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#21
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No Video from PC
On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 21:24:12 -0500, Paul
wrote: And this teaches us, that "resistance" or "heating" circuits must be welded together for safety, not soldered. Tell that to the Italians. The base "pro" model to this: https://www.lapavoni.com/en/product/milano-mln/ I have, is maybe 10-years-old. Total hell for an appliance, daily cycling hot and cold to steam pressurized boiler water. A rebuild on commercial equipment of this nature may involve a torch for "stretching" loose metal from an amount of possible corrosion build-up to mechanical connections. Lugs and dedicated standoff plastic screw-in receptacles are used for routing power, within in the base beneath the boiler. My toaster oven was very safe, when it passed away, but all the internal components were made of high temperature metals, and the components were welded together with a spot welder. This makes it impossible for home repair guys to fix it with tin/lead solder and twisting some wires together. The solder can get hot enough in service, to melt and drop off. Probably what I got, when this all-aluminum Panasonic went on a sale for half off ... https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-NB-.../dp/B008C9UFDI If you do decide to rewire it, think about all the ways *not* to re-wire it. Wiring low-current loads is a lot easier and (apparently) safer, than high current loads. I'm only after one effect: the most possible insulation and added ruggedness possible. I'll be using heatshrink sparingly and with an idea to location, stress and usage, and the heaviest insulated wire I can find. When I built my stereo amp for my second computer, to run conventional speakers, I placed a cartridge fuse on the AC input. Just for "luck", if you know what I mean. There is not a lot of power there, but there is a potential for Formica-burning mayhem, given an opportunity. It's way past that point for this espresso maker. The boiler is basically solid, besides eventual gaskets for presently light leaks. That's the "business end": the 115V heater element brings it up to 15bar pressure, inside, measured by the manometer, the gauge to the side top, on the Italian pictures. The next critical step will tearing down the "group head", where the water is routed to the coffee;- it's also leaking, (only when fully extended and briefly at the top), from the top core stem driving the piston inside the group head. That makes "pre-soaks" pretty much an untenable technique. There's a whole "elitist" groups on sites dedicated to this stuff, as well a fair market for used renovations on Ebay. Mine, what I've in mind for the shape it's in -- on Ebay, anyone would immediately run away, in a flat-out sprint. It's beyond cartridge fuses. It's going to be direct AC wiring to the boiler element with a minimum of a switch. Totally stand over it while in operation. Preferably on insulated rubber-sole boots. Toolmaker caliber thinking and potentially dangerous for an otherwise UL consumer nightmare. In espresso-making terminology it's called "surfing" (the temperatures) on top of an extraction. Despite the looks, it actually can taste darn pretty good when done right. I guess, I'm certainly no Barista with my operation, although I do enjoy that machine with imported green coffee beans, I roast, from all over the world! |
#22
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No Video from PC
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 00:44:52 -0500, Flasherly wrote:
| On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 21:24:12 -0500, Paul | wrote: | | And this teaches us, that "resistance" or "heating" circuits must | be welded together for safety, not soldered. | | Tell that to the Italians. The base "pro" model to this: | https://www.lapavoni.com/en/product/milano-mln/ | I have, is maybe 10-years-old. Total hell for an appliance, daily | cycling hot and cold to steam pressurized boiler water. A rebuild on | commercial equipment of this nature may involve a torch for | "stretching" loose metal from an amount of possible corrosion build-up | to mechanical connections. Lugs and dedicated standoff plastic | screw-in receptacles are used for routing power, within in the base | beneath the boiler. | | My toaster oven was | very safe, when it passed away, but all the internal components were | made of high temperature metals, and the components were welded | together with a spot welder. This makes it impossible for | home repair guys to fix it with tin/lead solder and twisting | some wires together. The solder can get hot enough in service, | to melt and drop off. | | Probably what I got, when this all-aluminum Panasonic went on a sale | for half off ... | https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-NB-.../dp/B008C9UFDI That's the kind of stuff I like to buy. I'm still using a Panasonic microwave oven I bought 24 years ago. It's had almost daily use and still works as well as it did on the first day. Larc |
#23
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No Video from PC
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:21:33 -0500, Larc
