Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a
jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
Take it out and clean it fully. If that doesn't work, then replace it
with a brand new fan. lid wrote: The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. -- Quote of the Week: "I got worms! That's what we're going to call it. We're going to specialize in selling worm farms. You know like ant farms. What's the matter, a little tense about the flight?" --Lloyd Christmas (Dumb and Dumber movie) Note: A fixed width font (Courier, Monospace, etc.) is required to see this signature correctly. /\___/\Ant(Dude) @ http://antfarm.home.dhs.org / http://antfarm.ma.cx / /\ /\ \ Please nuke ANT if replying by e-mail privately. If credit- | |o o| | ing, then please kindly use Ant nickname and URL/link. \ _ / ( ) |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
no wrote:
The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. Is the PSU out of warranty? My guess is Yes as the fan is making noise which happens after the warranty expires. Hopefully the fan goes bad a long time after the warranty but that depends on the quality of the fan which depends on the qualify of the PSU. Expect crappy fans in cheap PSUs. You definitely get what you pay for (if you buy the PSU to build your own) and pre-builts often come with crappy PSUs (whatever is minimal to handle the spec load of a model and for a MTBF that is just longer than the warranty). Measure the diameter of the fan. Buy a new one. After the new fan arrives, remove the PSU and open it up. Spin the blade hub by hand. Does rotate several times or does it stop in under 1 or 2 rotations? Does it feel free as you rotate the blades by hand or can you feel resistance (wear)? If the fan rotates freely, use an ear swab with isopropyl alcohol to clean the fan blades on both sides. Check if the fan is now quiet since filth on the blades (that you cannot blast off with a compressed air can) can throw it out of balance and cause noise; however, if it has been going on for a long time, the bearing has gotten worn with an out-of-balance fan. Oiling the bearing with silicone spray (WD-40 was the worst you could use) might make it quieter until the lubricant oozed out of the bearing to let it start wobbling again. If it was a cheap PSU, it could have a sleeve bearing fan which means the lube will ooze out. Sleeve fans are only good for vertical use. Since you'll have to open the PSU to get at the fan to properly lube it (spraying lube at the fan will NOT lubricate the bearing but instead change its balance) or clean it or both, you're already right there inside and might as well as replace the fan. That's why I first mentioned getting a new fan. Do NOT get a sleeve type fan as those are designed for vertical operation, not horizontal as in a PSU. Get a ball-bearing type fan. Those will last about 6-8 years. Fluid/hydro fans are good, are more costly, and last 10 years, or longer. Consider how much longer you will have the computer. Remember the cheaper you go on a fan then the more likely it will fail sooner. Noctua are pricey but that's what I end up putting in my builds and when I have to replace a PSU fan (video card fans are often very specialized, especially if shrouded, so you're stuck getting a duplicate for replacement). You may not find a replacement fan that has the same connector to mate with the header on the PCB inside the PSU. Likely it is just a 2-wire fan unless it can be speed controlled (which is a 3-wire fan). Likely you will need to remove the old fan by snipping its wires near the fan to reuse with heat shrink tubing and solder to splice on the new fan. Make sure the now longer wiring doesn't get into the new fan's blades. If you don't know how to use a heat gun with heatshrink tubing and do soldering, get a new PSU. |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
On 07/09/2018 3:57 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
no wrote: The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. Is the PSU out of warranty? My guess is Yes as the fan is making noise which happens after the warranty expires. Hopefully the fan goes bad a long time after the warranty but that depends on the quality of the fan which depends on the qualify of the PSU. Expect crappy fans in cheap PSUs. You definitely get what you pay for (if you buy the PSU to build your own) and pre-builts often come with crappy PSUs (whatever is minimal to handle the spec load of a model and for a MTBF that is just longer than the warranty). Measure the diameter of the fan. Buy a new one. After the new fan arrives, remove the PSU and open it up. Spin the blade hub by hand. Does rotate several times or does it stop in under 1 or 2 rotations? Does it feel free as you rotate the blades by hand or can you feel resistance (wear)? If the fan rotates freely, use an ear swab with isopropyl alcohol to clean the fan blades on both sides. Check if the fan is now quiet since filth on the blades (that you cannot blast off with a compressed air can) can throw it out of balance and cause noise; however, if it has been going on for a long time, the bearing has gotten worn with an out-of-balance fan. Oiling the bearing with silicone spray (WD-40 was the worst you could use) might make it quieter until the lubricant oozed out of the bearing to let it start wobbling again. If it was a cheap PSU, it could have a sleeve bearing fan which means the lube will ooze out. Sleeve fans are only good for vertical use. Since you'll have to open the PSU to get at the fan to properly lube it (spraying lube at the fan will NOT lubricate the