Cooper or gold heatsink?

Peter Hucker wrote:

What I am suspecting is the heatsink gunk. They supplied that
silicone grease. I've never liked that stuff, it's nowhere near as
effieient (probably as half of it oozes out under the pressure when
you clamp the heatsink on) as the thermnal tape stuff that comes on
boxed athlons. I might have to see if I can buy some of that tape
stuff. It's like a sort of bluetack consistency.

Thermal grease (if good quality), will out perform the bubblegum that you
are about to change to, by quite a big margin.

Saying that half of it oozes out points to incorrect application on your
part. For an athlon-sized core use a tiny amount (half a grain of rice at
most) and spread it paper thin onto the core using a suitable spreader.

I suggest cutting your credit card in half length ways and using it to
spread the thermal compound, this should allow you to get an even
application with the added bonus that you won't be able to buy any more crap
kit.

On a serious note ensure that both core and heatsink base are very clean,
using Isopropyl alcohol if possible with a lint-free cloth. Rub a small
amount of the thermal compound into the heatsink base and clean it off with
a dry lint-free cloth, this will fill any microscopic scratches, you should
not be able to see any compound after cleaning. Apply compound to the core
as described above and fit the heatsink.

HTH

--
Ian

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 09:11:49 +0100, Apollo wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

What I am suspecting is the heatsink gunk. They supplied that
silicone grease. I've never liked that stuff, it's nowhere near as
effieient (probably as half of it oozes out under the pressure when
you clamp the heatsink on) as the thermnal tape stuff that comes on
boxed athlons. I might have to see if I can buy some of that tape
stuff. It's like a sort of bluetack consistency.

Thermal grease (if good quality), will out perform the bubblegum that you
are about to change to, by quite a big margin.

Saying that half of it oozes out points to incorrect application on your
part. For an athlon-sized core use a tiny amount (half a grain of rice at
most) and spread it paper thin onto the core using a suitable spreader.

Um surely too much will just cause the excess to ooze out lkeaving the correct amount?

Anyway I may be ****e at it, so I'll stick to what works best for me - a pad.

I suggest cutting your credit card in half length ways and using it to
spread the thermal compound, this should allow you to get an even
application with the added bonus that you won't be able to buy any more crap
kit.

ROTFPMSL! But I'll use one of the other 8!

On a serious note ensure that both core and heatsink base are very clean,
using Isopropyl alcohol if possible with a lint-free cloth. Rub a small
amount of the thermal compound into the heatsink base and clean it off with
a dry lint-free cloth, this will fill any microscopic scratches, you should
not be able to see any compound after cleaning. Apply compound to the core
as described above and fit the heatsink.

Hmmm never thought of CLEANING the thing. I'll try that.

--
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93 silly video clips http://www.insanevideoclips.com
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Served from a watercooled dual 3.2GHz silent Athlon with 512GB of watercooled Raid.

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Peter Hucker wrote:

ROTFPMSL! But I'll use one of the other 8!


;-) same as me then.

On a serious note ensure that both core and heatsink base are very
clean, using Isopropyl alcohol if possible with a lint-free cloth.
Rub a small amount of the thermal compound into the heatsink base
and clean it off with a dry lint-free cloth, this will fill any
microscopic scratches, you should not be able to see any compound
after cleaning. Apply compound to the core as described above and
fit the heatsink.

Hmmm never thought of CLEANING the thing. I'll try that.

Cleanliness is very very important, never use your fingers to spread the
stuff, you contaminate it with greases / skin cells etc. The aim is to get
an extremely thin layer of thermal compound on the core, metal to metal
conducts heat best and the thin layer is only there to fill the tiny
scratches (think peaks and valleys). Metal to thermal-blutack-stuff to
metal gives relatively poor thermal conduction compared to properly applied
thermal grease.

Give it another go with the grease supplied (or go buy some arctic silver)
it does take some practice to get the layer thin and even, but it's worth
it. I did one the other day and had to wipe it clean twice and start again
before I was happy with it. IMHO it seems a shame to spend that kind of
money on watercooling and install the waterblocks with bubblegum crap.