wrote: That's the kind of stuff I like to buy. I'm still using a Panasonic microwave oven I bought 24 years ago. It's had almost daily use and still works as well as it did on the first day. People like you, the reviews I was reading when I came across the Panasonic, are the only reason I became interested and bought it. That and the sale price. I enjoy it now, lightweight aluminum and easy to carry, access and cleaning accounted in design. Also worth forgoing conventional toaster and settings, as I mostly now bake my own breads;- wheat and whole grains are denser breads for toasting purposes. Billed as well for an oven, though, its limited there, as I see it, with the heating elements not well suited for messy preparations that splatter or drip. No luck here with microwaves. Back then, a better brand I thought to select gave up after ten years. Obviously not as good as Panasonic. But basic microwaves are next to nothing now;- boring once sized, provided the magnetron continues to retain its power. Dropping some bucks on real features, maybe entails maybe a newer hybrid microwave and convention setup. Dunno. Haven't looked into it yet. The two or three units prior, my last was $50, for the time before breaking down, is reasonable for Walmart sale-of-the-day stuff. |
#25
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul Because of what you said I'll have to find another site to host my pics. Photobucket has always bogged down my pc like no other site. I can have a dozen tabs open with no problem, but a single Photobucket window would bring any computer to it's knees. And to make things worse: https://petapixel.com/2017/07/01/pho...-embedded-web/ They just went from free to $400 to host your photos for a year. Now since you can only download one of your own images at a time and there is a 20 image limit, it seems as though they are either shutting down or drastically changing the business model and this is a final shakedown. "...from hell's heart I stab at thee." Anyway, I picked up some Energizer CR2032 batteries only to find the computer has started powering on again. Nevertheless, I still get no beep/s whatsoever when I power on with the memory removed. Not from the motherboard and not from the headphones when plugged into the front or back of the case. I'm assuming the piezo transducer speakers I have will make no difference, correct? The last thing I can think of is re-seating the CPU. I can't re-seat all the cables until I figure out a way to get the case all the way open. But then I guess checking the main power connector with my Multimeter is all I can do. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. You connect the speaker to the 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. That's where the beeping is supposed to come out. The Line Out for the stereo speakers you use for multimedia, doesn't get that beep. There are actually schemes for including the startup beep into the stereo multimedia speakers, but nobody who designs motherboards uses that feature (too annoying). So just the piezo or case speaker beeps, and only if the twisted pair of wires with the 1x4 on the end, connects to a 1x4 group of pins (labeled SPKR). Asus had a scheme, where the Vocal Post chip was tied into the multimedia audio. The messages were low quality, and you'd hear "now booting operating system" come through your multimedia speakers. It would also tell you "RAM Error" and the like. As they tied common error conditions into a playback audio message from a pair of chips that cost a dollar or two. One chip was a Flash that contained recorded audio messages, and you could overwrite that with your own messages. It would take about 20 minutes to program the Flash, so I don't think many people bothered with that. Asus eventually stopped putting that on newer motherboards, but as these features go, it was certainly better than nothing. The hardest part was "translating" the messages. Paul |
#26
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No Video from PC
On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 9:25:37 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote:
wrote: On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul Because of what you said I'll have to find another site to host my pics.. Photobucket has always bogged down my pc like no other site. I can have a dozen tabs open with no problem, but a single Photobucket window would bring any computer to it's knees. And to make things worse: https://petapixel.com/2017/07/01/pho...-embedded-web/ They just went from free to $400 to host your photos for a year. Now since you can only download one of your own images at a time and there is a 20 image limit, it seems as though they are either shutting down or drastically changing the business model and this is a final shakedown. "...from hell's heart I stab at thee." Anyway, I picked up some Energizer CR2032 batteries only to find the computer has started powering on again. Nevertheless, I still get no beep/s whatsoever when I power on with the memory removed. Not from the motherboard and not from the headphones when plugged into the front or back of the case. I'm assuming the piezo transducer speakers I have will make no difference, correct? The last thing I can think of is re-seating the CPU. I can't re-seat all the cables until I figure out a way to get the case all the way open. But then I guess checking the main power connector with my Multimeter is all I can do. