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#1
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Motherboard with a dead sound chip
Hi,
I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio (http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip (Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the motherboard. Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board? |
#2
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"Float" wrote in message ... Hi, I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio (http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip (Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the motherboard. Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board? considering the board is presently useless it seems you can't do too much harm by *carefully* unsoldering the chip and seeing if you can get the board to post |
#3
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On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 10:17:41 +0300, Float
wrote: Hi, I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio (http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip (Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the motherboard. Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board? In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not removable. Do you have non-amplified speakers connected? Don't. Unfortunately it would seem the board, which was low-end junk to begin with, is now at the end of it's useful life... to have lasted this long it was a pretty good value. |
#4
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kony wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 10:17:41 +0300, Float wrote: Hi, I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio (http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip (Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the motherboard. Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board? In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not removable. Do you have non-amplified speakers connected? Don't. Unfortunately it would seem the board, which was low-end junk to begin with, is now at the end of it's useful life... to have lasted this long it was a pretty good value. Would that now make it a squashed tomato?! Sorry, couldn't resist. I've honestly never heard of the brand. Obviously tomato is a euphemism for 'lemon'. |
#5
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"kony" wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 10:17:41 +0300, Float wrote: Hi, I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio (http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip (Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the motherboard. Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board? In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not removable. Safest way for a non-technician to remove a chip that is already toast anyway is to cut through all of the leads. Remove the IC package, then use a soldering iron and tweezers to remove the remaining leads being careful not to leave any solder bridges between the pads. (Hot air rework stations are an acquired skill so that you don't lift any traces or pads.) BTW, if you do accidentally get a solder bridge, do not power up the board until you manage to get rid of it...solder wick works well for that. Do you have non-amplified speakers connected? Don't. Unfortunately it would seem the board, which was low-end junk to begin with, is now at the end of it's useful life... to have lasted this long it was a pretty good value. |
#6
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On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 20:12:54 -0400, "George" wrote:
In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not removable. Safest way for a non-technician to remove a chip that is already toast anyway is to cut through all of the leads. Remove the IC package, then use a soldering iron and tweezers to remove the remaining leads being careful not to leave any solder bridges between the pads. (Hot air rework stations are an acquired skill so that you don't lift any traces or pads.) BTW, if you do accidentally get a solder bridge, do not power up the board until you manage to get rid of it...solder wick works well for that. It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could stay on the board. |
#7
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"kony" wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 20:12:54 -0400, "George" wrote: It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could stay on the board. Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production for over a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the unpowered IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the entire IC and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters (recommended) or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the Dremel and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal cutters. But caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention. |
#8
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On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 20:22:58 -0400, "George" wrote:
It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could stay on the board. Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production for over a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the unpowered IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the entire IC and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters (recommended) or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the Dremel and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal cutters. But caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention. It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut leads on most modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard, especially considering it's (the board's) age. Do you know of a good source for affordable micro-tools? |
#9
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On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 20:22:58 -0400, "George" wrote:
It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could stay on the board. Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production for over a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the unpowered IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the entire IC and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters (recommended) or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the Dremel and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal cutters. But caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention. It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut traces on most modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard, especially considering it's age. Do you know of a good source for affordable micro-tools? |
#10
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"kony" wrote in message ... On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 20:22:58 -0400, "George" wrote: It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut leads on most modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard, especially considering it's (the board's) age. Do you know of a good source for affordable micro-tools? I've used both Sandvik and Excel with good results on ICs including fine pitch J-lead. Right now it is fortunate that most ICs aren't BGAs... you're up the creek there without a hot air rework station. |
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