bearing but instead change its balance) or clean it or both, you're already right there inside and might as well as replace the fan. That's why I first mentioned getting a new fan. Do NOT get a sleeve type fan as those are designed for vertical operation, not horizontal as in a PSU. Get a ball-bearing type fan. Those will last about 6-8 years. Fluid/hydro fans are good, are more costly, and last 10 years, or longer. Consider how much longer you will have the computer. Remember the cheaper you go on a fan then the more likely it will fail sooner. Noctua are pricey but that's what I end up putting in my builds and when I have to replace a PSU fan (video card fans are often very specialized, especially if shrouded, so you're stuck getting a duplicate for replacement). You may not find a replacement fan that has the same connector to mate with the header on the PCB inside the PSU. Likely it is just a 2-wire fan unless it can be speed controlled (which is a 3-wire fan). Likely you will need to remove the old fan by snipping its wires near the fan to reuse with heat shrink tubing and solder to splice on the new fan. Make sure the now longer wiring doesn't get into the new fan's blades. If you don't know how to use a heat gun with heatshrink tubing and do soldering, get a new PSU. WARNING !!!!!! IF you open up the PSU be warned that the large Caps can store a very dangerous Voltage. If your not familiar with This stuff, leave it alone and buy a new PSU. Rene |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
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Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
mike wrote:
On 7/9/2018 9:41 AM, lid wrote: The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. Don't use WD40. I use thick gun oil "hoppes" I think. I put it in an insulin syringe with a tiny needle so it goes where I want. Problem with a fan is that you can only get at one end of the bearing. I've actually drilled a tiny hole in the blade hub at the shaft so I could inject oil into the other end, but that's another story. Typically, there's access to the shaft/bearing under the sticker on the back side of the fan. With the insulin syringe, I can poke a hole in the label and inject oil. Depending on the mounting system, you may be able to see the label thru the grille on the back end of the PS. If not, I drill a hole in the metal to allow access. You're gonna need to inject oil periodically, so might as well make it as easy as possible. Are we having fun yet? There are several bearing types. Sealed for Panaflo (fluid dynamic). Sleeve bearing (the ones we oil, and oil, and oil...) Ball bearing fans (3dB louder than a sleeve bearing) It's possible the Noctua ones are fluid dynamic. There are also a few fans with ceramic bearings, with longer lifetimes. And a couple attempts at magnetic levitation. Paul |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
|
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
Paul wrote:
lid wrote: The fan is making noise. I can stop it with a pencil. I sprayed a jet of wd 40. It is a little more quiet. I think if I could get it spinning faster and give it one more burst, it might hit the spot. Ah, it's the power supply fan. I missed that bit. The last power supply I opened up, the fan was connectorized. But they don't have to be that way. It's probably $0.02 cheaper to solder the fan wires right to the PCB. The fan speed is a function of temperature on some of them. You would need to replace the header inside the PSU as a power source, with something else. I'd rather open the supply up. *Don't* touch anything. Identify whether the harness leading from the fan, is on a removable connector or not (like a desktop computer fan connector). Then, look for a replacement for the thing. The little LP3 style fan connector, has a locking feature that makes it hard to release. You have to lean the connector body a bit, to get it past the tab when removing it. In the example here, the tiny circuit board it plugs into, is probably the fan speed control. https://techreport.com/blog/14236/th...n-swap-of-2008 Paul |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
Rene Lamontagne was thinking very hard :
WARNING !!!!!! IF you open up the PSU be warned that the large Caps can store a very dangerous Voltage. If your not familiar with This stuff, leave it alone and buy a new PSU. Rene Indeed. As the o/p has already managed to squirt the wrong oil into it. I'm surprised so many others here advocated opening the thing up. And if he waas familiar with this stuff, I doubt he would have uses WD40 in the first place. |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
Steve Hough wrote:
Rene Lamontagne was thinking very hard : WARNING !!!!!! IF you open up the PSU be warned that the large Caps can store a very dangerous Voltage. If your not familiar with This stuff, leave it alone and buy a new PSU. Rene Indeed. As the o/p has already managed to squirt the wrong oil into it. I'm surprised so many others here advocated opening the thing up. And if he waas familiar with this stuff, I doubt he would have uses WD40 in the first place. If the fan is soldered to the PCB, I would not attempt to replace the fan. If the fan uses a connector, you may be able to unplug the connector. The most dangerous part, is trying to use tools to torque the connector to get it loose. If a tool slips off, it could hit a high voltage item. In any case, this is one reason the fan connector is on the periphery of the PCB and not in the middle of it. You don't have to get "up close and personal" with the main cap, to change out a fan. ******* There is as much danger in making the main caps "safe", as there is in working around the main caps. To see which caps are dangerous, there is a sample schematic here. Modern PSUs don't use the same architecture (they do double forward conversion), but in terms of safety issues, this is a good primer. http://www.pavouk.org/hw/en_atxps.html Capacitor C5 and C6 are larger devices (tin cans), which are charged to 300VDC or higher. If you work out 1/2*C*V^2 , the number of joules involved is similar to that of a microwave oven cap. *Do not* stick a screwdriver across the two wire ends of a C5 or C6 cap, as the noise is loud enough you could lose an eardrum. 