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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic,
spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) |
#2
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
SC Tom wrote:
Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) A Google search suggests you should swap out the CX 600 and test with a different PSU. Paul |
#3
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
"Paul" wrote in message news SC Tom wrote: Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) A Google search suggests you should swap out the CX 600 and test with a different PSU. Paul I hadn't seen that. It had good reviews when I bought it :-( I might have another PSU I could hook up externally; there's not much room for a full-size in this case. Thanks! -- SC Tom |
#4
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
Paul wrote:
SC Tom wrote: Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) A Google search suggests you should swap out the CX 600 and test with a different PSU. I've had a Corsair CX 600W in my salvaged PC for just over 4 years. No one has absolutely no failures on their products, though. Corsair doesn't build anything. They spec to the manufacture (Channel Well Technologies aka CWT whose is the world's largest PSU maker and contracts with numerous brands to build their PSUs). Corsair then slaps on their "Corsair" sticker. Even FSP (aka Sparkle/Fortron) who builds their own PSUs and also sells under the EVGA, Antec, OCZ, Silverstone, Thermaltake, Nexus, and Zalman (maybe more) brands has had some blooper models. What I've seen of users of the Corsair CX600 where they complained one unit failed, they replaced it with the same model, and that eventually failed hints the problem was never with the PSU. "I used a spring- loaded punch on a car's side window and it shattered. Replaced the glass but the spring-loaded punch still breaks the window." The problem wasn't with the window. Some users will report they see the fans jiggle, the PSU comes up for a second or two, but then shuts off. That could be a fan isn't spinning or the wrong type got used, like 3-pin on a 4-pin mobo header, so the BIOS immediately shutdown the PSU because it's prevent what it sees as a non-spinning CPU fan from causing the CPU to burn up. I've seen fans that cease to send their RPM data so the BIOS sees them as non-spinning. One wouldn't send RPM data except at full RPM. On startup, the fans spin at max RPM and then get slowed to reduce noise. Some users didn't connect the 8-pin cable to their video card (because the foils in the mobo cannot handle the amperage). Some mobos won't power up (shutdown the PSU) if there isn't a load beyond some threshold, like 1 HDD + 2 fans or 2 HDDs or 1 HDD + 1 video card. The load on the PSU is too light so the mobo (or is it the PSU?) thinks there is a some problem and shuts down the PSU. Stable operation means the PSU must experience a minimum load threshold. I've seen this min threshold problem reported for Corsair PSUs; however, since I always have 2, or more, HDDs (even when I added the SSD) along with using a daughtercard video card instead of the dismal onboard graphics, I've not encountered light-load shutdown problems with the Corsair PSU. Can't really tell from the OP's specs if a 600W, any brand, would be sufficient for the PC under full load of all components. While there's the surge current on cold startup, the OP says his PC starts up okay. Who knows what all he is running at the time of the shutdown. While probably a bit overly safe, I get a PSU that handles twice the load with the mobo fully populated (all connectors used to attach as many hard drives, memory modules, dual video cards in SLI config, all daughtercard slots filled, etc). PSUs wan in capacity over time so I want to start big to make sure there is still plenty of over capacity 6-9 years later. Maybe 600W really isn't big enough for his setup. A wattmeter (e.g., Killa-Watt) would show how much is going through the power cord, divide by the PSU's efficiency rating (which is really on a benchmark spec on the design and somewhat applicable to a new unit) to see how much power his setup is consuming, then make sure there is plenty of reserve capacity. Has he added any internally-powered components since acquiring that pre-built? I don't remember what Core Temp shows. The OP only mentions one temperature which might be the overall or case temperature. Maybe he needs to look at the individual core temps (there are 4 cores, not the 12 "compute cores" he mentions that AMDs spews because the other 8 come from the GPU). I've found that my core temps for my Intel quad core are not equal plus only 1 or 2 are actually inuse most of the time with only short spikes in the other 2 cores. One core always ran hotter, concerned me for awhile, but it's well within spec and seems to be its natural behavior (that non-overclocked CPU is over 4 years old now). TjMax means Tjunction temperature which is core temperature but the OP lists only one. Maybe that's the max of all core temperatures. Looks like his AMD CPU is rated for a TjMax of 71 C but he's only at 35 C (which seems the unloaded running temperature so he doesn't use his computer for anything but just leaves it powered on with only the OS using the CPU?). Does Core Temp provide a chart showing history of temperatures for all cores? If so, I'd watch that to see if there was a spike in one, or more, core's temperature(s). I've never used the log function in Speedfan to know it will save a history of readings into a log file. Maybe Core Temp has a logging function. Once TjMax is hit, the processor's THERMTRIP# signal will activate a shutdown. I don't use AMD CPUs to know how accurate is their junction temperature sensors. I don't trust any of them to be more accurate than ±5 C of the real temperature. |
