Tools needed to build my own PC

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 14:01:02 +0100, bbgruff wrote:

Grinder wrote:

It was just a glib quip. I had hoped it was fairly evident that I don't
think bbgruff is a crackhead.

I'm glad to hear it! :-)

I was wondering what you were all on about for a minute, but all becomes
clear now. My "torch" is what Americans call a "flashlight" - very small,
but useful when poking around deep inside a case.
Sorry the confusion (if there really was any), but another case of "Two
nations separated by a common language"? :-)


Boy, am I dumb. I just got it!!!

wrote:

What tools do I need to put together a PC (all suggestions welcome). Is
there a small, powered screwdriver, variable speed, for this sort of
thing? (I know I don't need a powered screwdriver for one computer - but
I like powered TOOLS!!! Hand tools? Workplace? Cleaners?

Is there a URL that is much better than the rest - that shows and
explains all the steps?

All you absolutely need is a #2 Philips screwdriver and a 1/4" nut
driver, but it's nice to have both short and long versions of each, to
reach tight spaces. There are 6-in-1 tools that include #1 and #2
Philips tips, small and large flat tips, and 1/4" and 5/16" nut
drivers ($3 at Home Depot for Buck Brothers brand with orange handle),
but, like power drivers, they can be too bulky for tight spaces.
It's also nice to have a pair of needle-nosed pliers for holding nuts
and retrieving tiny parts that fall into the nether regions of the
computer case.

If you have to work with ancient motherboards where the CPU heatsink
is attached with a clip that has to be pried off, use a flat-bladed,
3/16" wide screwdriver with straight (not curved) sides because other
screwdrivers won't pry off the clip as well and are more likely to
slip and gouge the circuit board. To prevent gouging, I place a piece
of thin steel (tin can is OK) underneath. I hammer the edges and file
them smooth so they won't cut into the copper traces. A piece of
aluminum won't prevent gouging nearly as well as steel.

You may want a file or some #320 sandpaper to smooth off razor sharp
edges inside the computer case. An American-made file is usually a
better bargain than a much cheaper Chinese one made of vastly inferior
steel that will get dull much sooner.

You want an anti-static table top, which you can make from a square
yard of anti-static bubble wrap or anti-static foam wrap or, for much
more money, with a rubber anti-static mat. Any of these will
probably protect computer components better than an anti-static wrist
strap used with a conventional table top, especially if you work in
short sleeves (you're more likely to elbow the anti-static surface and
discharge yourself). Try to work barefoot, too. Don't do the dumb
practice of plugging yourself into the AC ground connection of a wall
outlet or power strip because that can be dangerous if you contact
high voltage, and it's the reason anti-static wrist straps have one
megaohm of resistance in series with them.

Get a 3.5 digit (2000-count or higher) digital multimeter because it
will let you test batteries, power supplies, and cables. Even a $3
one from Harbor Freight is far more accurate than necessary. Don't
bother buying a power supply tester because the models that merely
light up LEDs are good only for telling if a voltage rail is
completely dead or not (one said my PSU was OK, even though it
wouldn't run the hard drive), while the ones with digits cost more
than a multimeter. You can provide a load with some 10 watt, 10-20
ohm resistors.

PC assembly guides can be found at:

http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/
http://techreport.com/articles.x/13671
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ng-pc,511.html

There are also lots of YouTube videos about building PCs.

wrote:

Isn't a magnetic tool possibly dangerous if it touches the wrong
component? Zaaaap!!!!!!!

It's the metal, not the magnetism, that can do harm, unless you're
working with those new-fangled CRT monitors that can display color.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 02:02:15 -0500, Grinder
wrote:

On 8/28/2010 12:08 AM, ToolPackinMama wrote:
On 8/27/2010 5:21 PM, Grinder wrote:

(1) A #2 Philips Screwdriver (not powered)
(1a) A #1 Philips Screwdriver for tiny screws
(2) A dozen 8" zip ties
(2a) 2 dozen 4" zip ties
(2b) diagonal wire cutters for cutting ends off zip ties
(3) A 5mm hex driver (maybe)
(3b) 1/4" hex driver (maybe)
(3c) 3/16 and 5/16 nut drivers (maybe)

Oh yeah the hex driver comes in handy sometimes.

