Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector
ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. Thanks, John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On Fri, 8 Jun 2018 17:57:32 -0000 (UTC), "Yes"
wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. Thanks, John An extension cable for the 4 more signal pins than USB2. Presuming the KISS principle and a couple backplane ports. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-.../dp/B00NH12O5I You'll need a MB equipped with USB3 headers to cable a similar setup, similarly dangling out of where your case USB2 headers, if not a replacement then presently used on front USB3 paneled cases. I'd figured for the first but hadn't looked it up. For my purposes 3M is far too long, suspecting Ebay may have something in my range for a tenth the price. Clutter as horror is subject to relevancy given peculiar viewpoint. I personally like consoles, for instance, with a long gangway and a chair to roll around Command Central. Nothing being no more secured or tightened down than it really need be, most of all then for easy accessibility plucking, of course, where one other than Maintenance actually matters. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Yes wrote:
I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. The problem is getting the case mounting ports that fit that case. The USB port may not have its own bracket with tangs to snap into a hole in the case. Rather it will be soldered onto a PCB that is positioned behind the case. http://i53.tinypic.com/2ik886t.jpg My guess (since I couldn't find an inside view of that spot inside the case) is there is one PCB that has the USB ports, audio jacks, and LED soldered onto it and the wires run from the PCB. Do you have any spare drive bays? If so, you can get a drive bay hub that has one, or more, USB3 ports, like: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820223120 That adds 2 USB3 ports, 4 USB2 ports, an eSATA connection, and a card reader. This one only had an average rating so you might want to hunt around for other choices. If you have no spare SATA ports on the mobo then the eSATA connector in this drive hub would be dead. Same if you don't have any spare USB2 headers on the mobo. Sometimes there are USB2 headers on the mobo that are unused. You could connect those to this drive bay hub along with the USB3 header on the mobo. If your mobo only has USB2 headers then the mobo has no USB3 support which means you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard. Some USB3 cards have an internal USB3 connector you could use to go to the USB drive hub; however, often the internal USB connector is shared with one of the external USB ports on that card. You mention the case but not the motherboard, so no idea what you'll have to do to add USB3 support. No mention of what USB headers are already used on the mobo. If the mobo has it, run an unused USB3 header on the mobo to the USB drive hub. If not, you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard which will already give you USB3 external ports on the backside. If you get one with a USB3 internal port then you can move one of the backside (shared) USB3 ports to the front-facing USB drive hub. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Yes wrote:
I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. Thanks, John Since you want your new USB3 ports on the front, you will need a USB 5.25" tray for the front of the computer, plus the extension cable that leads to a 20 pin header on a USB3 add-in PCI Express card. This is a picture of a USB3 card and chip, where the chip supports four USB3 ports. The bandwidth is shared, so if all ports are used at the same time, the bandwidth on each is 1/4 of 5Gbits/sec. They refuse to make all the ports internal ones, and by buying a four port card, we get two internal ports to use. https://cc.cnetcontent.com/inlinecon...f/original.jpg Now, on the part facing you, are two connectors. The SATA 15p on the left, optionally provides +5V power to the ports. Even though a PCIe card has 3.3V and 12V pins on the edge card, it's still able to deliver a small amount of DC power as +5V to the ports on its own. Adding the SATA 15p increases the total amps available. Most likely, you could only "charge stuff" via this port, while the computer is running. If you plan on running really heavy loads on the ports, connect up a SATA 15p for additional power. The connector on the right, is the internal wiring header. The USB3 defacto standard is a 20 pin header carrying two USB3 ports. The actual USB3 connector has 9 contacts, and the tenth contact could be an extra ground or something. The 20 pin "pin header" has room for two USB3 interfaces. The normal practice in the industry, is to use one pin location as a "key" so the connector cannot be installed wrong. So if one pin is missing or blocked, that's its purpose, to provide keying for alignment. Now, on the front of the computer, we need something like this, only the "tray version". https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Split.../dp/B010NTIGNU That's a female USB3 20 pin internal, to two USB3 nine pin connectors. The cable on that one, is delightfully short. One problem is, the "extra margin" designs. They want to throw a hub chip into the tray, so they can raise the price. So as soon as you see four ports on a tray, there's an extra hub in the path. It uses one of the ports on the 20 pin, and forks that to four connectors. https://www.amazon.com/4-Ports-Metal...dp/B013QSTWIS/ This one is cheap, but still isn't a tray mount. This looks like "good starting materials" for a home-brew tray design. https://www.amazon.com/MMNNE-20-pin-.../dp/B01MXGQZFI I'd probably make a fake tray with a chunk of plywood and a couple computer case sliders, then bolt that crap bracket to the front of it. Note that the bracket in that case, does have two screws. And if you remove the bracket, you'll find an assembly that can be bolted to a sheet metal tray you assemble yourself. For example, I have a metalwork "nibbling tool" I got at RadioShack years ago, which can be used to cut nice clean rectangular holes in bodywork aluminum. So I could make a clean looking tray solution with stuff in the shop. Paul |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On Fri, 08 Jun 2018 18:49:18 -0400, Paul