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. You connect the speaker to the 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. That's where the beeping is supposed to come out. The Line Out for the stereo speakers you use for multimedia, doesn't get that beep. There are actually schemes for including the startup beep into the stereo multimedia speakers, but nobody who designs motherboards uses that feature (too annoying). So just the piezo or case speaker beeps, and only if the twisted pair of wires with the 1x4 on the end, connects to a 1x4 group of pins (labeled SPKR). Asus had a scheme, where the Vocal Post chip was tied into the multimedia audio. The messages were low quality, and you'd hear "now booting operating system" come through your multimedia speakers. It would also tell you "RAM Error" and the like. As they tied common error conditions into a playback audio message from a pair of chips that cost a dollar or two. One chip was a Flash that contained recorded audio messages, and you could overwrite that with your own messages. It would take about 20 minutes to program the Flash, so I don't think many people bothered with that. Asus eventually stopped putting that on newer motherboards, but as these features go, it was certainly better than nothing. The hardest part was "translating" the messages. Paul Well the problem is that this motherboard does not have a 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. Just the orange 2 x 5 header, connected to the output jack, labled F.AUDIO: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...y54gOeakFklYh9 https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ugZCqiR4p5v63_ And a little black object with "WT-1205" stamped on it: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...O4RYOIqK8HuqOB The only 1 x 4 header is a small one in a little white housing. There is no where to connect the speakers I have: https://www.amazon.com/JAMECO-VALUEP.../dp/B00R5CFWFO Here is a simple board diagram: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...XfsvQPtBpgsvci Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#27
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 9:25:37 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul Because of what you said I'll have to find another site to host my pics. Photobucket has always bogged down my pc like no other site. I can have a dozen tabs open with no problem, but a single Photobucket window would bring any computer to it's knees. And to make things worse: https://petapixel.com/2017/07/01/pho...-embedded-web/ They just went from free to $400 to host your photos for a year. Now since you can only download one of your own images at a time and there is a 20 image limit, it seems as though they are either shutting down or drastically changing the business model and this is a final shakedown. "...from hell's heart I stab at thee." Anyway, I picked up some Energizer CR2032 batteries only to find the computer has started powering on again. Nevertheless, I still get no beep/s whatsoever when I power on with the memory removed. Not from the motherboard and not from the headphones when plugged into the front or back of the case. I'm assuming the piezo transducer speakers I have will make no difference, correct? The last thing I can think of is re-seating the CPU. I can't re-seat all the cables until I figure out a way to get the case all the way open. But then I guess checking the main power connector with my Multimeter is all I can do. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. You connect the speaker to the 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. That's where the beeping is supposed to come out. The Line Out for the stereo speakers you use for multimedia, doesn't get that beep. There are actually schemes for including the startup beep into the stereo multimedia speakers, but nobody who designs motherboards uses that feature (too annoying). So just the piezo or case speaker beeps, and only if the twisted pair of wires with the 1x4 on the end, connects to a 1x4 group of pins (labeled SPKR). Asus had a scheme, where the Vocal Post chip was tied into the multimedia audio. The messages were low quality, and you'd hear "now booting operating system" come through your multimedia speakers. It would also tell you "RAM Error" and the like. As they tied common error conditions into a playback audio message from a pair of chips that cost a dollar or two. One chip was a Flash that contained recorded audio messages, and you could overwrite that with your own messages. It would take about 20 minutes to program the Flash, so I don't think many people bothered with that. Asus eventually stopped putting that on newer motherboards, but as these features go, it was certainly better than nothing. The hardest part was "translating" the messages. Paul Well the problem is that this motherboard does not have a 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. Just the orange 2 x 5 header, connected to the output jack, labled F.AUDIO: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...y54gOeakFklYh9 https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ugZCqiR4p5v63_ And a little black object with "WT-1205" stamped on it: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...O4RYOIqK8HuqOB The only 1 x 4 header is a small one in a little white housing. There is no where to connect the speakers I have: https://www.amazon.com/JAMECO-VALUEP.../dp/B00R5CFWFO Here is a simple board diagram: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...XfsvQPtBpgsvci Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. Digikey has a listing for the WT-1205. It's a "2.4KHz tone" buzzer. Your error codes should beep out of there. This could be why you have no SPKR pins. They would normally be in the lower right corner of the motherboard, where the front panel RESET, POWER, and two LED outputs are located. OEM computers (HP, Dell, Acer) like to use a piezo, instead of a case speaker, because it's one less thing to wire up, and time is money in the assembly factory. https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...SAAEgKgcvD_BwE The F.Audio could be the output of the sound chip. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg There are five critical pins there, and they go to the front of the computer, to the two audio jacks. One audio jack is Headphones, one jack is Microphone. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg TRS Port1L Port1R GND (TRS = Tip Ring Sleeve of a 1/8" audio connector) TRS Port2L Port2R GND Modern F.audio headers don't need the two blue jumpers. Back in the AC'97 days, Lineout came from the sound chip, and would be "looped through" the headphone jack on the front of the computer. If you plugged in the headphones, it defeated the speaker LineOut (lime color) on the back of the computer. With the headphones unplugged, the rear speaker jack would work. If you didn't have front panel wiring connected to F.audio, you re-installed the two blue jumpers. The motherboard comes from the factory with the blue jumpers in place (so the Lineout works right away). In the HDAudio era, the sound chip has enough analog outputs, this kooky stuff is no longer required. The F.audio header has two jacks, sharing a common ground signal (my TRS diagram above). There are no longer blue jumpers, and you shouldn't even add blue jumpers to an HDAudio header. The HDaudio jacks are even re-taskable. When the sound control panel asks, you can tell it "this is my microphone" and the jack goes into microphone mode. That's what re-taskable means. (That's why my TRS diagram is not labeled with Headphones/Microphone.) So while a store-bought computer case might label one as Headphones and one jack as Microphone, they can be made to change roles. The HDAudio version doesn't need the jumpers, since no signals are looped through any more, and all the ports have their own private signal source. You can tell the various 2x5 headers on the motherboard, both by their descriptive label. But they're also labeled by "which pin is missing". You can see in the above Intel diagram, a certain pin is missing, and that marks it as an F.audio header. I have a header like that on my HDaudio PCI Express x1 slot module, and it has the same purpose, to provide signals to the front panel Headphone and Microphone jacks. I normally connect to the back of the machine, instead (as the computer is desk height, and the back is perfectly accessible). I can stand upright and change audio plugs and everything. ******* When I click your Google picture links above, I'm getting a "login box" instead of pictures. This is all part of the fun of "dialing in" new image servers :-) However, you've given plenty of text description to work with, so I hope the above gives some hints. The WT-1205 should have made a noise when the RAM sticks were removed. It should have beeped at 2.4KHz (which is kinda high for a beep). I like 440Hz for a beeper, if they made such a thing. For the F.audio, you would need to put the blue jumpers back if your rear audio LineOut wasn't working (i.e. an AC'97 era computer). If the computer is more modern, you don't need to do anything to that header, or ever worry about it, as your HDAudio Lineout *always* works. The documentation for your PC, might not be crystal clear as to what you've got. Only if you got the PC when it was brand new, it had the blue jumper plugs on it, might you get a hint it is AC'97 type. Some people in the past have remembered the blue jumpers, and so I had them put the jumpers back to make their rear audio work on Lineout. If you buy a separate PCI audio card, of course all the motherboard stuff no longer matters. Oh, and the white 1x4, that's probably the audio from the CD player goes to that header. Optical drives, some of the newer ones, have removed audio-out. So there's nothing to connect in that situation. Instead, there is digital audio extraction, to move digital samples from a music CD, into the computer, and that could be a higher quality path than the old audio cable anyway. You can see the idiots even had more than one standard for that connector (even if it was an accident of some sort). http://www.aesystems.com/cdrom_audio_connectors.html I don't have the 1x4 white CD audio hooked up on *any* computer here. Never used it. Nothing to worry about. Paul |
#28
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No Video from PC
On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 5:55:18 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote:
wrote: On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 9:25:37 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul Because of what you said I'll have to find another site to host my pics. Photobucket has always bogged down my pc like no other site. I can have a dozen tabs open with no problem, but a single Photobucket window would bring any computer to it's knees. And to make things worse: https://petapixel.com/2017/07/01/pho...-embedded-web/ They just went from free to $400 to host your photos for a year. Now since you can only download one of your own images at a time and there is a 20 image limit, it seems as though they are either shutting down or drastically changing the business model and this is a final shakedown. "...from hell's heart I stab at thee." Anyway, I picked up some Energizer CR2032 batteries only to find the computer has started powering on again. Nevertheless, I still get no beep/s whatsoever when I power on with the memory removed. Not from the motherboard and not from the headphones when plugged into the front or back of the case. I'm assuming the piezo transducer speakers I have will make no difference, correct? The last thing I can think of is re-seating the CPU. I can't re-seat all the cables until I figure out a way to get the case all the way open. But then I guess checking the main power connector with my Multimeter is all I can do. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. You connect the speaker to the 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. That's where the beeping is supposed to come out. The Line Out for the stereo speakers you use for multimedia, doesn't get that beep. There are actually schemes for including the startup beep into the stereo multimedia speakers, but nobody who designs motherboards uses that feature (too annoying). So just the piezo or case speaker beeps, and only if the twisted pair of wires with the 1x4 on the end, connects to a 1x4 group of pins (labeled SPKR). Asus had a scheme, where the Vocal Post chip was tied into the multimedia audio. The messages were low quality, and you'd hear "now booting operating system" come through your multimedia speakers. It would also tell you "RAM Error" and the like. As they tied common error conditions into a playback audio message from a pair of chips that cost a dollar or two. One chip was a Flash that contained recorded audio messages, and you could overwrite that with your own messages. It would take about 20 minutes to program the Flash, so I don't think many people bothered with that. Asus eventually stopped putting that on newer motherboards, but as these features go, it was certainly better than nothing. The hardest part was "translating" the messages. Paul Well the problem is that this motherboard does not have a 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. Just the orange 2 x 5 header, connected to the output jack, labled F.AUDIO: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...y54gOeakFklYh9 https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ugZCqiR4p5v63_ And a little black object with "WT-1205" stamped on it: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...O4RYOIqK8HuqOB The only 1 x 4 header is a small one in a little white housing. There is no where to connect the speakers I have: https://www.amazon.com/JAMECO-VALUEP.../dp/B00R5CFWFO Here is a simple board diagram: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...XfsvQPtBpgsvci Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. Digikey has a listing for the WT-1205. It's a "2.4KHz tone" buzzer. Your error codes should beep out of there. This could be why you have no SPKR pins. They would normally be in the lower right corner of the motherboard, where the front panel RESET, POWER, and two LED outputs are located. OEM computers (HP, Dell, Acer) like to use a piezo, instead of a case speaker, because it's one less thing to wire up, and time is money in the assembly factory. https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...SAAEgKgcvD_BwE The F.Audio could be the output of the sound chip. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg There are five critical pins there, and they go to the front of the computer, to the two audio jacks. One audio jack is Headphones, one jack is Microphone. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg TRS Port1L Port1R GND (TRS = Tip Ring Sleeve of a 1/8" audio connector) TRS Port2L Port2R GND Modern F.audio headers don't need the two blue jumpers. Back in the AC'97 days, Lineout came from the sound chip, and would be "looped through" the headphone jack on the front of the computer. If you plugged in the headphones, it defeated the speaker LineOut (lime color) on the back of the computer. With the headphones unplugged, the rear speaker jack would work. If you didn't have front panel wiring connected to F.audio, you re-installed the two blue jumpers. The motherboard comes from the factory with the blue jumpers in place (so the Lineout works right away). In the HDAudio era, the sound chip has enough analog outputs, this kooky stuff is no longer required. The F.audio header has two jacks, sharing a common ground signal (my TRS diagram above). There are no longer blue jumpers, and you shouldn't even add blue jumpers to an HDAudio header. The HDaudio jacks are even re-taskable. When the sound control panel asks, you can tell it "this is my microphone" and the jack goes into microphone mode. That's what re-taskable means. (That's why my TRS diagram is not labeled with Headphones/Microphone.) So while a store-bought computer case might label one as Headphones and one jack as Microphone, they can be made to change roles. The HDAudio version doesn't need the jumpers, since no signals are looped through any more, and all the ports have their own private signal source. You can tell the various 2x5 headers on the motherboard, both by their descriptive label. But they're also labeled by "which pin is missing". You can see in the above Intel diagram, a certain pin is missing, and that marks it as an F.audio header. I have a header like that on my HDaudio PCI Express x1 slot module, and it has the same purpose, to provide signals to the front panel Headphone and Microphone jacks. I normally connect to the back of the machine, instead (as the computer is desk height, and the back is perfectly accessible). I can stand upright and change audio plugs and everything. ******* When I click your Google picture links above, I'm getting a "login box" instead of pictures. This is all part of the fun of "dialing in" new image servers :-) However, you've given plenty of text description to work with, so I hope the above gives some hints. The WT-1205 should have made a noise when the RAM sticks were removed. It should have beeped at 2.4KHz (which is kinda high for a beep). I like 440Hz for a beeper, if they made such a thing. For the F.audio, you would need to put the blue jumpers back if your rear audio LineOut wasn't working (i.e. an AC'97 era computer). If the computer is more modern, you don't need to do anything to that header, or ever worry about it, as your HDAudio Lineout *always* works. The documentation for your PC, might not be crystal clear as to what you've got. Only if you got the PC when it was brand new, it had the blue jumper plugs on it, might you get a hint it is AC'97 type. Some people in the past have remembered the blue jumpers, and so I had them put the jumpers back to make their rear audio work on Lineout. If you buy a separate PCI audio card, of course