Help: Building an Mini-ITX PC

On Nov 11, 11:08*pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a Foxconn RS0338 Mini-ITX case and an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
mainboard.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ds/EPIA_M10000

I've only put together ATX PCs before this and I cannot figure out
what hard drive and DVD player I need to get that would fit into this
case.

I can slide a DVD player into the case, but there is no way to secure
it even if there was a way to get a screw driver inside, because none
of the holes line up.

And as for the hard drive, is it plausible to use any laptop hard
drive with an ITX motherboard?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looking at your pictures, I think the whole drive mount bay might
unscrew off, letting you lift it up out of the case. Try removing
every single screw on the case and see if the drive mount can be
wiggled free. Many jigsaw puzzle type cases use tab and hooks to
secure a bracket, with only 1-2 screws to hold it into place.

If you can take it apart, there may be screw holes underneath,
designed to hold your DVD from the bottom. Alternately, with it apart,
you can always drill new mounting holes directly into the bracket.
--
// T.Hsu

In article , wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:08=A0pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a Foxconn RS0338 Mini-ITX case and an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
mainboard.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...N82E168111531=
13http://www.damnsmalllinux.org/store/motherboards/EPIA_M10000

I've only put together ATX PCs before this and I cannot figure out
what hard drive and DVD player I need to get that would fit into this
case.

I can slide a DVD player into the case, but there is no way to secure
it even if there was a way to get a screw driver inside, because none
of the holes line up.

And as for the hard drive, is it plausible to use any laptop hard
drive with an ITX motherboard?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looking at your pictures, I think the whole drive mount bay might
unscrew off, letting you lift it up out of the case. Try removing
every single screw on the case and see if the drive mount can be
wiggled free. Many jigsaw puzzle type cases use tab and hooks to
secure a bracket, with only 1-2 screws to hold it into place.

If you can take it apart, there may be screw holes underneath,
designed to hold your DVD from the bottom. Alternately, with it apart,
you can always drill new mounting holes directly into the bracket.


Ting is correct, it must slide out or something . I can see screw holes in the
bottom in this pic

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/produc...etail_overview.
aspx?ID=en-us0000153


Looks like it slides back 1 inch and then lifts out


What happens when you remove the screw right under the 3.5 drive bay, and the
screw right below the bottom right of the DVD drive? Does the cage lift up and
out?


http://i290.photobucket.
com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/FoxconnRS0338ITXCaseFront.jpg

On Nov 17, 10:04*pm, Paul wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:
On Nov 17, 8:12 pm, Paul wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:

Ok, this is where I'm at.
The hard drive is supposed to be put in upside down.
I'll have to use a hack saw or something to cut the back of the DVD
cage off. I just don't know if that will be enough, because the ram
will still be wedged up against the DVD player.
I'll also have to do the same to a card reader I have because the
floppy drive area is too small for a standard size floppy drive.
And I'll have to drill holes so I can secure both the DVD drive and
also the card reader in place, since there are no holes in the cages
for this.
Lastly, does anyone know the part number for the F-Panel connector
housing, so I can order it an replace the one it has?
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
At what point do you say "this project is taking too
much hack saw work" ? :-)

Surely there's a case out there, with bays the right
size for your goods.

http://www.mini-itx.com/store/?c=3

Not all of those cases will have review articles written
about them, and without good pictures of the interior,
you could end up in the same mess again, with the
"hack saw".

Building small stuff is tricky.

* * Paul

Apparently. But I'm going to stick with the case I already paid for.
Who is to say that the next one will be any different?

I just need to find out what kind of F-Panel connector goes connects
to a standard motherboard.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

You're referring to the front panel connector, where normally you
connect RESET switch, PWR switch, HDD LED, PWR LED as inputs and
outputs. On retail computers, the pin spacing is 0.1" on those,
they're all close spacing two pin assemblies, with 0.1" between pins.

