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#11
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Hi
I have the same problem but with an Presario R3240US. The problem is that i can't take it appart - I got to the step where i remove the fans and on the back side, but i can't figure out how to remove the mainboard - its not ****ible to remove the keyboard... Thanks |
#12
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Man you people need to look harder.. These are all different and I'll
spend 6 days explaining how to's on disassembly and the reverse process especially if something goes awry in the process. Just call if you want to try it yourself and it will be easier to explain this way. Not to be A stickler but the R-3k series is a bear to do, The 2100? get the rear panel of behind the keyboard off first and the rest is self explanitory.. Good luck all.. |
#13
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gork wrote:
Hi I have the same problem but with an Presario R3240US. The problem is that i can't take it appart - I got to the step where i remove the fans and on the back side, but i can't figure out how to remove the mainboard - its not ****ible to remove the keyboard... Thanks Typically, one would remove the keyboard earlier in the process. Is the step you are referring to from the Compaq service literature? If not, take a look at- http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00212209.pdf It's tough to find (or remember!) all of the screws here and there without a map of some kind. (Thus, the apparent typo in you messge on what's "possible" is more likely a Freudean slip... but I agree with you!) I'm not familiar with your model so I can't offer any hot "tips" other that to look at section 5.10 of the manual for some insight. It says it's for the "R3000 Notebook PC Series", so that's what I'd look at myself. Good luck! |
#14
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I have a Presario 2500 w/ this exact problem... It's totally apart on
my Pool Table and waiting for the $3 part off of ebay to come in the mail now. I used a Radio Shack solder gun @ 30 amps to remove the old power jack which was pretty easy... now if I can just remember how to put the thing back together after I get the part. |
#15
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Wanziwrote:
I have a Presario 2500 w/ this exact problem... It's totally apart on my Pool Table and waiting for the $3 part off of ebay to come in the mail now. I used a Radio Shack solder gun @ 30 amps to remove the old power jack which was pretty easy... now if I can just remember how to put the thing back together after I get the part.30 amps! It sure sounds like a lot, but I can understand it. When I removed my connector (from a 2100) in order to replace it it was a real pain to remove. It almost seemed to not want to draw in any heat into the solder lug, as if I blew a breaker on the soldering iron. I was getting a bit worried about damaging some of the small components near the power connector due to overheating, but I finally got the old connector off, the holes in the MB cleared and the new connector on. Works like a champ now... Good luck with yours... SG257 |
#16
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FWIW I'm working on the same problem with a 2100 ... still trying to
find the non-obvious screws on the case, so this thread has been very helpful. I'm guessing this would be a $200US-ish job at a local computer shop, so the effort is worth the money ... assuming I don't eff the job up and kill the notebook, which is very easy to imagine doing. Talking of murder, who the hell's responsible for this delightful piece of hardware design that has so many of us tearing our hair out and wasting time and money? As far as I'm concerned, it has seriously interrupted my work. With so many people experiencing the same problem, is there grounds for a class action lawsuit against HP? Meanwhile, back at the disemboweling, where did I put all those screws ... |
#17
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On a practical note, will it be possible to re-solder the existing
power pin, which is wobbly but not broken off, once I get the box open? Or will I almost certainly need to use a new one? Thank you. |
#18
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Obviously, YMMV, but in my 2100 one of the three solder lugs had
actually broke. The price for the part on eBay was dirt cheap, quick to arrive, and worth the comfort of a solid repair. In my case the laptop wouldn't even run, and once the repair was effected, the unit booted up under battery power (must have been a short?). Whew! Good luck with those screws...let us know if you still need help finding them...I needed it. |
#19
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So I have the laptop open. The only piece I'm not sure about in the
disassembly is a small black lead going from the motherboard to display or somewhere. Should this be disconnected? I can't see how. As regards the power connector, there it sits black and wobbly -- and very small and cramped. What do I do now? Can I solder it so it doesn't wobble? Do I remove it (how?) and replace it? Help ![]() Thanks. ![]() |
#20
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![]() pab1953 wrote: So I have the laptop open. The only piece I'm not sure about in the disassembly is a small black lead going from the motherboard to display or somewhere. Should this be disconnected? I can't see how. As regards the power connector, there it sits black and wobbly -- and very small and cramped. What do I do now? Can I solder it so it doesn't wobble? Do I remove it (how?) and replace it? If the connector itself is intact, it might just need to be resoldered to the circuit board. However, if there is ANY damage or shortfall whatsoever (loose center contact pin, cracked connector body, etc.) you absolutely should replace it. It makes no sense to go through this much grief and not make the very best repair possible. Soldering the connector in place will require access to the underside of the board, which generally means having to remove everything from the case in order to extract the motherboard. The appropriate service literature for your model should be downloaded and examined if at all available. While not always perfect, it's a really big help. There appears to be one for the 2100, depending on the specific model. See the "Support" section for your model, select "Manuals" and look for the Compaq "Maintenance and Service Guide". If I'm right, you can just download-- http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00246219.pdf It CAN be done; good luck! |
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