wrote: Yes wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. Thanks, John Since you want your new USB3 ports on the front, you will need a USB 5.25" tray for the front of the computer, plus the extension cable that leads to a 20 pin header on a USB3 add-in PCI Express card. Or you could get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expan...dp/B01G86538S/ and have the ports at the back. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Peter Johnson wrote:
On Fri, 08 Jun 2018 18:49:18 -0400, Paul wrote: Yes wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. Thanks, John Since you want your new USB3 ports on the front, you will need a USB 5.25" tray for the front of the computer, plus the extension cable that leads to a 20 pin header on a USB3 add-in PCI Express card. Or you could get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expan...dp/B01G86538S/ and have the ports at the back. Quite true. But I read the request as being the addition of USB3 to the front of the computer. For that, you use either the 20 pin pin header standard (carries two USB3), or, if you can find it, some trays use standard USB3 connectors for the extension cable, and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. I added a card just a couple days ago, as you suggest, to my other machine, but I can do that because the machine is on a table, and the front and back connectors on the computer are equally accessible. I don't need a tray solution as a result. Many people have computer setups where only the front top area is accessible, and any back I/O are well under a desk. I always keep my computers on tables (to avoid ingesting stuff at floor level). Paul |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Paul wrote:
But I read the request as being the addition of USB3 to the front of the computer. Me, too. For that, you use either the 20 pin pin header standard (carries two USB3), or, if you can find it, some trays use standard USB3 connectors for the extension cable, and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA1DS0DV6321 (I've not used this brand) Has a 20-pin (only 19 pins needed and provided) for the doubled USB 3 port on the backside (internal) of the card, along with the 2 rear USB3 ports. However, just a PCI-e 1x card. The OP has not yet mentioned if he has any free PCI-e slots. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
VanguardLH wrote:
Paul wrote: But I read the request as being the addition of USB3 to the front of the computer. Me, too. For that, you use either the 20 pin pin header standard (carries two USB3), or, if you can find it, some trays use standard USB3 connectors for the extension cable, and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA1DS0DV6321 (I've not used this brand) Has a 20-pin (only 19 pins needed and provided) for the doubled USB 3 port on the backside (internal) of the card, along with the 2 rear USB3 ports. However, just a PCI-e 1x card. The OP has not yet mentioned if he has any free PCI-e slots. That's a good point. I didn't even ask what kind of motherboard this is. The computer case is 9 years old (some time in 2009), PCI Express Rev.2 came out in the year 2007, so it's possible the motherboard has PCIe. Wiki says Rev.1 came out in the year 2003. If you absolutely had to use a PCI slot for this, chances are you wouldn't be able to get the internal connector for running to a tray. And then you'd need to loop a cable from outside the machine, back inside to the back of the tray. There aren't a lot of bridged cards like that, because the companies designing them, won't sell a lot, and after they make a single lot, they likely stop making them. Paul |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Paul wrote:
VanguardLH wrote: Paul wrote: ... and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA1DS0DV6321 (I've not used this brand) The OP has not yet mentioned if he has any free PCI-e slots. That's a good point. I didn't even ask what kind of motherboard this is. The computer case is 9 years old (some time in 2009), PCI Express Rev.2 came out in the year 2007, so it's possible the motherboard has PCIe. Wiki says Rev.1 came out in the year 2003. If you absolutely had to use a PCI slot for this, chances are you wouldn't be able to get the internal connector for running to a tray. And then you'd need to loop a cable from outside the machine, back inside to the back of the tray. There aren't a lot of bridged cards like that, because the companies designing them, won't sell a lot, and after they make a single lot, they likely stop making them. I could look again but the last time (several months ago) when I got interested in addeding USB3 to an old Acer mobo that only had USB2 and with all its PCI-e slots used up (either the PCI-e 1x slot was obstructed by the fat video card or a card in that slot would obstruct airflow for the GPU's fans), a PCI (non-express) USB3 card ran around $70, or more. Uffda! No thanks. I only remember the high price for a PCI USB3 card, not if any had internal USB3 ports (which wasn't what I was looking for, anyway). |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
VanguardLH wrote:
Paul wrote: VanguardLH wrote: Paul wrote: ... and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA1DS0DV6321 (I've not used this brand) The OP has not yet mentioned if he has any free PCI-e slots. That's a good point. I didn't even ask what kind of motherboard this is. The computer case is 9 years old (some time in 2009), PCI Express Rev.2 came out in the year 2007, so it's possible the motherboard has PCIe. Wiki says Rev.1 came out in the year 2003. If you absolutely had to use a PCI slot for this, chances are you wouldn't be able to get the internal connector for running to a tray. And then you'd need to loop a cable from outside the machine, back inside to the back of the tray. There aren't a lot of bridged cards like that, because the companies designing them, won't sell a lot, and after they make a single lot, they likely stop making them. I could look again but the last time (several months ago) when I got interested in addeding USB3 to an old Acer mobo that only had USB2 and with all its PCI-e slots used up (either the PCI-e 1x slot was obstructed by the fat video card or a card in that slot would obstruct airflow for the GPU's fans), a PCI (non-express) USB3 card ran around $70, or more. Uffda! No thanks. I only remember the high price for a PCI USB3 card, not if any had internal USB3 ports (which wasn't what I was looking for, anyway). The bridged boards used to be about $20 more than the non-bridged boards. But since the company making the bridges got bought out, it's anyones guess as to whether the new owner pricing will encourage usage of stuff like that or not. There is at least one PCIe to USB3 card which is as expensive as your example card. But the claim to fame on that add-in card, is it has two USB3 chips for better bandwidth on two different ports, at the same time. You could then run, say, two USB3 cameras at full rate, one connected to each chip. You can arrange your devices so there is no "sharing". Paul |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
