functioning or acting flaky? Some USB devices don't need power from the USB port since they have their own, like for printers, a UPS (with its USB connection for monitoring software), and some external HDDs in cases with their own power adapter. It would be the non-self-powered USB devices you'd have problems with. Computers always cost money - to buy, to maintain, to upgrade, for Internet access, the power consumption, etc - so save up and get a better PSU. $20 is a throw-away PSU. Presumably that wasn't an 80% off special sale. |
#8
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 14:28:39 -0500, VanguardLH wrote:
It's a $20 special. That is way too cheap for a decent power supply. When I do a build, most of the PSUs that I end up looking at are $80 at a minimum but usually spend a lot more. I don't need an economics expert. I only asked about voltage. |
#9
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motherboard 5v
On Mon, 03 Jun 2019 14:48:43 -0400, Paul wrote:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2265 The board doesn't have an ATX12V 2x2 power connector, with the two yellow wires and two black wires. That means the *CPU* runs off +5V, as well as lots of other logic. It's natural for such an unbalanced load situation (only an amp or two load on +12V, but 15 amps off the +5V), for the +5V to be a little on the low side. This is called "cross-regulation". There is only one feedback loop in the ATX power supply for regulation. What you'd find is, the +5V resting at its low limit, and the +12V "higher than normal". If an ATX supply is "non-compliant to crossloading", then the +5V could even be too low and out-of-spec. These are examples of ATX specs, of various generations. The 1.1 version was back when power supplies still had a -5V rail. The pin on the main connector is missing on modern supplies, where the =5V pin used to be located. Mine has -5v, a 20/24 main connector, a 4 pin +12v, and 34a on the +5v. With a loud pop, it blew a capacitor the first time I powered it on, but after replacing the failed cap, it works. It was a smaller cap, not one of the two big ones. They scare me. I would throw it out if they blew. +5VDC ±5% +4.75 +5.00 +5.25 Volts I see 4.75v on a USB header pin. It's within spec, just barely. You're doing just fine. Relax and enjoy your machine, until that Athlon cooks out and smokes. I have an Athlon that went into thermal runaway once. Don't know what caused it. The machine froze, and the CPU heatsink burned my finger when I touched it, like a hot burner on a stove. After cooling down, it's run fine ever since. I never leave it running when I'm gone though. I'm afraid it could happen again, catch fire, and burn the house down. |
#10
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motherboard 5v
T. Ment wrote:
On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 14:28:39 -0500, VanguardLH wrote: It's a $20 special. That is way too cheap for a decent power supply. When I do a build, most of the PSUs that I end up looking at are $80 at a minimum but usually spend a lot more. I don't need an economics expert. I only asked about voltage. Oh, so quality of the PSU, it voltage regulation, ripple, accuracy of your multimeter, reduction in capacity as the PSU ages, less voltage means more current for same power load all have nothing to do with "about voltage". Voltage isn't the only factor in powering the USB-attached devices (which could be low- or high-power devices but you didn't identify them). Good luck with the other respondents. According to your reply here, even Paul went off-topic discussing bad caps, cross-regulation, efficiency, and other topics. Maybe some other respondents might show up later that narrowing address just "is 4.75V enough" but with a total lack of describing the USB devices. Bye bye. |
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