#5
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
SC Tom wrote:
Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) How often a month do the unplanned shutdowns occur (which presumably means the computer hardware powers off and not that the OS merely shutdown but the hardware is fine)? If, say, 10 times a month, you could try booting into safe mode to see if any hardware shutdowns happen within a week. Got a multimeter? If so, monitor the PSU's output voltages. Alas, that won't show you the ripple in the voltage which an oscilloscope would show but average DC voltage is a good check. When was the last time you use compressed air to dust out the inside? Did you use ear swabs on the fan blades to eliminate that source of inbalance and turbulence? Did you also blow out the PSU (both directions)? If there are any flat ribbon cables inside, are they oriented to permit air flow past them or do they block air flow? A looksie inside may show no accumulated dust on the mobo but how are you going to see into the fins of the CPU heatsink, the fins of the video card's heatsink (which could be underneath a pretty plastic shell), or inside the PSU? Can't tell if you have 2 drives (with C: and D: partitions that span the each entire drive) or one drive with 2 partitions (for C: and D. Did you monitor the temperature(s) of the drive(s)? You might want to leave a drive bay empty between to let them cool better, or leave one in the 3.5" drive cage and move the other up into a 5.25" bay using an adapter. Memtest won't much stress the components on the mobo. Prime95 does a better job of burn-in testing. Did you remove all memory modules except one and use that for awhile, and then proceed to use each module by itself for awhile, to make sure each works under whatever stress you place on memory? I've seen where memtest returns zero errors after many runs over several days but memory failures appear the moment I load Windows and use some apps. Go into the BIOS and check what is it its threshold for max CPU. Could be the CPU looks fine to Core Temp but is beyond the threshold configured in the BIOS. Also spin the fans to see if they spin freely or if you can feel resistance or bumpiness in rotation. If they stick then maybe they stopped spinning when they are silenced by slowing their RPM, and a stop CPU fan will have the BIOS shutdown the PSU to protect the CPU. Also check you don't have 2 fans blowing against each other. For example, the interior or underside of the PSU's fan suck air in. If the CPU's fan is blowing across the heatsink but opposite to the PSU's airflow then they work against each other and air flow is reduced. A couple of nearby fans sucking or blowing against each other will reduce airflow. If there's dust inside the PSU, its airflow is reduced. Don't rely on what you see. Get some duster cans and blow it all out. |
#6
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
***Replies in line
"VanguardLH" wrote in message ... SC Tom wrote: Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) How often a month do the unplanned shutdowns occur (which presumably means the computer hardware powers off and not that the OS merely shutdown but the hardware is fine)? *** Twice in December, once each on the 2nd and the 29th, and once this morning. If, say, 10 times a month, you could try booting into safe mode to see if any hardware shutdowns happen within a week. Got a multimeter? If so, monitor the PSU's output voltages. Alas, that won't show you the ripple in the voltage which an oscilloscope would show but average DC voltage is a good check. *** Voltages read fine. When was the last time you use compressed air to dust out the inside? *** Two weeks ago. I do that every 3-4 weeks. Dust around here is terrible, plus I own a long-hair cat. Did you use ear swabs on the fan blades to eliminate that source of inbalance and turbulence? Did you also blow out the PSU (both directions)? *** Yep If there are any flat ribbon cables inside, are they oriented to permit air flow past them or do they block air flow? A looksie inside may show no accumulated dust on the mobo but how are you going to see into the fins of the CPU heatsink, the fins of the video card's heatsink (which could be underneath a pretty plastic shell), or inside the PSU? *** No flat cable (all SATA, and my PSU cables are wrapped round). The area around the CPU heatsink is open enough to see through it with my flashlight and inspection mirror. The video card does have a shell, but I remove it to clean its heatsink and fan. The PSU gets blown out well from both ends. Using a flashlight, I can see through it pretty well, at least well enough to see there is no large build-up of anything. Can't tell if you have 2 drives (with C: and D: partitions that span the each entire drive) or one drive with 2 partitions (for C: and D. Did you monitor the temperature(s) of the drive(s)? You might want to leave a drive bay empty between to let them cool better, or leave one in the 3.5" drive cage and move the other up into a 5.25" bay using an adapter. *** Two separate drives. They are mounted vertically, on above the other, long side parallel to the ground. I have not monitored their temps, but they are in the intake air stream. Memtest won't much stress the components on the mobo. Prime95 does a better job of burn-in testing. *** For grins and giggles, I downloaded and ran Memtest86+ v5.10 (I had v4.20). It ran for a while with no errors, then