1/2 * 0.000470 * 300 * 300 = 21 Joules Resistor R2 and R3 are bleeder resistors. They're in the circuit, to drain C5 and C6 after about an 8 minute delay. That's a safety feature. If we didn't need safety, R2 and R3 would not even be in the circuit. They only have one reason for being there. (I count waiting five time constants as being long enough.) But technicians working on a circuit like this, assume R2 and R3 are defective and have gone open circuit. And they further assume C5 and C6 are fully charged (it's a bit like defusing a bomb). If a technician wanted to solder something on the bottom of the PCB of the power supply, they would use an *external* bleeder resistor to quietly (and slowly) discharge C5 and C6. There is always the danger of getting a shock, while making the caps safe! (If you make a bleeder, you make yourself some Plexiglas handles to position it, and so on.) If I see that the fan connector is "off to the side" and I can work on the low voltage fan connector without getting near C5 and C6, I'll do that. If the fan is soldered to the PCB, I would probably decline to work on the project and just buy a new PSU. I only got one decent shock in all my time doing electronics. I got my "teaching" shock as a kid, working with an ignition coil. One minute I was at the workbench, the next minute I was getting myself off the floor, and I apparently had jumped backwards and hit the floor when the shock got me. I'd laid something on top of some wires, and didn't see a HV wire underneath something else, and that's how my little experiment "got me" :-( I've worked on high voltage since then, with no other incidents to report. For example, I have a flyback circuit with a tripler on the output, for HV work, and that circuit has never managed to get me. It would likely burn as much as shock. But the reason I've not had a shock since, is the first lesson was *the best* :-) You couldn't ask for a better lesson. I presume I passed out for a moment, but I'm not really sure. Because I don't know exactly how I hit the floor. Some of my other experiments as a kid, did more damage. That one wasn't the worst. A good lesson is one you learn without bleeding or a concussion. Paul |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
Paul has brought this to us :
Steve Hough wrote: Rene Lamontagne was thinking very hard : WARNING !!!!!! IF you open up the PSU be warned that the large Caps can store a very dangerous Voltage. If your not familiar with This stuff, leave it alone and buy a new PSU. Rene Indeed. As the o/p has already managed to squirt the wrong oil into it. I'm surprised so many others here advocated opening the thing up. And if he waas familiar with this stuff, I doubt he would have uses WD40 in the first place. If the fan is soldered to the PCB, I would not attempt to replace the fan. While you are patently very knowledgeable on electronics, is it not possible sometimes to answer people with just one sentence. When it comes to the o/p, I would just presume that someone who just squirts the wrong oil in and hopes, is too stupid to be openeing up a PSU. |
Can I make my power supply fan turn faster?
On Tue, 10 Jul 2018 12:26:56 +0100, Steve Hough
wrote: o/p, I would just presume that someone who just squirts the wrong oil in and hopes, is too stupid to be openeing up a PSU. No one taught me how to work on Killer Amps - 500V on vacuum tube plates and some relatively huge capacitors. Or fabricate from a 600 amp 220V welder. Enough to where I can fix the more obvious mechanical issues, taking a plastic prod to a live amp to find cold solder joints. Rebias fresh tubes, or amazing things like keep patched vehicles running out of junkyard parts. Yes, and even steal fans from an otherwise dead PSU. At one point I'd even have made the classical disconnection with electrical contacts and WD40. There's just one thing better than stupid and that's scared: Not being mindful of not being the foremost expert when approaching hazardous work is stupid. But that applies to anything with a will. I watched a guy next door climb to trim a tree, bright and early one morning, singing like a bird at the top of his voice. He got up there, touched a nearby power wire and fell on the chain-link fence below. He obviously didn't have a will to stay put. So they carted him off in a helicopter that landed in the adjacent intersection. A grain of salt may not help while driving and losing brake lines, the steering box dis-coupling at the steering column. Nor will a slew of uselessly stinky reviewers scratching their collective asses on YouTube instructional videos. But I still watch, if I need the help over leaving it. A "professional FWIW" viewpoint. It's where leaving it -- on the second time up -- is a given that there's definitely some aptitude that wasn't before. - Appraisals: $75 an hour. Correct Appraisals: $150 an hour. Stupid Looks: Still free if you act now. |
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