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#31
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
wrote in message
ups.com... wrote: Jan Alter wrote: CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't -- Jan Alter Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today. I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return the PSU I just bought. Jack thanks, Jack Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires (reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector? Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly. Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios, by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the jumper and replacing it. Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they are the problem it will then show up later. If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though nothing should be discoounted. -- Jan Alter or |
#32
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
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#34
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
On 16 Dec 2006 08:51:02 -0800, wrote:
wrote: Jan Alter wrote: CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't -- Jan Alter Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today. I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return the PSU I just bought. If your old 200W PSU was modern, such that it had a large % of it's capacity on the 12V rail, it might work. Otherwise, "maybe" it'll work but the odds are a lot lower. If your board has the standard 24 pin connector, you can connect a standard 20 pin PSU plug, the other 4 positions are redundant, meant to deliver more current but this isn't really a necessary thing on a system that isn't using a lot of power. Before you disconnect that new PSU, unplug it from AC, clear the CMOS, then retry it. If you have a multimeter handy then measure battery voltage, or if you have a spare battery, swap it in, and retry with any or all PSU. If you did manage to get it working with the old 200W PSU, I'd not run it long term like that, it'll likely be short lived with the load of a modern system. |
#35
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
Jan Alter wrote: wrote in message ups.com... wrote: Jan Alter wrote: CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't -- Jan Alter Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today. I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return the PSU I just bought. Jack thanks, Jack Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires (reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector? Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly. Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios, by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the jumper and replacing it. Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they are the problem it will then show up later. If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though nothing should be discoounted. -- Jan Alter or Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2 parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4 pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly. But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket! Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and of course the unit stayed on. So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting this thing up and running. So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted and loaded ok. Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem, Jack |
#36
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
wrote in message ups.com... Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2 parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4 pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly. But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket! Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and of course the unit stayed on. So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting this thing up and running. So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted and loaded ok. Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem, Jack ------------------------------------------------ Glad to hear it, Jack. We were all sure that your power hookups were OK, as it was mentioned to check them several times, and you had confirmed that they were OK. I still say try to exchange the memory you have for compatible memory for your motherboard; you will run into ongoing problems with under-powering that 2.2V memory. Let us know how everything goes, Russell http://tastycomputers.com |
#37
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
wrote in message ups.com... Jan Alter wrote: wrote in message ups.com... wrote: Jan Alter wrote: CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't -- Jan Alter Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today. I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return the PSU I just bought. Jack thanks, Jack Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires (reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector? Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly. Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios, by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the jumper and replacing it. Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they are the problem it will then show up later. If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though nothing should be discoounted. -- Jan Alter or Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2 parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4 pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly. But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket! Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and of course the unit stayed on. So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting this thing up and running. So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted and loaded ok. Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem, Jack I have to say that this is the first time I have seen a system that powered up but didn't STAY running because the AUX 12 wasn't plugged in...it simply should not have fired up. But goes to show ya... |
#38
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
wrote in message
ups.com... Jan Alter wrote: wrote in message ups.com... wrote: Jan Alter wrote: CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't -- Jan Alter Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go out and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today. I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return the PSU I just bought. Jack thanks, Jack Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires (reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector? Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly. Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios, by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the jumper and replacing it. Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they are the problem it will then show up later. If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though nothing should be discoounted. -- Jan Alter or Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2 parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4 pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly. But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket! Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and of course the unit stayed on. So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting this thing up and running. So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted and loaded ok. Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem, Jack Yeh, those revolations usually come only after a lot of self torture. But,... it contributes to great character building. -- Jan Alter or |
#39
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
RussellS remembered about memory: ---------------------------------------------------------- Yes. Use different memory that is compatible with that board, as I said in 2 previous posts. That 2.2V memory is not supported by your motherboard. Take my word for it; that is the problem. Russell http://tastycomputers.com Yah, best I see for put-out is 1.95v, even with later bios. |
#40
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Newly Built Computer Won't Stay On
Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2 parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4 pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly. But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket! Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and of course the unit stayed on. So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting this thing up and running. So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted and loaded ok. Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem, Jack Yeh, those revolations usually come only after a lot of self torture. But,... it contributes to great character building. -- Jan Alter or Yes, my character was built up greatly during this execise. Well, I just booted up, formatted, and installed Windows, so I believe I am off and running. Thanks again to all for the helpful advice. Jack |
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