locked up. Booted the disk, ran it again, and same thing. I replace the RAM with some known good RAM out of an old PC (same speed RAM, but only have 8GB now instead of 12). The PC seems to be running well so far as I type this :-) Did you remove all memory modules except one and use that for awhile, and then proceed to use each module by itself for awhile, to make sure each works under whatever stress you place on memory? I've seen where memtest returns zero errors after many runs over several days but memory failures appear the moment I load Windows and use some apps. Go into the BIOS and check what is it its threshold for max CPU. Could be the CPU looks fine to Core Temp but is beyond the threshold configured in the BIOS. Also spin the fans to see if they spin freely or if you can feel resistance or bumpiness in rotation. If they stick then maybe they stopped spinning when they are silenced by slowing their RPM, and a stop CPU fan will have the BIOS shutdown the PSU to protect the CPU. Also check you don't have 2 fans blowing against each other. For example, the interior or underside of the PSU's fan suck air in. If the CPU's fan is blowing across the heatsink but opposite to the PSU's airflow then they work against each other and air flow is reduced. A couple of nearby fans sucking or blowing against each other will reduce airflow. If there's dust inside the PSU, its airflow is reduced. Don't rely on what you see. Get some duster cans and blow it all out. *** BIOS on this PC has no temp readings or settings :-( The fans are pulling from front to rear. The fins on the CPU heatsink are in-line with that airflow, so the CPU fan blows down through the fins and the warm air is pulled out. Some may be pulled through the PSU, but it's an inch and a half or so above the closed sides of the heatsink (it's a CoolerMaster Vortex Plus). I have an attachment for my office vac that blows a nice stream of air. As often as I clean my PC's (and the wife's), I'd use all my SSI for compressed air cans :-) Thanks for your in-depth replies. To answer part of your other reply to Paul, Coretemp measures the core tempertures, not the ambient air. The temp I listed IS an average- my first two cores generally run 2-4° warmer than the other two (and yes, I know the other 8 cores are the GPU, which I don't have enabled). I had another Corsair PSU, a TX650 v2, that is only 6-8 months old. I went ahead and put it in since I had everything apart anyhow. Tight fit, but it DID go in without customizing the case. Airflow around the vents is still good. According to Cooler Master's PSU calculator, my load wattage is approximately 241W, so a 600W or 650W PSU should be plenty. I'll post back here if it was all for naught. I'm keeping my fingers crossed ;-) Thanks again to both of you for replying :-) -- SC Tom |
#7
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
SC Tom wrote:
Recently (within the last couple of months), I have been having sporadic, spontaneous shutdowns or reboots. The PC is only about 18 months old, and I have made no changes to it in the last year or so. When it shuts down, I can restart it without waiting; it starts up fine and immediately. I had a problem like that once and it was the result of an extra "pin" in the case which didn't align with a hole in the motherboard. Someone else on the Internet solved exactly the same problem with the same case/MB combination so I ended up only had to slide some electrical tape under the known problem spot of the MB to fix the problem (i.e. I didn't have to remove the MB). Before I found my "fix" I was producing "spurious results" by pressing down at various placed on the MB. You might try that after you check out your power supply. Good luck! BTW, I recall now that I had a similar problem in another computer whenever Norton Antivirus woke up the computer to perform an "automatic update". I ended up solving that problem by switching to a different AV program. My only guess was that my (Corsair) 750W power supply caused too much of a power surge? Bill There are no entries in the event log other than for unexpected shutdown. Core Temp shows no unusually high temps; it has never logged anything closer than 35°C to TjMax. The inside and vents are clean- no cat hair or dust. The fans are all clean and running well. CHKDSK shows nothing wrong. MEMTEST86+ returns no problems. My specs a Lenovo H50-55 AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7 (12 Compute Cores 4C+8G) 3.50 GHz 12GB Ram 2Tb C: drive (came with the PC) 1Tb D: drive (used for data and movies, etc.) SATA DVD drive Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 video card Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Modular Power Supply (replaced the original 180W PSU to power the video card- wasn't impressed with the GPU graphics) Logitech M705 mouse MS SideWinder X4 keyboard Windows 10 Home x64 V.1709 (Build 16299.125) I'm getting ready to tear it down and check for puffed-up caps on the MB and PSU, give it an extreme cleaning, and pull the heatsink and apply new paste (replaced it about a year ago). Will reseat all cards, drive connectors, and memory sticks. Might as well replace the CMOS battery while I have it apart. Anything else I can check while I have it apart? Thanks for any suggestions :-) |
#8
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
Bill wrote:
I had a problem like that once and it was the result of an extra "pin" in the case which didn't align with a hole in the motherboard. Someone else on the Internet solved exactly the same problem with the same case/MB combination so I ended up only had to slide some electrical tape under the known problem spot of the MB to fix the problem (i.e. I didn't have to remove the MB). Before I found my "fix" I was producing "spurious results" by pressing down at various placed on the MB. You might try that after you check out your power supply. Good luck! BTW, I recall now that I had a similar problem in another computer whenever Norton Antivirus woke up the computer to perform an "automatic update". I ended up solving that problem by switching to a different AV program. My only guess was that my (Corsair) 750W power supply caused too much of a power surge? Bill The motherboards that are threaded, it's up to the user to figure out which inserts to install. They can have multiple patterns on the tray, and you have to compare the hole pattern on your new motherboard, to the options on the tray. There was at least one Asus motherboard, where one of the standard holes, an audio component on the solder side was too close to the standoff, and it would short out. There will be rare occasions where you have to not install a standoff in a location like that. And as for the computer cases with the "bumps" instead of tapped tray and brass standoff, just don't buy those. If there's anything wrong with a bump, it could need electrical tape or even dremel work. it's not worth it. When you have a sub-sized motherboard (outside profile smaller than the standard, like a 9.6"x7.0" microATX versus standard 9.6"x9.6"), you can place a rubber eraser under the unsupported edge of the smaller motherboard. And slice the eraser to the correct height. That gives support while inserting DIMMs. There's no support though, if you're later pulling up on a component. A "short" board tends to lose three mounting holes on the edge, which is where the erasers come in. Paul |
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
Paul wrote:
Bill wrote: I had a problem like that once and it was the result of an extra "pin" in the case which didn't align with a hole in the motherboard. Someone else on the Internet solved exactly the same problem with the same case/MB combination so I ended up only had to slide some electrical tape under the known problem spot of the MB to fix the problem (i.e. I didn't have to remove the MB). Before I found my "fix" I was producing "spurious results" by pressing down at various placed on the MB. You might try that after you check out your power supply. Good luck! BTW, I recall now that I had a similar problem in another computer whenever Norton Antivirus woke up the computer to perform an "automatic update". I ended up solving that problem by switching to a different AV program. My only guess was that my (Corsair) 750W power supply caused too much of a power surge? Bill The motherboards that are threaded, it's up to the user to figure out which inserts to install. They can have multiple patterns on the tray, and you have to compare the hole pattern on your new motherboard, to the options on the tray. Yes, I bought the computer "semi-built" (a few components installed in the case). I took it to a computer repair shop and they charged me forty or fifty dollars to recommend that I send it back to the vendor. I sent it back to the vendor, on my dime, and they returned it to me having the same problem. Fortunately, I ran across the problem/fix. Since then, I've become a bit more knowledgeable about working on computers (but I'm observing that this is sort of a moving target, albeit a slowly moving one) HNY, Bill There was at least one Asus motherboard, where one of the standard holes, an audio component on the solder side was too close to the standoff, and it would short out. There will be rare occasions where you have to not install a standoff in a location like that. And as for the computer cases with the "bumps" instead of tapped tray and brass standoff, just don't buy those. If there's anything wrong with a bump, it could need electrical tape or even dremel work. it's not worth it. When you have a sub-sized motherboard (outside profile smaller than the standard, like a 9.6"x7.0" microATX versus standard 9.6"x9.6"), you can place a rubber eraser under the unsupported edge of the smaller motherboard. And slice the eraser to the correct height. That gives support while inserting DIMMs. There's no support though, if you're later pulling up on a component. A "short" board tends to lose three mounting holes on the edge, which is where the erasers come in. Paul |
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Spontaneous Shutdown/Reboot
On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 00:49:06 -0500, Bill wrote:
Before I found my "fix" I was producing "spurious results" by pressing down at various placed on the MB. You might try that after you check out your power supply. Good luck! Yeppers. Variously "fixing" a few tubed amps with that method. Breadboard the chassis and use a rubber tube (ink eraser) for carefully pressure-testing audio dropouts. Hit-&-miss, or less than ideal factoring for "re-flowing" solder joints. Amps and Fx pedal boards, although usual and common fixes, being for not much other choice;...Least to mention cheap, being on my time. I've noted others use refrigeration (spray cans) for quick freezing areas with suspect "cold" solder joints in a similar fashion. Ribbons and PC data cables are another frequent area now for cutting amp costs, additions to a list of amp features that may oxidize into turning up suspect. Some pull them and redo the connections as a point-to-point safeguard. With a computer there's no re-flowing, and QC issues involving physical continuity at a core componentry level becomes altogether unacceptable. |
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