--
Ian

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 13:58:59 +0100, Apollo wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

ROTFPMSL! But I'll use one of the other 8!


;-) same as me then.

I got 8 so I could pick and choose. The offers keep moving about, and some do stupid things like charging me fees, which I phone them about, and if they don't refund them, the card is cut into pieces and returned to the manager.

On a serious note ensure that both core and heatsink base are very
clean, using Isopropyl alcohol if possible with a lint-free cloth.
Rub a small amount of the thermal compound into the heatsink base
and clean it off with a dry lint-free cloth, this will fill any
microscopic scratches, you should not be able to see any compound
after cleaning. Apply compound to the core as described above and
fit the heatsink.

Hmmm never thought of CLEANING the thing. I'll try that.

Cleanliness is very very important, never use your fingers to spread the
stuff, you contaminate it with greases / skin cells etc. The aim is to get
an extremely thin layer of thermal compound on the core, metal to metal
conducts heat best and the thin layer is only there to fill the tiny
scratches (think peaks and valleys). Metal to thermal-blutack-stuff to
metal gives relatively poor thermal conduction compared to properly applied
thermal grease.

Give it another go with the grease supplied (or go buy some arctic silver)
it does take some practice to get the layer thin and even, but it's worth
it. I did one the other day and had to wipe it clean twice and start again
before I was happy with it. IMHO it seems a shame to spend that kind of
money on watercooling and install the waterblocks with bubblegum crap.

It's not really to make it ultra cool. As long as it's well within spec. My aim is to make it run silently, while not overheating.

I've got CPUs at 50C, water at 35C, and room at 25C. Does this sound reasonable?




--
13 parrots and rising http://www.petersparrots.com
93 silly video clips http://www.insanevideoclips.com
1259 digital photos http://www.petersphotos.com
Served from a watercooled dual 3.2GHz silent Athlon with 512GB of watercooled Raid.

They say confuscious does his crosswords with a pen.

Peter Hucker wrote:

It's not really to make it ultra cool. As long as it's well within
spec. My aim is to make it run silently, while not overheating.

I've got CPUs at 50C, water at 35C, and room at 25C. Does this sound
reasonable?

What mobo is it?
what prog are you using to measure the cpu temp?

I ask because some mobos cannot measure the cpu diode temp only the cpu
socket temp. The socket usually reads ~10C cooler than the cpu core. If
50C is the core diode temp and not the socket temp then it's reasonable.

I get room 22C, water 29C and socket 37C (~47C core, mobo can't measure cpu
diode) on mobile athlon 2400 (35w) o/c to 2.6 GHz, 1.8vcore, cpu, gpu &
northbridge watercooled.

--
Ian

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 19:02:45 +0100, Apollo wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

It's not really to make it ultra cool. As long as it's well within
spec. My aim is to make it run silently, while not overheating.

I've got CPUs at 50C, water at 35C, and room at 25C. Does this sound
reasonable?

What mobo is it?

MSI K7D Master with two Athlon MP 2800+

what prog are you using to measure the cpu temp?

BIOS, and the supplied Fuzzy logic 4 and PC Alert 3.

I ask because some mobos cannot measure the cpu diode temp only the cpu
socket temp. The socket usually reads ~10C cooler than the cpu core. If
50C is the core diode temp and not the socket temp then it's reasonable.

Well it appears to crash around 70 - which would that suggest?

I get room 22C, water 29C and socket 37C (~47C core, mobo can't measure cpu
diode) on mobile athlon 2400 (35w) o/c to 2.6 GHz, 1.8vcore, cpu, gpu &
northbridge watercooled.

Sounds not bad then.


--
13 parrots and rising http://www.petersparrots.com
93 silly video clips http://www.insanevideoclips.com
1259 digital photos http://www.petersphotos.com
Served from a watercooled dual 3.2GHz silent Athlon with 512GB of watercooled Raid.

WinError: Unable to exit Windows. Try the door.