On motherboards you buy at the store, a different standard is used.
An older standard. Speaker is a "four hole" shell, with the
two working wires having 0.3" between them.

When the case wiring doesn't match your new motherboard, you have
an option if the case connector is bigger than the motherboard pin pattern.

On Nov 18, 11:14*pm, (GMAN) wrote:
In article , wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:08=A0pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a Foxconn RS0338 Mini-ITX case and an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
mainboard.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...N82E168111531=
13http://www.damnsmalllinux.org/store/motherboards/EPIA_M10000

I've only put together ATX PCs before this and I cannot figure out
what hard drive and DVD player I need to get that would fit into this
case.

I can slide a DVD player into the case, but there is no way to secure
it even if there was a way to get a screw driver inside, because none
of the holes line up.

And as for the hard drive, is it plausible to use any laptop hard
drive with an ITX motherboard?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looking at your pictures, I think the whole drive mount bay might
unscrew off, letting you lift it up out of the case. Try removing
every single screw on the case and see if the drive mount can be
wiggled free. Many jigsaw puzzle type cases use tab and hooks to
secure a bracket, with only 1-2 screws to hold it into place.

If you can take it apart, there may be screw holes underneath,
designed to hold your DVD from the bottom. Alternately, with it apart,
you can always drill new mounting holes directly into the bracket.

Ting is correct, it must slide out or something . I can see screw holes in the
bottom in this pic

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/produc...etail_overview.
aspx?ID=en-us0000153

Looks like it slides back 1 inch and then lifts out

What happens when you remove the screw right under the 3.5 drive bay, and the
screw right below the bottom right of the DVD drive? Does the cage lift up and
out?

http://i290.photobucket.
com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/FoxconnRS0338ITXCaseFront.jpg

Thanks.

I actually did take those screws out. What I didn't know is that you
have to slide the chassis back a little before you can lift it
out. :-) That allowed me to get to the screw holes.

The only two problems left are finding out what F-Panel connector is
needed for the motherboard and more importantly I'm worried about
what's going to happen when I have to wedge the motherboard ram
tightly under the DVD cage. (Perhaps I can use a hammer to knock down
the motherboard risers some).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

In article , Searcher7 wrote:
On Nov 18, 11:14=A0pm, (GMAN) wrote:
In article =
..com, wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:08=3DA0pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a Foxconn RS0338 Mini-ITX case and an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
mainboard.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=3D3DN82E1681=
11531=3D
13http://www.damnsmalllinux.org/store/motherboards/EPIA_M10000

I've only put together ATX PCs before this and I cannot figure out
what hard drive and DVD player I need to get that would fit into this
case.

I can slide a DVD player into the case, but there is no way to secure
it even if there was a way to get a screw driver inside, because none
of the holes line up.

And as for the hard drive, is it plausible to use any laptop hard
drive with an ITX motherboard?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looking at your pictures, I think the whole drive mount bay might
unscrew off, letting you lift it up out of the case. Try removing
every single screw on the case and see if the drive mount can be
wiggled free. Many jigsaw puzzle type cases use tab and hooks to
secure a bracket, with only 1-2 screws to hold it into place.

If you can take it apart, there may be screw holes underneath,
designed to hold your DVD from the bottom. Alternately, with it apart,
you can always drill new mounting holes directly into the bracket.

Ting is correct, it must slide out or something . I can see screw holes i=
n the
bottom in this pic

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/produc...etail_overview.
aspx?ID=3Den-us0000153

Looks like it slides back 1 inch and then lifts out

What happens when you remove the screw right under the 3.5 drive bay, and=
the
screw right below the bottom right of the DVD drive? Does the cage lift u=
p and
out?

http://i290.photobucket.
com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/FoxconnRS0338ITXCaseFront.jpg

Thanks.

I actually did take those screws out. What I didn't know is that you
have to slide the chassis back a little before you can lift it
out. :-) That allowed me to get to the screw holes.