all the motherboard stuff no longer matters. Oh, and the white 1x4, that's probably the audio from the CD player goes to that header. Optical drives, some of the newer ones, have removed audio-out. So there's nothing to connect in that situation. Instead, there is digital audio extraction, to move digital samples from a music CD, into the computer, and that could be a higher quality path than the old audio cable anyway. You can see the idiots even had more than one standard for that connector (even if it was an accident of some sort). http://www.aesystems.com/cdrom_audio_connectors.html I don't have the 1x4 white CD audio hooked up on *any* computer here. Never used it. Nothing to worry about. Paul I should have just put in an Ebay link to show the motherboard: https://www..ebay.com/itm/372052435442 So basically I'm back to where I was when I gave up on this computer the first time around. I get no beeps whatsoever, which means there is nothing else to do. So I guess it's back to my DELL 8300, which is another PC I had previously given up on. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#29
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No Video from PC
wrote:
On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 5:55:18 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 9:25:37 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Friday, December 15, 2017 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-5, Paul wrote: wrote: On Saturday, July 12, 2014 at 7:55:12 AM UTC-4, Flasherly wrote: On Fri, 11 Jul 2014 23:55:59 -0400, Michael Black wrote: Is that accurate anymore? I don't think my current computer has a speaker built into it. Get a little piezo transducer speaker with tiny leads for localized block mounted. Included on some MBs, hold onto to it when updating;- should be a purchasable item, couple bucks maybe shipped off Ebay from Singapore. Class D amps kits are another relatively cheap one. Wish they induded those already layered into a MB for the onboard sound chip. OK. Thanks to my severely limited Dell E310 losing it's audio capability after a bluescreen crash I believe was due to a flaky hard drive connection(thanks to the frequent failures to find the hard drive on previous boot attempts) I decided to dig out the Compact Presario(SR1920NX) that I gave up on almost 3-1/2 years ago after not getting any sound from the audio beep test. No sound from the motherboard F.Audio header connected to the case output jack, not via a sound card, and not from the little black barrel shaped object that says WT-1205(BUZZ1 in the manual diagram). http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psuddiaen5.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf9qwxsyu.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbamkrbgy.jpg http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pss1p6mrig.jpg So, two days ago I hooked this PC back up and turned on the power only to get nothing... Except the green light on the power supply that comes on when you plug in the AC cord. So that was short lived. Yesterday, before writing the PC off I tried again... And it came on three consecutive times. Both the power supply and the CPU fans spun up with no problem. So I'm thinking that the previous day's failure to power on was due a power supply issue. Perhaps the connection to the motherboard. Anyway, I hit another roadblock. I cannot move the drive cage out of the way to get to the main power connector so I can test it with my DMM. The reason is because even though the online instruction manual I found shows three tabs are to be pressed to swing open the front panel, on my PC there is only a single tab at the top. https://mans.io/files/viewer/500768/6#navigate_bar http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psjuhpaghq.jpg So I can loosen the top left corner of the front of the PC, but nothing else. Today I figured I'd turn on the PC only to find it is back to not working again. :-( Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. That Photobucket has turned into an advertising trash heap! I had to kill the browser from Task Manager, and the PC speaker was still beeping 30 seconds later. I cleaned out the browser, before using it again. ******* All I can suggest to you, for the PC that doesn't start, is to check the CR2032 CMOS battery and see if it's dropped to zero volts. This doesn't happen on all computers. Some seem to run a connection from the battery (as VBAT) to the SuperI/O. I've never been able to trace down why they might want to do that. It almost seems like the voltage is treated as a logic level, and when the voltage gets low enough, it disables the PS_ON signal or something. With a multimeter, you connect the black lead to chassis ground (a screw on an I/O connector will do). The red lead you touch to the top (+) of the battery. A good battery reads 3.0V or higher. The practical end of battery life, is around 2.3V. And it takes about three weeks to drop from 2.3V down to nothing. That gives some idea how short the "shoulder" of the battery discharge curve is. If you put a computer in storage, with the battery in place, the RTC draws 10uA from the battery, and it takes about three years to drain the battery. Then, you buy another battery. Always check the battery type before replacing it. CR2032 are not rechargeable. The LR2032 are a rechargeable type with a lower maH rating, and the motherboard recharges those, even from 0 volts. The LR2032 is more common in laptops. I'm constantly replacing them here. And so, when a computer is put back in the junk room, I pull the battery before storing it. On some PCs, it's a pain to remember all the correct CMOS settings the next time I use it. But if the CMOS CR2032 drains to zero anyway, the settings will still be lost. So one way or another, storage for longer than three years, means a little extra work getting the BIOS set up properly again. Paul Because of what you said I'll have to find another site to host my pics. Photobucket has always bogged down my pc like no other site. I can have a dozen tabs open with no problem, but a single Photobucket window would bring any computer to it's knees. And to make things worse: https://petapixel.com/2017/07/01/pho...