VanguardLH wrote:
Yes wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. The problem is getting the case mounting ports that fit that case. The USB port may not have its own bracket with tangs to snap into a hole in the case. Rather it will be soldered onto a PCB that is positioned behind the case. http://i53.tinypic.com/2ik886t.jpg My guess (since I couldn't find an inside view of that spot inside the case) is there is one PCB that has the USB ports, audio jacks, and LED soldered onto it and the wires run from the PCB. Do you have any spare drive bays? If so, you can get a drive bay hub that has one, or more, USB3 ports, like: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820223120 That adds 2 USB3 ports, 4 USB2 ports, an eSATA connection, and a card reader. This one only had an average rating so you might want to hunt around for other choices. If you have no spare SATA ports on the mobo then the eSATA connector in this drive hub would be dead. Same if you don't have any spare USB2 headers on the mobo. Sometimes there are USB2 headers on the mobo that are unused. You could connect those to this drive bay hub along with the USB3 header on the mobo. If your mobo only has USB2 headers then the mobo has no USB3 support which means you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard. Some USB3 cards have an internal USB3 connector you could use to go to the USB drive hub; however, often the internal USB connector is shared with one of the external USB ports on that card. You mention the case but not the motherboard, so no idea what you'll have to do to add USB3 support. No mention of what USB headers are already used on the mobo. If the mobo has it, run an unused USB3 header on the mobo to the USB drive hub. If not, you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard which will already give you USB3 external ports on the backside. If you get one with a USB3 internal port then you can move one of the backside (shared) USB3 ports to the front-facing USB drive hub. I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. It has two USB 3 ports and an eSATA connector on the back side of the case plus USB and SATA connectors on the mobo. The reason for my question is that 1. it's difficult for me to reach the USB 3 ports on the back of the case, 2. the USB 3 device I have has a short cable (say 6 inches) which makes it awkward to plug in and use given my pc's location and 3. I didn't know what upgrading the chassis' existing USB 2 connectors to USB 3.0 might entail. If the upgrading of a USB 2 port on the front to a USB 3 port were only a matter of getting a new set of wiring suitable for USB 3, then that would be tempting to do. On the other hand, I've seen external hubs that plug into the external USB 3 connector and have an external AC/DC power brick to provide the power for more USB 3 devices. I could accommodate that if need be. At the moment, I'm rather shell shocked and not particularly looking forward to messing around the wiring inside my pc. As many of the regulars here know, I had a severe problem in early May involving my PSU when I tried to add on another HD to my pc. After all was said and done, I lost two of my three hard drives (drive C:\ still works), lost my DVD burner drive, lost the internal fan at the top of the case, replaced the PSU and, after several weeks dealing with two DOA HD drives, received one that works. All in all, I feel a bit down and jinxed at the moment, particularly facing the task to reconstruct several data files. Other replies pointed out some alternatives such as an internal hub fitting into a drive bay. That idea had not crossed my mind. Ditto, the cable suggestion from Paul. My mobo has PCI-e slots on it that are not usable due to the location of the graphics card. When I moved the graphics card from its existing position to the other same type slot on the mobo, I chickened out. The graphics card was immediately above the PSU fan (the PSU is mounted at the bottom of the chassis), and the distance between the card and the PSU fan looked very narrow. I was worried about air circulation and possible overheating of the graphics card. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Paul wrote:
VanguardLH wrote: Paul wrote: But I read the request as being the addition of USB3 to the front of the computer. Me, too. For that, you use either the 20 pin pin header standard (carries two USB3), or, if you can find it, some trays use standard USB3 connectors for the extension cable, and then you need a USB3 card with standard USB3 connectors on the inside of the computer. I didn't see any examples of those when looking, and looping cables through an open slot on the back of the computer is an ugly solution. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA1DS0DV6321 (I've not used this brand) Has a 20-pin (only 19 pins needed and provided) for the doubled USB 3 port on the backside (internal) of the card, along with the 2 rear USB3 ports. However, just a PCI-e 1x card. The OP has not yet mentioned if he has any free PCI-e slots. That's a good point. I didn't even ask what kind of motherboard this is. The computer case is 9 years old (some time in 2009), PCI Express Rev.2 came out in the year 2007, so it's possible the motherboard has PCIe. Wiki says Rev.1 came out in the year 2003. If you absolutely had to use a PCI slot for this, chances are you wouldn't be able to get the internal connector for running to a tray. And then you'd need to loop a cable from outside the machine, back inside to the back of the tray. There aren't a lot of bridged cards like that, because the companies designing them, won't sell a lot, and after they make a single lot, they likely stop making them. Paul I find it difficult plugging and unplugging cords on the rear of the case - cramped quarters and restricted access make any frequent cord changing a hassle. The two USB 3.0 ports are, of course, on the back, and they are the ones I'd want to use with my USB 3.0 external HD drive. The USB 2.0 ports on the front of the case are convenient but don't have the same data transfer speed as USB 3.0. Your response about hubs that fit into the external drive bay of the case is something that I overlooked. I'll give it thought. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 07:18:02 -0000 (UTC), "Yes"
