Well, thanks for the info in this thread. I've just found an issue with
a bad jack/plug that I compounded with a cheap knock off supply
replacement. With the info I've found here and on Compaq's site I'm
going to do the repair myself.
Just thought I'd throw a few things out for those attempting the
same...
_PART_INFO_
'Laptopjacks.com' (
http://www.laptopjacks.com) has info for DC input
jacks for all kinds of machines. Am I the only one that finds a site
devoted to this issue amusing? Anyway, it gives you a part number to
go with even if you don't order from them (they're pricey @ $8ea and
$8S&H for a one-off item). For compaq presario 2100 series laptops,
the part appears to be 'CQ21325'
(
http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_part.php?id=CQ21325)
_SOLDERING_TIPS_
Generally speaking, you want high heat for short periods of time. The
solder should liquify almost instantly. Sustained heat on a PCB is not
a good thing and can damage pads/traces.
Use pure solder, not resin core stuff. It's bulky, it makes a mess and
isn't necessary on PCB soldering.
To remove solder, a de-soldering tool (like a mini turkey baster) can
suck up liquid (molten) solder or you can use solder-wick (copper mesh
that absorbes solder).
When removing defective components, I find it easier to snip them off
at the legs/pins and remove the individual legs one at a time instead
of trying to get the entire thing out together.
When soldering, I find it best to heat the pin/wire and apply solder to
the pin. This avoids heat transfer to the board as much as possible.
Solder joints should taper up like a hershey's kiss, not mound up like
a bubble. It should also be shiny. Dull/low-luster solder "balls" are
usually cold solder joints and are not dependable, particularly on
something that will see some abuse.
--
RobBob
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