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#1
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Opteron 185 running hot
I've suffered a few BSODs after the PC has been on for a few hours, so I
think it must be a heat issue. So I loaded up ASUS probe and it says my Opteron 185 is running at 55° at idle. I don't know if ASUS probe is accurate for this particular setup or not. MB is an A8N-SLI with stock AMD HS and fan. The HS is clean and the fan is spinning at 5K RPM. Room temp. is 80° F BTW. Any idea if PC Probe II is accurate? If so, WTF is the Opteron running so hot? |
#2
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Opteron 185 running hot
Bill Stock wrote:
I've suffered a few BSODs after the PC has been on for a few hours, so I think it must be a heat issue. So I loaded up ASUS probe and it says my Opteron 185 is running at 55° at idle. I don't know if ASUS probe is accurate for this particular setup or not. MB is an A8N-SLI with stock AMD HS and fan. The HS is clean and the fan is spinning at 5K RPM. Room temp. is 80° F BTW. Any idea if PC Probe II is accurate? If so, WTF is the Opteron running so hot? 1) Run CPUZ and verify your frequencies. 2) Check the core voltage in Asus Probe. Note that if Cool N' Quiet is enabled and set up properly on the board, that the processor would operate at a variety of voltage/frequency values, as a function of load. Thus, you may want to load up the processor with a computing task (cpuburn, prime95, or the like) while doing measurements. It is harder to do a reliable idle reading, as the program doing the reading may cause the FID/VID to change. For examples of Cool N' Quiet voltage ranges, there are a couple docs here. Min Pstate is the Vcore at idle, if Cool N' Quiet is running. Max Pstate is the Vcore as seen when the CPU runs at full load, or if Cool N' Quiet is disabled. The OS adjusts FID/VID, something like 30 times a second. Which is why, watching Asus Probe take a reading once a second, is going to miss the details. Typical values might be 1.3V at Max and 1.1V at Min, and that helps reduce the idle power output. Similarly, the processor may have other features (bus disconnect on HLT and the like), which further improve idle power. Athlon64 http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...docs/30430.pdf Opteron - typical Pdiss 110W full power, 49W in Min Pstate. 185 is not listed ? http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...docs/30417.pdf An Opteron 185 uses 110W at full load. Nominal Vcore at full load is 1.3V or 1.35V. Varies from unit to unit, and may not be stamped on the box. It is actually pretty hard to draw any conclusions from a single voltage reading, because in fact there is a load line for the regulator. But if your voltage was way off, you may be able to detect that. http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/opte...n=OSA185DAA6CD For the CPU cooler to work, the computer case air temperature around the cooler, must be low enough for good heat transfer. For example, if room temp is 25C, a computer case or motherboard temperature of 32C or less, would make it well cooled. If the delta to room temperature is more than 10C, then you should work on improving your case cooling. For example, my room temperature is 25C (I have a room temperature sensor mounted in front of the computer, where the intake vent is). My internal case temp is 29C. I have a 120mm fan on the back, running at a pretty good speed. I removed the lower plastic bezel on my case, to expose more vent space. I removed the dust filter as well. My CPU never goes over about 43C (but it isn't as powerful as your processor). You could change CPU coolers, but that only makes sense if the air in the computer case is relatively cool. There are coolers with theta_R of less than 0.20C/W . With a 110W processor running flat out, you would expect a CPU delta_T of 0.20 * 110 = 22C above computer case air temperature. If the case was 29V, that would leave the processor at 29C + 22C = 51C. And that is a full load temp - at idle the delta would drop a bit less than half, or 29C + 11C or 40C. So there is some room for improvement. Example of a cooler with theta_R below 0.20C/W: http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/...x=165&code=005 The reason I'm suggesting checking frequencies and voltages, is the power dissipated is proportional to those. F*C*V**2 at normal operating values is listed at 110W. If the voltage is higher than the 1.3 or 1.35V nominal values, the power dissipated goes up as the square of the voltage, so that can have a bit of an effect. Hope that gives a few ideas, Paul |