You don't want power tools for that type of job. Not only is it
overkill, but over-tightening can cause serious problems sometimes.

Remember gents: finesse, not force!

That's high praise from a man who, eponymously, must know his tools.

To the OP:

Others have mentioned it, and it's brilliant, so I must amend my
original list:

(1) A #2 Philips Screwdriver (not powered)
(2) A high-powered flashlight
(3) A dozen 8" zip ties
(4) A 5mm hex driver (maybe)

A small pair of pliers, or 6" hemostats can also come in handy, but I'll
stick with my short list, above.

On 28/08/2010 4:47 AM, wrote:
OK, I'm back. Things are going slowly because of the pain in my head -
but they're moving forward.

What tools do I need to put together a PC (all suggestions welcome). Is
there a small, powered screwdriver, variable speed, for this sort of
thing? (I know I don't need a powered screwdriver for one computer - but
I like powered TOOLS!!! Hand tools? Workplace? Cleaners?

Is there a URL that is much better than the rest - that shows and
explains all the steps?

Thanks guys..............

Bob

Power screwdrivers tend to be too chunky to fit into a lot of places. A
magnetised long shaft philips head screwdriver (or bit kit with
magnetised bits - they really help get screws into positions properly
like between parts of a motherboard) and a pair of needle nose pliers
are all you really need. Even the pliers are not always essential, but
can be pretty handy for tightening standoffs a bit. A flat head
screwdriver is also handy, as is an LED flashlight (you might want to
get a little one that you can hold between your teeth, or get one of the
LED headlamp gadgets). You don't really need anything else than the
philips head screwdriver though.

Ari

--
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Many people around the world are waiting for a marrow transplant. Please
volunteer to be a marrow donor and literally save someone's life:
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On Aug 27, 4:47 pm, wrote:
OK, I'm back. Things are going slowly because of the pain in my head -

Sounds like David leaning over the edge after a long talk with
Professor Hobby in Artificial Intelligence.

Thanks guys..............

Think nothing of it....

Different philips screwdrivers - two, one big one small;- some screws
can use a little extra torque, and variously sized tips can come in
handydandy.

Mag-Demagnitzer - saves a lot of pain dropping those screws under a
mb;- some screwdrivers optionally have magnetic tips. Harbor Freight
or an electronics store will have magnetic stuff.

The hex driver for standoffs. I've a standard Xacto and a metric.
Both are complete sets, though mostly use one Xacto, which is close
enough to fit metric MB usual standoffs;- see, the Xacto has a
removable handle that fits over each handle driver size for more
torque, better grip/less fatigue if needed. Powered tools are OK,
although knowing tools and "the feel" never means I'm so sorry tearing
and rounding metal fits due to excess torque.

Long hemostat *and* short mini-tweezers.

Flashlight -- Cree LED 220 lumens one AA battery. The flashlight will
shine through the clip-on gooseneck lamp clamped to a computer case,
that's fitted with fluorescent twist 100W bulb and never breaks like a
tungsten;- the Cree also will find small things fallen to the carpet a
lot easier and quicker.

Contact cleaner or ink eraser occasionally for female slots and male
edge board contacts (WD40/60).

Alcohol, 1" artist's, 3" parts-cleaning, & tooth brush. Compressor
for "air jobs" on hopping dust bunny and the filthy veneers. Nice
bandname;- mine's a 60gal. Hausenfeld or something. Q-tips and a roll
of paper towels.

Garbage can ties when you really have to -- mylar pro-grade color-
coded cable straps for the ones you sell someone else;- they can cut
them with dykes invariably in eventuality in the way of something that
needs better/newer updating/moving.