The only two problems left are finding out what F-Panel connector is
needed for the motherboard and more importantly I'm worried about
what's going to happen when I have to wedge the motherboard ram
tightly under the DVD cage. (Perhaps I can use a hammer to knock down
the motherboard risers some).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy a different DVD recorder? Just get one
shorter in length. They are all of $20

On Nov 19, 10:55*am, (GMAN) wrote:
In article , Searcher7 wrote:









On Nov 18, 11:14=A0pm, (GMAN) wrote:
In article =
..com, wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:08=3DA0pm, Searcher7 wrote:
I have a Foxconn RS0338 Mini-ITX case and an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
mainboard.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=3D3DN82E1681=
11531=3D
13http://www.damnsmalllinux.org/store/motherboards/EPIA_M10000

I've only put together ATX PCs before this and I cannot figure out
what hard drive and DVD player I need to get that would fit into this
case.

I can slide a DVD player into the case, but there is no way to secure
it even if there was a way to get a screw driver inside, because none
of the holes line up.

And as for the hard drive, is it plausible to use any laptop hard
drive with an ITX motherboard?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Looking at your pictures, I think the whole drive mount bay might
unscrew off, letting you lift it up out of the case. Try removing
every single screw on the case and see if the drive mount can be
wiggled free. Many jigsaw puzzle type cases use tab and hooks to
secure a bracket, with only 1-2 screws to hold it into place.

If you can take it apart, there may be screw holes underneath,
designed to hold your DVD from the bottom. Alternately, with it apart,
you can always drill new mounting holes directly into the bracket.

Ting is correct, it must slide out or something . I can see screw holes i=
n the
bottom in this pic

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/produc...etail_overview.
aspx?ID=3Den-us0000153

Looks like it slides back 1 inch and then lifts out

What happens when you remove the screw right under the 3.5 drive bay, and=
the
screw right below the bottom right of the DVD drive? Does the cage lift u=
p and
out?

http://i290.photobucket.
com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/FoxconnRS0338ITXCaseFront.jpg

Thanks.

I actually did take those screws out. What I didn't know is that you
have to slide the chassis back a little before you can lift it
out. :-) That allowed me to get to the screw holes.

The only two problems left are finding out what F-Panel connector is
needed for the motherboard and more importantly I'm worried about
what's going to happen when I have to wedge the motherboard ram
tightly under the DVD cage. (Perhaps I can use a hammer to knock down
the motherboard risers some).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy a different DVD recorder? Just get one
shorter in length. They are all of $20

I did. I picked up a used one a couple days ago and it is a little
shorter than the one I initially wanted to use, and therefore no
longer fits the fan.

But that changes nothing as for as me having to wedge the motherboard
ram in it's slot up under the DVD cage.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7 wrote:


Thanks.

But you didn't have to write all that. All I need is the part number
for the connector I need. (The connector that goes to the
motherboard).

I can remove the pins from the F-Panel connector. I just need the
connector to put them in.

So what I think you're telling me, is the Foxconn doesn't use discrete
wire pairs ? Retail computer cases, have a wiring harness with twisted
pair cables. For example, I might see an orange-white twisted pair,
a 1x4 nylon shell, and the text "SPKR" printed on the nylon shell. I then
slide that 1x4, onto the appropriate four pins of the panel header.
It means four or five discrete twisted pairs, plus their nylons shells,
connect to the panel header.

Asus speeded up the insertion of those wire pairs, by including an
intermediary assembly, which makes it easier to put the wires in the
right places.

On a OEM computer (Dell, HP, Acer etc), it's possible for them to
use a monolithic block, with all the wires coming into a 2x5 shell.
Then, that shell, with one keying pin, is used to guide assembly.
You push the 2x5 down onto a precisely 2x5 header on the motherboard.
That's how you'd do it on a Dell or HP. They do that, to speed up
final assembly in their factory.