wrote: I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. Damn -- $359... https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M4A89GTD.../dp/B003964KK8 If an older model for Amazon's hm, discretionary merchant-pricing slots. ASUS calling it a Pro/USB3 is a little redundant. I figured when I got a socket three, although Gigabyte and somewhat more dated by present driver standards, is it was probably how things are just done for USB3 convenience: you get USB3 stuck on the back-plane. Least I did, two plus two, for the extra dedicated USB3 ports sandwiched into thereabouts, alongside usual two USB2 ports adjacent the NetWerk RJ45 connection. Wow, you've got 12 USB2 (8-ports MID-board pin arrays), which is kind of totally something. . .I guess. ...Firewire, cool - the "standard" for sound recording gear for some time. Onboard graphics -- I like, the way to go, at least for me. But I only just paid $50 for the Gigabyte AM3 because the floor dropped out on octal cores, a little while ago, due to Ryzen. A low-wattage variant, primo -- octal bulldozer type, AKA .not. a 250-watt monstrosity, for an unheard-of $90 splurge, plus ensuring any driver related issues are grandfathered in. ...Probably goes like a duck into water in typical *nix box configs. Offhand, a Phenom six-cores sounds conceivably older, maybe a year or two, in the ASUS config. I can't believe, though, a build like that would eat two HDD, DVD, and case fan. Outer Limits stuff. Digging into PCs plain ain't done right if it ain't fun. And scared don't count when it's out of bounds;- most rules fall under: if you can pay then that's the ticket to play. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On 10/06/2018 08:18, Yes wrote:
VanguardLH wrote: Yes wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. The problem is getting the case mounting ports that fit that case. The USB port may not have its own bracket with tangs to snap into a hole in the case. Rather it will be soldered onto a PCB that is positioned behind the case. http://i53.tinypic.com/2ik886t.jpg My guess (since I couldn't find an inside view of that spot inside the case) is there is one PCB that has the USB ports, audio jacks, and LED soldered onto it and the wires run from the PCB. Do you have any spare drive bays? If so, you can get a drive bay hub that has one, or more, USB3 ports, like: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820223120 That adds 2 USB3 ports, 4 USB2 ports, an eSATA connection, and a card reader. This one only had an average rating so you might want to hunt around for other choices. If you have no spare SATA ports on the mobo then the eSATA connector in this drive hub would be dead. Same if you don't have any spare USB2 headers on the mobo. Sometimes there are USB2 headers on the mobo that are unused. You could connect those to this drive bay hub along with the USB3 header on the mobo. If your mobo only has USB2 headers then the mobo has no USB3 support which means you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard. Some USB3 cards have an internal USB3 connector you could use to go to the USB drive hub; however, often the internal USB connector is shared with one of the external USB ports on that card. You mention the case but not the motherboard, so no idea what you'll have to do to add USB3 support. No mention of what USB headers are already used on the mobo. If the mobo has it, run an unused USB3 header on the mobo to the USB drive hub. If not, you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard which will already give you USB3 external ports on the backside. If you get one with a USB3 internal port then you can move one of the backside (shared) USB3 ports to the front-facing USB drive hub. I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. It has two USB 3 ports and an eSATA connector on the back side of the case plus USB and SATA connectors on the mobo. The above board does not have an internal USB3 connector, if it had you would have been able to simply plug in the likes of this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-USB-3-...oAAOSwc-tY2QfW A PCIe card could be acquired to implement the missing Internal USB3 connector, example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHIC-Dual...sAAOSwnHda4Zyl However the above being quite a bit of cost, other options are; 1, Buy a USB3 Hub, example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Ports-U...rbls z7jtLFzA 2, Simply buy a USB3 extension cable, eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-Shield-...tQ--tgyT2XAjKA |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Flasherly wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 07:18:02 -0000 (UTC), "Yes" wrote: I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. Damn -- $359... https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M4A89GTD.../dp/B003964KK8 If an older model for Amazon's hm, discretionary merchant-pricing slots. ASUS calling it a Pro/USB3 is a little redundant. I figured when I got a socket three, although Gigabyte and somewhat more dated by present driver standards, is it was probably how things are just done for USB3 convenience: you get USB3 stuck on the back-plane. Least I did, two plus two, for the extra dedicated USB3 ports sandwiched into thereabouts, alongside usual two USB2 ports adjacent the NetWerk RJ45 connection. Wow, you've got 12 USB2 (8-ports MID-board pin arrays), which is kind of totally something. . .I guess. ...Firewire, cool - the "standard" for sound recording gear for some time. Onboard graphics -- I like, the way to go, at least for me. But I only just paid $50 for the Gigabyte AM3 because the floor dropped out on octal cores, a little while ago, due to Ryzen. A low-wattage variant, primo -- octal bulldozer type, AKA .not. a 250-watt monstrosity, for an unheard-of $90 splurge, plus ensuring any driver related issues are grandfathered in. ...Probably goes like a duck into water in typical *nix box configs. Offhand, a Phenom six-cores sounds conceivably