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Router sulks, then works.



 
 
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  #11  
Old June 9th 16, 05:16 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware,alt.windows7.general
Micky[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 35
Default Router sulks, then works.

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:32:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:05:53 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember
where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524


Garbage. I had nothing but problems with that vintage D-Link hardware
due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a
known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the
capacitors bulge.


Yeah, now I r emember that we talked about capacitors (on electonics
repair) the last time, and I cracked it open and looked, but I didnt'
seen any that looked swollen. Maybe I just don't know how to look.

And my experience is consistent with yours, 2 bad ones in 8 years.
Last time, after the new power supply came via Ebay, it dawned on me
that I'd bought a spare at a hamfest, but I went to look at it, and it
had no wifi, only routing, and the power supply wasn't with it. But
then a few months later, I found a brand new, still wrapped in
cellophane, same thing as I'm using. I'd forgotten I had both. So I
know where to get a 3rd powersupply and if it blows, I'll go back to
the Ambico Universal Digital Camera AC Adaptor, 2100mA, with 4
different tips** and voltages from 3 to 7 volts. I paid $9 for it
20 years ago for just this sort of situation.

**tubular tips, none of which would fit any digital camera made these
days, because they are all USB, aren't they? Even many of the brands
of camera they list don't make cameras anymore, afaik: Hewlitt
Packard, Vivitar, Kodak, Minolta, Epson. Epson?

If you put a scope on the PS line, you'll find it
full of switching trash. If you're good at brain surgery and working
in tight spaces, you can possibly fix it.


I'm working on it, but when I get good at brain surgery, I plan to be
a brain surgeon.

This is unusual, but cute:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMVyFy_pb7E (1:41)

Look through the Linksys refurbished collection for a cheap
replacement:
http://stores.ebay.com/Linksys-Official-Store?_dmd=2&_nkw=refurbished

  #12  
Old June 9th 16, 07:35 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware,alt.windows7.general
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Router sulks, then works.



"Micky" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:32:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:05:53 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember
where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524


Garbage. I had nothing but problems with that vintage D-Link hardware
due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a
known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the
capacitors bulge.


Yeah, now I r emember that we talked about capacitors (on electonics
repair) the last time, and I cracked it open and looked, but I didnt'
seen any that looked swollen. Maybe I just don't know how to look.


Electrolytics don't always bulge - sometimes they get hot and expel
electrolyte past the rubber bung, when they cool, a vacuum forms and
sometimes makes the top slightly concave.

If you remove them - the dead ones usually feel lighter than they should.

The usual problem is ESR - high internal resistance, this causes losses when
filtering the output from an SMPSU. Those losses translate into heat that
you can feel - but watch out; electrolytics on the primary side of an SMPSU
can have live cans!

You could always buy an ESR meter - but the good ones aren't cheap.

Some types of combined continuity/voltage testers with 2 LED indication can
give a near enough test - one LED "kicks" as the capacitor charges when you
press the button, the other LED "kicks" on discharge as you release the
button. It takes experience to read how fast or slow the LEDs fade, but I
got away with such a tester for years.

  #13  
Old June 9th 16, 09:04 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware,alt.windows7.general
Michael Black[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 164
Default Router sulks, then works.

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016, Ian Field wrote:



"Micky" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:32:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:05:53 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember
where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524

Garbage. I had nothing but problems with that vintage D-Link hardware
due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a
known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the
capacitors bulge.


Yeah, now I r emember that we talked about capacitors (on electonics
repair) the last time, and I cracked it open and looked, but I didnt'
seen any that looked swollen. Maybe I just don't know how to look.


Electrolytics don't always bulge - sometimes they get hot and expel
electrolyte past the rubber bung, when they cool, a vacuum forms and
sometimes makes the top slightly concave.

If you remove them - the dead ones usually feel lighter than they should.

The usual problem is ESR - high internal resistance, this causes losses when
filtering the output from an SMPSU. Those losses translate into heat that you
can feel - but watch out; electrolytics on the primary side of an SMPSU can
have live cans!

But it's more likely that the electrolytics on the secondary are the
problem. Those run at much higher frequencies than 60 or 50Hz from the
line, which makes them more vulnerable.

Michael


You could always buy an ESR meter - but the good ones aren't cheap.

Some types of combined continuity/voltage testers with 2 LED indication can
give a near enough test - one LED "kicks" as the capacitor charges when you
press the button, the other LED "kicks" on discharge as you release the
button. It takes experience to read how fast or slow the LEDs fade, but I got
away with such a tester for years.

  #14  
Old June 9th 16, 10:32 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair,microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.comp.hardware,alt.windows7.general
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Router sulks, then works.



"Michael Black" wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1606091603410.17608@darkstar. example.org...
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016, Ian Field wrote:



"Micky" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:32:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:05:53 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember
where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524

Garbage. I had nothing but problems with that vintage D-Link hardware
due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a
known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the
capacitors bulge.

Yeah, now I r emember that we talked about capacitors (on electonics
repair) the last time, and I cracked it open and looked, but I didnt'
seen any that looked swollen. Maybe I just don't know how to look.


Electrolytics don't always bulge - sometimes they get hot and expel
electrolyte past the rubber bung, when they cool, a vacuum forms and
sometimes makes the top slightly concave.

If you remove them - the dead ones usually feel lighter than they should.

The usual problem is ESR - high internal resistance, this causes losses
when filtering the output from an SMPSU. Those losses translate into heat
that you can feel - but watch out; electrolytics on the primary side of
an SMPSU can have live cans!

But it's more likely that the electrolytics on the secondary are the
problem. Those run at much higher frequencies than 60 or 50Hz from the
line, which makes them more vulnerable.


Not so with the electronic PFC front end.

The rectifier output only has a low capacitor film type - the rough DC goes
straight to the PFC circuit, that is basically a flyback boost converter,
and that's what charges the reservoir electrolytic.

Before the proliferation of PFC, I was in mainstream servicing - I had to
replace enough rectifier/reservoir electrolytics to complain about how much
they cost!

For UK mains; the PFC reservoir has to be rated 450V instead of 385V - and
handle SMPSU type ripple. So I expect they're a bit more expensive and
probably fail more often.

 




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