Bill Anderson wrote:
On 3/14/2016 2:29 PM, Paul wrote:
Bill Anderson wrote:


So, I want a new case and a new cooler. And I want the case to keep
my processor nice and chilly while remaining quiet, quiet, just as
silent as possible. And I've Googled Tom's Hardware and I've Googled
here and there and my head is spinning and I'm not finding anything
that says: "Here's the coolest, quietest plan for your build." But I
have found all sorts of nifty cases with big plexiglas windows and
flashy lights and glowing blue fans and dual exhaust tail fins too, I
think. Don't want that. Plain and simple will do just fine.



The problem is likely to be the default BIOS setting.

And the question would be, can you afford to lose about
14% of your peak performance ?

Set Turbo Mode to Disable.

Paul, I've done some major snipping, not because I didn't find what you
wrote helpful, but because I just wanted to shorten this thread.

At first I thought you were on to something. I went into BIOS and sure
enough, Turbo was enabled -- so I disabled it. No more turbo.

Then I ran my software and before long, bam! All the cores shot to 100%
on my CPU Usage gadget and the beeping commenced.

It would be interesting to test power usage with Kill-A-Watt but I don't
have one and I truly believe a bigger case and cooling apparatus will do
the trick.

I mean, the problem can't be just tight quarters, can it? When I slide
the cpu case out of its cubbyhole and open the lid to expose everything
to the room and then put a pretty powerful fan right on everything to
pump fresh air into every nook and cranny -- I'd think at that point my
current cooler would get things under control if it could get things
under control. And in fact, for many jobs this works and the temps
hover in the 70s celsius and there are no beeps. But when my new
software gets going, there's no way that little cooler can do the job.
I've got to put the chill on the cpu.



*******

Now, that being said, you can't "stuff a 182W computer
in a breadbox". The laws of physics have not been
repealed.


Exactly. So I'm planning to get a bigger breadbox and a cooler that
should be able to handle the high temps, and then set it all outside my
cabinet. Gil suggested I go with Cooler Master and he recommended a
full tower. That would mean I'd definitely have to set it out of the
cabinet and on the floor. I've also found a mid-tower that claims to be
a High Air Flow model:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-233-_-Product


I like it also because it doesn't have a glowing fan or a big window.
But is it big enough? It supports 120mm fans, and the cooler I'm
looking at has 140mm fans.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...15,4000-3.html


So maybe I'll have to take Gil's advice and go with a full tower. But
even his Cooler Master seems to support only 120mm fans. The Tom's
Hardware page for the cooler says they used this case for a build:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-054-_-Product


Guess that would work. Oh look, glowing red fans. How perfectly
wonderful.

So...case plus cooler plus PCIe USB 3.0 card (which will have to go in a
PCI slot which I've read will work, I hope.

Think this'll do the trick? The Corsair case and the Kraken cooler?


Once you go with the larger case, and the case is no longer
inside the furniture, you have a lot more options.

You can use air cooling or liquid cooling. The objective is
to get the heat outside the case, so if the liquid radiator stays
inside the case, you'll still need enough airflow on the
rear fan, to exhaust the hot air.

One purpose of liquid cooling loops, is to allow higher
overclocks. But if air will do the job, then you
don't have to worry about liquid leaks. (That used to be
a problem with custom liquid cooling, but less so with
fixed retail loops.)

This picture is Speedfan. On the left, is a 7ZIP run.
Then, back to baseline (no-load). Followed by some
Prime95. There's about a 22C rise from the baseline
to the Prime95 temperature. And that's the NH-D15
with only the middle fan installed. I removed the
outside fan, to make a bit more room.

http://s27.postimg.org/nhknfbx4j/thermals.gif

I have a suspicion your sudden jump in temperature,
may be due to your software using both the GPU (shaders)
as well as the CPU. Which is two heat sources, compared
to my one heat source. As my HD6450 can't cook anything,
no matter how it's configured. I think it's around 17W
max, and 3W idle. Gutless.

Paul