older, maybe a year or two, in the ASUS config. I can't believe, though, a build like that would eat two HDD, DVD, and case fan. Outer Limits stuff. Digging into PCs plain ain't done right if it ain't fun. And scared don't count when it's out of bounds;- most rules fall under: if you can pay then that's the ticket to play. I can't say I'm surprised at Amazon's price, but I have a very low opinion of their pricing on a lot of items anyway. I bought my mobo back in 2010 or so. It was a lot less costly then :-) IIRC, ASUS offered two similarly named mobos at the time when I bought it; perhaps one was for the European market and one for the U.S. ??? - shrug. Regardless, my mobo has held up well over the years and still does what I want it to do. Where it shows its age is wrt new tech. Data transfer speed is something I like, so it'd be nice to have USB 3.1 capability. And I seem to recall reading something about similar progress for SATA transfer speeds. My mobo of course handles USB 3.0, not the newer USB 3.1. In retrospect, the mobo is probably not a good match with the case because the PSU is located on the bottom. The mobo has two slots for a graphics card. I tried the suggestion to move the graphics card to the other slot in order to make the PCI-e slots accessible. Doing so freed up access to the PCI-e slots but created what seems to me a different problem - the graphics card was immediately above the fan of the PSU. There was a narrow gap between the card and the PSU. I was worried that the flow of the air from the PSU would overheat the graphics card - the PSU fan and the graphics card's fan faced other directly - so I placed the card back to where I had it to begin with. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Patrick wrote:
On 10/06/2018 08:18, Yes wrote: VanguardLH wrote: Yes wrote: I have an Antec 300 Illusion case. There are two USB 2.0 connector ports on the front. I'm thinking that I may want to upgrade them to USB 3.0. Has anyone upgraded USB 2 ports on a chassis to USB 3? I'd like to get some idea of what would need to be done. I could, of course, add a USB 3.0 hub instead, but it'd be nice to keep down the amount of clutter on my desk. The problem is getting the case mounting ports that fit that case. The USB port may not have its own bracket with tangs to snap into a hole in the case. Rather it will be soldered onto a PCB that is positioned behind the case. http://i53.tinypic.com/2ik886t.jpg My guess (since I couldn't find an inside view of that spot inside the case) is there is one PCB that has the USB ports, audio jacks, and LED soldered onto it and the wires run from the PCB. Do you have any spare drive bays? If so, you can get a drive bay hub that has one, or more, USB3 ports, like: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820223120 That adds 2 USB3 ports, 4 USB2 ports, an eSATA connection, and a card reader. This one only had an average rating so you might want to hunt around for other choices. If you have no spare SATA ports on the mobo then the eSATA connector in this drive hub would be dead. Same if you don't have any spare USB2 headers on the mobo. Sometimes there are USB2 headers on the mobo that are unused. You could connect those to this drive bay hub along with the USB3 header on the mobo. If your mobo only has USB2 headers then the mobo has no USB3 support which means you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard. Some USB3 cards have an internal USB3 connector you could use to go to the USB drive hub; however, often the internal USB connector is shared with one of the external USB ports on that card. You mention the case but not the motherboard, so no idea what you'll have to do to add USB3 support. No mention of what USB headers are already used on the mobo. If the mobo has it, run an unused USB3 header on the mobo to the USB drive hub. If not, you'll have to add a USB3 daughtercard which will already give you USB3 external ports on the backside. If you get one with a USB3 internal port then you can move one of the backside (shared) USB3 ports to the front-facing USB drive hub. I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. It has two USB 3 ports and an eSATA connector on the back side of the case plus USB and SATA connectors on the mobo. The above board does not have an internal USB3 connector, if it had you would have been able to simply plug in the likes of this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-USB-3-...oAAOSwc-tY2QfW A PCIe card could be acquired to implement the missing Internal USB3 connector, example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHIC-Dual...sAAOSwnHda4Zyl However the above being quite a bit of cost, other options are; 1, Buy a USB3 Hub, example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Ports-U...rbls z7jtLFzA 2, Simply buy a USB3 extension cable, eg; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G-Shield-...tQ--tgyT2XAjKA Yes, option 1 is what I was talking about in my OP. Option 2 is one I had forgotten about. I'm already using a USB 2.0 extender on my other computer. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Yes, er, John wrote:
I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. It has two USB 3 ports and an eSATA connector on the back side of the case plus USB and SATA connectors on the mobo. The reason for my question is that 1. it's difficult for me to reach the USB 3 ports on the back of the case, 2. the USB 3 device I have has a short cable (say 6 inches) which makes it awkward to plug in and use given my pc's location and 3. I didn't know what upgrading the chassis' existing USB 2 connectors to USB 3.0 might entail. If the upgrading of a USB 2 port on the front to a USB 3 port were only a matter of getting a new set of wiring suitable for USB 3, then that would be tempting to do. On the other hand, I've seen external hubs that plug into the external USB 3 connector and have an external AC/DC power brick to provide the power for more USB 3 devices. I could accommodate that if need be. At the moment, I'm rather shell shocked and not particularly looking forward to messing around the wiring inside my pc. As many of the regulars here know, I had a severe problem in early May involving my PSU when I tried to add on another HD to my pc. After all was said and done, I lost two of my three hard drives (drive C:\ still works), lost my DVD burner drive, lost the internal fan at the top of the case, replaced the PSU and, after