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#11
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Printing USB to Parallel
Micky wrote:
I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? There are a couple of possible causes of light print but it depends on the printer model. Also depending on the manufacturer the manuals are not always entirely reliable. What make and model do you have? Tony |
#12
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Printing USB to Parallel
Roger Mills writes:
On 14/01/2016 10:30, Micky wrote: I've been printing so many test sheets, I'm going to run out of black ink, but I have an old monocolor laser printer that only has a parallel port. (and it's not as black as it used to be which the manual says is a serious problem.) I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? I have a similar cable which enables a printer with a parallel (Centronics) port to be connected to a computer's USB port. Mine works perfectly well on Windows 7 with an old HP Deskjet printer. The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Some printers, particularly complex ones like the ALPS range, require bi-directional communication for monitoring and error handling. Depending on the type of cable, bi-di might not work, and may well have to be turned off in the BIOS. Testing will tell. -- NNTP on Emacs 24.3 from Windows 7 |
#13
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Printing USB to Parallel
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:27:25 -0500, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Paul wrote: Micky wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still use it. Back in the old days, the drum was made of glass, and could cost $300 to replace. You should be able to go through many toner cartridges, before the page count gets you into "drum replacement territory". My drum experiences come from a Canon laser with liquid toner. The toner is flammable on those (liquid material is petroleum based). Later laser designs, used a plastic belt to hold the static charge. On some, the belt was a separate item. On others, the belt was a part of the toner cartridge. The idea being, if you scratched that sucker, it meant a much cheaper repair. People sometimes scratch that stuff, while yanking jammed sheets of paper from the printer. On some printers, part of the print path has no release, so you have to yank. You want the printer paper advancement wheels and stuff, to be clean enough that you don't get frequent paper jams. This is easier said than done. I've seen repair techs waste hours cleaning our equipment at work. Even the devices with "vacuum advance" paper handling, eventually even they eventually succumbed to paper dust. No paper handling technology is completely immune to "aging". Good paper handling lasts for maybe two years, before you're "always cleaning it and fiddling with it". On a drum, you replace them when there is a "blemish" in the same place on each print. It wouldn't necessarily be a "black level" problem. It would be a "scratch" in the print, perhaps. The laser printer works by "drawing" a pattern on a photosensitive drum or belt. The surface holds a static charge, The static charge is removed in places you don't want toner. The toner is "attracted" to the drum or belt. As the sheet of paper makes contact with the drum, the "fuser" melts the toner particles so they adhere to the paper. If your fuser isn't working, you will find the black toner on the paper smudges and comes off on your fingers. In isolation, a single toner particle behaves well to a single charged spot on the drum or belt. When you try to define an "all-black" area, now the toner particles see the electrostatic behavior of their neighbors. A non-uniform toner coating can result. This causes "blotches" in the toner transferred to the paper. You don't get a uniform black. As a result, you should try to avoid creating "all black images" for a B&W laser printout. Printing text should work fine. All very interesting. Toner comes in various grades. There are regular toners and "fine" toners. Perhaps if you're buying "refills", they don't have the same consistency Well, I got the printer free from a friend, who is a cheapskate, but not when it comes to computers. He used to give me his old computer stuff when he was, often, upgrading. He was probably on the original cartridge. I could take it out and see if it's Samsung. as a branded product. You would need a good microscope to see the difference. What you see in the print, "tells you a story". Paul |
#14
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Printing USB to Parallel
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:42:57 -0500, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Wolf K wrote: On 2016-01-14 08:40, Micky wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still use it. It's the imaging drum (it's actually a cylinder). Laser printers create I think that's what the manual said. patterns of static charge on the drum. The toner sticks to the charged areas, then is transferred to the paper and baked on. Eventually, the drum can't hold the charge as well. I bought a new drum for my Brother DCP-7040 recently. Cheaper than a new printer. I thought a) it wasn't worth it and b) I woudln't be able to get it. But it's 90 dollars, from Samsung itself, it says, called a "Toner Cartridge/Drum" http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Cartri.../dp/B007CNR7VS I don't get it. The toner alone is $65 http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-ML-450.../dp/B00005N9CS The picture shown looks the same as the Toner Cartridge/Drum.. but it's not, right? Then I found a "Genuine Samsung Toner Drum" for only $29. Despite the word toner, in the name, but nowhere else, there's no toner, is there? Or it's awfully cheap. Because it's ebay?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ML-4500D3-Ge...AOSwZjJVAEb g And here for $40 including shipping, in a box that's been opened and is a little beat up. It says "The box is opened but the toner is sealed. Yields 3,000 pages. All sales final." http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sams...AOSwT5tWLRg J So can I really get toner and a drum for $40?? I'm so confused. The printer is old but it's compact and simple. Have a good day, |
#15
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Printing USB to Parallel
....
