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#11
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
Metspitzer wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:53:55 -0400, Paul wrote: Ok I am going for it. I will get this chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115070 This board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128475 I would like to get 8GB memory, but I am not sure what would be compatible with this board. I was counting on getting a very nice HD monitor, but I am open to suggestions on what would be a good buy. I was planning to spend around 500 bucks for a 26". Although I don't plan on doing any games at the moment, I do hope I get to play Diablo 3 and the next Oblivion, so it would be nice to have a graphics card. Again, I am waiting for someone to put their finger on one. I have no clue which one is good. Guess I have to pick a card before I ask for the size power supply. Anandtech likes to include a table in some of their articles, comparing the two brands of video cards on price. http://www.anandtech.com/show/4260/a...p-short-at-150 At the high end, they use two GPU chips inside the same module. So the very highest performance cards can be cheating. The power consumption would match. http://www.gpureview.com/Radeon-HD-6990-card-646.html http://www.gpureview.com/GeForce-GTX-590-card-648.html If you go down a step, the module has one GPU. http://www.gpureview.com/GeForce-GTX-580-card-637.html http://www.gpureview.com/Radeon-HD-6970-card-638.html You can look at them, based on the power they draw. http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2...Draw,2678.html You can look at them, based on performance. On some games, the game prefers one brand of video card over the other (optimizations are different in the game code). http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2...iast,2672.html http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2...iast,2666.html You can list a group of cards, and sort them by reputation. You'd be looking at both the price (performance level) and whether a lot of people are having trouble with it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...NG&PageSize=20 You take a specific card, then read customer reviews. Some people have the odd problem with the card. Reading the reviews is pretty important. One reviewer says "Idles at 30 degress Celsius, under load about 50-65", which is excellent as video cards go. In the past, some of the cards would be hitting 90C. Or the users would have to increase the fan setting, to get a decent temperature. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130593 You can do the same search on some ATI cards. Look at the 6000 series. Sort by ratings. Look at reputation and price. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...Subcategory=48 Look at a specific card, like this 6970. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102915 "runs my games without a hiccup starcraft 2, crysis, sims medieval, fallout new vegas, all on max settings and 1920x1200 good temps 30c idle and 55c on load slipped right into my haf x with no problem fan is loud but i play with headphones so it does not bother me" "Long as hell. Make sure to get a large enough case. You will need it." "Runs real quiet when idle at 58c and under load runs at around 85c with the fan running at about 30% which you can barely hear" High end cards are mainly to allow the usage of a lot of pixels on screen. Like the 1920 x 1200 native resolution of that one reviewer. Operating temperature range is going to vary somewhat, depending on how the case provides cooling, and moves warm air away from the card. You can get some idea of what happens to system power consumption with the graph here. A GTX 570 or a HD 6970 bring *system* power up to about 600W in their example. You need a decent power supply for it. These power numbers are likely measured at the wall with a Kill-O-Watt meter. 600W wall, times 83% PSU efficiency (a good one), means about 500W coming from the case, and 100W coming from the power supply vent. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/vid..._13.html#sect0 Some of the articles, show the 12V current used by the various power inputs on the card. The GTX 570 and GTX 580 use the same GPU, but one card uses a wider memory. The GTX 570 uses 2+9.2+9.1 from the three 12V power sources. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/vid...0_4.html#sect0 The GTX 580 uses 2.7+7.2+14.4, and the 14.4 is a bit high for the connector. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/vid...0_5.html#sect0 We could allow 9 amps for your processor, 20 amps for your GTX 570, 0.5 amps for fans, 0.6 amps for a single hard drive, 2.5 amps for a BluRay burner. A rough number is 33 amps from 12V. You can get power supplies with a single large output. This power supply is 60 amps on 12V, so leaves some margin. It's smaller brother, a few dollars cheaper, is 52 amps. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006 You also do a rough check of power in watts. It's also important. We can take 12V * 33 amps and get 396W. To that, add roughly 50W for motherboard power and RAM power draw. 10W for USB power of various devices. The drives draw some 5V power, throw in another 15W. About 471W total. The power supply is rated at 750W, again, some margin is available so the supply isn't at its limit. So a slightly-less-than-top-of-the-line solution costs $360 for the video card, and $110 for the power supply to run it. Since the video card is long, you have to check there is room within the computer case. One person mentioned a HAF-X case. You can find reviews for cases. This case has room for E-ATX (12"x13") and that means there'd be a bit more room for a long card. The review also mentions some other cases. If you could get precise measurements on the video card length, it might be possible to shop for a cheaper case. http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cas...haf-x-review/1 Once you move to the "monster video card" build, your build details and the character of the machine change a lot. You have a lot more fans present. The video card will speed up its fan when you play 3D games. Without the video card, you could build a lower power system, the computer case wouldn't be an issue (even a piece of cheap junk would work). Putting in a 200W+ video card, means providing the necessities for it. It's like owning a big dog, and having to buy two cans of dog food per day. Paul |
#12
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
On Apr 10, 3:22*am, Paul wrote:
Metspitzer wrote: On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:53:55 -0400, Paul wrote: Ok *I am going for it. I will get this chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...?Item=N82E1681 Once you move to the "monster video card" build, your build details and the character of the machine change a lot. You have a lot more fans present. The video card will speed up its fan when you play 3D games. Without the video card, you could build a lower power system, the computer case wouldn't be an issue (even a piece of cheap junk would work). Putting in a 200W+ video card, means providing the necessities for it. It's like owning a big dog, and having to buy two cans of dog food per day. * * Paul Monster video card??? What do you do with such high tech $1,000 video card? Play video game emulating virtual reality monster in your face???? That's it huh... The giant 36" LCD screen display gorilla size of monster showing up in your screen and would make you damn scare. That's what big screen and high tech video card does for you by emulating virtual reality monster. |
#13
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
Red Cloud wrote:
On Apr 10, 3:22 am, Paul wrote: Metspitzer wrote: On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:53:55 -0400, Paul wrote: Ok I am going for it. I will get this chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...?Item=N82E1681 Once you move to the "monster video card" build, your build details and the character of the machine change a lot. You have a lot more fans present. The video card will speed up its fan when you play 3D games. Without the video card, you could build a lower power system, the computer case wouldn't be an issue (even a piece of cheap junk would work). Putting in a 200W+ video card, means providing the necessities for it. It's like owning a big dog, and having to buy two cans of dog food per day. Paul Monster video card??? What do you do with such high tech $1,000 video card? Play video game emulating virtual reality monster in your face???? That's it huh... The giant 36" LCD screen display gorilla size of monster showing up in your screen and would make you damn scare. That's what big screen and high tech video card does for you by emulating virtual reality monster. The high end cards help when the screen resolution is large. 2560 x 1600 would be high resolution. My video card is a 7900GT and my resolution is 1280x1024. So I'm hardly an "enthusiast". I'm not rich enough to afford the good stuff. Paul |
#14
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
On Apr 6, 5:44*pm, Metspitzer wrote:
My main reason for upgrading is to have around a 24" HD monitor to play 1080p files. *My nephew wants my old computer. *This will be the first time ever that I have no spare parts I want to use. Take something off the shelf seems like a good way to go. Anyone have any suggestions on how to spend the cash? I would rather spend on taking vacation than buying $1500 worth of computer. I can make what I need the system with less than 200 bucks. I don't need fancy, high tech latest model because I'm not that impressed with all the latest gadgets. For example, I don't like Windows 7. I could not even spend 1/10th of that money on new system... I tried to upgrade my old system but I was so disappointed new system has no AGP, secondary video output, extra PCI slot. They are all missing. On top of that, new system was not render faster than old system. |
#15
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 19:44:46 -0500, Metspitzer
wrote: My main reason for upgrading is to have around a 24" HD monitor to play 1080p files. My nephew wants my old computer. This will be the first time ever that I have no spare parts I want to use. Take something off the shelf seems like a good way to go. Anyone have any suggestions on how to spend the cash? Ok. This chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115070 This board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128475 This graphics card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102915 This memory cost 230 for 16 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231429 This memory cost 99 for 8 2 of these seems cheaper ??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231314 This power supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-006-_-Product This burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827135204 This case (I think a top fan is a bad idea) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147023 This drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227543 This mouse http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826105178 This keyboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-149-_-Product This monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824005203 I am keeping my mic/speakers What did I forget? What did I mismatch? |