But on DIY systems, the computer case tends to have separate twisted
pairs with a connector on the end. And it is possible to change the
pin spacing, if you needed to change a 1x4 "SPKR" into a 1x2 "SPKR".

It sounds to me, like you've discovered a 2x5 monolithic block on the
Foxconn cable assembly, and you're asking "how do I join this to my
goofy 2x8 header" ?

If that were the case, you'd try to get a 2x8 shell, and move the
Foxconn wires and pins into it. The 2x8 is the biggest one FrontX sells.
Shells like this might be available on Mouser or Digikey, as examples
of other potential sources. But then, I'd have to go looking through
a 1000 page catalog.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html


(Also, it appears that the front panel pins specification of the case
cannot be found. (So I assume figuring this out would be a matter of
trial and error)

A Foxconn tech sent me this link:
http://www.foxconnsupport.com/downlo...eywords=&sort=

But it doesn't seem to help much.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Maybe the reason the Foxconn tech sent it, is that barebones uses the RS-338,
and the motherboard in the barebones has the same pinout, and using
the barebones motherboard pinout, you can figure it out ? It's a stretch.

If I take the document in question (downloads at 10KB/sec and takes eons !),
I can zoom in and see this.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4835/g41skfphdr.gif

switch??? LED ???????
/ \ / \
(key) blue blue red-minus red-plus
NC green green orange-minus orange-plus
\ / \ /
switch??? LED ???????

It looks like an OEM-like pattern, like you might find in an HP.
Perhaps the PANEL cable from your Foxconn case, has a 2x5 on the end ?

Now, if I download the manual for the motherboard mentioned in the
Foxconn tech's reference, I see this.

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/driver...al-En-V1.0.zip

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3513/g41manual.gif

which refines the drawing above like this.

ResetSW - HDD_LED +
/ \ / \
(key) blue blue red-minus red-plus
NC green green orange-minus orange-plus
\ / \ /
PowerSW - PWR_LED +

See if that makes sense. You'll need to insert your four
twisted pairs and eight pins, into a 2x8 shell, if you
want a nice neat solution. So when you pull the four pairs
from the above 2x5 block diagram, they'll go into a 2x8 shell
like this. I don't know if your mini-itx uses an onboard
buzzer for SPKR, in which case there'd be no need for a
1x4 header on the mini-itx board. If there is a piezo buzzer,
then there is no need of SPKR.

Pin Signal Pin Signal
1 PWR_LED+ 2 HDD_LED+ \___ HDD activity LED
Power LED ___/3 PWR_LED+ 4 HDD_LED- / (1x2) Note: LEDS are polarized.
(1x2) \5 PWR_LED- 6 PW_BN+ \___ 1x2 connector for POWER button
7 SPEAKER+ 8 PW_BN- / (This switch is not polarized.)
9 10 RESET+ \___ 1x2 connector for RESET button
11 12 RESET- / (This switch is not polarized.)
13 SPEAKER- 14 SLED+
15 (KEY) 16 SLED-

Paul

On Nov 19, 1:22*pm, Paul wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:

Thanks.

But you didn't have to write all that. All I need is the part number
for the connector I need. (The connector that goes to the
motherboard).

I can remove the pins from the F-Panel connector. I just need the
connector to put them in.

So what I think you're telling me, is the Foxconn doesn't use discrete
wire pairs ? Retail computer cases, have a wiring harness with twisted
pair cables. For example, I might see an orange-white twisted pair,
a 1x4 nylon shell, and the text "SPKR" printed on the nylon shell. I then
slide that 1x4, onto the appropriate four pins of the panel header.
It means four or five discrete twisted pairs, plus their nylons shells,
connect to the panel header.

Asus speeded up the insertion of those wire pairs, by including an
intermediary assembly, which makes it easier to put the wires in the
right places.