-embedded-web/ They just went from free to $400 to host your photos for a year. Now since you can only download one of your own images at a time and there is a 20 image limit, it seems as though they are either shutting down or drastically changing the business model and this is a final shakedown. "...from hell's heart I stab at thee." Anyway, I picked up some Energizer CR2032 batteries only to find the computer has started powering on again. Nevertheless, I still get no beep/s whatsoever when I power on with the memory removed. Not from the motherboard and not from the headphones when plugged into the front or back of the case. I'm assuming the piezo transducer speakers I have will make no difference, correct? The last thing I can think of is re-seating the CPU. I can't re-seat all the cables until I figure out a way to get the case all the way open. But then I guess checking the main power connector with my Multimeter is all I can do. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. You connect the speaker to the 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. That's where the beeping is supposed to come out. The Line Out for the stereo speakers you use for multimedia, doesn't get that beep. There are actually schemes for including the startup beep into the stereo multimedia speakers, but nobody who designs motherboards uses that feature (too annoying). So just the piezo or case speaker beeps, and only if the twisted pair of wires with the 1x4 on the end, connects to a 1x4 group of pins (labeled SPKR). Asus had a scheme, where the Vocal Post chip was tied into the multimedia audio. The messages were low quality, and you'd hear "now booting operating system" come through your multimedia speakers. It would also tell you "RAM Error" and the like. As they tied common error conditions into a playback audio message from a pair of chips that cost a dollar or two. One chip was a Flash that contained recorded audio messages, and you could overwrite that with your own messages. It would take about 20 minutes to program the Flash, so I don't think many people bothered with that. Asus eventually stopped putting that on newer motherboards, but as these features go, it was certainly better than nothing. The hardest part was "translating" the messages. Paul Well the problem is that this motherboard does not have a 1x4 row of pins labeled SPKR. Just the orange 2 x 5 header, connected to the output jack, labled F.AUDIO: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...y54gOeakFklYh9 https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ugZCqiR4p5v63_ And a little black object with "WT-1205" stamped on it: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...O4RYOIqK8HuqOB The only 1 x 4 header is a small one in a little white housing. There is no where to connect the speakers I have: https://www.amazon.com/JAMECO-VALUEP.../dp/B00R5CFWFO Here is a simple board diagram: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...XfsvQPtBpgsvci Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. Digikey has a listing for the WT-1205. It's a "2.4KHz tone" buzzer. Your error codes should beep out of there. This could be why you have no SPKR pins. They would normally be in the lower right corner of the motherboard, where the front panel RESET, POWER, and two LED outputs are located. OEM computers (HP, Dell, Acer) like to use a piezo, instead of a case speaker, because it's one less thing to wire up, and time is money in the assembly factory. https://www.digikey.ca/product-detai...SAAEgKgcvD_BwE The F.Audio could be the output of the sound chip. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg There are five critical pins there, and they go to the front of the computer, to the two audio jacks. One audio jack is Headphones, one jack is Microphone. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/su...udioheader.jpg TRS Port1L Port1R GND (TRS = Tip Ring Sleeve of a 1/8" audio connector) TRS Port2L Port2R GND Modern F.audio headers don't need the two blue jumpers. Back in the AC'97 days, Lineout came from the sound chip, and would be "looped through" the headphone jack on the front of the computer. If you plugged in the headphones, it defeated the speaker LineOut (lime color) on the back of the computer. With the headphones unplugged, the rear speaker jack would work. If you didn't have front panel wiring connected to F.audio, you re-installed the two blue jumpers. The motherboard comes from the factory with the blue jumpers in place (so the Lineout works right away). In the HDAudio era, the sound chip has enough analog outputs, this kooky stuff is no longer required. The F.audio header has two jacks, sharing a common ground signal (my TRS diagram above). There are no longer blue jumpers, and you shouldn't even add blue jumpers to an HDAudio header. The HDaudio jacks are even re-taskable. When the sound control panel asks, you can tell it "this is my microphone" and the jack goes into microphone mode. That's what re-taskable means. (That's why my TRS diagram is not labeled with Headphones/Microphone.) So while a store-bought computer case might label one as Headphones and one jack as Microphone, they can be made to change roles. The HDAudio version doesn't need the jumpers, since no signals are looped through