#16
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
Metspitzer wrote:
On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 19:44:46 -0500, Metspitzer wrote: My main reason for upgrading is to have around a 24" HD monitor to play 1080p files. My nephew wants my old computer. This will be the first time ever that I have no spare parts I want to use. Take something off the shelf seems like a good way to go. Anyone have any suggestions on how to spend the cash? Ok. This chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115070 This board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128475 This graphics card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102915 This memory cost 230 for 16 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231429 This memory cost 99 for 8 2 of these seems cheaper ??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231314 This power supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-006-_-Product This burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827135204 This case (I think a top fan is a bad idea) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147023 This drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227543 This mouse http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826105178 This keyboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-149-_-Product This monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824005203 I am keeping my mic/speakers What did I forget? What did I mismatch? Core i7-2600K $314.99 GIGABYTE GA-H67A-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Intel H67 $139.99 (motherboard for QuickSync) HD 6970 2GB $364.99 F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL 4x4GB $229.99 CMPSU-750TX 12V @ 60A $109.99 ASUS DRW-24B1ST DVD Burner $ 20.99 OCZSSD2-2AGTE120G Sandforce 120GB 285 MB/s $204.99 Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000 $ 21.99 Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 $ 18.99 LG E2750VR-SN Black 27" 1920 x 1080 5ms LED $419.99 You need an OS to install! This would be enough to give you WinXP Mode $139.99. OEM means it'll be "locked" to this build. A "full" or "retail" would be transferable to another computer, but would cost more. Since you have 16GB of RAM, you want the 64 bit version. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116758 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_7_editions Total as you propose 314.99+139.99+364.99+229.99+109.99+20.99+204.99+21 .99+18.99+419.99+139.99= 1986.89 ******* The motherboard comes with two SATA cables. This is just enough to hook up the SSD drive and the DVD burner. The motherboard does not have an IDE connector or ribbon cable for IDE drive. http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-128-475-Z03?$S640W$ In terms of slot usage, you'll have a free PCI Express x1 up top. You could put a TV tuner in there. I don't think that would interfere with the back of the video card. The video card goes in the top blue slot. The video card is double width, so that covers the adjacent PCI Express x1. You'll likely end up leaving the second blue slot empty, so that the "blower" on the video card can pull air in easily. That leaves three PCI slots on the bottom. For sound, you can easily use the built-in sound. Or, if you want, later you can upgrade to a PCI sound card. I don't know if I'd waste that one accessible PCI Express x1 slot on a sound card. Right now, I'm using built-in sound on mine (because I don't have room for my PCI sound card). In terms of PCI Express lane count, you have x16 lanes on the primary video card slot. Those go directly to the processor. The chipset has 8 lanes total. The second video slot is wired x4, but if you plug a card into the PCI Express x1 slot (the one that's now covered by the video card), it drops the slot wiring on the second video slot to x1. This really isn't such a big deal. (It's only a problem if you wanted to use all the PCI Express slots available.) The block diagram in the users manual shows this detail, but is a bit hard to decipher. The lane switching is between the second PCI Express x1 and the second PCI Express video card slot, and doesn't involve the functioning of any other chips. This wouldn't be a great board for Crossfire (using two video cards), and the slot spacing wouldn't make that easy anyway. (I don't like the cards too close together.) ******* The four stick RAM kit is guaranteed to reach 9-9-9-24-2N DDR3-1600 @ 1.5V with all four sticks in place. F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=358 The two stick RAM kit is guaranteed to meet it's spec with two sticks, but with four sticks you can't be certain of the same thing. They sure look like the other sticks... 