On a OEM computer (Dell, HP, Acer etc), it's possible for them to
use a monolithic block, with all the wires coming into a 2x5 shell.
Then, that shell, with one keying pin, is used to guide assembly.
You push the 2x5 down onto a precisely 2x5 header on the motherboard.
That's how you'd do it on a Dell or HP. They do that, to speed up
final assembly in their factory.

But on DIY systems, the computer case tends to have separate twisted
pairs with a connector on the end. And it is possible to change the
pin spacing, if you needed to change a 1x4 "SPKR" into a 1x2 "SPKR".

It sounds to me, like you've discovered a 2x5 monolithic block on the
Foxconn cable assembly, and you're asking "how do I join this to my
goofy 2x8 header" ?

If that were the case, you'd try to get a 2x8 shell, and move the
Foxconn wires and pins into it. The 2x8 is the biggest one FrontX sells.
Shells like this might be available on Mouser or Digikey, as examples
of other potential sources. But then, I'd have to go looking through
a 1000 page catalog.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html



(Also, it appears that the front panel pins specification of the case
cannot be found. (So I assume figuring this out would be a matter of
trial and error)

A Foxconn tech sent me this link:
http://www.foxconnsupport.com/downlo...s0000047&categ....

But it doesn't seem to help much.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Maybe the reason the Foxconn tech sent it, is that barebones uses the RS-338,
and the motherboard in the barebones has the same pinout, and using
the barebones motherboard pinout, you can figure it out ? It's a stretch.

If I take the document in question (downloads at 10KB/sec and takes eons !),
I can zoom in and see this.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4835/g41skfphdr.gif

* * * * * * * * switch??? * * *LED ???????
* * * * * * * * */ * * \ * * */ * * * * * \
* * * * (key) * blue *blue * red-minus * *red-plus
* * * * *NC * * green green *orange-minus orange-plus
* * * * * * * * *\ * * / * * *\ * * * * * /
* * * * * * * * switch??? * * *LED ???????

It looks like an OEM-like pattern, like you might find in an HP.
Perhaps the PANEL cable from your Foxconn case, has a 2x5 on the end ?

Now, if I download the manual for the motherboard mentioned in the
Foxconn tech's reference, I see this.

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/driver...d%5CIntel%5CSo...

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3513/g41manual.gif

which refines the drawing above like this.

* * * * * * * * ResetSW * * * - HDD_LED *+
* * * * * * * * */ * * \ * * */ * * * * * \
* * * * (key) * blue *blue * red-minus * *red-plus
* * * * *NC * * green green *orange-minus orange-plus
* * * * * * * * *\ * * / * * *\ * * * * * /
* * * * * * * * PowerSW * * * - PWR_LED *+

See if that makes sense. You'll need to insert your four
twisted pairs and eight pins, into a 2x8 shell, if you
want a nice neat solution. So when you pull the four pairs
from the above 2x5 block diagram, they'll go into a 2x8 shell
like this. I don't know if your mini-itx uses an onboard
buzzer for SPKR, in which case there'd be no need for a
1x4 header on the mini-itx board. If there is a piezo buzzer,
then there is no need of SPKR.

* * * * * * * * Pin * Signal * Pin * Signal
* * * * * * * * 1 * *PWR_LED+ * 2 * HDD_LED+ \___ HDD activity LED
* Power LED ___/3 * *PWR_LED+ * 4 * HDD_LED- / * *(1x2) Note: LEDS are polarized.
* (1x2) * * * *\5 * *PWR_LED- * 6 * PW_BN+ \___ 1x2 connector for POWER button
* * * * * * * * 7 * *SPEAKER+ * 8 * PW_BN- / * *(This switch is not polarized.)
* * * * * * * * 9 * * * * * * *10 * RESET+ \___ 1x2 connector for RESET button
* * * * * * * * 11 * * * * * * 12 * RESET- / * *(This switch is not polarized.)
* * * * * * * * 13 * SPEAKER- *14 * SLED+
* * * * * * * * 15 * (KEY) * * 16 * SLED-

* * Paul

As for the link the Foxconn tech sent me, evidently this case is used
in some systems they build. But the motherboard is not the same as the
one I am using, so those pin-outs won't work.