I also recently bought a USB to Parallel(CN36 Male / IEEE1284) Converter Cable - 6ft http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2 I know that having the right cable doesn't mean something will work. I once tried plugging the toaster into the kitchen faucet and that didn't work at all. Any chance I can under XP or Vista or 7 print to my parallel port printer with this cable? Try it? Be sure it is returnable if it fails. My king ant did this for his HP LaserJet 6P and MacBook Pros, with open source printer drivers, it SORT OF works. Once in a while, it doesn't work but it's easy to fix (disconnect and reconnect). I was more amazed that it even worked! :O -- Quote of the Week: "... human societies send their young men to war, weaver-ant societies send their old ladies." --Wilson and Holldobler Note: A fixed width font (Courier, Monospace, etc.) is required to see this signature correctly. /\___/\ Ant(Dude) @ http://antfarm.home.dhs.org (Personal Web Site) / /\ /\ \ Ant's Quality Foraged Links: http://aqfl.net | |o o| | \ _ / Please nuke ANT if replying by e-mail privately. If credit- ( ) ing, then please kindly use Ant nickname and AQFL URL/link. |
#16
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Printing USB to Parallel
....
The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Does this printer have a self test to print without needing a computer? -- Quote of the Week: "... human societies send their young men to war, weaver-ant societies send their old ladies." --Wilson and Holldobler Note: A fixed width font (Courier, Monospace, etc.) is required to see this signature correctly. /\___/\ Ant(Dude) @ http://antfarm.home.dhs.org (Personal Web Site) / /\ /\ \ Ant's Quality Foraged Links: http://aqfl.net | |o o| | \ _ / Please nuke ANT if replying by e-mail privately. If credit- ( ) ing, then please kindly use Ant nickname and AQFL URL/link. |
#17
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Printing USB to Parallel
[Default] On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 17:16:36 -0600, in
microsoft.public.windowsxp.general (Ant) wrote: ... The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Does this printer have a self test to print without needing a computer? Yeah, it does, btw. And I get your point. I have to read the manual again to see how, and I just brought the thing up from downstairs so I have to plug it in. Not so easy in this room. Tonight or tomorrow. |
#18
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Printing USB to Parallel
Micky wrote:
[Default] On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:42:57 -0500, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Wolf K wrote: On 2016-01-14 08:40, Micky wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 20:26:48 +0700, JJ wrote: On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 11:34:32 +0000, Roger Mills wrote: Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Expired toner? Is that possible? Not what the owners manual said. I forget what it said but it was an expensive fix. It's not that light, and it's even, so I can still use it. It's the imaging drum (it's actually a cylinder). Laser printers create I think that's what the manual said. patterns of static charge on the drum. The toner sticks to the charged areas, then is transferred to the paper and baked on. Eventually, the drum can't hold the charge as well. I bought a new drum for my Brother DCP-7040 recently. Cheaper than a new printer. I thought a) it wasn't worth it and b) I woudln't be able to get it. But it's 90 dollars, from Samsung itself, it says, called a "Toner Cartridge/Drum" http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Cartri.../dp/B007CNR7VS I don't get it. The toner alone is $65 http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-ML-450.../dp/B00005N9CS The picture shown looks the same as the Toner Cartridge/Drum.. but it's not, right? Then I found a "Genuine Samsung Toner Drum" for only $29. Despite the word toner, in the name, but nowhere else, there's no toner, is there? Or it's awfully cheap. Because it's ebay?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ML-4500D3-Ge...AOSwZjJVAEb g And here for $40 including shipping, in a box that's been opened and is a little beat up. It says "The box is opened but the toner is sealed. Yields 3,000 pages. All sales final." http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sams...AOSwT5tWLRg J So can I really get toner and a drum for $40?? I'm so confused. The printer is old but it's compact and simple. Have a good day, I downloaded the ML-4600 manual, and it refers to a photosensitive drum being inside the toner cartridge. Similar to the photosensitive belt-in-toner cartridge design. Normally, you would expect a "shutter" to cover the drum, to protect it. And notice the difference in appearance of these two boxes. Now, which one is the fake ? Don't the three dice with 6-6-6 showing on the top face, look a little suspicious ? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/411MgTONa8L.jpg http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow.../ML-4500D3/SEE And the thing actually looks like is has a drum in the middle. Normally, you would not expect it to be exposed like this. http://www.penguinink.com/images/Samsung%204500.jpg That's an interesting design, in that the top of the unit looks like it has a "paper path" in it, whereas the bottom has the drum. All that's missing is the fuser unit (which you would normally not be replacing). With the "refilled" cartridges, the risk with those is that the drum is not in good shape. I hope there is a good "sealing tape" cover to protect the drum from damage in shipping. Paul |
#20
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Printing USB to Parallel
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 19:27:30 -0500, Micky
wrote: [Default] On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 17:16:36 -0600, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general (Ant) wrote: ... The one you cite should work ok with your laser printer provided you have the appropriate printer driver installed. Any lack of "blackness" is likely to be an issue with the printer itself, and nothing to do with the cable. Does this printer have a self test to print without needing a computer? Yeah, it does, btw. And I get your point. I have to read the No darker in the selftest. I ordered a new drum. I'm hping it includes toner too. $29 on ebay. Cheap enough. manual again to see how, and I just brought the thing up from downstairs so I have to plug it in. Not so easy in this room. Tonight or tomorrow. |
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