First, Thanks for all the help!
I have tried a massive solid copper sink with a 7K rpm fan, a stock fan, and
the one I have now. I believe that Kevin that posted an answer to my
dilemma, hit the nail on the head, that is the best description of power
usage/heat dissipation I have read. I will, use some of his information to
solve my problems, I am going to use a 7Krpm fan, with an adjustable
rheostat to keep noise down when I'm not under a heavy load, and combine
that fan with a heat sink that has better thermal dissipation.
Thanks to all for the help,
Bitsbucket
"sdlomi" wrote in message
...

"Bitsbucket" wrote in message
s.com...
Header says it all, I overclocked my 2500+ Barton core to 3200+ speed by
upping the FSB to 200MHz. This results in about a 5 to 7 degree C
increase
in diode temp. Should it go THAT much higher? I am using an Antec fan I
picked up at Circuit City, has a copper plate for the bottom and VERY
fine
fins, fan around 2800 rpm.
BUT it dosen't matter if I use that fan or a MONSTER solid copper job
with
a
fan from hell, (read LOUD) runs about 7K rpm. I just can't figure out
how
to
get the temps down, Vcore is stock, cover is off the side, 1 incoming
fan
and 3 exhaust fans. When I put my hand near the CPU I can feel the heat!
There has got to be something better, I know I'm negating the intake and
exhaust fans with the cover off, but I don't think it will be any better
with the cover on (or maybe it would?????) ambient temp is around 70 deg
F
in the room, celing fan running so there is plenty of air movement in
the
room...........any ideas? I just set the clock back to 2500+ and now I'm
running 45 to 47 deg C on the diode........at 3200+ it runs around 49 to
52
C (all temps are at idle, unless I run something then it jumps to the
higher
numbers)
What is too hot? 60C is what I'm thinking that is why I don't like those
52
and even some 56 C when something intensive is running....
TIA
Bitsbucket


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Hi, 'bb'. Personally, sounds like your problem is in the hs/fan
and/or
its contact with the chip. Dunno what a Barton looks like, sizewise, but
if
it's similar in size to my XP2100+, I'd guess you need a more effective
cooler. So tiny, yet so hot. Guess the smaller it is, the better hs/fan
we
need, all else equal. And another thing I've found is that when I try to
troubleshoot a too-hot system--even with a known powerful-enough hs/fan--I
try to remove the hs/fan as a jeweler might: v-e-r-y carefully. Noticed
that in most instances, even with say a huge TT-Volcano & 7000 rpm's & all
that copper, etc., that when it comes up--WITHOUT SLIDING--there is a
"smear" completely void of paste. Also, there appears to be virtually no
paste AT ALL on the rectangular die(?) or on the hs-surface. From this it
appears that when the hs/fan was being attached, it was slid around almost
as if one was attempting to "clear all that muck out of the way".
So, in trying to be careful to not break the holding tabs on the
ceramic
(and I have done it too), we end up wiping away the very paste from the
very
spot where we wanted it most. Hence, like no paste at all. When hs/fans
are this difficult to install, we might be better off using the thermal
pads!?!? Lesson: whatever it takes, lay the hs-surface onto the cpu ONCE
and with NO sliding AT ALL. Sorry, I have no tips to ease this precision
step. But seems it is a MUST.
Can you try to borrow a STOCK hs/fan from a friend who has bought
himself a $50 replacement?. It attaches easy, can be fastened with ONE
laying down, & with NO slipping/smearing the paste. And see what your
idle
temps are with no overclocking. Bet your idle temps are several degrees
cooler than with your Cct. City cooler. And if you can start w/lower
temps, even w/the climb being the same when overclocking, the final temp.
should make you happy. Still might need to get a better cooler than
stock.
Feel sure it's designed for stock speeds and might not suffice for the
overclock.
Think we're gonna find that to cool adequately, using 'conventional'
sized heatsinks and fans, that it's gonna take a minimum of around 4000
rpm's to do the job. Of course, the TMD(?)-fans--the ones with magnetic
bearings which eliminate the usual dead-spot-in-the-middle--do the job at
lower rpm's. This 4000 guess applies like to my TT-CU6 or 7 or 8(?poor
memory). It needs to run ~4600 to keep mine a tad cooler than most people
desire.
Hope some of this rambling helps out. If you, or anyone has any good
tips on how to attach these things without "wiping", please report to
us(or
email me by removing the obvious). It is one of the most difficult tasks
I
face in 'playing' with comp's. Too often I have to re-install after
verifying temps.
Merry Christmas