micky wrote:
I wanted to get more RAM for my newly-acquired PC
Entering the make and model, HP EliteDesk 800 G1 Small Form Factor
Crucial suggests only CT2K102464BD160B
DDR3 PC3-12800 • CL=11 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.35V •
1024Meg x 64 • $76 even cheaper at NewEgg,
Kingston suggests only KCP316ND8/8
Specs: DDR3, 1600MHz, Non-ECC, CL11, X8, 1.5V, Unbuffered, DIMM,
240-pin, 2R, 4Gbit $98
You're surprised that company suggests companyProduct?
The items are in different order but the main difference seems to me to
be 1.35v vs 1.5v.
I already have 2 sticks, Do I want to get the same voltage that they
use, whatever that is?
Then you'll have to check what you have for the old sticks to get their
specs on voltage. Or you could use CPU-Z to look under the SPD tab to
see what the memory sticks say are their specs. SPD is what the
firmware on the stick says are its ratings, not at what someone happened
to set the BIOS clocks and voltages. If the BIOS is configured for Auto
config on memory, the SPD settings get used, but using the lowest common
denominators. If one stick has CAS 9 but another has CAS 11, then CAS
11 gets used. If one is at 1.35V but another is 1.5V then 1.5V gets
used. If you tweaked the memory settings for overclocking, or because
you found upping the voltage turns an iffy quality/brand of stick into a
reliable one, then only some SPD settings apply. You could check the
BIOS settings for memory to see if set to Auto or SPD, or if tweaked.
If you don't want to use CPU-Z, you can use WMIC in an admin-level
command shell to get some memory specs. See:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-g...tor-windows-10
However, I don't recall you can get the voltages for the existing memory
modules using WMIC. I suspect you need to look in the BIOS for that, or
use a tool that reports the memory voltage(s). CPU-Z's SPD tab shows
what the stick is rated, not what might be currently used. However,
both WMIC and CPU-Z will tell you the brand and model of the existing
memory modules, so you could look up the specs. At one time, I used to
use Speedfan, and it shows the current voltage for the memory sticks.
Some other hints at:
https://www.techwalla.com/articles/h...ck-ram-voltage.
FTR, I only looked at Newegg because Crucial was out of stock. NewEgg
says "Ships from China. Newegg Most customers receive within 10-32
days."
Where do you think all those memory modules are manufactured? If the
item says it ships from China, that means the seller does not have
regional warehouses in your country to stock their products. If the
shipping time is a month, or longer (often 45 days), then the long delay
is because the item has yet to go through customs, and is not in stock
in a US-based warehouse.
https://www.newegg.com/tools/memory-...9%20500 08476
Using their Memory Finder, selecting the best brands, and ship from USA,
there were 38 matches. The SFF box takes up to 32 GB of memory. I'm
assuming the pics I saw of the mobo means you have 4 slots. Personally
I would buy all the same brand and model for all 4 sticks. I didn't see
Newegg selling a 4-stick 32GB set, so you'd get two 2-stick 16GB sets (2
sets of 8GB/module, 2 modules), but that's me to eliminate future
headaches and troubleshooting.
With Newegg, I make sure to select Newegg as the seller. Then I deal
with Newegg (usually quick and hassle-free) instead of a 3rd party
seller. With Walmart, I select Walmart as the retailer. To return
means either printing a prepaid return shipping label, or taking to a
local retail store. Lots of e-tail sites offer storefronts to 3rd party
sellers, but usually there's an option to search on items sold only by
the e-tail site, and not from some 3rd party storefront. I've bought
from Walmart but the item came from Mayfair which can be bitch for
returns/refunds and you pay the return shipping, but Walmart as seller
means I deal with Walmart which is much easier and faster (they dole out
a prepaid return shipping label, and issue a refund as soon as the
shipper's status shows they got the package). Amazon does NOT have a
"Seller = Amazon" option during search, and why I don't often go there.
By the way, Crucial, Kingston, and other name-brand memory sellers are
NOT memory manufacturers. They contract to get items that meet their
criteria for the product on which they slap on their sticker. When
buying those brands, it's because the manufacturer is obviously not
going to deal with a single-purchase of miniscule quantity, so you need
to buy from someone that buys in bulk from them, and you're paying for
their assurance regarding quality an accuracy. For example, I've bought
Corsair PSUs, but Corsair doesn't make 'em. If the ink doesn't get
lifted off the memory modules on the PCB, or they haven't washed the
card with acetone, you could peel off their sticker to see who actually
made the chips, or sometimes the entire assembly (PCB + chips).
But this doesn't matter until I understand the voltage question.
With all else equal, 1.5V DIMMs consume a bit more power than 1.35V
DIMMs. Less power means less heat. See:
https://br.crucial.com/support/artic...voltage-memory
Just as with CAS, the SPD of all memory sticks is interrogated and the
slowest CAS is used across all sticks. Same for voltage: if you have a
1.5V DIMM and add a dual-voltage 1.35V/1.5V DIMM, all sticks run at
1.5V.
Alas, HP does not specify if they support just DDR3 or also DDR3L in
their product page. However, did you even read the manual? I found it
at:
https://support.hp.com/us-en/product...roubleshooting
and clicked on the "Manuals" link. They have a hardware manual. Read
it, especially page 21.
It's now up to YOU to figure out what you have for the old two 8GB
memory modules sitting in the mobo slots. The specs probably won't tell
you, especially since the mobo can handle dual voltage, and it was up to
whomever fabbed the mobo to decide what to install.