several weeks dealing with two DOA HD drives, received one that works. All in all, I feel a bit down and jinxed at the moment, particularly facing the task to reconstruct several data files. Other replies pointed out some alternatives such as an internal hub fitting into a drive bay. That idea had not crossed my mind. Ditto, the cable suggestion from Paul. My mobo has PCI-e slots on it that are not usable due to the location of the graphics card. When I moved the graphics card from its existing position to the other same type slot on the mobo, I chickened out. The graphics card was immediately above the PSU fan (the PSU is mounted at the bottom of the chassis), and the distance between the card and the PSU fan looked very narrow. I was worried about air circulation and possible overheating of the graphics card. A USB3 hub connected to the backpanel USB3 port would be easiest; however, all devices connected to that hub will share its bandwidth. If only one device is active on the hub at a time then it gets full bandwidth; else, multiple devices will contend for use of the one USB port to which the hub is connected. There are passive USB hubs (no external power) but those are only for USB2 devices and then only for low-power USB2 devices (or 1 high-power USB2 device - but then you don't need the hub for 1 device). Powered USB hubs don't rely on the +5V power from the USB port on the PC to share amongst multiple devices. With USB3 you definitely need a powered USB3 hub, and make sure the output amperage will support ALL of the ports on the hub. Multiple the number of ports on the USB3 hub by 0.9A, and the power adapter should output that, or more. If the hub has 4 USB3 ports then the power adapter should output 3.6A minimum. Of course, with a powered hub, you have the hub sitting somewhere outside the PC's case along with a USB3 cable and power cord from the hub to add to a speghetti mess of cables and boxes strewn from the PC case. https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M4...pecifications/ The only USB3 connections are the backpanel ports. No mobo headers for USB3 connections. To have more internal USB3 connections, you need to add a USB3 daughtercard, and preferrably one with an internal USB3 port (to go to a drive bay USB hub). The other choice (than an external powered USB3 hub) is to get a USB3 daughtercard to plug into a PCI-e slot (*if* you have an unused one or willing to sacrifice some other card to usurp its slot) that has an internal USB3 connector. In an empty drive bay, you install a USB hub (which will often include a card reader). The wiring to the card is for power (a 4-pin Molex connector where likely you need a Y-adapter unless you have a free Molex connector from the PSU) and the USB3 cable from the card's internal connector to the back of the drive bay USB hub. For this setup, you need: 1 unused PCI-e card slot in the mobo (that is not obstructed by, say, a video card or the card would obstruct airflow into a video card for its fans), 1 unused drive bay, a USB3 cable from card to drive hub (some hubs come with the cable), and possibly a Molex Y-adapter cable. This would give you 2, or more, backpanel USB3 ports along with 2 frontside USB3 ports. You would have to determine if the drive bay USB hub would be within reach of the shorty cable from your USB3 device; however, it's not likely a permanent cable, so you could use a longer USB3 cable from the device to a backpanel USB3 port. Since the mobo has an eSATA port, maybe you could use that. If the external USB-attached drive is a pre-built, you're stuck with the ports (interfaces) that the vendor gave you for that model. If you built the external drive yourself (got a drive, put it into a case), you could get a drive case that has both USB3 and eSATA ports. Then you could attach the external drive to the eSATA port on the backpanel. Of all the solutions, easiest is using a powered USB3 hub; however, all active devices on that hub will contend for sharing the bandwidth. Whether sharing bandwidth is an issue depends on when you use the devices attached to the USB hub. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 16:07:56 -0000 (UTC), "Yes"
wrote: I can't say I'm surprised at Amazon's price, but I have a very low opinion of their pricing on a lot of items anyway. I bought my mobo back in 2010 or so. It was a lot less costly then :-) IIRC, ASUS offered two similarly named mobos at the time when I bought it; perhaps one was for the European market and one for the U.S. ??? - shrug. Regardless, my mobo has held up well over the years and still does what I want it to do. Where it shows its age is wrt new tech. Data transfer speed is something I like, so it'd be nice to have USB 3.1 capability. And I seem to recall reading something about similar progress for SATA transfer speeds. My mobo of course handles USB 3.0, not the newer USB 3.1. In retrospect, the mobo is probably not a good match with the case because the PSU is located on the bottom. The mobo has two slots for a graphics card. I tried the suggestion to move the graphics card to the other slot in order to make the PCI-e slots accessible. Doing so freed up access to the PCI-e slots but created what seems to me a different problem - the graphics card was immediately above the fan of the PSU. There was a narrow gap between the card and the PSU. I was worried that the flow of the air from the PSU would overheat the graphics card - the PSU fan and the graphics card's fan faced other directly - so I placed the card back to where I had it to begin with. An older Asus than I'd first suspected. A bit. Mine, the Gigabyte, I'd as well suspect for design concepts dated closer to yours than not. (AMD's generation past on Bulldozer technology.) Perhaps a little more popular for a budget-builder's board, though, or less apt to pop in the Amazon's mystery-bin pricing rackets.... Gigabyte 78LMT (rev6.0) FX-8300 Octal (Hm, seems I can also run your processor.) Order Date: 5/26/2017 GIGABYTE GA-78LMT-USB3 (rev. 6.0) AM3+ AMD 760G + SB710 USB 3.0 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard 59.99 Wrong again...$178, as the board is probably originally worth half yours in the first place. ...If to linearly extrapolate on a factor of three, then makes your paid price roundabout (359/3=)$119. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GA-7.../dp/B008TZZ4WC Amazon's just fine, more than fine, by the way. They're just another swinging player, swinging along where everyone has to follow the same simple rules as do you: To get over on them before they're on top of you and stay out of jail to continue to play. The game is named of course to date back to its obscure originality, called Caveat Emptor. I haven't bothered yet to install the USB3 point-zero drivers for mine, although I do exclusive use onboard video because I like it extra simple. Game play is far to proprietorially challenging for my league. I probably started to give on all that heat somewhere back with a 12-bay case, 4 DVD writers, and a slew of custom-wired, dinky-butted case fans, possibly ten, each I'd ingeniously thought out for placement, for that peculiar epoch in computing. As a result, I now put on one grapefruit-sized monster CPU cooler on all CPUs, regardless, for cheap $20 on-sale insurance, turn around, and just leave one case side, (the side opposite where the MB is mounted), off and removed. If laying the case on its side, on a table, letting heat arise up and out, so much the better;- I've both vertical- and horizontal-standing instances of removed case sides;- with one last residual case fan, a modern big-butted, and quiet, case fan dedicated to the HDD plane. And that's about all there is to not being bothered to button back up a case for all those scary-looking wires stuffed wherever is most convenient for stuff that gets jammed inside and out of sight. Easy-&-peasy, as you please, for doing less hard maintenance time. |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Yes wrote:
Flasherly wrote: On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 07:18:02 -0000 (UTC), "Yes" wrote: I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. Damn -- $359... https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M4A89GTD.../dp/B003964KK8 If an older model for Amazon's hm, discretionary merchant-pricing slots. ASUS calling it a Pro/USB3 is a little redundant. I figured when I got a socket three, although Gigabyte and somewhat more dated by present driver standards, is it was probably how things are just done for USB3 convenience: you get USB3 stuck on the back-plane. Least I did, two plus two, for the extra dedicated USB3 ports sandwiched into thereabouts, alongside usual two USB2 ports adjacent the NetWerk RJ45 connection. Wow, you've got 12 USB2 (8-ports MID-board pin arrays), which is kind of totally something. . .I guess. ...Firewire, cool - the "standard" for sound recording gear for some time. Onboard graphics -- I like, the way to go, at least for me. But I only just paid $50 for the Gigabyte AM3 because the floor dropped out on octal cores, a little while ago, due to Ryzen. A low-wattage variant, primo -- octal bulldozer type, AKA .not. a 250-watt monstrosity, for an unheard-of $90 splurge, plus ensuring any driver related issues are grandfathered in. ...Probably goes like a duck into water in typical *nix box configs. Offhand, a Phenom six-cores sounds conceivably older, maybe a year or two, in the ASUS config. I can't believe, though, a build like that would eat two HDD, DVD, and case fan. Outer Limits stuff. Digging into PCs plain ain't done right if it ain't fun. And scared don't count when it's out of bounds;- most rules fall under: if you can pay then that's the ticket to play. I can't say I'm surprised at Amazon's price, but I have a very low opinion of their pricing on a lot of items anyway. I bought my mobo back in 2010 or so. It was a lot less costly then :-) IIRC, ASUS offered two similarly named mobos at the time when I bought it; perhaps one was for the European market and one for the U.S. ??? - shrug. Regardless, my mobo has held up well over the years and still does what I want it to do. Where it shows its age is wrt new tech. Data transfer speed is something I like, so it'd be nice to have USB 3.1 capability. And I seem to recall reading something about similar progress for SATA transfer speeds. My mobo of course handles USB 3.0, not the newer USB 3.1. In retrospect, the mobo is probably not a good match with the case because the PSU is located on the bottom. The mobo has two slots for a graphics card. I tried the suggestion to move the graphics card to the other slot in order to make the PCI-e slots accessible. Doing so freed up access to the PCI-e slots but created what seems to me a different problem - the graphics card was immediately above the fan of the PSU. There was a narrow gap between the card and the PSU. I was worried that the flow of the air from the PSU would overheat the graphics card - the PSU fan and the graphics card's fan faced other directly - so I placed the card back to where I had it to begin with. John Isn't the PSU fan "pulling" in the "exhaust" direction ? The warm cloud around the video, should be moving through the PSU. (Just as normally, a PSU would pull the warm cloud from the CPU, through the PSU cabinet.) And your motherboard has nice slots, as they're all Rev.2 type. https://s15.postimg.cc/8ueqc9mez/rev2_lanes.gif Older USB3 chips, have only a single lane (x1). The newer USB3.1 chips have x2 wiring and an x4 edge connector. So far, I haven't been "blown away" by the improvement. I don't have good enough test devices for that. Paul |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Flasherly wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 16:07:56 -0000 (UTC), "Yes" wrote: I can't say I'm surprised at Amazon's price, but I have a very low opinion of their pricing on a lot of items anyway. - snipped -- -- edited Flasherly reply Amazon's just fine, more than fine, by the way. They're just another swinging player, swinging along where everyone has to follow the same simple rules as do you: To get over on them before they're on top of you and stay out of jail to continue to play. The game is named of course to date back to its obscure originality, called Caveat Emptor. -- edited Flasherly reply OFF TOPIC Amazon Buying stuff through Amazon definitely is a Caveat Emptor. Sometimes prices are good, sometimes ridiculously overpriced. I check it out for non-computer goods, mainly grocer store type canned and dry goods. I have a sweet tooth and the pricing for those type of goods may be up to 2.5 times higher than what I would pay for at the grocer in person. Recently I bought a Honeywell floor fan. Amazon's prices were $22+. The price for the same model at Target and Walmart was $12. I'm debating with myself whether to subscribe to Amazon Prime for their digital content. So, I will buy stuff at Amazon, but only after making sure that I don't find cheaper prices for the merchandise at another vendor. My apologies about the rant. I can see Amazon's appeal, especially shipping, but I no longer automatically think of Amazon as offering the best prices for goods. As you point out, caveat emptor. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