9-9-9-24-2N DDR3-1600 @ 1.5V F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=239 One reviewer on the Newegg site, using the 2 stick kit, had trouble mixing two kits together on the same motherboard and getting 1600. The reviewer got 1333 but not 1600 stable with 4 DIMMs total. If you could be happy with 1333, then you can always use two kits of the $99 ones. So maybe the four stick kit, really was tested as a set of four. There is no real reason for having 16GB of memory, but at least you'll be "future ready". You could make a very nice RAMDisk out of the excess. (To test, I installed 6GB on my motherboard here, and had a 2GB RAMDisk to play with. Sample bench is next.) http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8...am2gbabove.gif ******* Computer case side panel doesn't have an easy release latch. It's got thumb screws and slide action. I had a computer case in the past, that as it got older, the side got more and more difficult to remove. Of course, I take the sides off these things, a lot :-) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147023 "I was able to squeeze in my 260 GTX, though I had to place all my hds on the very bottom of the case." http://hothardware.com/Articles/XFX-...Black-Edition/ GTX 260 10.5" length http://www.legionhardware.com/articl...970_2gb,2.html HD 6970 27cm = 10.63" (some sites quote slightly longer) So the 6970 may fit in there. One reviewer for the Rosewill case, mentioned he fitted fans right up against the side vents. That's only practical if the case is wide enough for it. The case has an exterior dimension of 7.28", which does leave room for them, but if it was me, I'd want a bit more clearance. When fitting a fan to a vent area, sometimes you have to make a plenum or an adapter to get a good fit, and that eats up a bit of headroom. There is no reason to assume that is necessary at this point. This review for the video card type, shows it uses vapor chamber cooling with fins, and apparently vents all the air through the faceplate. Which is great if it is true. A lot of these monster cards, they vent out several places, and the less air they vent back inside the case, the less the cooling fans on the case have to work. Otherwise, you end up with the "warm cloud" problem. Even my pathetic little video card suffers from "warm cloud", and I had to add a cooling fan to move the cloud out of the way. When it comes to me reviewing cases for people, my philosophy is to try not to get too bent out of shape about them. There are hundreds of cases, and I don't like some of them. Not a big deal. It's a taste thing, and I have to allow some latitude for others to select things they like. The properties I like a steel with heavy weight metal for vibration damping, all metal screw fasteners (I hate tool-less plastic), rational cooling fan positioning (as if they could envision an air flow, rather than peppering all surfaces of the case with fans), smooth rectangular finish (no bulbous noses), no top fan (spilled drink resistance), sufficient internal space so there is room for my hands to work inside (8" case width, no crossbar to block access), some place to cable tie loose cables to, support lip to hold power supply (so there is no risk of it falling). Those are a few things. I usually remove the original fans the case comes with, and choose fans from the "junk pile" as required. If the build calls for more air, I fit a higher capacity fan. The biggest fan I've ever used on the back of the case, is 120mm square by 37.5mm deep, 110CFM (which is way overkill and deafening when run full power). My current build, being relatively low power, doesn't get a monster fan. It's got a Vantec Stealth bought locally. So, your case passes. I think your video card fits, but you can never be 100% sure, unless the review comments for the case include someone actually fitting that card. You can't have zero clearance on length, because sometimes you have to tilt the card a bit to guide it into place. Fortunately, the power connectors on your card, are located along the top edge, which is a good thing. (Uses a 2x3 and a 2x4). The four connectors on your power supply, can fit either 2x3 or 2x4. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...plus2index.jpg ******* The SSD includes a 3.5" adapter plate and four screws. The screws may fit into the bottom of the drive, then your toolless case fittings may hold the tray in place. Some people use nylon tie wraps to hold an SSD, which is another option. http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-agi...i-2-5-ssd.html The claim here is, the Agility II uses 34nm flash, but who is to say they haven't substituted 25nm flash instead. The most recent MLC devices, have a lower lifetime write count. http://www.anandtech.com/show/3667/o...-mp-firmware/2 OCZ switched over to 25nm flash, and you should know there are some subtle differences. A smart company would have assigned new SKUs to the products, so customers would know what they're getting. Now, I don't know whether this applies to Agility II, and the web page on the ocztechnology.com site doesn't tell me anything about the issue. http://www.storagereview.com/ocz_ver...czssd22vtxe60g More of the "smell" here. This has more to do with how you run a business, than anything else. A little dishonesty, goes a *long* way. http://forums.anandtech.com/showthre...2143367&page=4 ******* This mouse would match the color of your keyboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826105185 ******* For keyboards, I like to test them in a store if I can. That way, I can find one with the right feel (I like long travel, rather than short travel). ******* Video card ships with HDMI cable. Monitor has none. Monitor has VGA and DVI cables. DVI would work too. One review for your monitor selection, mentioned uneven lighting from top to bottom. The following monitor likely uses CCFL instead of LED lighting, but it gives you 1920x1200. Stand sucks. Speakers suck. You can fix the stand with wood blocks. (I use a stack of wood 7" thick for a monitor stand. You bolt planks together until you get the required positioning. It took 9 pieces of 3/4".) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824254052 HTH, Paul |