any more, and all the ports have their own private signal source. You can tell the various 2x5 headers on the motherboard, both by their descriptive label. But they're also labeled by "which pin is missing". You can see in the above Intel diagram, a certain pin is missing, and that marks it as an F.audio header. I have a header like that on my HDaudio PCI Express x1 slot module, and it has the same purpose, to provide signals to the front panel Headphone and Microphone jacks. I normally connect to the back of the machine, instead (as the computer is desk height, and the back is perfectly accessible). I can stand upright and change audio plugs and everything. ******* When I click your Google picture links above, I'm getting a "login box" instead of pictures. This is all part of the fun of "dialing in" new image servers :-) However, you've given plenty of text description to work with, so I hope the above gives some hints. The WT-1205 should have made a noise when the RAM sticks were removed. It should have beeped at 2.4KHz (which is kinda high for a beep). I like 440Hz for a beeper, if they made such a thing. For the F.audio, you would need to put the blue jumpers back if your rear audio LineOut wasn't working (i.e. an AC'97 era computer). If the computer is more modern, you don't need to do anything to that header, or ever worry about it, as your HDAudio Lineout *always* works. The documentation for your PC, might not be crystal clear as to what you've got. Only if you got the PC when it was brand new, it had the blue jumper plugs on it, might you get a hint it is AC'97 type. Some people in the past have remembered the blue jumpers, and so I had them put the jumpers back to make their rear audio work on Lineout. If you buy a separate PCI audio card, of course all the motherboard stuff no longer matters. Oh, and the white 1x4, that's probably the audio from the CD player goes to that header. Optical drives, some of the newer ones, have removed audio-out. So there's nothing to connect in that situation. Instead, there is digital audio extraction, to move digital samples from a music CD, into the computer, and that could be a higher quality path than the old audio cable anyway. You can see the idiots even had more than one standard for that connector (even if it was an accident of some sort). http://www.aesystems.com/cdrom_audio_connectors.html I don't have the 1x4 white CD audio hooked up on *any* computer here. Never used it. Nothing to worry about. Paul I should have just put in an Ebay link to show the motherboard: A8N-LA Rev2.0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/372052435442 So basically I'm back to where I was when I gave up on this computer the first time around. I get no beeps whatsoever, which means there is nothing else to do. So I guess it's back to my DELL 8300, which is another PC I had previously given up on. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. https://support.hp.com/doc-images/753/c00648511.jpg BUZZ1 is on the upper right, just below the rectangular SuperIO chip. Below that is a 34-pin floppy connector. And below that is a BIOS flash chip. The "triangle" on the socket, points to pin 1 on the chip. ******* To beep, the computer needs: 1) ATX power connected to 24 pin power. You can use a 20 pin ATX supply if you want, as long as pin 1 goes to pin 1, leaving four motherboard contacts unused. 2) The CPU needs power via the ATX 2x2 connector. That's on the upper left, inset a bit from the corner. Two pins are +12V and two pins are Ground. 3) CPU inserted in socket. Memory not necessary. HDD not necessary. Keyboard not necessary. Video card not necessary. 4) BIOS chip present and properly programmed. If the BIOS chip is rotated in the socket, two of the pins will glow red hot and it will be ruined. A couple of BIOS chips have been ruined by some sort of airport XRay machine (erased as near as I could determine). 5) You have BUZZ1, so no worries about having a speaker. Now, to get it to beep, the motherboard has some required operating conditions: 1) Push power button. Fans start to spin. If the fans don't spin, there is no +12V and no way the CPU can run. 2) Reset button. If you pound and smash the reset button, the contact stays jammed in the "ON" state. This prevents POST and no beeps are gonna come out. To stop this from happening, unplug the reset button twisted pair from the PANEL header. The same can happen to the power button, if it jams in the ON position, you might not get proper operation. You can unplug the Power twisted pair too, and use a screwdriver tip to "momentarily" close the two power contacts. 3) ATX supply must give Power_Good. When the fans start to spin, that is not the full story. The ATX supply sends a Power_Good signal over the main ATX cable, and that says all rails are at full voltage. If Power_Good is deasserted, the fans can run OK, but the CPU won't start. Power_Good, in effect, is a term in the RESET equation, and it has the same effect as a crushed Reset button in (2). 4) Once all the reset factors are accounted for, and the reset signal finally rises, the CPU starts reading flash data at a standard address, and it starts POST. If it finds no memory, the register-based code can still beep the speaker. The board uses a 6150LE with internal graphics available. It can still beep the "no video card" pattern, if attempts to run the Northbridge video don't work out. So that gives you a quick rundown of "why it don't beep" :-) There are some external factors that can play a part. It's not just a loss of power or something. The missing Power_Good doesn't happen all that often, but they continue to include that signal in the Reset tree of logic. HTH, Paul |
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