Failure to boot when installing new CPU.

removing the battery is not the way to clear the cmos, it is a shortcut
around the proper way. Shorting the jumper (when provided) is the only way
this should be done or did you do it this way? Your post was a little
unclear. Heck some people aren't even unplugging the ATX PSU while pulling
the battery.
Does the board support the new CPU speed with the current bios? Is the board
set to auto detect the CPU speed? Auto set FSB?


"Eric Bouchard" wrote in message
.. .
I hope someone can help me out with that one. First, this is my PC Setup:

Antec TruePower 330 Watts
Asus A7N8X (PCB 2.0)
CD-ROM & CD-RW
1x 512 Megs 333Mhz DDR Ram
ATI Radeon 9500 Pro
GCVL Internal ADSL Modem
40 Megs ATA/133 HD.

Here is what happens:

I have an old XP 1700+ and just bought a new 2700+. When I install the
2700+, I get a black screen. You see that the computer recognize the
CD-Roms and HD, but won't go on and no beeps. When I put back my old
1700+ in, it works just fine. We tried reset the CMOS, remove the
battery, double-checked every jumpers to see if all was ok, and it was.

Does anyone have an idea on what direction we should take to see what
could be the problem?

Thanks for your help.

Eric B.

You did not mention re-setting the BIOS and letting it find the new CPU.
JPS

"Eric Bouchard" wrote in message
.. .
I hope someone can help me out with that one. First, this is my PC Setup:

Antec TruePower 330 Watts
Asus A7N8X (PCB 2.0)
CD-ROM & CD-RW
1x 512 Megs 333Mhz DDR Ram
ATI Radeon 9500 Pro
GCVL Internal ADSL Modem
40 Megs ATA/133 HD.

Here is what happens:

I have an old XP 1700+ and just bought a new 2700+. When I install the
2700+, I get a black screen. You see that the computer recognize the
CD-Roms and HD, but won't go on and no beeps. When I put back my old
1700+ in, it works just fine. We tried reset the CMOS, remove the
battery, double-checked every jumpers to see if all was ok, and it was.

Does anyone have an idea on what direction we should take to see what
could be the problem?

Thanks for your help.

Eric B.

JAD wrote:
removing the battery is not the way to clear the cmos, it is a shortcut
around the proper way. Shorting the jumper (when provided) is the only way
this should be done or did you do it this way? Your post was a little
unclear. Heck some people aren't even unplugging the ATX PSU while pulling
the battery.

We did use the jumper to clear the CMOS. I am not sure that is the
problem actually.

Does the board support the new CPU speed with the current bios? Is the board
set to auto detect the CPU speed? Auto set FSB?

Yop. All the jumpers were properly set and the board is supposed to
auto detect the CPU. However, would it be possible that the problem is
caused by a power shortage? Would a 330 Watts PSU be able to power up
the system?

Eric B.

JimS wrote:

You did not mention re-setting the BIOS and letting it find the new CPU.
JPS

We did move the jumper for the Clear RTC RAM (CLRTC1) and put it back to
its place. I guess that is what you mean by ressetting the BIOS?

Eric B.

--
Remove "SPAM" to reply.
"Eric Bouchard" wrote in message
. ..
JAD wrote:
removing the battery is not the way to clear the cmos, it is a shortcut
around the proper way. Shorting the jumper (when provided) is the only
way
this should be done or did you do it this way? Your post was a little
unclear. Heck some people aren't even unplugging the ATX PSU while
pulling
the battery.

We did use the jumper to clear the CMOS. I am not sure that is the
problem actually.

Does the board support the new CPU speed with the current bios? Is the
board
set to auto detect the CPU speed? Auto set FSB?

Yop. All the jumpers were properly set and the board is supposed to
auto detect the CPU. However, would it be possible that the problem is
caused by a power shortage? Would a 330 Watts PSU be able to power up
the system?

The PSU is strong enough. If your board supports the CPU and you have
jumpers/BIOS set properly, I would say the CPU is bad. (Hope you made sure
heatsink and fan were properly installed, it will burn out in less then a
second)

Rob


Eric B.

On Sat, 05 Jul 2003 22:14:27 -0400, Eric Bouchard
wrote:

Yea, the guy who did it is used to installing hardware and all was
properly set in place (thermal paste and heatsink/fan).

I was asking for the PSU because when I opened Motherboard Monitor, this
is what I have as far as power goes:

+3.3 = 3.27 Avg
+5.0 = 4.95 Avg
+12.0 = 11.37 Avg

Just thought It seemed tight and It could explain why it didn't work.

Eric B.

The 12V reading should not be that low.
It could be helpful to use a multimeter to check the 12V reading on a
power supply plug. If it's still low, unplug all external devices
(like case fans and CDROM, HDD, etc) then power-up system, recheck 12V
level again with multimeter, and compare to the BIOS reading for 12V).


Dave

Just wanted to report back on my problem, in case

I brought the computer back to the store and it was determined that,
this particular motherboard had a defect that prevented it to work with
a 2700+, but was just working fine with the 1700+. Since the board was
under warranty, they replaced it.

Thanks for all your help. It was appreciated.

Eric B.