Magnifiers. Two: one high-quality glass handheld, one swingarm with
attached light, neither of which are under 5" diameter. Look through
both in series for higher magnification. High powered reading glasses
(cheaters) and an occasional x40/20 jewelers loop.

Screw electrostatic comicbookman unless you're klutzman, shouldn't be
building in the first place, or work in a technical support centre
based out of Bambay, India;- the real BuilderMan doesn't need don The
Bracelet of Charm.

Mechanic's stethoscope;- for occasional extra quiet HDs and/or
performing the check of the dead-validity check (someone sees you with
long screwerdriver with the handle on the bone behind your ear,
listening to tip stuff, is probably going to do a doubletake and may
even freakout).

Torch is cool for shrinktube, so's a soldering iron, multimeter, and
third-hand clamps;- all the normal crap that stays in the toolbox
until it's needed. Dynamite are Singapore torches (including Cree
based electronics) using triple-filtered white gas (Bronson's
tradename at Wallyworld for a $2 tube);- rest will assuredly rip you
off good with a crap torch you won't want to return ship halfway round
a friggin' world.

Hope I didn't miss anybody.

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 18:58:07 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:21:53 -0500, Grinder
wrote:

On 8/27/2010 3:47 PM, wrote:
OK, I'm back. Things are going slowly because of the pain in my head -
but they're moving forward.

What tools do I need to put together a PC (all suggestions welcome). Is
there a small, powered screwdriver, variable speed, for this sort of
thing? (I know I don't need a powered screwdriver for one computer - but
I like powered TOOLS!!! Hand tools? Workplace? Cleaners?

Is there a URL that is much better than the rest - that shows and
explains all the steps?

Thanks guys..............

(1) A #2 Philips Screwdriver (not powered)
(2) A dozen 8" zip ties
(3) A 5mm hex driver (maybe)

I would think a computer would use more than one size nut/bolt than a 5mm
- no???
No, and that would probably only be needed for the case. Almost
everything can be done with the Philips screwdriver. The zip ties are
mainly in case you are a neatness freak. Most power supplies have the
cables bundled already.
--
Charlie Hoffpauir

Everything is what it is because it got that way....D'Arcy Thompson

On 8/28/2010 8:01 AM, bbgruff wrote:
Grinder wrote:

It was just a glib quip. I had hoped it was fairly evident that I don't
think bbgruff is a crackhead.

I'm glad to hear it! :-)

I was wondering what you were all on about for a minute, but all becomes
clear now. My "torch" is what Americans call a "flashlight" - very small,
but useful when poking around deep inside a case.
Sorry the confusion (if there really was any), but another case of "Two
nations separated by a common language"? :-)

I should really try to identify my jokes by making them funny.

In message Grinder
was claimed to have wrote:

The only time I need a hex driver is for motherboard standoffs.

Yup and in a pinch you can do those by hand.

I guess
there are different sizes, but I've seen a lot of 5mm (or maybe 3/16")
hexes.

They generally need to accept the same screw size, so they're pretty
standard these days.

In message Gary H
was claimed to have wrote:

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:50:46 -0600, peter wrote:

[snip]

usually the only tools needed are a Phillips Screwdriver A magnetic head
helps to hold the tiny little screws that are needed in some places.

In the majority of cases, I've found the opposite. Magnetic screwdrivers
will pull screws away from where you've placed them, then the screws fall
off into ungetatable (or at least unfindable) places.

While true, the trick is to not "place" screws where you want them, but
instead place them on the head of the screwdriver and use the screw
driver to place the screw.

I usually keep a magnetic and non-magnetic one around for those times
when a magnetic one is more trouble than it's worth, especially in close
quarters where the magnetic tip wants to attach itself to part of the
case rather than slip through a hole in the case to screw something
further down.

If I could only use one screw driver for a particular build, I'd take a
magnetic one. Also consider that if you do drop a screw in a difficult
to reach spot (between a couple video cards, for example), a magnetic
screw driver can be used to recover the screw.