#17
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I have about 1500-2000 bucks to spend on a new computer
On Sun, 10 Apr 2011 22:09:15 -0400, Paul wrote:
Metspitzer wrote: On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 19:44:46 -0500, Metspitzer wrote: My main reason for upgrading is to have around a 24" HD monitor to play 1080p files. My nephew wants my old computer. This will be the first time ever that I have no spare parts I want to use. Take something off the shelf seems like a good way to go. Anyone have any suggestions on how to spend the cash? Ok. This chip http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115070 This board http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128475 This graphics card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102915 This memory cost 230 for 16 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231429 This memory cost 99 for 8 2 of these seems cheaper ??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231314 This power supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-006-_-Product This burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827135204 This case (I think a top fan is a bad idea) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147023 This drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227543 This mouse http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826105178 This keyboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-149-_-Product This monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824005203 I am keeping my mic/speakers What did I forget? What did I mismatch? Core i7-2600K $314.99 GIGABYTE GA-H67A-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Intel H67 $139.99 (motherboard for QuickSync) HD 6970 2GB $364.99 F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL 4x4GB $229.99 CMPSU-750TX 12V @ 60A $109.99 ASUS DRW-24B1ST DVD Burner $ 20.99 OCZSSD2-2AGTE120G Sandforce 120GB 285 MB/s $204.99 Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000 $ 21.99 Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 $ 18.99 LG E2750VR-SN Black 27" 1920 x 1080 5ms LED $419.99 You need an OS to install! This would be enough to give you WinXP Mode $139.99. OEM means it'll be "locked" to this build. A "full" or "retail" would be transferable to another computer, but would cost more. Since you have 16GB of RAM, you want the 64 bit version. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116758 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_7_editions Total as you propose 314.99+139.99+364.99+229.99+109.99+20.99+204.99+2 1.99+18.99+419.99+139.99= 1986.89 ******* The motherboard comes with two SATA cables. This is just enough to hook up the SSD drive and the DVD burner. The motherboard does not have an IDE connector or ribbon cable for IDE drive. http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/13-128-475-Z03?$S640W$ In terms of slot usage, you'll have a free PCI Express x1 up top. You could put a TV tuner in there. I don't think that would interfere with the back of the video card. The video card goes in the top blue slot. The video card is double width, so that covers the adjacent PCI Express x1. You'll likely end up leaving the second blue slot empty, so that the "blower" on the video card can pull air in easily. That leaves three PCI slots on the bottom. For sound, you can easily use the built-in sound. Or, if you want, later you can upgrade to a PCI sound card. I don't know if I'd waste that one accessible PCI Express x1 slot on a sound card. Right now, I'm using built-in sound on mine (because I don't have room for my PCI sound card). In terms of PCI Express lane count, you have x16 lanes on the primary video card slot. Those go directly to the processor. The chipset has 8 lanes total. The second video slot is wired x4, but if you plug a card into the PCI Express x1 slot (the one that's now covered by the video card), it drops the slot wiring on the second video slot to x1. This really isn't such a big deal. (It's only a problem if you wanted to use all the PCI Express slots available.) The block diagram in the users manual shows this detail, but is a bit hard to decipher. The lane switching is between the second PCI Express x1 and the second PCI Express video card slot, and doesn't involve the functioning of any other chips. This wouldn't be a great board for Crossfire (using two video cards), and the slot spacing wouldn't make that easy anyway. (I don't like the cards too close together.) ******* The four stick RAM kit is guaranteed to reach 9-9-9-24-2N DDR3-1600 @ 1.5V with all four sticks in place. F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=358 The two stick RAM kit is guaranteed to meet it's spec with two sticks, but with four sticks you can't be certain of the same thing. They sure look like the other sticks... 