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#21
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Help!
Hit a deadend with removing the motherboard. Guess I'll try and read the manual. I've removed all visible screws, including the six on the I/O ports. Most of the MB lifts up but there's resistence on the side with the PC card reader. Should I remove the PC card reader? Can't see how, even though I've removed all visible screws. |
#22
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pab1953wrote:
Help! Hit a deadend with removing the motherboard. Guess I'll try and read the manual. I've removed all visible screws, including the six on the I/O ports. Most of the MB lifts up but there's resistence on the side with the PC card reader. Should I remove the PC card reader? Can't see how, even though I've removed all visible screws.I did my 2100US board last weekend so here is what my memory serves...Remove: six "screws" for the I/O ports on the back of the laptop (you've got it already) two long screws from the PCMCIA card slots. two screws that hold the hard drive "cage" two (?) screws that hold a metal "shield," just left of the hard drive two (?) screws under the shield you just removed one (?) close to the power connector There were 1-3 others I believe, but they were obvious. One last one...there are three screws holding down the heatsink/heatblock on the cpu, you need to loosen (not remove) the ONE towards the back of the laptop. Loosening this screw removes pressure on the metal frame at the back of the laptop. JUST DON'T Forget to retighten it when reassembling the unit! The only other "hang-up" I had was the audio jacks where they penetrate through the case. GENTLE prying or jiggling the MB shoud allow these to clear. Otherwise the MB should just lift out without any effort. So if it is still stuck, there is still a screw to go... ==== SG257 |
#23
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Markwrote:
pab1953 wrote: ... you absolutely should replace it. It makes no sense to go through this much grief and not make the very best repair possible. ... ...It CAN be done; good luck!I wholeheartedly agree! |
#24
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Confounded.
I've read the manual. I've read the posts. I've removed what I'm supposed to remove (I'm pretty sure). And still the MB won't "just lift out." The biggest resistence is up near the heatsink and the two adjacement I/O. Seems firmly wedged there. |
#25
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![]() "pab1953" wrote in message ... Confounded. I've read the manual. I've read the posts. I've removed what I'm supposed to remove (I'm pretty sure). And still the MB won't "just lift out." The biggest resistence is up near the heatsink and the two adjacement I/O. Seems firmly wedged there. Get it done by a computer tech then you have a warranty if it is stuffed. |
#26
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pab1953wrote:
Confounded. I've read the manual. I've read the posts. I've removed what I'm supposed to remove (I'm pretty sure). And still the MB won't "just lift out." The biggest resistence is up near the heatsink and the two adjacement I/O. Seems firmly wedged there.Take a pic and post/link it. Then maybe one of us can pinpoint it for you. It should just tilt out, pivoting along the back edge a bit, then lift out completely. Until it does this easily, something is still remaining that must be removed. SG257 |
#27
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Got the board out -- with the help of a computer repair guy (I'd
removed everything correctly, I just didn't know how to tug the board loose). A small piece of plastic came off the power connector, so I guess I need a new one. Is eBay the best source? |
#28
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pab1953wrote:
Is eBay the best source?It was for me. Less than $6 shipped to my door in two-three days. Search eBay for compaq presario 2100 jack should get it. The vendor I used is also selling lots of 10 jacks for 22.99 buy-it-now instead of 2.99 (so obviously don't choose that one unless you have 9 more laptops to fix...). You may find one for less, and if you can [b:9fcf29d244]and [/b:9fcf29d244]they can get it to you within two days go for it. Otherwise, I'd go eBay. ps, match the picture on eBay with the jack on your board.[/i] |
#29
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W00t! Thanks for the luck, as I got mine working too, I had a 2500
though. So here's a note to all other people w/ this problem: Your laptop will be 100% dismantled for this repair. As long as you're a confident person, all you'll need to fix is the $5 part from EBAY, a soldering iron and solder from Radio Shack for $8, a small phillips screwdriver and some needle nose pliers. Take it all apart, you'll have the motherboard in your hand as you'll need to un-solder the from the bottom of it. Heat up the 3 pieces and pry that pos off. Place new one on, apply a 3 beads of solder in the correct places. Put it back together and turn it on... took me 90 mins and I have no soldering experience whatsoever and had to solder the fan jack on my mobo that I snapped off by accident too. One more thing is I re-greased my processor w/ Artic Silver while it was apart and it runs about 5 degrees cooler now ![]() Disclaimer: This website nor Wanzi are responsible for you're n00bish efforts at fixing bad powerjacks on your laptop. If things go wrong, let it be known that these are words of advise and should be addressed w/ caution and at your own risk. |
#30
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Thanks for the manual - the R3000 instruciton worked for me!
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