Paul wrote:
Yes wrote: Flasherly wrote: On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 07:18:02 -0000 (UTC), "Yes" wrote: I have an ASUS M4A89GTD PRO USB3 mobo. Damn -- $359... https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M4A89GTD.../dp/B003964KK8 If an older model for Amazon's hm, discretionary merchant-pricing slots. ASUS calling it a Pro/USB3 is a little redundant. I figured when I got a socket three, although Gigabyte and somewhat more dated by present driver standards, is it was probably how things are just done for USB3 convenience: you get USB3 stuck on the back-plane. Least I did, two plus two, for the extra dedicated USB3 ports sandwiched into thereabouts, alongside usual two USB2 ports adjacent the NetWerk RJ45 connection. Wow, you've got 12 USB2 (8-ports MID-board pin arrays), which is kind of totally something. . .I guess. ...Firewire, cool - the "standard" for sound recording gear for some time. Onboard graphics -- I like, the way to go, at least for me. But I only just paid $50 for the Gigabyte AM3 because the floor dropped out on octal cores, a little while ago, due to Ryzen. A low-wattage variant, primo -- octal bulldozer type, AKA .not. a 250-watt monstrosity, for an unheard-of $90 splurge, plus ensuring any driver related issues are grandfathered in. ...Probably goes like a duck into water in typical *nix box configs. Offhand, a Phenom six-cores sounds conceivably older, maybe a year or two, in the ASUS config. I can't believe, though, a build like that would eat two HDD, DVD, and case fan. Outer Limits stuff. Digging into PCs plain ain't done right if it ain't fun. And scared don't count when it's out of bounds;- most rules fall under: if you can pay then that's the ticket to play. I can't say I'm surprised at Amazon's price, but I have a very low opinion of their pricing on a lot of items anyway. I bought my mobo back in 2010 or so. It was a lot less costly then :-) IIRC, ASUS offered two similarly named mobos at the time when I bought it; perhaps one was for the European market and one for the U.S. ??? - shrug. Regardless, my mobo has held up well over the years and still does what I want it to do. Where it shows its age is wrt new tech. Data transfer speed is something I like, so it'd be nice to have USB 3.1 capability. And I seem to recall reading something about similar progress for SATA transfer speeds. My mobo of course handles USB 3.0, not the newer USB 3.1. In retrospect, the mobo is probably not a good match with the case because the PSU is located on the bottom. The mobo has two slots for a graphics card. I tried the suggestion to move the graphics card to the other slot in order to make the PCI-e slots accessible. Doing so freed up access to the PCI-e slots but created what seems to me a different problem - the graphics card was immediately above the fan of the PSU. There was a narrow gap between the card and the PSU. I was worried that the flow of the air from the PSU would overheat the graphics card - the PSU fan and the graphics card's fan faced other directly - so I placed the card back to where I had it to begin with. John Isn't the PSU fan "pulling" in the "exhaust" direction ? The warm cloud around the video, should be moving through the PSU. (Just as normally, a PSU would pull the warm cloud from the CPU, through the PSU cabinet.) And your motherboard has nice slots, as they're all Rev.2 type. https://s15.postimg.cc/8ueqc9mez/rev2_lanes.gif Older USB3 chips, have only a single lane (x1). The newer USB3.1 chips have x2 wiring and an x4 edge connector. So far, I haven't been "blown away" by the improvement. I don't have good enough test devices for that. Paul You're right. The air flow from the graphics card pushes down towards the bottom of the case. That of the PSU fan seems to be sucking air downwards and pushing it out the back of the case. I interpreted the PSU description I read to mean that the PSU sucked the air in from the rear and directed it up into the case in order to blow air over the CPU and the fan at the top of the case would vent the hot air out the top. John |
Upgrading USB 2 to USB 3 ports on a computer case
On Mon, 11 Jun 2018 07:04:15 -0000 (UTC), "Yes"
wrote: Buying stuff through Amazon definitely is a Caveat Emptor. Sometimes prices are good, sometimes ridiculously overpriced. I check it out for non-computer goods, mainly grocer store type canned and dry goods. I have a sweet tooth and the pricing for those type of goods may be up to 2.5 times higher than what I would pay for at the grocer in person. Recently I bought a Honeywell floor fan. Amazon's prices were $22+. The price for the same model at Target and Walmart was $12. I'm debating with myself whether to subscribe to Amazon Prime for their digital content. So, I will buy stuff at Amazon, but only after making sure that I don't find cheaper prices for the merchandise at another vendor. My apologies about the rant. I can see Amazon's appeal, especially shipping, but I no longer automatically think of Amazon as offering the best prices for goods. As you point out, caveat emptor. No apologies for me. I can't see it anymore. Too many times up and around making mountains from molehills in investing. They're all so many tools to a modern world of mercantilism. A whole WEB of them. Integrals, such as Amazon, among several if not too few whereby to drill for the very best possible, from a widest array of solutions presented, at the very least possible inconvenience to your wallet. A true capitalist is an élitist -- one who _knows_ better (than anyone else);- he's apt to be found in search of another, a lesser being willing to play _his_ game: All it takes to tango is a willingness to meet him and put up the money behind where your big mouth is. Count me out. Although I _do_ irrevocably know that I can do again, what I do not know is why, particularly, I should invest for the sake of continued investment;- Ergo sum: to not longer be the player, I must then be a spec, a mote, beneath even a mere fly on a wall. ;-0 |
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