Thread: Getting there
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Old March 8th 20, 08:59 PM posted to alt.comp.hardware
Paul[_28_]
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Default Getting there

Norm Why wrote:
A lot of the time, BIOS flashers are MSDOS ones.

In some cases, by having a FAT32 partition and hard drive
on the machine, flash images larger than a floppy can contain,
can be stored on the hard drive instead.

A few flashers are Windows ones. But you have to be careful, as some
of those rely on networking, and you can be "half-flashed"
when the network connection drops and then you're bricked.
It's better if the BIOS file is locally staged first, before
the operation starts in such cases.

Some BIOS flasher operations, are done by the BIOS itself.
The reason the BIOS can do it, is the BIOS image is "shadowed"
to RAM, leaving the BIOS chip free to be re-flashed.

And the previous owner may have selected a certain version
of flashed image on purpose.

The last two computers I built up, I didn't change the
flash version on them. They already seemed to be working fine.

The flasher program can compare the release number scheme, to
what is already in the flash chip. Sometimes a flash fails,
because you're using the wrong family of chip image, and there is
some sort of basic check it does for sanity. With no guarantees
that such a check works properly, but it is one more check before
the operation goes forward. There's a field down near the end
of the ROM image it's using to check. Occasionally, it takes
a special version of the flasher program, to "flash backwards"
and restore an older version to the motherboard.

Paul


Thanks Paul.

I've found many useful BIOS settings. USB keyboard is enabled by default so
I enabled USB mouse in BIOS. There is a BIOS setting to select display; PCI
VGA or PCIe graphics. I selected the latter and now I no longer need the
1600x900 VGA monitor. PCIe graphics is a boon for Win10, which will not work
with PCI VGA. Win10 boots but has problems not yet resolved. F8 safe mode
may be enabled, I don't remember.

A bootable Win10 USB stick may or may not work; that is trial and error. I
would need to buy a suitable USB thumb drive and create the bootable Win10
USB stick in the library which has reliable WiFi.

As soon as possible, I need to install all Gigabyte device drives on my
Win10. Being correctly configured for the new hardware would make my Win10
boot reliably.

Later.


When Windows 10 is properly installed on a hard drive
or SSD, the driver installation is automatic.

The only exception here of note, is my Hauppauge TV tuner
does not have a driver on the Microsoft server. (This is
also a problem, coincidentally, when running Linux, but for
a different reason.)

*******

There is this option, but it didn't work properly when I tested it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_To_Go

*******

You can load a Windows 10 installer onto a USB stick, so that
you can install the OS on your hard drive. That uses WinPE for
as long as the installation first phase takes. The installer
also supports a Command Prompt window. In such a window you
can run CHKDSK or sfc /scannow, that wort of thing. You can
perform "offline maintenance" on an installed C: on the hard drive.

Make sure your hardware is fully tested, before wasting too
much time on Windows. If the hardware isn't healthy, Windows
won't stay healthy forever either.

Paul