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 19:02:45 +0100, Apollo
wrote:

What mobo is it?

MSI K7D Master with two Athlon MP 2800+

what prog are you using to measure the cpu temp?

BIOS, and the supplied Fuzzy logic 4 and PC Alert 3.


I don't know anything about that mobo or software, sorry.

I use Motherboard Monitor, you can pick the sensors to display, so if you
pick the diode and the mobo can't measure it, you get some bizzare reading,
I get -46C for my diode ;-)

I'd suggest trying it, takes a while to set up but can display and log; all
voltages, fan speeds (if connected to mobo headers), temperatures and lots
of other useful stuff. http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

If you click on Motherboard list (on the same site), find your mobo and it
tells you what sensor chips are used for what, it doesn't show 'diode' next
to the sensors for your mobo, maybe it is socket temp, someone here should
know I imagine.

I ask because some mobos cannot measure the cpu diode temp only the
cpu socket temp. The socket usually reads ~10C cooler than the cpu
core. If 50C is the core diode temp and not the socket temp then
it's reasonable.

Well it appears to crash around 70 - which would that suggest?

Again this could point to the socket being read, Athlons IIRC are rated for
85C, although I panic if mine hit 55C socket temp. The 50C you mentioned
before is under full load isn't it? If you're getting 50C at idle that's
too hot.

I get room 22C, water 29C and socket 37C (~47C core, mobo can't
measure cpu diode) on mobile athlon 2400 (35w) o/c to 2.6 GHz,
1.8vcore, cpu, gpu & northbridge watercooled.

Sounds not bad then.

I must admit that I'm addicted to overclocking ;o)

--
Ian

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 21:02:53 +0100, Apollo wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 19:02:45 +0100, Apollo
wrote:

What mobo is it?

MSI K7D Master with two Athlon MP 2800+

what prog are you using to measure the cpu temp?

BIOS, and the supplied Fuzzy logic 4 and PC Alert 3.

I don't know anything about that mobo or software, sorry.

I use Motherboard Monitor, you can pick the sensors to display, so if you
pick the diode and the mobo can't measure it, you get some bizzare reading,
I get -46C for my diode ;-)

I'd suggest trying it, takes a while to set up but can display and log; all
voltages, fan speeds (if connected to mobo headers), temperatures and lots
of other useful stuff. http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

If you click on Motherboard list (on the same site), find your mobo and it
tells you what sensor chips are used for what, it doesn't show 'diode' next
to the sensors for your mobo, maybe it is socket temp, someone here should
know I imagine.

I have motherboard monitor, used to use it. I'll give it a shot again....

I ask because some mobos cannot measure the cpu diode temp only the
cpu socket temp. The socket usually reads ~10C cooler than the cpu
core. If 50C is the core diode temp and not the socket temp then
it's reasonable.

Well it appears to crash around 70 - which would that suggest?

Again this could point to the socket being read, Athlons IIRC are rated for
85C, although I panic if mine hit 55C socket temp. The 50C you mentioned
before is under full load isn't it? If you're getting 50C at idle that's
too hot.

I get room 22C, water 29C and socket 37C (~47C core, mobo can't
measure cpu diode) on mobile athlon 2400 (35w) o/c to 2.6 GHz,
1.8vcore, cpu, gpu & northbridge watercooled.

Sounds not bad then.

I must admit that I'm addicted to overclocking ;o)

I'd be happy to get this stable UNDERclocked!

Know anything about STOP errors?

IRQ not less than or equal.
Something or other about a yield was attempted.


--
13 parrots and rising http://www.petersparrots.com
93 silly video clips http://www.insanevideoclips.com
1259 digital photos http://www.petersphotos.com
Served from a watercooled dual 3.2GHz silent Athlon with 512GB of watercooled Raid.

When shagging a goat you are best taking it to the edge of a cliff because they push back harder. -- Billy Connely

hi

i have a watercooled setup also, and your temp. is quite hi (cpu), suggest
bad aligment of block maybe.