This is my motherboard:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...oboF-Panel.jpg

The pin spacing of the case's 10-pin F-Panel connector is the same as
the pin spacing on my motherboard. If it weren't for the key It would
cover positions 1 through 10.

Though I don't want to have to order from China, I assume two of these
1x8 headers would cover all the pins I need:
www.ebay.com/itm/150359576877

I'd just remove the leads from the present header and insert them into
those.

(I do know there are a total of 8 wires I'll need to connect).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7 wrote:

As for the link the Foxconn tech sent me, evidently this case is used
in some systems they build. But the motherboard is not the same as the
one I am using, so those pin-outs won't work.

This is my motherboard:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...oboF-Panel.jpg

The pin spacing of the case's 10-pin F-Panel connector is the same as
the pin spacing on my motherboard. If it weren't for the key It would
cover positions 1 through 10.

Though I don't want to have to order from China, I assume two of these
1x8 headers would cover all the pins I need:
www.ebay.com/itm/150359576877

I'd just remove the leads from the present header and insert them into
those.

(I do know there are a total of 8 wires I'll need to connect).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The shell is on 0.1" centers. When you say the pin spacing mates,
that's the parameter you'd check before buying another shell. Also,
a common dimension, is the pin on the motherboard is likely 0.025"
or "25thou square". I think that is what I'm seeing in all the catalog
entries I've looked at so far, 0.025.

One description for what you want is:

Standard Dual Row Crimp Housing 2.54

2.54mm Pitch SL Crimp Housing, Dual Row, Version A, Non-polarized, 16 Circuits

The 2.54 refers to 2.54mm or 0.1 inches. The reason they use
millimeters, is another popular spacing is 2.00mm, so they quote
both of them in millimeters. There is also a larger one, 0.156"
but right off hand I don't know the metric dimension for that.
In any case, what you're looking for, is a 2.54 one.

I can find the shells, no problem. What I have to be careful of, is the
pin design and the pin retention feature. The shells you and I have in
front of us, have a plastic "flap" that when you deflect it outwards
slightly, the pin can be pulled out of the shell. When I go shopping,
I can't find one with the flap. I can find one with a small hole,
and the one with the small hole, takes a pin with a "spur" on the
back of it. The "spur" snaps into place, and is harder to get back out
again than the flap design. A shell expecting a "spur", won't work with
a pin that expects a "flap". If you don't match these things right,
the pin either won't fit, or the pin won't stay put in the shell.

So I can't just grab the first shell I find for sale. That's the problem
with searching in a 2800 page PDF catalog.

If I were to buy a shell and the matching pin that goes with it,
and re-terminate the wire and pin, then the scheme works, guaranteed.
As long as the pin seats on a 0.025" square pin, then I'd be done
this exercise. But some of the pins, I have some experience with them.
One of the pins I just located, is a non-favorite of mine. What
it does, is you push the header down into place, and then you can't
get it off again. It has tremendous retention force. And that one
sucks. I had some of those in the lab, and they're a nightmare.
Lots of cussing. Of course, manufacturing love them (because
they don't fall off). But they're not right for lab work
(or home usage either). Being able to take it off later is important.

So when I see the right one on FrontX.com, I'm just tempted to buy it and
a set of pins and be done with it. Buying the pins is insurance, in
case the existing pins don't fit in the shell.

I'm not good at selecting these things, and it takes me *hours* to find
the right one. At least the "crimp housing" search term might help you.

You can see this one has the flap.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html

And these are the pins. You don't have to use the pins, unless your
Foxconn provided pins won't fit the new shell. This looks to be the
same pin, as is on my Antec cable assembly. I have no idea who makes
these pins. If I did, it might allow narrowing the choice, to something
on Digikey or Mouser.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx076.html

The FrontX site says they're in Ohio.

