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Printing USB to Parallel



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 14th 16, 09:09 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware,alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Tony
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Posts: 175
Default Printing USB to Parallel

Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?

There are a couple of possible causes of light print but it depends on the
printer model.
Also depending on the manufacturer the manuals are not always entirely reliable.
What make and model do you have?
Tony

  #12  
Old January 15th 16, 04:33 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Gernot Hassenpflug[_4_]
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Posts: 44
Default Printing USB to Parallel

Roger Mills writes:

On 14/01/2016 10:30, Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black
ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a
parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the
manual says is a serious problem.)

I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.

Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?


I have a similar cable which enables a printer with a parallel
(Centronics) port to be connected to a computer's USB port. Mine works
perfectly well on Windows 7 with an old HP Deskjet printer.

The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you
have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do
with the cable.


Some printers, particularly complex ones like the ALPS range, require
bi-directional communication for monitoring and error handling.
Depending on the type of cable, bi-di might not work, and may well have
to be turned off in the BIOS.
Testing will tell.
--
NNTP on Emacs 24.3 from Windows 7
  #13  
Old January 15th 16, 08:58 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
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Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:27:25 -0500, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Paul wrote:

Micky wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.
Expired toner? Is that possible?


Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an
expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still
use it.


Back in the old days, the drum was made of glass,
and could cost $300 to replace. You should be
able to go through many toner cartridges, before
the page count gets you into "drum replacement territory".
My drum experiences come from a Canon laser with
liquid toner. The toner is flammable on those
(liquid material is petroleum based).

Later laser designs, used a plastic belt to hold the
static charge. On some, the belt was a separate item.
On others, the belt was a part of the toner cartridge.
The idea being, if you scratched that sucker, it meant
a much cheaper repair.

People sometimes scratch that stuff, while yanking
jammed sheets of paper from the printer. On some printers,
part of the print path has no release, so you have to yank.
You want the printer paper advancement wheels and stuff, to
be clean enough that you don't get frequent paper jams.
This is easier said than done. I've seen repair techs
waste hours cleaning our equipment at work. Even the
devices with "vacuum advance" paper handling, eventually
even they eventually succumbed to paper dust. No paper
handling technology is completely immune to "aging".
Good paper handling lasts for maybe two years, before
you're "always cleaning it and fiddling with it".

On a drum, you replace them when there is a "blemish"
in the same place on each print. It wouldn't necessarily
be a "black level" problem. It would be a "scratch"
in the print, perhaps.

The laser printer works by "drawing" a pattern on
a photosensitive drum or belt. The surface holds
a static charge, The static charge is removed in
places you don't want toner. The toner is "attracted"
to the drum or belt. As the sheet of paper makes
contact with the drum, the "fuser" melts the toner
particles so they adhere to the paper. If your fuser
isn't working, you will find the black toner on
the paper smudges and comes off on your fingers.

In isolation, a single toner particle behaves well
to a single charged spot on the drum or belt. When
you try to define an "all-black" area, now the
toner particles see the electrostatic behavior of
their neighbors. A non-uniform toner coating
can result. This causes "blotches" in the toner
transferred to the paper. You don't get a uniform
black. As a result, you should try to avoid creating
"all black images" for a B&W laser printout. Printing
text should work fine.


All very interesting.

Toner comes in various grades. There are regular
toners and "fine" toners. Perhaps if you're buying
"refills", they don't have the same consistency


Well, I got the printer free from a friend, who is a cheapskate, but
not when it comes to computers. He used to give me his old computer
stuff when he was, often, upgrading. He was probably on the original
cartridge. I could take it out and see if it's Samsung.

as a branded product. You would need a good microscope
to see the difference.

What you see in the print, "tells you a story".

Paul

  #14  
Old January 16th 16, 10:20 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
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Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:42:57 -0500, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Wolf K
wrote:

On 2016-01-14 08:40, Micky wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.

Expired toner? Is that possible?


Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an
expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still
use it.


It's the imaging drum (it's actually a cylinder). Laser printers create


I think that's what the manual said.

patterns of static charge on the drum. The toner sticks to the charged
areas, then is transferred to the paper and baked on. Eventually, the
drum can't hold the charge as well. I bought a new drum for my Brother
DCP-7040 recently. Cheaper than a new printer.


I thought a) it wasn't worth it and b) I woudln't be able to get it.

But it's 90 dollars, from Samsung itself, it says,
called a "Toner Cartridge/Drum"
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Cartri.../dp/B007CNR7VS
I don't get it. The toner alone is $65
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-ML-450.../dp/B00005N9CS

The picture shown looks the same as the Toner Cartridge/Drum.. but
it's not, right?