#3
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Opteron 185 running hot
"Paul" wrote in message ... 1) Run CPUZ and verify your frequencies. 2) Check the core voltage in Asus Probe. Note that if Cool N' Quiet is enabled and set up properly on the board, that the processor would operate at a variety of voltage/frequency values, as a function of load. Thus, you may want to load up the processor with a computing task (cpuburn, prime95, or the like) while doing measurements. It is harder to do a reliable idle reading, as the program doing the reading may cause the FID/VID to change. For examples of Cool N' Quiet voltage ranges, there are a couple docs here. Min Pstate is the Vcore at idle, if Cool N' Quiet is running. Max Pstate is the Vcore as seen when the CPU runs at full load, or if Cool N' Quiet is disabled. The OS adjusts FID/VID, something like 30 times a second. Which is why, watching Asus Probe take a reading once a second, is going to miss the details. Typical values might be 1.3V at Max and 1.1V at Min, and that helps reduce the idle power output. Similarly, the processor may have other features (bus disconnect on HLT and the like), which further improve idle power. Athlon64 http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...docs/30430.pdf Opteron - typical Pdiss 110W full power, 49W in Min Pstate. 185 is not listed ? http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/cont...docs/30417.pdf An Opteron 185 uses 110W at full load. Nominal Vcore at full load is 1.3V or 1.35V. Varies from unit to unit, and may not be stamped on the box. It is actually pretty hard to draw any conclusions from a single voltage reading, because in fact there is a load line for the regulator. But if your voltage was way off, you may be able to detect that. http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/opte...n=OSA185DAA6CD For the CPU cooler to work, the computer case air temperature around the cooler, must be low enough for good heat transfer. For example, if room temp is 25C, a computer case or motherboard temperature of 32C or less, would make it well cooled. If the delta to room temperature is more than 10C, then you should work on improving your case cooling. For example, my room temperature is 25C (I have a room temperature sensor mounted in front of the computer, where the intake vent is). My internal case temp is 29C. I have a 120mm fan on the back, running at a pretty good speed. I removed the lower plastic bezel on my case, to expose more vent space. I removed the dust filter as well. My CPU never goes over about 43C (but it isn't as powerful as your processor). You could change CPU coolers, but that only makes sense if the air in the computer case is relatively cool. There are coolers with theta_R of less than 0.20C/W . With a 110W processor running flat out, you would expect a CPU delta_T of 0.20 * 110 = 22C above computer case air temperature. If the case was 29V, that would leave the processor at 29C + 22C = 51C. And that is a full load temp - at idle the delta would drop a bit less than half, or 29C + 11C or 40C. So there is some room for improvement. Example of a cooler with theta_R below 0.20C/W: http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/...x=165&code=005 The reason I'm suggesting checking frequencies and voltages, is the power dissipated is proportional to those. F*C*V**2 at normal operating values is listed at 110W. If the voltage is higher than the 1.3 or 1.35V nominal values, the power dissipated goes up as the square of the voltage, so that can have a bit of an effect. Hope that gives a few ideas, Paul Thanks Paul, that's an excellent reply. Sadly, my PC bit the big one at about 10:00 pm this evening. I'm somewhat glad that it's definitively dead, as opposed to months of BSODs. It might be the video card, as I got pretty coloured text on the last BSOD before it succumb. Oddly though, the UPS is also acting up now, charging and not shutting off. So it might also be a Power Supply problem. I've also read about the PCI-E slots dying on the A8N-SLI, so that's another possibility. I can't boot into the BIOS at all now, the screen comes up black after it POSTs and I hit the DEL key. If I let it continue past the POST screen, it dies halfway through the configuration screen. Just after I sent the first message, the CPU dropped to about 48/49 and stayed there, no idea why. Voltage was about 1.34 BTW and the MB temp was in the low 30s. So some better airflow will be in order, once I fix the current problem. |
#4
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Opteron 185 running hot
Bill Stock wrote:
Thanks Paul, that's an excellent reply. Sadly, my PC bit the big one at about 10:00 pm this evening. I'm somewhat glad that it's definitively dead, as opposed to months of BSODs. It might be the video card, as I got pretty coloured text on the last BSOD before it succumb. Oddly though, the UPS is also acting up now, charging and not shutting off. So it might also be a Power Supply problem. I've also read about the PCI-E slots dying on the A8N-SLI, so that's another possibility. I can't boot into the BIOS at all now, the screen comes up black after it POSTs and I hit the DEL key. If I let it continue past the POST screen, it dies halfway through the configuration screen. Just after I sent the first message, the CPU dropped to about 48/49 and stayed there, no idea why. Voltage was about 1.34 BTW and the MB temp was in the low 30s. So some better airflow will be in order, once I fix the current problem. Try powering the system, without the UPS in the path. Just in case the UPS is no longer delivering full line voltage. As for the current symptoms, are you saying that you see some of the BIOS screen or you are not seeing it ? If you see some BIOS screen, then the processor works, the PCI Express slot works, and at least the frame buffer on the video would be working. I think a PCI Express slot failure, would leave you with a black screen that never renders anything. You could try plugging the video into the other slot, assuming if there is a paddle card, it is in the x8/x8 setup. There are some ways to kill a processor, but you'd have to be overclocking for those to be applicable. I've read a couple descriptions, of what appeared to be electromigration failure. I've also read of problems with the FX series of processors, where the problem was traced to the delta between core voltage and memory voltage. (The datasheet doesn't specify that, but enthusiasts figured it out based on what systems were failing and what ones weren't.) Are you getting a burnt smell from any of your gear ? Perhaps that might hint at a part that has failed. Paul |
#5
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Opteron 185 running hot
"Paul" wrote in message ... Bill Stock wrote: Try powering the system, without the UPS in the path. Just in case the UPS is no longer delivering full line voltage. The UPS failed its power on test after I powered it off last night, so it's the most likely suspect. I just moved everything off the UPS, as my router and modem are also on the UPS. I can now get into the BIOS, but it can't find the BOOT disk.It sees SATA 1 and SATA 2, which are my striped drive. But it does not see SATA 3 and SATA 4. I was hoping it was a loose cable, but that does not appear to be the case. I'm a little ****ed that the UPS might have caused the very damage it's supposed to prevent. I had ordered a new battery for it, but I don't think I would trust it again. I'm not overclocking, the room temp is just too high in the summer. I would have to go back to water cooling, which was OK, but a bit of a PITA. The only smell is that of batteries cooking. :-( |
#6
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Opteron 185 running hot
"Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message ... Bill Stock wrote: Try powering the system, without the UPS in the path. Just in case the UPS is no longer delivering full line voltage. The UPS failed its power on test after I powered it off last night, so it's the most likely suspect. I just moved everything off the UPS, as my router and modem are also on the UPS. I can now get into the BIOS, but it can't find the BOOT disk.It sees SATA 1 and SATA 2, which are my striped drive. But it does not see SATA 3 and SATA 4. I was hoping it was a loose cable, but that does not appear to be the case. I tried moving Sata 3 and Sata 4 to the Sata 1 and Sata 2 connectors in hopes of booting up. But then the system does not see any drives. So on the bright side, the SATA interface seems to be OK, but the drives or PS are fried. I'll play with the power combinations later to see which drive/PS is fried. Although I find it unlikley that only one PS lead would be faulty. It's likely that one or both drives on that PS connector got cooked. I'm a little ****ed that the UPS might have caused the very damage it's supposed to prevent. I had ordered a new battery for it, but I don't think I would trust it again. I'm not overclocking, the room temp is just too high in the summer. I would have to go back to water cooling, which was OK, but a bit of a PITA. The only smell is that of batteries cooking. :-( |
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