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Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 6th 08, 03:10 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Skybuck Flying[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,459
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes :P*

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
Skybuck.


  #2  
Old July 6th 08, 03:13 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
shortT
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

On Jul 6, 10:10*am, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes :P*

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
* Skybuck.


There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.
I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic
door open
and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it
substantially
however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker.

shortT
  #3  
Old July 6th 08, 03:26 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Skybuck Flying[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,459
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.
I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic
door open
and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it
substantially
however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker.


Hmm interesting theory.

I lived in a house with an air-ventilation system and it used hot air to
warm the house.

The air goes in from the top, goes through the attic, is warmed there... (or
is warmed down below?)... then it goes down through tubes and warms the
house. (I could be mistaken but I thought that's how it worked)

I guess such a system would supply fresh oxygen and just maybe, just maybe
the house would burn down a little bit quicker... ohoh.

Well better not to start a fire... but there are combatting systems for
that... like smoke detectors... and maybe house could be equiped with water
hoses... wow - wet house sucks though hehe.

Problem with smoke detectors is their batteries run out... and then they
start beeping which gets annoying... and then people will probably not
bother to replace the batteries... or don't even understand why it's beeping


It would need to be build into the house electric supply... but then what if
the electricity falls out... then ofcourse it won't work... so I guess this
is what you call a catch 24. Batteries suck and eletricity net could fail.
Hehehe.

Maybe smoke detectors which can automatically load themselfes via solar
panels that would be nice.

Bye,
Skybuck.


  #4  
Old July 6th 08, 03:35 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Skybuck Flying[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,459
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...

So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the
electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup...

But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during
eletricity fail out ?

Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a
secondary system... It must be one main system:

So requirements:

1. The eletricity must come from the batteries.

2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is
available.

3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when
eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire

So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work
after all

Bye,
Skybuck


  #6  
Old July 6th 08, 03:49 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Don Phillipson[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 320
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message
b.home.nl...
But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...

So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the
electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup...

But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during
eletricity fail out ?

Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a
secondary system... It must be one main system:

So requirements:

1. The eletricity must come from the batteries.

2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is
available.

3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when
eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire

So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work
after all


Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so
long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18
months or less. They use no significant power
when idle: but the battery charge declines (very
slowly.) When needed, the battery need power
the alarm for only two minutes or however long it
takes to alert the family and identify whether the
alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you,
whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.)
If the house does not burn down, a new battery
is sufficiently cheap.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)


  #7  
Old July 6th 08, 05:20 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Jeff Liebermann[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 134
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

On Sun, 6 Jul 2008 16:10:25 +0200, "Skybuck Flying"
wrote:

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:
Step 1. I open the front door.
Step 2. I open the back window.
Result: Wind tunnel effect.


Air is a rather lousy thermal conductor:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
You could do better to cool your house with water, which has 20 times
the thermal conductivity. The procedure is similar to using air
cooling.
1. Close all the doors and windows.
2. Seal all the outlets, drains, and cracks.
3. Turn on all the faucets and allow the house to fill with water.
4. When full and adequately cooled, drain the water outside.
5. Repeat as necessary to cool the house and electronics.

Liquid whole-house immersion cooling may be a bit excessive for your
application. Therefore, a hybrid approach, such as spraying your
electronics with a water hose, where the mechanism is evaporative
cooling, might be more appropriate. It also uses less water.

Another hybrid approach would be plumbing. The liquid would be
transported through various size pipes and hoses, accumulate the heat,
and empty it outside via a suitable radiator. Such water cooling is
commonly used in high end over-clocked PC game machines.

It is also possible to operate some electronics under water. This
requires low impedance design, which is not particularly efficient,
but useful for such applications like marine radios. You could
analyze the schematic to see if immersion cooling is possible, or you
could simply run a test by dumping your electronics in a water bucket.
If successful, simply emptying the bucket outside is equivalent to
dumping the heat.

Please note that you are not really "cooling" anything. What you're
doing is moving the heat from its source, in your electronics, to
somewhere else. It's a good idea to make sure the destination is able
to handle the added heat before dumping the calories in their back
yard.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #8  
Old July 6th 08, 05:31 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
housetrained
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 32
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

The ones we have emit an annoying intermittent beep before the battery runs
flat - great as you are warned.

--
John the West Ham fan C.E.T.



"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...
"Skybuck Flying" wrote in message
b.home.nl...
But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...

So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the
electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup...

But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during
eletricity fail out ?

Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a
secondary system... It must be one main system:

So requirements:

1. The eletricity must come from the batteries.

2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is
available.

3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when
eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire

So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work
after all


Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so
long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18
months or less. They use no significant power
when idle: but the battery charge declines (very
slowly.) When needed, the battery need power
the alarm for only two minutes or however long it
takes to alert the family and identify whether the
alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you,
whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.)
If the house does not burn down, a new battery
is sufficiently cheap.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)


  #9  
Old July 6th 08, 05:42 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
GMAN[_5_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 17
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

In article e.nl, "Skybuck Flying" wrote:
Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:



In this day and age you even trust leaving your apartment door open?

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes :P*

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
Skybuck.


  #10  
Old July 6th 08, 05:58 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt,comp.arch,sci.electronics.design
Jeff Liebermann[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 134
Default Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

On Sun, 6 Jul 2008 10:49:17 -0400, "Don Phillipson"
wrote:

Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so
long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18
months or less. They use no significant power
when idle: but the battery charge declines (very
slowly.) When needed, the battery need power
the alarm for only two minutes or however long it
takes to alert the family and identify whether the
alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you,
whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.)
If the house does not burn down, a new battery
is sufficiently cheap.


The newer smoke detectors, with Lithium batteries, will last about
8-10 years. For example:
http://smokesign.com/10yearlitbat.html

The AC powered smoke detector backup battery lasts about 8-10 years.
That's roughly the self-discharge shelf life of the alkaline battery.
The battery is only used when the AC power fails. One nice feature on
some of these AC powered alarms is that they can be wired together. If
there's a fire in a remote part of the house, the alarm will blast in
all parts of the house. They are usually wired to the burglar alarm.

I recently replaced one smoke detector because they would trigger on
my cooking. They have an "alarm silencer" button, which temporarily
disables the smoke alarm for about 10 minutes. Very handy.

The NFPA recommends that smoke alarms be replaced every 10 years.
http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?categoryID=278&itemID=20526
I can see why. I tested my 35 year old smoke alarms, with new
batteries, and a piece of burning newspaper. Two out of four did NOT
trigger. The ones that did trigger, required considerable smoke and
time before the buzzer sounded. I replaced them all with newer
models, which are allegedly more reliable. When in doubt, test.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 




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