Presario 2100 broken power connector

I got the case open and I can't get the old connector out
HELP!!!!!!!!!

I also can't get two of the three prongs out of the motherboard, so
that I can get the new one in. Is there any tricks to getting these
out???? Also, Do I have to solder it once I get it in ??

fetty0565wrote:
I also can't get two of the three prongs out of the motherboard, so
that I can get the new one in. Is there any tricks to getting these
out???? Also, Do I have to solder it once I get it in ??
Those broken prongs can be a real PITA, but they can come out.

Is there anything to grab onto with a pair of needle nose pliers
perhaps?

If you go back about a year in this thread, I discussed my problems
removing the prongs and my success. It took some extra hands to pull
gently/firmly while I heated the joint. I was suprised at how tough
it was. I thought I was going to break the MB.

And I am assuming that you were able to completely remove the
motherboard (MB) to do this. If it is not completely out, you can't
really get to everywhere you need to get.

Those are the only tricks I can offer, check the ENTIRE thread for
other advice as well.

And yes, you must solder the new jack in. If you don't know how to
solder, then you already have gone too far on your own. Not being
critical, just a realist.

Keep on letting us know your problems and successes. This has been a
LONG running thread and was helpful to me a year ago when working on
my sister's compaq. We've heard most of the problems before, so keep
giving us a try....

My port Replicator is sexy! W00t, no more ongoing issues w/ this crap
and it fits in my Laptop carrying case. I'm excited about it...
Anyways. I had a relatively large sottering gun compared to others
used in this thread, 30 volts I think. Heat up that pos prong thing
till it's blazing, and pullem out w/ needle nose pliers.

Solder wick and a 40W iron works well to clear the thru-holes also and
then you just put the new jack in and resolder.. Be sure on the Athlon
boards to solder the trace on the top side as this is where the
positive connects on this revision. Mouser.com or digi-key for the
2.5mm jacks.

ikenfixit wrote:
Solder wick and a 40W iron works well to clear the thru-holes also and
then you just put the new jack in and resolder.. Be sure on the Athlon
boards to solder the trace on the top side as this is where the
positive connects on this revision. Mouser.com or digi-key for the
2.5mm jacks.

Be extremely careful that you get the right jack.
I replaced one on a toshiba. Replacement jack plugged right into the
board. Only problem was that the connector pin order was reversed.
had to super glue it upside down and wire it in.

Be absotively posilutely certain that the power plug pins map to the
correct board traces. All sockets are not constructed the same.
mike

Well, thanks for the info in this thread. I've just found an issue with
a bad jack/plug that I compounded with a cheap knock off supply
replacement. With the info I've found here and on Compaq's site I'm
going to do the repair myself.

Just thought I'd throw a few things out for those attempting the
same...

_PART_INFO_
'Laptopjacks.com' (http://www.laptopjacks.com) has info for DC input
jacks for all kinds of machines. Am I the only one that finds a site
devoted to this issue amusing? Anyway, it gives you a part number to
go with even if you don't order from them (they're pricey @ $8ea and
$8S&H for a one-off item). For compaq presario 2100 series laptops,
the part appears to be 'CQ21325'
(http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part.php?id=CQ21325)

_SOLDERING_TIPS_
Generally speaking, you want high heat for short periods of time. The
solder should liquify almost instantly. Sustained heat on a PCB is not
a good thing and can damage pads/traces.

Use pure solder, not resin core stuff. It's bulky, it makes a mess and
isn't necessary on PCB soldering.

To remove solder, a de-soldering tool (like a mini turkey baster) can
suck up liquid (molten) solder or you can use solder-wick (copper mesh
that absorbes solder).

When removing defective components, I find it easier to snip them off
at the legs/pins and remove the individual legs one at a time instead
of trying to get the entire thing out together.

When soldering, I find it best to heat the pin/wire and apply solder to
the pin. This avoids heat transfer to the board as much as possible.

Solder joints should taper up like a hershey's kiss, not mound up like
a bubble. It should also be shiny. Dull/low-luster solder "balls" are
usually cold solder joints and are not dependable, particularly on
something that will see some abuse.


--
RobBob
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I almost forgot... Did anyone notice the discrepancy between the
computer's designated DC power requirements and the output power of the
AC adapter?

The guy at the service shop brought this up. The web site and adapter
itself indicate 90Watts ) required. The computer's DC
input sticker (on the bottom) indicates that it needs 75Watts
).

Should it make a difference, I'm using a 2175US model, product#DK576A.


--
RobBob
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what a great thread on this topic.

I'm having some problems, I recently got gifted a presario 2500 which
was very poorly repaired by some twit in thailand or somthing, they'd
ripped out the power jack and cut the wire on the charger so now it's
just two wires coming out the end of it.
The odd thing is, it actually worked. it booted up and asked me if i
wanted to start windows in safemode. it did it once, however, and now
wont boot at all. I had the feeling it was something to do with the
abs. rubbish wire stripping/soldering/hot glue job someone had done,
so i took it all apart.
I have a few pictures of the situation the motherboard is in. I've
looked into getting a new jack for the mobo, but re-considered it.

I'd like to know if anyone can help me to get this to work. I'm not
too concerned about using this as a portable computer, although it
would be nice, I don't want to have to spend too much... I have looked
for docking stations on ebay australia, couldnt find any. which model
of dock should i be looking for? If I wanted to, however, judging by
the photos, would i be able to de-solder the board and purchase a new
charger and get it to work? I'm also considering simply re-soldering
the cut power cable onto the board, is this a good or bad idea?


Thanks very much for any help.


PICS -
http://www.imagebeaver.com/view.php?...llery&g=222019

I can't help you with the docking station (but with that mess, it may
be your best option seeing as you don't want to go portable with it).

If you are handy with this type of repair, the cost of the replacement
jack shouldn't be too much and may make it worth a try. Have patience
however, whoever did the previous "fix" made your repair a
bit more challenging, and iffy. So no guarantee that it will actually
work, but at least you shouldn't be out too much $$ to try.

Best of luck to you mate.