Paul

On Nov 19, 9:38*pm, Paul wrote:
Searcher7 wrote:
As for the link the Foxconn tech sent me, evidently this case is used
in some systems they build. But the motherboard is not the same as the
one I am using, so those pin-outs won't work.

This is my motherboard:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Computer/Mobo...

The pin spacing of the case's 10-pin F-Panel connector is the same as
the pin spacing on my motherboard. If it weren't for the key It would
cover positions 1 through 10.

Though I don't want to have to order from China, I assume two of these
1x8 headers would cover all the pins I need:
www.ebay.com/itm/150359576877

I'd just remove the leads from the present header and insert them into
those.

(I do know there are a total of 8 wires I'll need to connect).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The shell is on 0.1" centers. When you say the pin spacing mates,
that's the parameter you'd check before buying another shell. Also,
a common dimension, is the pin on the motherboard is likely 0.025"
or "25thou square". I think that is what I'm seeing in all the catalog
entries I've looked at so far, 0.025.

One description for what you want is:

* * Standard Dual Row Crimp Housing 2.54

* * 2.54mm Pitch SL Crimp Housing, Dual Row, Version A, Non-polarized, 16 Circuits

The 2.54 refers to 2.54mm or 0.1 inches. The reason they use
millimeters, is another popular spacing is 2.00mm, so they quote
both of them in millimeters. There is also a larger one, 0.156"
but right off hand I don't know the metric dimension for that.
In any case, what you're looking for, is a 2.54 one.

I can find the shells, no problem. What I have to be careful of, is the
pin design and the pin retention feature. The shells you and I have in
front of us, have a plastic "flap" that when you deflect it outwards
slightly, the pin can be pulled out of the shell. When I go shopping,
I can't find one with the flap. I can find one with a small hole,
and the one with the small hole, takes a pin with a "spur" on the
back of it. The "spur" snaps into place, and is harder to get back out
again than the flap design. A shell expecting a "spur", won't work with
a pin that expects a "flap". If you don't match these things right,
the pin either won't fit, or the pin won't stay put in the shell.

So I can't just grab the first shell I find for sale. That's the problem
with searching in a 2800 page PDF catalog.

If I were to buy a shell and the matching pin that goes with it,
and re-terminate the wire and pin, then the scheme works, guaranteed.
As long as the pin seats on a 0.025" square pin, then I'd be done
this exercise. But some of the pins, I have some experience with them.
One of the pins I just located, is a non-favorite of mine. What
it does, is you push the header down into place, and then you can't
get it off again. It has tremendous retention force. And that one
sucks. I had some of those in the lab, and they're a nightmare.
Lots of cussing. Of course, manufacturing love them (because
they don't fall off). But they're not right for lab work
(or home usage either). Being able to take it off later is important.

So when I see the right one on FrontX.com, I'm just tempted to buy it and
a set of pins and be done with it. Buying the pins is insurance, in
case the existing pins don't fit in the shell.

I'm not good at selecting these things, and it takes me *hours* to find
the right one. At least the "crimp housing" search term might help you.

You can see this one has the flap.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html

And these are the pins. You don't have to use the pins, unless your
Foxconn provided pins won't fit the new shell. This looks to be the
same pin, as is on my Antec cable assembly. I have no idea who makes
these pins. If I did, it might allow narrowing the choice, to something
on Digikey or Mouser.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx076.html

The FrontX site says they're in Ohio.

* * Paul

I think things are pretty standard and will stick to what is available
from somewhere like Ebay.

In fact I have an extra cable from one of the card readers I have.
It's 2x5 on the end that plugs into the card reader and on the other
end there are two 1x5 connectors. I may be able to change the wires
around and use it before looking for pins and housings to purchase.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...CardReader.jpg

(Again, it'll be trial and error until I get all the lights and
switches on the front panel working).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.