Then I found a "Genuine Samsung Toner Drum" for only $29. Despite the
word toner, in the name, but nowhere else, there's no toner, is there?
Or it's awfully cheap. Because it's ebay??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ML-4500D3-Ge...AOSwZjJVAEb g

And here for $40 including shipping, in a box that's been opened and
is a little beat up.
It says "The box is opened but the toner is sealed.
Yields 3,000 pages. All sales final."
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sams...AOSwT5tWLRg J

So can I really get toner and a drum for $40?? I'm so confused.


The printer is old but it's compact and simple.


Have a good day,

  #15  
Old January 17th 16, 12:15 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Ant
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 858
Default Printing USB to Parallel

....
I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2


I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.


Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?


Try it? Be sure it is returnable if it fails. My king ant did this
for his HP LaserJet 6P and MacBook Pros, with open source printer
drivers, it SORT OF works. Once in a while, it doesn't work but it's
easy to fix (disconnect and reconnect). I was more amazed that it even
worked! :O
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  #16  
Old January 17th 16, 12:16 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Ant
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Posts: 858
Default Printing USB to Parallel

....
The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you
have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.


Does this printer have a self test to print without needing a computer?
--
Quote of the Week: "... human societies send their young men to war, weaver-ant societies send their old ladies." --Wilson and Holldobler
Note: A fixed width font (Courier, Monospace, etc.) is required to see this signature correctly.
/\___/\ Ant(Dude) @ http://antfarm.home.dhs.org (Personal Web Site)
/ /\ /\ \ Ant's Quality Foraged Links: http://aqfl.net
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  #18  
Old January 17th 16, 01:31 AM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
Paul
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Posts: 13,364
Default Printing USB to Parallel

Micky wrote:
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:42:57 -0500, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Wolf K
wrote:

On 2016-01-14 08:40, Micky wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote:
Any lack of "blackness"
is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with
the cable.
Expired toner? Is that possible?
Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an
expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still
use it.

It's the imaging drum (it's actually a cylinder). Laser printers create


I think that's what the manual said.

patterns of static charge on the drum. The toner sticks to the charged
areas, then is transferred to the paper and baked on. Eventually, the
drum can't hold the charge as well. I bought a new drum for my Brother
DCP-7040 recently. Cheaper than a new printer.


I thought a) it wasn't worth it and b) I woudln't be able to get it.

But it's 90 dollars, from Samsung itself, it says,
called a "Toner Cartridge/Drum"
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Cartri.../dp/B007CNR7VS
I don't get it. The toner alone is $65
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-ML-450.../dp/B00005N9CS

The picture shown looks the same as the Toner Cartridge/Drum.. but
it's not, right?

Then I found a "Genuine Samsung Toner Drum" for only $29. Despite the
word toner, in the name, but nowhere else, there's no toner, is there?
Or it's awfully cheap. Because it's ebay??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ML-4500D3-Ge...AOSwZjJVAEb g

And here for $40 including shipping, in a box that's been opened and
is a little beat up.
It says "The box is opened but the toner is sealed.
Yields 3,000 pages. All sales final."
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sams...AOSwT5tWLRg J

So can I really get toner and a drum for $40?? I'm so confused.


The printer is old but it's compact and simple.


Have a good day,


I downloaded the ML-4600 manual, and it refers to a
photosensitive drum being inside the toner cartridge.
Similar to the photosensitive belt-in-toner cartridge
design. Normally, you would expect a "shutter" to cover
the drum, to protect it.

And notice the difference in appearance of these two boxes.
Now, which one is the fake ? Don't the three dice with
6-6-6 showing on the top face, look a little suspicious ?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/411MgTONa8L.jpg

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow.../ML-4500D3/SEE

And the thing actually looks like is has a drum in the middle.
Normally, you would not expect it to be exposed like this.

http://www.penguinink.com/images/Samsung%204500.jpg

That's an interesting design, in that the top of the unit
looks like it has a "paper path" in it, whereas the bottom
has the drum. All that's missing is the fuser unit (which
you would normally not be replacing).

With the "refilled" cartridges, the risk with those is that
the drum is not in good shape. I hope there is a good
"sealing tape" cover to protect the drum from damage
in shipping.

Paul
  #19  
Old January 19th 16, 09:58 PM posted to alt.windows7.general,comp.periphs.printers,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware
micky
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 439
Default Printing USB to Parallel

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 17:15:07 -0600, (Ant) wrote:

...
I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284)
Converter Cable - 6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work.
I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that
didn't work at all.


Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port
printer with this cable?


Try it? Be sure it is returnable if it fails. My king ant did this
for his HP LaserJet 6P and MacBook Pros, with open source printer
drivers, it SORT OF works. Once in a while, it doesn't work but it's
easy to fix (disconnect and reconnect). I was more amazed that it even
worked! :O


I'd already bought it, and as I point out in Travails for Another
Printer, the USB to parallel adapter worked, and worked well, once the
software was installed.
 




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