9-9-9-24-2N DDR3-1600 @ 1.5V F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=239 One reviewer on the Newegg site, using the 2 stick kit, had trouble mixing two kits together on the same motherboard and getting 1600. The reviewer got 1333 but not 1600 stable with 4 DIMMs total. If you could be happy with 1333, then you can always use two kits of the $99 ones. So maybe the four stick kit, really was tested as a set of four. There is no real reason for having 16GB of memory, but at least you'll be "future ready". You could make a very nice RAMDisk out of the excess. (To test, I installed 6GB on my motherboard here, and had a 2GB RAMDisk to play with. Sample bench is next.) http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8...am2gbabove.gif ******* Computer case side panel doesn't have an easy release latch. It's got thumb screws and slide action. I had a computer case in the past, that as it got older, the side got more and more difficult to remove. Of course, I take the sides off these things, a lot :-) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147023 "I was able to squeeze in my 260 GTX, though I had to place all my hds on the very bottom of the case." http://hothardware.com/Articles/XFX-...Black-Edition/ GTX 260 10.5" length http://www.legionhardware.com/articl...970_2gb,2.html HD 6970 27cm = 10.63" (some sites quote slightly longer) So the 6970 may fit in there. One reviewer for the Rosewill case, mentioned he fitted fans right up against the side vents. That's only practical if the case is wide enough for it. The case has an exterior dimension of 7.28", which does leave room for them, but if it was me, I'd want a bit more clearance. When fitting a fan to a vent area, sometimes you have to make a plenum or an adapter to get a good fit, and that eats up a bit of headroom. There is no reason to assume that is necessary at this point. This review for the video card type, shows it uses vapor chamber cooling with fins, and apparently vents all the air through the faceplate. Which is great if it is true. A lot of these monster cards, they vent out several places, and the less air they vent back inside the case, the less the cooling fans on the case have to work. Otherwise, you end up with the "warm cloud" problem. Even my pathetic little video card suffers from "warm cloud", and I had to add a cooling fan to move the cloud out of the way. When it comes to me reviewing cases for people, my philosophy is to try not to get too bent out of shape about them. There are hundreds of cases, and I don't like some of them. Not a big deal. It's a taste thing, and I have to allow some latitude for others to select things they like. The properties I like a steel with heavy weight metal for vibration damping, all metal screw fasteners (I hate tool-less plastic), rational cooling fan positioning (as if they could envision an air flow, rather than peppering all surfaces of the case with fans), smooth rectangular finish (no bulbous noses), no top fan (spilled drink resistance), sufficient internal space so there is room for my hands to work inside (8" case width, no crossbar to block access), some place to cable tie loose cables to, support lip to hold power supply (so there is no risk of it falling). Those are a few things. I usually remove the original fans the case comes with, and choose fans from the "junk pile" as required. If the build calls for more air, I fit a higher capacity fan. The biggest fan I've ever used on the back of the case, is 120mm square by 37.5mm deep, 110CFM (which is way overkill and deafening when run full power). My current build, being relatively low power, doesn't get a monster fan. It's got a Vantec Stealth bought locally. So, your case passes. I think your video card fits, but you can never be 100% sure, unless the review comments for the case include someone actually fitting that card. You can't have zero clearance on length, because sometimes you have to tilt the card a bit to guide it into place. Fortunately, the power connectors on your card, are located along the top edge, which is a good thing. (Uses a 2x3 and a 2x4). The four connectors on your power supply, can fit either 2x3 or 2x4. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...plus2index.jpg ******* The SSD includes a 3.5" adapter plate and four screws. The screws may fit into the bottom of the drive, then your toolless case fittings may hold the tray in place. Some people use nylon tie wraps to hold an SSD, which is another option. http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-agi...i-2-5-ssd.html The claim here is, the Agility II uses 34nm flash, but who is to say they haven't substituted 25nm flash instead. The most recent MLC devices, have a lower lifetime write count. http://www.anandtech.com/show/3667/o...-mp-firmware/2 OCZ switched over to 25nm flash, and you should know there are some subtle differences. A smart company would have assigned new SKUs to the products, so customers would know what they're getting. Now, I don't know whether this applies to Agility II, and the web page on the ocztechnology.com site doesn't tell me anything about the issue. http://www.storagereview.com/ocz_ver...czssd22vtxe60g More of the "smell" here. This has more to do with how you run a business, than anything else. A little dishonesty, goes a *long* way. http://forums.anandtech.com/showthre...2143367&page=4 ******* This mouse would match the color of your keyboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826105185 ******* For keyboards, I like to test them in a store if I can. That way, I can find one with the right feel (I like long travel, rather than short travel). ******* Video card ships with HDMI cable. Monitor has none. Monitor has VGA and DVI cables. DVI would work too. One review for your monitor selection, mentioned uneven lighting from top to bottom. The following monitor likely uses CCFL instead of LED lighting, but it gives you 1920x1200. Stand sucks. Speakers suck. You can fix the stand with wood blocks. (I use a stack of wood 7" thick for a monitor stand. You bolt planks together until you get the required positioning. It took 9 pieces of 3/4".) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824254052 HTH, Paul Thanks everyone. My machine is on the way. |
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