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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
Hello,
This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment: Step 1. I open the front door. Step 2. I open the back window. Result: Wind tunnel effect. Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks outside... otherwise stinky gasses) Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings. Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels. Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel effect will occur. Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the wind tunnel effect ? Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into the tubes :P* It works for me on a big scale Bye, Skybuck. |
#2
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
On Jul 6, 10:10*am, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello, This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment: Step 1. I open the front door. Step 2. I open the back window. Result: Wind tunnel effect. Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks outside... otherwise stinky gasses) Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings. Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels. Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel effect will occur. Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the wind tunnel effect ? Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into the tubes :P* It works for me on a big scale Bye, * Skybuck. There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic. I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic door open and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it substantially however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker. shortT |
#3
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.
I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic door open and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it substantially however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker. Hmm interesting theory. I lived in a house with an air-ventilation system and it used hot air to warm the house. The air goes in from the top, goes through the attic, is warmed there... (or is warmed down below?)... then it goes down through tubes and warms the house. (I could be mistaken but I thought that's how it worked) I guess such a system would supply fresh oxygen and just maybe, just maybe the house would burn down a little bit quicker... ohoh. Well better not to start a fire... but there are combatting systems for that... like smoke detectors... and maybe house could be equiped with water hoses... wow - wet house sucks though hehe. Problem with smoke detectors is their batteries run out... and then they start beeping which gets annoying... and then people will probably not bother to replace the batteries... or don't even understand why it's beeping It would need to be build into the house electric supply... but then what if the electricity falls out... then ofcourse it won't work... so I guess this is what you call a catch 24. Batteries suck and eletricity net could fail. Hehehe. Maybe smoke detectors which can automatically load themselfes via solar panels that would be nice. Bye, Skybuck. |
#4
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...
So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup... But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during eletricity fail out ? Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a secondary system... It must be one main system: So requirements: 1. The eletricity must come from the batteries. 2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is available. 3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work after all Bye, Skybuck |
#6
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message
b.home.nl... But then again... it's rare that electricity fails... So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup... But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during eletricity fail out ? Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a secondary system... It must be one main system: So requirements: 1. The eletricity must come from the batteries. 2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is available. 3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work after all Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18 months or less. They use no significant power when idle: but the battery charge declines (very slowly.) When needed, the battery need power the alarm for only two minutes or however long it takes to alert the family and identify whether the alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you, whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.) If the house does not burn down, a new battery is sufficiently cheap. -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
#7
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
On Sun, 6 Jul 2008 16:10:25 +0200, "Skybuck Flying"
wrote: This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment: Step 1. I open the front door. Step 2. I open the back window. Result: Wind tunnel effect. Air is a rather lousy thermal conductor: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html You could do better to cool your house with water, which has 20 times the thermal conductivity. The procedure is similar to using air cooling. 1. Close all the doors and windows. 2. Seal all the outlets, drains, and cracks. 3. Turn on all the faucets and allow the house to fill with water. 4. When full and adequately cooled, drain the water outside. 5. Repeat as necessary to cool the house and electronics. Liquid whole-house immersion cooling may be a bit excessive for your application. Therefore, a hybrid approach, such as spraying your electronics with a water hose, where the mechanism is evaporative cooling, might be more appropriate. It also uses less water. Another hybrid approach would be plumbing. The liquid would be transported through various size pipes and hoses, accumulate the heat, and empty it outside via a suitable radiator. Such water cooling is commonly used in high end over-clocked PC game machines. It is also possible to operate some electronics under water. This requires low impedance design, which is not particularly efficient, but useful for such applications like marine radios. You could analyze the schematic to see if immersion cooling is possible, or you could simply run a test by dumping your electronics in a water bucket. If successful, simply emptying the bucket outside is equivalent to dumping the heat. Please note that you are not really "cooling" anything. What you're doing is moving the heat from its source, in your electronics, to somewhere else. It's a good idea to make sure the destination is able to handle the added heat before dumping the calories in their back yard. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#8
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
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#9
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
In article e.nl, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello, This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment: In this day and age you even trust leaving your apartment door open? Step 1. I open the front door. Step 2. I open the back window. Result: Wind tunnel effect. Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks outside... otherwise stinky gasses) Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings. Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels. Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel effect will occur. Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the wind tunnel effect ? Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into the tubes :P* It works for me on a big scale Bye, Skybuck. |
#10
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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.
On Sun, 6 Jul 2008 10:49:17 -0400, "Don Phillipson"
wrote: Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18 months or less. They use no significant power when idle: but the battery charge declines (very slowly.) When needed, the battery need power the alarm for only two minutes or however long it takes to alert the family and identify whether the alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you, whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.) If the house does not burn down, a new battery is sufficiently cheap. The newer smoke detectors, with Lithium batteries, will last about 8-10 years. For example: http://smokesign.com/10yearlitbat.html The AC powered smoke detector backup battery lasts about 8-10 years. That's roughly the self-discharge shelf life of the alkaline battery. The battery is only used when the AC power fails. One nice feature on some of these AC powered alarms is that they can be wired together. If there's a fire in a remote part of the house, the alarm will blast in all parts of the house. They are usually wired to the burglar alarm. I recently replaced one smoke detector because they would trigger on my cooking. They have an "alarm silencer" button, which temporarily disables the smoke alarm for about 10 minutes. Very handy. The NFPA recommends that smoke alarms be replaced every 10 years. http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?categoryID=278&itemID=20526 I can see why. I tested my 35 year old smoke alarms, with new batteries, and a piece of burning newspaper. Two out of four did NOT trigger. The ones that did trigger, required considerable smoke and time before the buzzer sounded. I replaced them all with newer models, which are allegedly more reliable. When in doubt, test. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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