I've got CPUs at 50C, water at 35C, and room at 25C. Does this sound
reasonable?
to small radiator and maybe to little flow also. watertemp should only be a
couple of degrees over airtemp.

my numbers: cpu 42°c, water 25°c and air 22°c. cpu is 2500 @ 2300mhz vcore
1.7v 100% load (prime).
i got two hardware labs extreme II with two 120mm fans eatch in
semiparallell setup. (cpu temp is diod, motherboard said to report higher
temp than real, i dont know but mb cpu-backside is cool)

IRQ not less than or equal.
can be a lot of things, first to come is drivers, may be hardware
overheating/oc to much.

coco

"Peter Hucker" skrev i meddelandet
newspsadkyrf5aiowgp@blue...
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 21:02:53 +0100, Apollo
wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 19:02:45 +0100, Apollo
wrote:

What mobo is it?

MSI K7D Master with two Athlon MP 2800+

what prog are you using to measure the cpu temp?

BIOS, and the supplied Fuzzy logic 4 and PC Alert 3.

I don't know anything about that mobo or software, sorry.

I use Motherboard Monitor, you can pick the sensors to display, so if
you
pick the diode and the mobo can't measure it, you get some bizzare
reading,
I get -46C for my diode ;-)

I'd suggest trying it, takes a while to set up but can display and log;
all
voltages, fan speeds (if connected to mobo headers), temperatures and
lots
of other useful stuff. http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

If you click on Motherboard list (on the same site), find your mobo and
it
tells you what sensor chips are used for what, it doesn't show 'diode'
next
to the sensors for your mobo, maybe it is socket temp, someone here
should
know I imagine.

I have motherboard monitor, used to use it. I'll give it a shot again....

I ask because some mobos cannot measure the cpu diode temp only the
cpu socket temp. The socket usually reads ~10C cooler than the cpu
core. If 50C is the core diode temp and not the socket temp then
it's reasonable.

Well it appears to crash around 70 - which would that suggest?

Again this could point to the socket being read, Athlons IIRC are rated
for
85C, although I panic if mine hit 55C socket temp. The 50C you
mentioned
before is under full load isn't it? If you're getting 50C at idle
that's
too hot.

I get room 22C, water 29C and socket 37C (~47C core, mobo can't
measure cpu diode) on mobile athlon 2400 (35w) o/c to 2.6 GHz,
1.8vcore, cpu, gpu & northbridge watercooled.

Sounds not bad then.

I must admit that I'm addicted to overclocking ;o)

I'd be happy to get this stable UNDERclocked!

Know anything about STOP errors?

IRQ not less than or equal.
Something or other about a yield was attempted.


--
13 parrots and rising http://www.petersparrots.com
93 silly video clips http://www.insanevideoclips.com
1259 digital photos http://www.petersphotos.com
Served from a watercooled dual 3.2GHz silent Athlon with 512GB of
watercooled Raid.

When shagging a goat you are best taking it to the edge of a cliff because
they push back harder. -- Billy Connely

Peter Hucker wrote:

I'd be happy to get this stable UNDERclocked!

Know anything about STOP errors?

IRQ not less than or equal.
Something or other about a yield was attempted.

Can I suggest that you start a new thread, this one no longer relates to
your original question, and it could go on for a while.

I've suffered with that stop error, do you get a chance to write the error
down? or does it just restart? Stop the restart by going into System
Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery Settings - uncheck Automatically
Restart.

Could be;
Memory - occasional fault, run memtest86 from boot-cd, for a few hours.
Bios - update to latest version.
Temperature - possible from what you've said already.

Drivers - I upgraded my ati drivers two weeks ago and started getting this
stop again, downgrade and it stopped the error. Probably not an ati driver
problem as no other reports of this error.

This stop seems quite common for windows versions using virtual irqs, I have
never found a solution, only the suggestions given above. Try what I
suggest in that order, I can cause the error by overclocking my memory too
much and memtest does indeed report errors at the that fsb speed even with
the multiplyer lowered to give a low overall cpu speed.

If memtest gives you errors, try relaxing the timings and retesting.

--
Ian